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Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The by William Griffith

W >> William Griffith >> Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The




"This collection is particularly interesting, as showing that while the
plants, quadrupeds, and birds of the southern and northern declivities of
the Kohi-Baba, the continuation of the Hindoo-koosh, are much alike, yet
that a total difference exists in their fish.

"Lord Keane, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, left me in complete possession of
my own time, a great kindness due no doubt to the considerate
instructions of Lord Auckland, but for which I was not the less grateful.

"I always found Sir Alexander Burnes very considerate and very willing to
forward my views, and put me in possession of information. The late Dr.
Lord also showed himself anxious to assist me in my duties, and very
kindly asked me to join the Mission to Toorkistan, so suddenly put an end
to by a suspected outbreak in Kohistan.

"To Captain Macgregor I was under great obligations during the whole time
I continued in his district. Through his influence I was enabled to
remain at the outer borders of Kaffiristan; and that deservedly warm
respect which he was held in by all the chiefs, would, I am confident,
have gained me access into Kaffiristan, and towards Cashgur, at any less
unsettled period. I have seen Captain Macgregor in the closet and in the
field, and I cannot sufficiently express the respect with which I have
had cause to regard him in both situations.

"Captain Sanders, of the Bengal Engineers, was always eager to swell my
stock of materials, and during periods of occasional indisposition, I
relied almost entirely on him. Captain Sanders had also made for me a
collection of plants between Candahar and Herat, which, I regret to say,
was nearly entirely destroyed in crossing one of the rivers on that
route.

"It is to Dr. Ritchie, of the Bombay Medical Service, the companion of
the justly celebrated Major Pottinger, during his return from Herat via
Jhomunna, that the Botanical collections are mostly indebted. Dr.
Ritchie not only placed unreservedly at my disposal a very interesting
collection made on that journey, but also a larger one made between
Peshbolak and Peshawur. Both these are of considerable value, the one
shows that the Affghan forms prevail as far as Herat on both sides of the
Paropamisus, the other shows that Affghanistan, even in its hottest
parts, has a majority of European forms. To the contents of these
collections, notes of the localities are also added, enhancing their
value very considerably. I may be excused for adding, that Dr. Ritchie
is acquainted with route surveying; in this and his knowledge of Botany,
he possesses two valuable requisitions of a traveller.

"Dr. Grant, of the Bombay Medical Service, formerly in Medical charge of
Dr. Lord's Mission, liberally presented me with an excellent series of
specimens from the valley of Syghan.

"While I am beyond measure indebted for Zoological collections, to
Captain Hay, of the European Regiment."

* * * * *

"The following notes addressed to Emanuel Fernandez, plant collector at
Malacca, may perhaps be useful as containing instructions for the
collection and transmission of plants and seeds. They are perhaps worthy
of insertion on other grounds, as an example of the painstaking, and
patient manner in which Mr. Griffith made his wishes known to the persons
employed by him in his pursuits."

* * * * *

_To Emanuel Fernandez_.

"I have received the open box of seeds, and the large case of plants, per
_'Tenasserim_.' The Ebool seeds were coming up, the dried plants are in
good order, and are of very good kinds.

"Before you put in the palms and fruits with other collections, you
should see that they are quite dry, as otherwise they rot and injure the
dried plants. When you send up more fruits, etc. put them into open
rattan baskets, so that they may be aired.

"I send a list of palms and _rotans_ wanted very much, and two more
glazed cases for seeds: water the earth inside a day before closing the
boxes and sending them off to Singapore. Whenever you get any good
seeds, dry them, and put them in a letter, directed to me. Seeds spoil
by being kept, particularly if kept among wet fruits and dried plants.

"If you can get flower-pots in Malacca buy two or three dozen, and
whenever you get seeds sow them in a pot, and keep them, until you have
enough pots filled to occupy one of the cases, then put mould between the
pots, and sow more seeds in this mould, fasten the lid down and send off
the box to Singapore."

* * * * *

_May 30th_, 1843.

"The cases of plants, etc. have arrived: the fresh plants were nearly all
dead.

"You planted them very well, and cleverly, but some how or other the lids
of the boxes were nailed down, and so the plants died; because plants
will not live without light.

"Some of the Ebool seeds have sprouted, one Lanjoot arrived alive, and
also the Pakoo Galowe.

"I will send soon two glazed cases, in which you may put plants as
before, and seeds of palms, or any good plants: sow them in the same
manner, and three or four days before the cases are despatched water the
earth and plants moderately; then screw down the lid, when the plants, if
they have rooted in the earth, will not die, because the glass admits
light to them. But to be sure of the plants having rooted, you must keep
the cases with you for three weeks, and if any plants are sickly, take
them out and put in others.

"I send a list: when your next despatch arrives, I will increase your
pay. If you send plenty of seeds, etc. often, that is once a month or
six weeks, I will keep you in my service even if I do not come back to
Malacca.

"I also send a box with a large bottle in it of spirits of wine, this is
for monkey cups (Nepenthes). Take the finest ones you can get of all
sorts, and put them in the bottle, leaves and all, do not squeeze them
into the bottle, then send it to me."

* * * * *

"I send two empty glazed cases for plants: when these reach you, fill
them with moist earth and plant in them ripe fresh seeds of the following
palms * * * You need not wait until you have obtained all, but such only
as you can get at once; but remember when you have got ripe seeds of any
kind to sow them in the case. Take care the earth is not too wet. The
seeds you sent, sown in an open box, came up, and we have now six or
seven live Ebools, etc.

"Send me up some ripe fruits and seeds of the Epoo, those you sent were
not ripe. If you can get any ripe ones, also sow some with the palm
seeds."

* * * * *

_Calcutta_: _March 26th_, 1844.

"When you prepare Rotangs do not cut off the stalk of the leaf close to
the stem, but six inches from it, and do not cut off the thorns, but tie
all up in mats or gunny bags: at the same time send the leaves of each
dried in paper like other plants and flowers, all with names written
plainly in English and Malay.

"Send live plants according as you receive boxes for them."

* * * * *

"Whenever you find ripe fruits or seeds, dry them in the sun, and then
send them to the Post Office for despatch in paper bags. Sow palm seeds
in open boxes as you did before, the Ebool having come up."

* * * * *

_January_ 14_th_, 1844.

"The plants dried and living have been received, and do you great credit.
The live plants particularly are in excellent order. I have sent two
more cases, when they reach you, fill them as you have done before, and
despatch them to me. I send some cards on which you can write the names
plainly, and tie them on the specimens. I will also send you a pocket
English Dictionary, and make you a present of the English and Portuguese
one."




PRIVATE JOURNALS OF WM. GRIFFITH, F.L.S.


CHAPTER I.


_When proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the_
_Examination of the Tea Plant_.

_September_, _1835_.--We arrived at Pubna on the 9th of September, and
left it on the following morning, pursuing the course of the Pubna
"Karee," which is exceedingly tortuous and of about an average width of
100 yards. On the evening of the 10th, we halted in the same river near
its termination. This morning we reached the "Beera," into which the
Pubna Karee enters, and which at the mouth presents a vast expanse of
water. Among the jheels which occur on every side, we noticed in
abundance the _Tamarix dioica_. About noon we entered a narrow river,
and in the evening a very narrow creek in which in two places we
experienced a great difficulty in getting the boats along. We noticed
_Alpinia allughas_, _Nymphaea pubescens_, _Oxystelma esculentum_,
_Apluda aristata_, in abundance. Up to this period the two most
conspicuous grasses continue to be _Saccharum spontaneum_, and
_Andropogon muricatus_.

_Sunday_, _13th_.--Arrived at Shiraz-gunge, about half-past 8 A.M., from
which place the people say Jumalpore is a three days' journey. The
country through which we proceeded after leaving Shiraz-gunge is nothing
but a net-work of rivers, several of vast size, and low islands, occupied
almost exclusively by _Saccharum spontaneum_, and in some places
abounding in _Typha elephantina_, in fruit. We halted at a small
village in the evening, where we procured _Centrostachys aquatica_.

_September 14th_.--Came in sight of distant very elevated land, which
we suppose to be the Kassiya Hills. This morning (15th) the Hills are
very plain, and bear nearly due north. The country through which we
passed yesterday presented no change whatever. _Andropogon muricatus_
has now nearly left us; but the _Saccharum_ reaches to a large size, and
is incredibly abundant. The natives use it for thatching their huts. We
were visited by a heavy squall in the evening.

_16th_.--Strong winds from an easterly direction. About noon we
succeeded in reaching a creek, in which we are completely sheltered.
During our route here, we were employed in examining a new species of
_Crotalaria_, and one of _Mitrasacme_! In pools close to us are
_Damasonium indicum_, _Nymphaea caerulea_, _Myriophyllum_
_tetrandrum_, _Polygonum rivulare_, and a species of _Villarsia_, _V_.
_cristata_.

_19th_.--Left the creek, and arrived at Jumalpore about 2 P.M.; the
cantonment of which occupies the right-hand side of the Burrampooter,
along the bank of which the officers' houses are situated; indeed this is
the only dry line about the place, as immediately inland there are
nothing but jheels and rice fields. Jumalpore is about .75 of a mile
from the junction of the Jenai with the Burrampooter or rather from the
point of exit of the former river.

_24th_.--We left the cantonment about 11 A.M., and proceeded down the
Burrampooter, which is a very uninteresting river, and appears more like
a net-work of water and sand banks; opposite Jumalpore, the banks are
about a mile apart, but the distance between the extreme banks, leaving
the island opposite the cantonment out of the question, is much more.
During the dry weather this part of the river is passable, and indeed is
in some places nothing but a dry bed of sand, so that people walk across
it. During our stay at the above place we met with many interesting and
new plants, among which a new species of _Villarsia_ occupied the most
prominent place. _Cyperaceae_, _Gramineae_, and aquatic _Scrophularineae_
abound. _Solanum spirale_ occurs in abundance, and the trees commence
to be clothed with ferns. I observed only one _Epiphytica Orchidea_,
probably an _Aerides_.

The banks consist hitherto of nothing but sand, covered with _Saccharum_
_spontaneum_. _Andropogon muricatus_ is scarcely to be met with.

_26th_.--We left Mymensing this morning, and proceeded down the
Burrampooter, the banks of which still present for the most part nothing
but a succession of sandy banks covered with _Saccharum spontaneum_.
The stream is not very rapid, and the river, owing to the numerous
islands and banks, does not present so imposing an appearance as the
Ganges. For the last week strong easterly winds have prevailed.

_27th_.--We entered the mouth of the Soormah, or, as the natives seem to
call it, the Barak. The water of this river or portion of the Megna? is
remarkably clear, compared with that of the Ganges; as indeed is that of
the Burrampooter.

_30th_.--Some time after we entered the Soormah we apparently left its
channel, and up to this morning we have passed through a tract of jheels
with a few clear and very deep channels. The villages are built on small
eminences, and are entirely surrounded with water; they have the usual
form, and those houses adjoining the water have fences of an _Arundo_,
which they tell us are intended to keep out the grass. We have since
entering these jheels passed through and between immense beds of
vegetation, formed principally of _Oplismenus_ (Panicum) _stagninus_,
_Leersia_? _aristata_, which by-the-bye is a distinct genus. _Villarsia_
_cristata_, _Nymphaealotus_, Potamogeton, _Azolla Salvinii_, etc. etc.
The only novel things we have met with are _Ischaemum cuspidatum_,
Roxb. (sui generis,) and a small grass intermediate between Panicum and
Chamaeraphis. The wild form of _Oryza sativa_, _Panicum interruptum_
and _Leersia_? _ciliaris_, Roxb. also occur; the two former in abundance.
On the more dry tracts, that occasionally though very rarely occur,
_Andropogon muricatus_ appears. No _Saccharum_ presented itself since
the 28th. High ground was visible yesterday evening, apparently at a
great distance.

_October 1st_.--We have continued to pass through immense jheels: about
6 A.M. we arrived at Hubbe-gunge, a large native town, situated on the
Barak, which does not deserve the name of a river. The actual distance
from this place to Chattuc is about 42 miles, and the high land in that
direction was faintly visible for about 2 hours in the morning. The
ground to the Eastward is losing the "Jheel" character, and appears
densely wooded, and to the S.E. rather high hills are visible. Altogether
this land of jheels is very remarkable, particularly on account of the
great depth of the water, which except in one point has hitherto always
exceeded 6 feet, and yet the water has fallen in all probability two or
three more. As the head quarters of tropical aquatic plants, it is well
worthy of attention; the profusion of _Leersia aristata_, Roxb. is
immense, but this is almost exceeded by _Oplismenus stagninus_.

_On the 3rd October_, we left the tract of jheels, and proceeded by
small rivers, overhung with jungle and fine bamboos; on the 5th we re-
entered the Soorma and proceeded down it to Chattuc, which is situated on
the left bank of the river, and which we reached in the afternoon. During
our passage down the river we had beautiful views of the mountains, which
do not however strike one with an idea of great height. We could plainly
distinguish two or three waterfalls shooting over scarped precipices.

_Churra Punjee_, _October 30th_.--After a residence of 20 days here,
I wrote to Mr. Solly, stating nothing particular, except that Bucklandia
has coniferous tissue, and that Podostemon will probably prove
Monocotyledonous and allied to Pistiaceae. Our stay here has proved a
source of great delight, and accumulation of botanical and geological
treasures. The cantonments of Churra are at an elevation of 4200 feet
above the sea, the native village being situated half way up the ascent
which closes in the table-land on which the cantonment is situated
towards the N. and W., and it is hence about 300 feet higher. The
country immediately adjoining the cantonment is flat, with here and there
a rounded hillock, destitute of any covering but grasses and a few low,
half shrubby plants. To the Eastward there is a very deep and beautiful
valley, the west side of which in particular is densely covered with
jungle, but this does not contain any large trees. The opposite side,
fronting our bungalow, runs nearly N. and S., presents a succession of
ravines, and a most picturesque and varied surface. This valley, along
the bottom of which as is usual a torrent runs, opens into the low
country at Terrya Ghat, which is situated at the foot of the ascent to
Churra. Directly to the south, and at a distance of about two miles from
the cantonments, there is another valley likewise occupied below by a
torrent fed by the Moosmai falls. The commencement of all these valleys,
that I have at least seen, is a sheer precipice, which often, and
particularly at Moosmai, assumes the form of a vast amphitheatre, over
the brink of which cascades, especially at Moosmai, fall in tolerable
plenty. It is in these places that the immense depth of the sandstone is
best seen; the depth of the valley of Moosmai is, I am told, 1500 feet,
the country above these precipices is generally level, and is in fact
table-land. The most beautiful valley is at Maamloo, a village to the
Westward of Churra, and about five miles distant. The approach to Churra
is pretty enough, and gives the best view of the cantonment. The coal
mines are to the Westward, and close to Churra. These I have not yet
seen; the coal is of the very best description, it does not splinter,
gives remarkably few ashes, affords an admirable fire and the best coke.
Water-courses are plenty about Churra, but the body of water is at this
season small, although it becomes considerable after a few hours rain; it
is then that the great fall at Moosmai becomes really beautiful, the
water shooting over the precipice and falling into a bason about 150 feet
below. By a succession of these falls, although of more limited height,
it at length reaches the bottom of the valley. It is only on the
precipices about the fall that the Chamaerops appears to grow; at the
foot of a precipice a little to the right (going from Churra,) a tree
fern grows, which I have Wallich's authority for stating to be Polypod
giganteum, a fern which occurred at Mahadeb, and which I have seen in
somewhat similar situations at Mergui. All my excursions have been
confined to this valley and to the water-courses immediately around
Churra; once only have I quitted the table-land and proceeded to Maamloo,
and yet in this very limited space the profusion of objects has been such
as to enable me only to embrace a very limited proportion. The above
excursion proved very rich. About half way to Maamloo I discovered a
solitary tree fern (_Alsophila Brunoniana_,) and to the left, and up
the broken sides of the calcareous cliffs that occur here and between
Maamloo and Moosmai, a group of several magnificent specimens, of which
on the succeeding day we brought home three. We saw none above 30 feet,
although the specimen in the British Museum from these hills measures 45.
Their axis is of small diameter, and is nearly cylindrical, the vascular
fascicles being disposed in covered bundles, often assuming the form of a
UU near the circumference of the very dense cellular tissue of which the
axis is chiefly composed. Towards the base it is enveloped in an oblique
dense mass of intermottled rigid fibres (roots) which, as they are
developed in the greatest extent, the nearer they approach the base, give
the trunk a conical form. Their growth is essentially endogenous, and
will probably be found when examined aborigine to approximate to that of
Cycadeae, although these last are of a more exogenous than endogenous
nature. Nothing however is known of the growth of Palms, Cycadeae, or
tree ferns. I have above alluded to the calcareous rocks or cliffs;
these are of the same formation with those that occur so abundantly on
the Tenasserim coast, although they are much more rich in vegetation.
These I first saw at Terrya Ghat; like those of Burmah they abound in
caves, and assume the most varied and picturesque forms; they appear to
be the head quarters of Cyrthandraceae, of which we found a noble species
with the flower of a Martynia growing among the tree-ferns. They are
very rich in ferns and mosses, of which last near the tree-ferns I
gathered four species of four genera without moving a foot. The cliffs
in which, or at the foot of which the coal is found, bound the Churra
cantonments to the Westward. These are chiefly calcareous. The entrance
to Churra lies between this and the precipice at Moosmai. Very few
animals of any description are to be seen about Churra. I have seen one
small species of deer, about half as large again as the mouse-deer of
Mergui, and one young flying squirrel of a greyish black colour, with a
very bushy tail. Leopards are, they say, not uncommon. Tigers do not
generally come so high. Of birds, I mean about Churra, there are several
species of hawks, and their old companions crows and swallows; but I have
seen no sparrows, which is singular enough. There is one beautiful
species of jay, with crimson-orange beak and legs, and a pretty
king-fisher; but, except perhaps in the valleys, birds, I should say, are
very scarce. With respect to shooting, scarcely any is to be had; wood-
cocks are found in the dells about Churra, but sparingly. I have seen
only one snipe and one quail.

Regarding the natives, I have little to say. They are a stout-built,
squat, big-legged hill tribe: the women in regard to shape being exactly
like their mates; and as these are decidedly ugly--somewhat tartarish-
looking people, very dirty, and chew pawn to profusion--they can scarcely
be said to form a worthy portion of the gentler sex. They appear to be
honest; but that is a quality which, from the example of their European
lords, they are said to be losing fast. They have no written character;
every thing being transmitted by tradition, and performed by the
interchange of tokens. They drink like fish, and manufacture a bad kind
of arrack, the pernicious effects of which were experienced by the
European invalids when the Sanatarium was in existence. They pay respect
to their dead by the erection of a sort of kairns and large erect slabs
of sandstone rounded off at the upper end: of these, I believe, they put
up three or five to each friend, according to their means and, probably,
rank. The Churra people cultivate nothing but a little cotton, and
perhaps a species of Eleasine. They depend upon the plains for their
support and supplies, and this is good management since rice at Terrya
Ghat is sold at 70 or 80 seers a rupee. Their hire is, considering the
cheapness of their food, very expensive; a man being rated at four annas
a day, a woman at three, and a boy at two. I should add, that they have
no caste.

The climate is certainly very cool and cold, the thermometer ranging from
about 56 to 66 degrees in-doors at this time of the year. The rains are
said to be the coldest part of the year; they are excessive, commencing
in April and ceasing in October. It occasionally rains for fifteen or
sixteen days in succession, and without intermission; and nine or ten
inches have been known to fall in twenty-four hours. Since we have been
here, inclusive of this, we have had four days of wet weather, of which
three were continued rain. Both were ushered in by the sudden irruption
of heavy mists from below, which soon spread over the country, obscuring
every thing. These sudden irruptions occur during the partial breaking
up of the rain, during which time the valleys are completely choked up
with dense mists, the summits of the hills on the opposite side to that
on which one stands being alone visible. After the rains were over, in
the first instance, the plains, or rather the mass of haze hanging over
them, presented a most curious spectacle.

The coldest weather we have yet experienced was at Maamloo, on the 27th,
the thermometer at 8 P.M. being at 52 degrees. This is remarkable, as
Maamloo is rather below Churra. There is however a good deal of wood
round the place. {7}

With regard to Botany, the chief vegetation about Churra, as indeed is at
once indicated by the appearance of the country, consists of grasses.
Along the water-courses, which intersect this portion of the country,
_Bucklandia populnea_, a species of Ternstraemia, Pandanus, Eugenia,
Camellia, are found; while Compositae, Eriocaulon, and ferns abound in
the same places. The vegetation of the valleys is very rich and very
varied; and, an affinity is indicated with the botany of China by the
existence of a species of Illicum, I. khascanam, and several
Ternstroemiaceae. The great orders are grasses, ferns, compositae.
During a trip to Maamloo, a beautifully situated village on the brink of
the table-land, we discovered abundance of the tree-fern _Alsophila_
_Brunoniana_, the highest of which measured 25 feet. The appearance of
the tree is that of a palm. The flora surrounding these tree-ferns we
found to be exceedingly rich. Among Nepal ferns, I may mention
_Anisadenia_, _Saxifraga ligulata_.

_Interior of the Khasyah Mountains_.--On the 2nd, we left for
Surureem; at which place we halted a day. Bucklandia here occurs, of a
very large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet. It is a rugged-looking tree,
many of the branches being decayed. There we observed the first
_Rhododendrum arboreum_. Our next stage was to Moflong; during our
march thither, or rather mine, I had a fine view of the Himalayas, but
not upon the regular road to Moflong. The European forms certainly
increased in number between Surureem and the above place. Two great
acquisitions occurred on the road; a new Crawfurdia, and a Podostemon
which W. has named after me. This I found in the clear stream adjoining
the Bogapanee growing upon stones, and adhering to them very firmly. It
is on the hills about the Bogapanee that the firs first make their
appearance, but do not attain to any great size. The valley of the
Bogapanee is exceedingly deep, and both the descent and ascent are very
difficult.

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