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Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The by William Griffith

W >> William Griffith >> Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The




At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, _baccis_ cyaneis occurs here
the same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya.

_Nov_. _30th_.--Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam's hands,
amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a long
sword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming into
flower, Calyce aestiv. valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheras
longe producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyenia
coccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Baehmeria?) foliis
subtus candidis is common.

_Dec_. _1st_.--Reached the Tapan Gam's after a sharp march of four hours.
We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered _en route_ 4
new Acanthaceae, not previously met with on this trip, among which is a
beautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fine
Aristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom's, but at once
distinct by its ferruginous pubescence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium not
before met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behaved
very handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given five
kuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes,
which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus,
margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba,
postice lutescens.

Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens of
Pentaptera, the Hool-look of the Assamese, the timber of which is used
for large canoes; and Lagerstraemia grandiflora occurs on the banks of
the Kussin Panee.



CHAPTER III.


_Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack_
_Districts_, _Upper Assam_.

_Dec_. _2nd_.--Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and Karam
Panee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banks
of the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and an
arborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellis
densissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. The
caudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equally
furnished with strong black bristly radicles towards its base.

_Dec_. _3rd_.--Left for Husa Gam's about 9, and arrived at the village
which is on the Kampai of the Singfos, Tup-pai of the Mishmees about 4.5
P.M. The first part of our march was to the E. up the Karam, we then
traversed for a long way heavy jungle in a S. direction, and then came on
the dry bed of the Kampai, up which we ascended to the village. Found a
Ruellioidea, _Cyananthus_, _mihi_. _Oom_ of the Assamese, with which the
Kamptees dye their black blue cloths. Noticed an arborescent Araliacea
inermis, foliis supra decomposita; panicule patentissima. The Husa Gam
treated us very handsomely forming a striking contrast with the Mishmees;
he declares positively that no tea exists in this direction; I shall
therefore proceed direct from Luttora to Beesa. Roxburghia occurred on
the route. The village is on the left bank of the river: the direction
from Jingsha's being about N.W.

_Dec_. _4th_.--Reached Luttora after an easy march of three hours and a
half, for the most part along an excellent path. We passed the following
villages _en route_ Chibong, Wakon, Mtarm, and Mcyompsan: three of
which are of some size; none however so large as Nsas. This is the
largest Singfo village I have seen, and probably contains 400 people.
This village and all the others are situated on high ground, the ascent
from the Kampai being probably 70 feet. The country consists of level,
apparently good soil, with here and there broadish ravines in which
bamboos are abundant. Cultivation is common, and of considerable extent.
On a similar eminence is situate Luttora, and it has been well chosen,
for on both sides that I approached it, the ascent is steep and capable
of being easily defended; the south side is bounded by the Ponlong Panee,
which runs into the Tenga Panee. If any ascent it is an easy one, and
must be to the westward; to the north, there is a small stream, but
neither this, Ponlong or Tenga are any thing but mere rills, which may be
easily leaped over in the dry seasons. Our route from Nsas was to the W.
of south. No stockades appear to exist in this quarter.

Luttora is not so large as Nsas; formerly the Luttora Gam was the chief
of all this soil, but he has been partly deserted by two bodies of men
who have respectively chosen Nsas and Htan-tsantan.

The Gam visited me in the evening at our halting place on the Ponlong; he
is a large, coarse, heavy-looking man, nearly blind, and excessively
dirty. He proposed of himself to me, to become the Company's ryott in
accordance with the wish, he said, of the Dupha Gam; but when I told him
he ought to send or go to the Suddiya Sahib, or Political Agent, he said
he wanted to see the Dupha first: he was accompanied by a very loquacious
oldish man, who had just returned from Hook-hoom, to which place he had
gone with the Dupha. They left apparently not much pleased at my being
empty handed.

_Dec_. _5th_.--Left at 6.5, reached the Muttack Panee about 8.5, having
come through much heavy bamboo jungle; we then ascended the dry bed of
the Muttack, and ascended after some time the Minaboom. This was most
tedious, as we continued along the ridge for two hours; we then commenced
our descent, but did not reach the Meera Panee much before 1 P.M. Down
this we came here, and then along some curious chasms in the sandstone,
and encamped about 3. The difference of soil between the Minaboom and
the Mishmee hills is most obvious; on the N.E. declivity there is much
soil; but on the opposite side little but rounded stones which supply the
place of soil, and in places we saw nothing but sandstone conglomerate?
or indurated soil with many boulders imbedded in it, and a blackish
greasy clay slate; while on the Mishmees, on the contrary, all is rock,
hard and harsh to the touch; or where loose stones do occur on the face
of the hills, they are all angular. The vegetation of sandstone is
likewise far more varied; and that of the Meera Panee district, abounds
in ferns, among which is Polypodium Wallichianum. The Tree-fern of
Kujing I observed in the Muttack, Sedgwickia in Minaboom, two
Magnoliaceae, one bracteis persistent, induratis, and a Dipterocarpus.
The chief vegetation of the ridge consists of grasses, among which bamboo
holds a conspicuous place. A Begonia was common along the Muttack. The
Meera Panee would well repay a halt of two or three days.

At our halting place we met four Burmese, despatched by the Maum, {51}
who has arrived at Beesa on a visit to the Luttora Gam.

_Dec_. _6th_.--Reached Beesa after a sharp march of six hours. Our
course lay at first down the Meera Panee; here I observed more of the
Polypodium Wallichianum, which is common throughout the Singfo hill
country, and appears to be used as grog, at least the juice of the
petioles. We then diverged to the westward through heavy jungle, and the
remainder of our march consisted of uninteresting dense jungle, water-
courses, and excessively low places. Observed Sabia in some of the
jungles; the only interesting plants gathered were an Impatiens and two
or three Acanthaceae. About 2.5 P.M. we came on the Noa Dihing, which
is now nearly dry, the water having flowed into the Kamroop. No boat,
not even a dak boat, can come near Beesa. It is obvious that this river
here never presented any depth, both banks being very low; the bed
consists of small hard boulders.

_Dec_. _7th_, _8th_.--Halted at Beesa.

_Dec_. _9th_.--Started for the Naga village, at some distance, and

_Dec_. _10th_.--Left for Kujoo or Khoonlong, which we reached about 1,
after a march of five hours. At 10, we arrived at Dhoompsan or Thoompsa,
a large village with extensive cultivation. The remainder of our march
was through heavy jungle, many parts of which were very low, and crowded
with a fierce Calamus. The higher parts abound in a Dipterocarpus, and
two Castaneae. I found many fine ferns, all of which however we
collected last year. Chrysobaphus, not uncommon. Apostasia rare.

_Dec_. _11th_.--Visited the tea in the old locality at Nigroo. No steps
have been taken towards clearing the jungles, except perhaps of tea. The
Gam tells me, that the order for clearing was given to Shroo, Dompshan,
and Kumongyon, Gams of three villages near the spot. Noticed Dicksonia
_en route_, so that we must have passed it last year. AEsculus also
occurs here.

_Dec_. _12th_.--Arrived at Kugoodoo after an easy march of two hours and
a half. At 12, went to see the tea which lies to the S.S.W. of the
village, and about ten minutes' walk to the W. of the path leading to
Negrogam, and which for the most part runs along an old bund road. After
diverging from this road we passed through some low jungle, which is
always characterised by Calamus Zalaccoideus; and then after traversing
for a short time some rather higher ground, came on the tea. This patch
is never under water; there is no peculiarity of vegetation connected
with it. It runs about N. and S. for perhaps 150 yards by 40 to 50 in
breadth. The Gam had cleared the jungle of all, except the larger trees
and the low _herbaceous underwood_, so that a _coup d'oeil_ was at
once obtained, and gave sufficient evidence of the abundance of the
plants, many of which were of considerable size, and all bore evidence of
having been mutilated. They were for the most part loaded with flowers,
and are the finest I have seen in the Singfo country. Young buds were
very common, nor can I reconcile this with the statement made by the Gam,
that no young leaves will be obtainable for four months. From the
clearing, the plants are exposed to moderate sun; it is perhaps to this
that the great abundance of flowers is to be attributed. The soil, now
quite dry at the surface, is of a cinereous grey; about a foot below it
is brown, which passes, as you proceed, into deeper yellow; about four
feet deep, it passes into sand. No ravines exist, and mounds only do
about a few of the larger trees. The soil as usual is light, friable,
easily reduced to powder, and has a very slight tendency to stiffness.

_Dec_. _13th_.--Left for the Muttack: our course lay through dense
jungle, principally of bamboo, and along the paths of wild elephants;
these beasts are here very common. We halted after a march of seven
hours on a small bank of the Deboro; the only plant of interest was my
Cyananthus in flower.

_Dec_. _14th_.--Continued through similar jungle along the Deboro; bamboo
more frequent. About 2 P.M. we left the undulating hillocks, and the
jungle became more open. At 4, we reached Muttack, but had still to
traverse a considerable distance before we halted at Kolea Panee. We
crossed the Deboro _en route_; no particular plant was met with. I
shot two large serpents, _Pythons_; one 8, and the other 10 feet long.
The Kolea Panee is of some width, but is fordable.

_Dec_. _15th_.--After marching for about seven hours, halted at a small
village. The country passed over was, like most of this part of Muttack,
open, consisting of a rather high plain covered with grasses, T. sperata,
Saccharum, and Erianthus, with here and there very swampy ravines; the
soil is almost entirely sandy, light at the surface; the yellow tint
increasing with the depth, which is considerable. Crossed the Deboro by
a rude wooden bridge. I found no particular plants _en route_.

_Dec_. _16th_.--Reached Rangagurrah, after a march of about an hour: and
halted for the day.

_Dec_. _18th_.--Started to visit Sedgwickia at the wood, where we found
it in February last. Reached the spot, which is at least ten miles from
Rangagurrah, in two hours and a half. The trees had evidently not
flowered last year; many of the buds were of some size, and such
contained flower buds, each capitula being in addition enveloped in three
bracteae densely beset with brown hair. The natives assured me, it will
flower about April, or at the sowing of _halee_. When we before found
it, the buds were all leaf buds, which at once accounts for the
non-appearance of flowers. Gathered Sabia in the Sedgwickia wood. The
Major {53} arrived before I got back.

_Dec_. _20th_.--Revisited the tea locality of Tingrei, which we reached
after a five hours' march. The portion of it formerly cleared is now
quite clean: all the plants, and they are very abundant, have a shrubby
shady appearance; the branches being numerous, so that the first aspect
is favourable. But one soon detects an evident coarseness in the leaves,
the tint of which is likewise much too yellow; altogether their
appearance is totally unlike that of teas growing in their natural shade.
That part, and the more extensive one which we first visited in February
last, is now clearing; almost all the large trees have been felled, and
all the underwood removed. The branches, etc. are piled in heaps and set
fire to, much to the detriment of the plants: all the tea trees likewise
have been felled. My conviction is, that the tea will not flourish in
open sunshine; at any rate, subjection to this should be gradual.
Further, that cutting the main stem is detrimental, not only inducing
long shoots, but most probably weakening the flavour of the leaves. It
appears to me to be highly desirable, that an intelligent superintendent
should reside on the spot, and that he should at least be a good
practical gardener, with some knowledge of the science also.

_Dec_. _24th_.--Reached Suddiya. The country passed through was, for the
first two days, of the same description as before; i.e. rather high
grassy plains with belts of jungle, and intervening low very swampy
ravines. The soil precisely the same as that of the tea localities. The
last march was, with the exception of Chykwar, through low damp dense
jungle.

* * * * *

_Extract from the Author's letter to Captain F_. _Jenkins_,
_Commissioner of Assam_, _regarding the Mishmees_. _December_,
_1836_. {54}

"I had thus become acquainted with all the influential chiefs near our
frontier, and by all I was received in a friendly and hospitable manner.
In accordance with my original intentions, my attention was in the first
place directed towards ascertaining whether the tea exists in this
direction or not, and, as I have already informed you, I have every
reason to think that the plant is unknown on these hills. From what I
have seen of the tea on the plains, I am disposed to believe that the
comparative want of soil, due to the great inclination of all the
eminences, is an insuperable objection to its existence.

"As I before observed to you, during my stay at Jingsha, my curiosity had
been excited by reports of an incursion of a considerable force of Lamas
into the Mishmee country. It hence became, having once established a
footing in the country, a matter of paramount importance to proceed
farther into the interior, and, if possible, to effect a junction with
these highly interesting people; but all my attempts to gain this point
proved completely futile; no bribes, no promises would induce any of the
chiefs to give me guides, even to the first Mishmee village belonging to
the Mezhoo tribe. I was hence compelled to content myself for the
present, with obtaining as much information as possible relative to the
above report, and I at length succeeded in gaining the following
certainly rather meagre account.

"The quarrel, as usual, originated about a marriage settlement between
two chiefs of the Mezhoo and Taeen tribes: it soon ended in both parties
coming to blows. The Mezhoo chief, ROOLING, to enable him at once to
overpower his enemies, and to strike at once at the root of their power,
called in the assistance of the Lamas. From this country a force of
seventy men armed with matchlocks made an invasion, and, as was to be
expected, the Taeen Mishmees were beaten at every point and lost about
twenty men. The affair seems to have come to a close about September
last, when the Lamas returned to their own country. Where it occurred I
could gain no precise information, but it must have been several days'
journey in advance of the villages I visited.

"It was owing to the unsettled state of the country, resulting from this
feud, that I could gain no guides from the Digaroos, without whose
assistance in this most difficult country, I need scarcely say, that all
attempts to advance would have been made in vain. These people very
plausibly said, if we give you guides, who is to protect us from the
vengeance of the Mezhoos when you are gone, and who is to insure us from
a second invasion of the Lamas? Another thing to be considered is, the
influence even then exercised over the Mishmees near our boundaries by
the Singphos connected with the Dupha Gam; but from the renewal of the
intercourse with our frontier station, there is every reason for
believing that this influence is ere this nearly destroyed.

"The natives of this portion of the range are divided into two tribes,
Taeen or Digaroo and Mezhoo, these last tracing their descent from the
_Dibong_ Mishmees, who are always known by the term crop-haired. The
Mezhoo, however, like the Taeens, preserve their hair, wearing it
generally tied in a knot on the crown of their head. The appearance of
both tribes is the same, but the language of the Mezhoos is very
distinct. They are perhaps the more powerful of the two; but their most
influential chiefs reside at a considerable distance from the lower
ranges. The only Mezhoos I met with are those at _Deeling-Yen_, a
small village opposite _Deeling_, but at a much higher elevation, and
_Tapan_. I need scarcely add that it was owing to the opposition of this
tribe that Captain WILCOX failed in reaching _Lama_. The Digaroos are
ruled by three influential chiefs, who are brothers DRISONG, KHOSHA, and
GHALOOM: of these, DRISONG is the eldest and the most powerful, but he
resides far in the interior. PRIMSONG is from a distant stock, and as
the three brothers mentioned above are all passed the prime of life,
there is but little doubt that he will soon become by far the most
influential chief of his tribe. Both tribes appear to intermarry. The
Mishmees are a small, active, hardy race, with the Tartar cast of
features; they are excessively dirty, and have not the reputation of
being honest, although, so far as I know, they are belied in this
respect. Like other hill people, they are famous for the muscular
development of their legs:--in this last point the women have generally
the inferiority. They have no written language. Their clothing is
inferior; it is, however, made of cotton, and is of their own
manufacture;--that of the men consists of a mere jacket and an apology
for a _dhoti_,--that of the women is more copious, and at any rate quite
decent: they are very fond of ornaments, especially beads, the quantities
of which they wear is very often quite astonishing. They appear to me
certainly superior to the Abors, of whom, however, I have seen but few.
Both sexes drink liquor, but they did not seem to me to be so addicted to
it as is generally the case with hill tribes:--their usual drink is a
fermented liquor made from rice called _mont'h_: this, however, is far
inferior to that of the Singphos, which is really a pleasant drink.

"_Religion_. Of their religion I could get no satisfactory
information--every thing is ascribed to supernatural agency. Their
invocations to their deity are frequent, and seem generally to be made
with the view of filling their own stomachs with animal food. They live
in a very promiscuous manner, one hundred being occasionally accommodated
in a single house. Their laws appear to be simple,--all grave crimes
being judged by an assembly of Gams, who are on such occasions summoned
from considerable distances. All crimes, including murder, are punished
by fines: but if the amount is not forthcoming, the offender is cut up by
the company assembled. But the crime of adultery, provided it be
committed against the consent of the husband, is punished by death; and
this severity may perhaps be necessary if we take into account the way in
which they live.

"The men always go armed with knives, Lama swords, or Singpho _dhaos_ and
lances; and most of them carry cross-bows--the arrows for these are
short, made of bamboo, and on all serious occasions are invariably
poisoned with _bee_. When on fighting expeditions, they use shields,
made of leather, which are covered towards the centre with the quills of
the porcupine. Their lances are made use of only for thrusting: the
shafts are made either from the wood of the lawn (_Caryota urens_) or
that of another species of palm _juice_--they are tipped with an iron
spike, and are of great use in the ascent of hills. The lance heads are
of their own manufacture, and of very soft iron. They have latterly
become acquainted with fire-arms, and the chiefs have mostly each a
firelock of _Lama_ construction.

"With _Lama_ they carry on an annual trade, which apparently takes place
on the borders of either country. In this case _mishmee-teeta_, is the
staple article of the Mishmees, and for it they obtain _dhaos_ or
straight long swords of excellent metal and often of great length; copper
pots of strong, but rough make, flints and steel, or rather steel alone,
which are really very neat and good; warm woollen caps, coarse loose
parti-colored woollen cloths, huge glass beads, generally white or blue,
various kinds of cattle, in which _Lama_ is represented as abounding, and
salts. I cannot say whether the Lamas furnish flints with the steel
implements for striking light; the stone generally used for this purpose
by the Mishmees is the nodular production from _Thumathaya_,--and this,
although rather frangible, answers its purpose very well; with the
Singphos they barter elephants' teeth, (these animals being found in the
lower ranges,) for slaves, dhaws, and buffaloes.

"With the Khamtees they appear to have little trade, although there is a
route to the proper country of this people along the _Ghaloom panee_,
or _Ghaloom Thee_ of WILCOX'S chart; this route is from the great
height of the hills to be crossed, only available during the hot months.

"With the inhabitants of the plains they carry on an annual trade, which
is now renewed after an interruption of two years, exchanging cloths,
Lama swords, spears, _mishmee-teeta_, _bee_, which is in very great
request, and _gertheana_, much esteemed by the natives for its peculiar
and rather pleasant smell, for money, (to which they begin to attach
great value), cloths, salt and beads: when a sufficient sum of money is
procured, they lay it out in buffaloes and the country cattle."

* * * * *

The following is a list of collections of Plants from the Mishmee Hills
to the extreme East, Upper Assam.

_Dicotyledones_. _Dicotyledones_.

(Ligulatae, 9) Ericineae, 7
Composi- (Cynaraceae, 4) 89 Verbenaceae, 8
tae, (Corymbiferae,76) Boragineae, 2

Labiatae, 50
Valerianeae, 1 Gesneriaceae, 22
Dipsaceae, 1 Acanthaceae, 38
Caprifoliaceae, 6 Scrophularineae, 19
Rubiaceae, 42 Solaneae, 6

Apocyneae, ) 5 Convolvulaceae, 8
Asclepiadeae, ) Primulaceae, 1

Gentianeae, 7 Myrsineae, 19
Oleinae, 2 Escalloniaceae? 3
Jasmineae, 6 Malvaceae, 6
Campanulaceae, 7 Cruciferae, 3
Lobeliaceae, 7 Polygaleae, 1
Vacciniaceae, 2 Violaceae, 5
Passifloreae, 1 Begoniaceae, 6
Modeccoideae, 1 Umbelliferae, 4
Samydeae, 1 Araliaceae, 12
Ampelideae, Leea, 6 Rhamneae, 1
Balsamineae, 15 Celastrineae, 9
Sileneae, 6 Amaranthaceae, 8
Aurantiaceae, 5 Polygoneae, 12
Meliaceae, 5 Chenopodeae, 1
Sapindaceae, 3 Plantagineae, 1
Acerineae, 4 Urticeae, 14
Malpighiaceae, 3 Ulmaceae, 1
Hypericineae, 2 Euphorbiaceae, 21
Ternstroemiaceae, 11 Scepaceae, 1
Symplocineae, 3 Stilagineae, 5
Ebenaceae, 1 Myriceae, 1

(Rhus, 5) Juglandeae, 1
Terebin- (Buchanania, 1) Cupuliferae, 4
thaceae, (Phlebochiton, 1) 9 Betulaceae, 5
(Sabia, 2) Salicineae, 1

Zanthoxyleae, 5 Laurineae, 8
Conareae, 1 Hamamelideae, 2
Trygophylleae, 1 Thymeleae, 1
Rutaceae, 2 Santalaceae, 1
Ranunculaceae, 4 Loranthaceae, 2
Fumariaceae, 2 Proteaceae, 1
Myristiceae, 2 Elaeagneae, 1
Anonaceae, 4 Aristolochiae, 3
Magnoliaceae, 1 Combretaceae, 2
Berberideae, 1 Chlorantheae, 1
Lardizabaleae, 1 Piperaceae, 14
Menispermeae, 5 Coniferae, 1
Rosaceae, 16 Incertae, 17
Leguminosae, 31 Unarranged, 8
Philadelpheae, 2 Ditto, 14
Saxifrageae, 3 ---
Melastomaceae, 9 725
Onagrariae, 3 ---
Myrtaceae, 2
Cucurbitaceae, 6
_Monocotyledones_ _Acotyledones_

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