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Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The by William Griffith

W >> William Griffith >> Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The




_Kkul Bhans_.--Cirrhinus Calbasu, a sombre looking breamoid-shaped
fish, attains the same size as the above, and is reputed to be excellent
food.

_Mhirgh_.--Gobio Mrigala, a handsome fish, particularly when young; form
very elegant, intestines fourteen times the length of the body; excellent
food.

_Bura Raiwah_.--Gobio Rewah, a very handsome, eight-cornered, scaled
fish, with orange fins and golden sides: takes no bait?

_Chota Raiwah_.--Gobio occurs in shoals--either occupied in busily
turning up its silvery sides against the bottom, or at the surface, above
which it may be seen protruding its head.

_Bhangun_.--Gobio, a handsome fish, not esteemed.

_Potea_.--Systomus, takes bait--worms; affords good sport and reaches to
one seer, but is not esteemed; colours ordinary.

_Systomus_, a beautiful fish, back shining green, sides yellow, scales
beautifully striate, with a spot near the tail; mostly found in still
water.

_Gonorrhynchus_.--Snout rough, colours sombre, belly somewhat
protuberant; found with Systomus. The intestines are of the usual form
of the genus.

Gonorrhynchus, a sombre smaller fish, found in still water.

_Bura Chalwa_.--Much esteemed as food in the districts of the Sutledge.

_Perilampus_.--Intestines shorter than the body, having at the lower end
a short curve; above green, from lateral line downwards silvery.

_Moh_.--A _Siluroid_ fish, does not attain the size of the real Moh,
which is a higher or deeper formed fish.

_Tengrei_.--Silurus platycephalus. Attains a very large size.

_Gudha_.--A Percoid. Colour irregular brown, mouth very protractile.

_Gughal_.--Ophiocephalus, a handsome fish, back rich greenish, mottled
brown, with 3 or 4 black spots on the sides, which are yellow, passing
off into white, and a peacock spot on the tail. Fins spotted with white:
it reaches a large size.

_Bham_.--Macrognathus, body eel-shaped, with a row of movable spines
along the back.

About Loodianah, the Naiad of Affghanistan, Monandra, stigmatibus
reniformibus, is common in the Nullah, so also is Butomus begonifolius,
but this may be a leafless form of Sagittaria.

Towards Roopur, Sissoo becomes more and more common. Roopur is a largish
town, with a Seikh pucka fort on a mound. The fort is surrounded by a
dry ditch. The town is situated on a low, rather rugged ground, forming
the first elevations of the surface towards the Himalayas; beyond it to
the north-east is a low spur, also to the west a similar spur, very
barren, rugged, clayey rock forming the immediate bank of the river.
Every thing assimilates to the Bukriala and Jhilun ranges. Saccharum,
_Moong_, as before, _Bheir_ likewise occurs.

Phoenix, Dalbergia sissoo, Ficus, Adhatoda, Boerhaavia scandens,
Hyperanthera, Morus, Apluda, Tamarisk, Riccia, Ammannia, Euphorbia
antiquorum, Cactus, and Dodonaea, form the chief vegetation.

Some rapids occur near the Bungalow: the strongest is under a cliff on
the opposite side; no fish rose to red or black hackle or orange flies,
all which were tried in vain in the deep still water close under
Bungalow. The plants of this place are Guilandina, Grewia arbuscula in
fruit, Justicia, _Bheir_, _Neem_, Mango, Parkinsonia, the latter rare.

Fish caught in net are Mullet, this fish is very active, and escapes by
jumping over. Silurus, Mahaseer, several of the latter taken at a haul,
the largest 10 lbs., it is a beautiful fish with golden sides, scales
black, with the anterior half bluish-black, posterior half tawny-yellow,
fins orange, lips very thick and leathery; it lives half or
three-quarters of an hour after it is taken out of its element.

The _Nepura_ of the natives, Gobio malacostoma, or Rock Carp of Gray,
Hardwicke's Illustrations, is the _puhar-ka muchee_ of these parts:
it has the base and edges of the scales dull greenish-blue, fins dusky, a
transverse pink line across the scales; the length of the intestines is
twenty-two and a half times that of the body, filled with mud and
coloured pulp, stomach continuous with the intestine, and more fleshy,
filled with green and whitish pulp, and disposed in longitudinal folds.

The _Bangun_, Roh, (Gobio) is a splendid fish, base and edges of the
scales dusky brown, otherwise refulgent gilded, belly white, fins dusky,
head greenish-brown, less gilding about the dorsal scales. This fish I
have not seen elsewhere. Length of intestines disposed in longitudinal
folds, the posterior of which are nearly as long as abdominal cavity, the
whole twenty-seven and a half times the length of the body. Organization
and contents as in _Nepura_. The breadth or depth of this fish
immediately behind the opercule three inches, across the body, opposite
the first ray of dorsal fin, five inches, first ray of anal three inches,
length twenty-two inches.

Query--In which part of a fish intestines like that of the Mahaseer, is
the chief digestion carried on?

_27th_.--To Nalighur Bungalow, the distance rather less than sixteen, but
over fourteen miles through a similar country to that round Roopur. The
road passes a large village called Canowli; at rather less than about
half-way it extended across a sandy dry river bed of some extent, on the
right bank of which, at the highest part, is a Seikh brick fort. The
road subsequently passes the Sursa, a small shallow rapid stream. The
dry bed of which turns up on the south side of the low range to the south
of Nalighur valley. No change in vegetation takes place, except the
occurrence of a Croton, much like that of the Pagoda near Canowli.

Trees observed--Eugenia Jambolana, Mangifera indica, Ficus, _Bheir_,
_Neem_ or Melia Azadarach, Parkinsonia about the bungalow. Toon, Cordia,
Bauhinia, Bambusa, Emblica, Morus, Plumeria, Mudar, Saccharum, _Moong_,
Bheir fruticos and Kikkur are the most common indigenous forms. Dhak in
patches here and there: Cassia also occurs.

Nalighur consists of a village and fort, the latter situated to the north-
east half-way up a range of hills, the country about very barren. Indeed
the aspect of the country is much like that between Hussun Abdul and the
Jhilun, except in the rarity of _Phulahi_.

A great affinity exists in foliation between Terebinthace and Sapindaceae.
Also both in foliation, flowers, and habit, between Myrtaceae and
Guttiferae, the only material differences being in aroma, and adherent
ovary.

The plants observed about Nalighur Bungalow, exclusive of species
collected, were Cassia lanceolatoid, this is the common Indian _Tora_,
Acacia, _Rairoo_, Achyranthes aspera, Digera arvensis, Polanisia viscosa,
Carissa, Carandas, Bheir frutex, Coccinea communis, Cucurbita, Sida
multilocularis, Amaranthus? spicatus, Cassia fistula.

Eleusine _echinata_; Poa very common, as well as _Dhoob_.

In gardens--Tabernamontana coronaria, _Bhee_, Chrysanthemum double and
ligulate. Of Birds, _Pica vagans_.

_28th_.--From Nalighur to Ramgurh, a good ten miles. The road first
ascends through and above the town, then follows a short twisting
descent, and soon after a very long but not very steep ascent, until it
comes over the ravine of the Ramgurh river, and the descent to that
torrent; thence an uninterrupted steep ascent about as much as the
descent to Ramgurh. There is no bungalow at this stage, merely a few
shops and sheds. The fort is situated to the left of and 600 feet above
the town.

From Ramgurh to Sahee Bungalow, the distance is eight miles, there is a
steep descent to Sursa torrent, which contains very little water, then a
rather long and gradual ascent, then descend to the Gumbur river. The
road then extends up this ascent for one and a half mile, and continues
ascending on the right bank until within half a mile of the bungalow, to
which there is a slight descent. There is no made road along the Gumbur,
and I missed or did not observe the Soorog river. The Gumbur is a clear,
good-sized stream, fordable about the rapids, bed narrow confined.

The hills traversed were comparatively barren, and decidedly
uninteresting. However much in appearance they may here and there
assimilate to the Khorassan hills, no identity in vegetation exists
except perhaps in the Apocynum found at Attock.

The country is cultivated with great labour, and the villages though
small are numerous, and present a look of plenty, like English
white-washed cottages.

There is a difference between the vegetation of the hills near the plains
and those in the interior. On the former there are scarcely any trees,
and Adhatoda occurs in greater profusion than elsewhere. The Himalayan
provinces here present an extreme affinity with the same range to the
eastward, as Bootan and Mussoorie, but the forms are by no means so
frequent--i.e. species are not so numerous. Throughout the above twenty-
eight miles the vegetation is tropical: a few European forms occur as one
gets into the hills, but they are of no great value. The chief arboreous
vegetation consists of Rubiaceae, Mimoseae, Cassiaceae (_Bauhinia_),
Bignoniaceae, and Myrtaceae. These are much the most common between
Ramgurh and the ridge over Naligurh. Here also Nyctanthes is very
common; Zanthoxylon also occurs here and there like an Ash.

On the ridge above Ramgurh, Adhatoda is very common; Carandas likewise
occurs, but is not very common; Eranthemoides is rather common, but this
occurs in profusion on the descent; Cassia tora, O. lanceolata, and
Peristrophe occur.

On the descent from the above ridge, Porana appears. Lemon-grass,
Bambusifolia, Cryptogramae calamelanos, Adiantum flagelliformis.

On the long ascent Grislea, Acacia, Bheir, Zanthoxylon, Cordia,
Nyctanthes, Myrtaceae 1-2, Wendlandia, Bignonia, Randia, and two or three
other trees about houses, a species of Ficus; Euphorbia antiquorum common
on the drier parts.

On the ascent from the torrent, the vegetation is thick. Bauhinia
scandens, Carandas, Butea, Erythrina, neither common, others as before:
Loranthus.

At Ramgurh, Peepul, Erythrina, Rhus planted; Euphorbia antiquorum very
common, Cassia tora, C. lanceolata, Carandas common, Kalanchoe
integrifolia, Adhatoda not rare, scarcely a single wild tree.

Scutellaria occurs on the descent. Rubus, Berberis, Gnaphalium. On the
ascent from Sursa, Geranium, Clematis, Asparagus, Trichodesma of the
plains, Bombax (young), Bambusa, Hiroea, Dioscorea, Fragaria, Adiantum
flagelliformis, Calomelanos, Saccharum, _Moong_, Acacia, Adhatoda, Vitex,
etc. as before, but trees are not common, except Ficus and _Bheir_ in
profusion.

Descent to the Gumbur the same. Pyrus pomum appears, Carandas, Anatherum
muricatum, Briedleioides common. Along the Gumbur river, Pyrus,
Adhatoda, Mimosa, Dalbergia sissoo, Myrtaceae, Euphorbia, etc. continue
as before.

Between Nalighur and the commencement of the descent to the Gumbur, and
especially between the Sursa and that descent, the chief vegetation is
tropical grasses, such as Andropogons. Along the Gumbur, the hills are
well covered with tall bushes. Carandas common, but little if any grass.

Fossil shells are found along the Gumbur. Of birds Pica vagans,
Haematornis, and several Sylviae were observed.

About Sahi, young Pinus longifolia; all around, the hills are of the same
aspect. No fish were seen in the Gumbur, although I crossed it several
times. The view of the plains shows the commencement of the great chain
stretching out in low, very much undulated hillocks, precisely as in
Khorassan.

_29th_.--Proceeded from Syree to Konyar: this I think the longest of the
marches to Loodianah, and is nothing but one series of ascents and
descents chiefly along the Gumbur ravine: at the foot of ascent to the
Konyar, the road crosses a considerable stream, and nearly at the summit
of the ascent, branches off to Soobathoo.

Konyar is a rather large village, well ornamented with trees, in rather a
fine sort of valley, every inch of which is cultivated. The tank
adjacent to the village is well stocked with Nelumbium.

To Syree, the distance is eight and a half to nine miles. The road
crosses the Konyar village and valley, then ascends to the south-east,
and continues ascending gradually by an excellent road for a considerable
way, then it skirts a ridge and comes on the grand Soobathoo road. From
this a short but steep ascent, followed by a descent of a mile and a
quarter, conducts you to the bungalow.

No change occurs in the vegetation. The hills are more grassy and more
bare of trees, especially near Syree, but this is partly owing to
cultivation. The principal woody feature is Euphorbia antiquorum.

The plants before noticed occur throughout, except about Syree, where
scarcely a shrub is to be seen, nothing but burnt up grasses.

At Sahi, Roylea appears, also an odd-looking Modeeca and a Deeringia.
Near these is also an Asplenium, Echites. At Konyar, Prinsepia appears,
and continues becoming more and more frequent up to Syree. Towards this
place V. reniformis is seen, not a single northern grass, although Syree
must be nearly 5,000 feet high.

At Sahi, Pinus longifolia, Phoenix, Salix, and Polygonum of Chugur-Serai;
this is common as far as Konyar. Acacia, Carandas, Urtica nivea. Rice
cultivated.

About three miles beyond it, there is a beautiful ravine with dense
jungle and fine trees, chiefly Laurinea, and I think a Rhus; this is the
only spot I have seen reminding me of the Himalaya to the eastward.

At Konyar--Toon, Morus, Musa, Deeringia, Berberis, Briedleia.

The hills are as usual marked with wavy parallel lines, on which nothing
appears to grow. These lines are united by smaller oblique ones, whence
their origin?

_30th_.--To Simla. The road extends over undulated ground along ridges
until the foot of the great ascent is reached; this is long and steep,
especially steep at the first, or Buttiara pass, where it turns to the
face of the mountain, and extends through beautiful woods. The ground
frozen, with some snow; from this to Simla the road is tolerably level,
and defended on the _Khudd_, or precipice side by a railing. It then
passes through fir woods, etc. in which the exceedingly pretty Jay of
Bharowli is common.

The vegetation to the foot of the ascent, and nearly half-way up, is
unchanged. Andropogoneous grasses forming the prevailing feature; but
little arboreus or shrubby vegetation occurs. About halfway between
Syree and this an ascent takes place, on which Daphne, Hypericum, and
Echinops occur.

Near Syree--Bombax, Ruta albiflora, Daphne, Pteris aquilina, Clutia,
Aspidium, Polytrichum nanum and aloides, Hypericum, Berberis, Rubus,
Prinsepia, Rosa, Jubrung, Grislea, (rare,) Clematis, Cerasus, _Datura_,
_Bukhein_, Citrus, Spermacoce, Poederia azurea, and Andropogon
bambusifolia were observed. Ficus two species, Ficus repens,
Pommereullioid spicis longis, Rubia Mungista, Galium, Polygonum of
Chugur, Carissa, (rare,) Amaranthaceae, Conyza.

The great ascent is very instructive; half-way up observed Gaultheria,
conspicuous from its blood-coloured leaves; an oak occurs commonly but
stunted, and a few stunted Pinus longifolia.

Buddlaeoides occurs two-thirds of the way up, with Mespilus microphyllus,
Alpina, Labiata and Pyrus.

The oaks and Gaultheria increase in number and size towards Bithuria,
Conaria.

The first to cease is Euphorbia.

At the summit Berberis, Polygonum of Chugur, Rubus deltoideus, Conyza and
Prinsepia may be found, but to no extent. From this to Simla the
vegetation is chiefly northern.

Nothing definite is observable with regard to the distribution of forests
about Simla. The principal secondary ranges, including the Choor, which
is quite void of shrubby vegetation, is about north-east and south-west;
generally the southern aspects of those ridges on which forests occur is
bare; of this, there is a notable instance--Muhassoo.

Mount Jacka, which looks east and west by its broad faces, has both
densely enough wooded with oak, Euonymus, Rhododendron, Gaultheria, and
Ilex, but the ridge which looks to the plains is bare.

Some ridges again are quite bare, as that lowish one between Mounts Jacka
and Muhassoo.

The thickest and most humid woods decidedly occur on the northern faces
of the ridges; and all about Simla instances of this occur. Such spots
are at Simla so much sheltered from the sun, that the snow which fell on
the 23rd November is scarcely diminished.

Even in these there is no comparison in luxuriance and variety of
vegetation with the Mishmee or Bootan portions of the same stupendous
chain.

The trees are few in number as regards species, the only ones I have
observed are a species of oak which is very common, forming the chief
vegetation of the northern faces, and of both those of Mount Jacka.

The scarlet Rhododendron which occurs in the highest parts of the woods,
an occasional Pyrus, Benthamia, Euonymus, Gaultheria very common, also
Pinus Deodara, longifolia, and excelsa; of these the Deodar is most
common. Ilex, a pretty tree, occurring on Mount Jacka.

The following forms also I have noticed--Saxifraga ciliata, Berberis
asiatica, and Gnaphalia three or four species, which are chiefly confined
to grassy naked ridges. Thymus is also confined to these.

Ruta albiflora is very common in woods; Dipsacea and Artemisia on exposed
grassy spots; Swertia is common in damp places; Spiraea bella, Ledum,
Stemodia, Epilobium, Viola, Saccharum rubrum, Valeriana, Fragaria,
Galium, Clematis, Rosa, Rubus, Rumex, Leguminosae, Coronilloid, Smilax.

Acanthaceae, Androsaceae, particularly a Gnaphalioides common on the
exposed ridge of Mount Jacka; Myrsinea frutex, Parnassia common, Salix
fruticosa; on Prospect Point, Lycopodium, Herminioid, Epipactis, Orchideae
aliae, 2 Scitamineae.

Elaeagnus, Mespilus microphyllus, Polygonum of Chugur; 2 or 3
Amaranthaceae; Prinsepia, rare; very little variety in ferns; Pteris
chrysocarpa, Aspidium pungens, and another are the most common; nor is
there any variety in Epiphytous ferns, and very few Jungermannias. The
Mosses are Bartramia, Catharinea, Polytrichum aloides on banks with
Fissidens, otherwise Hypna are the most prevalent. A Neckera hangs from
every tree, and a Pterogonio Neckeroid covers almost every trunk, a
Brachymenium is likewise common.

Altogether, though numerous, there is no great variety in form.

On the summit of Chaka, Quercus, Gaultheria, and Rhododendron are common;
with here and there a Deodar.

On the east face of that mountain consisting of a long ridge, grasses
form the chief vegetation, among which Andropogons and Schoenanthus are
not uncommon, Gnaphalia and Artemisia occur; Thymus, Androsace
gnaphalioides, Potentilla, Coronilloid, Labiata frutex, Jasminum, Rosa,
Mespilus microphyllus, Clematis, Cnicus, Rubus, Labiata alia, Galium,
Swertia, Salvia were noticed.

Of the tropical forms, Andropogoneous grasses are most common, Saccharum
rubrum of the Khasyah Mountains, Desmodium, Acanthaceae, and Elaeagnus,
which last occurs on Prospect Point.

Saccharum rubrum extends up to 8,000 feet.

The woods generally on the surface are matted down with grasses or
Carexes, so that there is no variety of surface for the lower orders; in
such places, Ophiopogon is very common.

Regarding the Coniferae, Pinus excelsa is the rarest, Deodar is the most
common; longifolia occurs principally on a southern projection from
Chaka, and on the south face of the Mall ridge.

_December 5th_, _1840_.--Went to Mount Fagoo. After passing Mount
Jacka, or Chaka, you come on a bare country which continues at least on
all the southern aspects until you reach the ascent to Muhassoo, which is
at first steep, then gradual and long; the vegetation remains unchanged
until the Muhassoo ascent is begun upon; then Rhododendron, Quercus and
Gaultheria soon cease, and their places are occupied by a Quercus much
like Q. semecarpifolius, Pinus excelsa also occurs rather abundantly, and
of good size, the other vegetation continues.

The first part of Muhassoo, along which the road runs for some hundred
yards under its crest, is occupied by grassy vegetation, chiefly
Andropogon and Schoenanthus; Gnaphalia, Buddlaea, Labiata, Polygonum of
Chugur, Thymus, etc., and the crest of the same is chiefly occupied by
the undescribed oak.

But where the ridge takes a north and south direction, the west face
becomes almost exclusively occupied by Deodars, among which as one
proceeds up, Pinus Smithiana occurs; after turning again close to the
little Bazar on the north face, the road continues on this side to Fagoo,
extending through a heavy and magnificent forest of Pinus Smithiana and
Quercus semecarpifolius, the Deodar almost ceasing to appear; occasional
knolls are passed, on which grasses, Gnaphalium, etc. occur, the scenery
is very beautiful, the trees being ornamented with the grey pendulous
lichen, and with Neckerae, particularly the dark Neckera pendula. The
underwood consists here and there of shrubs, but generally herbaceous
vegetation, as grasses, Gnaphalia, etc.

In fact Muhassoo is genuinely Himalayan.

From Fagoo eastward the country is bare, except at great elevations; near
Muttiara to the north, forest-clad mountains occur, also at Huttoo, and
far away to the eastward other fir-clad ridges appear.

It may be said that the really fine forests are restricted above, within
8,000 feet.

The Smithia pine is a really fine tree, often 100 feet high, and three to
five feet in diameter, known by its downward curved branches, pendulous
branchlets, and pendulous oblong cones: many dead trees from the effects
of barking were observed. It is worthy of remark, that potatoes are now
cultivated in these woods.

The Deodar is not so large as Smithia, and is known by its tabular
branches and ovoid erect cones.

Andropogoneous grasses occur high up; even at the summit Acanthaceae
occur, scarcely any change in the terrestrial ferns, among which Adiantum
is found in profusion along the road, little change in Mosses, a
Polytrichum occurs at the higher elevations, also a Dicranum on dead
trunks of trees.

The only new arboreous vegetation consists in an Acer, which is a small
tree, also a small Poplar and Quercus semecarpifolius, this varies
greatly, Pinus Smithiana, Limonia laureola, a shrubby Rhododendron.

Fagoo is only 5,600 feet above the adjacent heights.

On the edge of the forest, the following genera, etc. were noticed--Spiraea
bella and S. aruncus,* Berberis asiatica, Swertia, grasses common,
Gnaphalium, Senecio., Epilobium, Pteris chysocarpa, P. aquilina,
Adiantum, Aspidium, Rumex, the Labiata fruticosa of Jacka, Potentilla
sanguinea, Artemisia, Coronilloid, Androsacea, Gnaphalioid, Epipactis,
Carex, Cnicus, Viola, Valerianum, Jasminum,* Viburnum,* V. aliud,
Populus,* Silene, Mespilus microphyllus, Verbascum, Thapsia, Ilex,
Euonymus, Loniceroid, Acer,* Eriogonoid,* Geranium scandens.*

Bupleuroid, Polytrichum, Rosa, Rubus, Salex fruticosa,* Fragaria,
Crataegus,* Saxifraga crassifolia, Viscum, Rubia cordifolia.

* Means altitudinal.

Viscum has one attachment, but from this many branches spring after the
form of the primary one. Muhassoo is of great extent, because an arm of
the mountain extends to the south, and there assumes a considerable
height, equal to that of Muhassoo itself, and equally well wooded. It is
of all other situations about Simla the proper place for collecting. The
succession of the pines in these regions is as follows:--

P. longifolia, dry barren spots, from 5,000 to 7,500 feet, as
Rhododendrum arboreum.

P. excelsa, from 7,500 to 8,500 feet, no groups occur.

P. Deodars, from 7,500 to 9,000 feet, especially on southern faces.

P. Smithiana, from 9,000 to 10,000 feet, and is in the highest perfection
on north faces.

One thing remarkable is the wide ranges of the above forms, for excepting
those marked with an asterisk, all are found about Simla.

The most common herbaceous family on Muhassoo is Compositae, and very
strange to say, most of its forms, as indeed the others, excepting some
of the trees, are found on the Khasyah Mountains at much lower
elevations, and much lower latitudes. Of birds the _Cone-eater_ of
Bootan occurs.

_7th_.--To Annandale, a pretty level spot, some 2,000 feet below Simla,
remarkable for its beautiful grove of Deodars.

Of the wild grasses they are almost all exclusively tropical forms,
Paniceous or Andropogoneous. The chief cultivation of the hills,
Atriplex sanguinea, _bhatoo vena_, some fine walnut trees, mulberries,
also Celtoidea? _Kirrack ven_, Zanthoxylon.

Passed a herd of red-rumped monkeys; the crooked-tailed _Lungoor_ is also
found here.

Rich vegetation extends down the southern slope, where there is a
waterfall. It is curious that both here and in Annandale the Deodar
grows to a large size, although naturally its range does not extend so
low as this slope. Passed a beautiful temple, surrounded with fine
Deodars.

Ferns occur in more abundance, thence downwards Woodwardia, Dicksonia?
Cyatheoides, and Adiantum. Mosses also occur on the dripping rocks.

An Alnus also occurs.

No fish were visible in the streamlet. Peristrophe occurs throughout
from Roopur to Simla.

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