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Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The by William Griffith

W >> William Griffith >> Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The




No particular change in vegetation is observed: two or three Umbelliferae,
a Scrophularia, Geranium, Ranunculus aquaticus, Herba immersa, foliis
anguste loratis, Potentilla, _Panserina_, a new Graminea.

The most common plants are still Carduaceae and Salvia; Rosa occurs also,
(Senecionoides ceased some time before) Statice, Scutellaria common,
Verbascum, Euphorbia linearifolia, Linaria ditto, Mentha: no change in
water plants, or in those of the sward, Chenopod. faemin. villos, coarse
grass, No. 998, common; the chief new feature is _Ruwash_, the dead red
leaves of which are abundant. Two villages were passed after leaving the
Helmund, both ruined, yet all spots cultivated, several with Cicer.
Watercourses as high up cliffs and hills as 100 feet above the river.

A dreadfully cutting dry wind blows down the ravine, and in our faces all
the way. Limestone cliffs occurred, about which the vegetation became
rich, more especially near a bridge consisting of trees thrown across a
narrow portion of the river, at a point where the stream is very deep;
near this are two willow trees of a different species. A fine Rosa, a
new Epilobium, Aconitum, Salisburifolium, a small Crucifera, one or two
Compositae, a curious Polygonum, a Rumex, a Dianthus, Silene, three or
four Umbelliferae, among which is the yellow Ferula? of the Kojhuk pass,
two or three new Leguminosae, Saponaria, Silenacea inflata, Cerastium may
be found among them, or in the fields close by.

_31st_.--We ascended the high bank or cliff over the bridge, and
continued up the ravine which lies over the river, but whose bed is too
narrow for a road: we passed two or three villages, the road undulating
over ground covered with granite boulders, or rather small masses,
rounded only when exposed to weather; the bottom of each undulation is
covered with sward and giving exit to a small stream; sometimes we came
on the bed of the river. At six and a half miles we came on a fort, used
as a custom house, and diverged again to the east up a ravine; the Arak
road continuing along the river. We passed another fort, and then
commenced the main ascent of Hajeeguk. In a ravine to the left, 100 feet
above us, was a large mass of half frozen snow: barometer at the foot of
main ascent 20.320, thermometer 80 degrees. The ascent is rather steep,
but easy enough: barometer 19.755, thermometer 80 degrees. Thence the
descent was steep for about 800 feet, and then gradual for four or five
more, when we encamped on sward. From the top of the pass we had a
beautiful view of the _ridge_ of Kohi-Baba, running about WNW.,
presenting a succession of fine bold rugged peaks, the conical mass was
not seen well, as there is heavy snow on it, and on some other parts of
the ridge.

Water is plentiful in all ravines, the lower parts of which are covered
with swardy grass. Cultivation is less advanced than at Yonutt,
consisting chiefly of barley; every capable spot is made use of. Boulders
of antimony, also a large mountain close to, and on the right of our camp
composed of this ore, which is very heavy; a ruined fort on the hill near
us, shewing again how some of these ridges become disintegrated. A
_cafila_ passed with huge loads of cloths of various sorts, carried on
asses, going to Bamean: they paid toll I observed at Choky fort.

The vegetation in the snow ravine was rich, and varied in the swardy
spots: Ranunculi 2, Swertia 2-3, Gentiana a fine one, Junci, Carices,
Euphrasia, Triglochin, Veronica as before, Cardaminoides; near the snow
in sward, a pretty Primula in flower; two other Pediculares. A Brynum on
the dry parts of the ravine, two Astragali in flower 2-3, Cruciferae,
Echinops, Carduaceae, Silene pusilla, Stellaria, Campanula odorata,
Rutacea about springs, Parnassia? Astragali 3-4, in flower, long past
this elsewhere, Thalictrioides, Secaloides.

See Catalogue Nos. --- of exposed face; Staticoides of Yonutt, Graminae
998, Carduaceae very common, Statice aliae rare.

The hill over which the pass runs, is chiefly covered with a herbaceous
Carduacea out of flower in profusion, one or two Astragali, an
Artemisioid, small Compositae, and the abundant Carduaceae of Yonutt,
Astragaloid pinnulis on the west side, _Koollah hujareel_, Statice,
Macrantha dentatis; a spinous leaved Carduacea, different from the Zamea
leaved ones out of flower, Gramin. 998 common, Chenopodioid? Arenaria
spinosa, Onosma, Carduacea alia, two or three Astragalus primus.
Altogether the vegetation is different from that of Oonnoo, in the
comparative absence of Statice, Dianthoid, and Astragali.

Similar swardy spots occur on the west of the pass, a large Swertia,
Caraganoid, Carices, etc. as before, Gentiana of Yonutt, a new
Potentilla, Salix fruticosa; here also occurs the first Orchidea I have
seen in Khorassan: it belongs to the tribe Orchis, but is out of flower.
On the 1st of Sept., I re-crossed Hajeeguk, directing my way again into
the snow ravine from the top of the pass, and found a number of plants,
for which see Catalogue. A Campanula abundant about springs at 12,400
feet. The vegetation of the ravine close by the little fort is rich, and
would repay two or three days' halt, as it runs a long way up the
antimony hill, Swertia in profusion, Geranium also, Stellaria, a fine
Conyzoidia.

I had here an opportunity of observing the curious effect of a patch of
snow in retarding vegetation, all the plants about, being as it were a
spring flora, even such as at similar elevations elsewhere, were all past
seed; such as Astragalus primus. Again, why do some plants flower sooner
at such elevations than at other lower places? such as Cardamine, here
past flower, but not commencing at Cabul; is it because this plant will
flower in the winter in Cabul? so there may be a law requiring such
plants to flower in wintery situations by a certain time? The idea is
perhaps absurd, as their growth depends exclusively on the power of the
sun.

_September 1st_.--After re-crossing Hajeeguk we continued our march to
Sohkta, five and a half miles. The road continued along a considerable
descent throughout, at first down the valley in which we had halted to
the west, thence down the large Kulloo valley in a northerly direction;
towards the mouth of first ravine or valley it is bad, passing across a
land slip, then it crosses the bed of a huge torrent falling at a great
rate, and obstructed with boulders; the right bank, a high almost
precipitous mountain, the left a high aggregate of granitic and other
boulders. Water abundant, divided into three streams or so: this torrent
comes direct from the nearest portion of Kohi-Baba, which appears of easy
descent, presenting beautiful peaks. The road then keeps along left
bank, undulating over the ravines, down which water flows from the hills
on the eastern side; some of these are very steep, and the road itself is
infamous, as may be supposed, crowded with boulders, and impracticable
for wheeled carriages: one precipitous ravine we passed through, the
rocks consisted of blackish, curiously laminated, and metallic looking
stone. On descending one steep ravine, we then came on the road leading
up to the Kulloo mountain, where we halted.

A good many villages, with forts, as usual were passed; the cultivation
more advanced than at our last halt, crops consisting chiefly of barley.
One good fort was observed close to our halting place opposite the
direction of the small Kulloo ravine; across the valley a well marked
road is seen running up a part of Kulloo ridge, at a lower elevation than
that which we crossed.

Poplars and willows occur in the large valley, particularly towards
Sohkta, a small orchard of stunted mulberry trees. Cultivation
consisting of peas; barley of fine grain, resembling wheat when freed
from the husk.

The plants of the valley of Kulloo were badly observed, as I was greatly
tired and fatigued. Polygonum fruticosum re-occurs, Silene, Clematis
erecta, Tragogopon, Salvia but less common, a curious Cruciferous plant,
Lactucacea purpurea of Cabul, Chenopodium villosum faemin. Dianthus,
Saponaria, Lychnis inflata, oats common in fields, the common thistle,
Urtica, Caragana abundant along the bed of the river, Papaver. On rocks
about camp, 2 Salsolae, Glaucum, Umbelliferae of the Yonutt ravine,
Artemisiae, Rosa _Ribes_! Scrophularia alia.

The valley is very narrow at camp, the river running between precipices,
in some parts passable without wetting the feet.

_2nd_.--From Sohkta Kullar-Rood to Topehee, eight and a half miles. The
road lay in a northerly direction for a quarter of a mile, then turning
up a steep ravine, with an ascent for 800 feet; then small descent, then
levellish, until we came to a black cliff, over which another steeper but
longer ascent extended, then it became levellish for some distance; two
other moderate, extended, longish ascents, led us to the summit, which is
500 feet higher than that of Hajeeguk. The descent continued steep and
most tedious on reaching the precipitous ravine of Topehee, the road
wound over small spurs, until we came to a grove of willows near the
village. The road although steep is not bad, the soil being soft, that
of the upper parts and of the descent, even annoying from the sand, both
might with little trouble be made easy, but especially the descent.

The mercury of the Barometer on the summit at 11 A.M., stood at 19.513,
at 11.5 A.M., 19.506, Thermometer 66 degrees.

The camels all came up but one, though very slowly; to them as to us, the
descent was more tiring than the ascent.

From the summit a fine view of Kohi-Baba was obtained, running to NW. by
N. To the NE., another high range, but not so marked as Kohi-Baba, was
seen running in a similar direction; on this, two considerable peaks
present themselves, but only visible when lower down.

A splendid view of the Bamean valley is here obtained. We have now
obviously passed the highest ranges: to west where the country is low and
flat; to the north, the mountains indistinctly visible, are beautifully
varied, presenting rugged outlines 10,000 feet above Bamean, also a view
of an unearthly looking mountain, most variedly sculptured, is obtained,
with here and there rich ravines and columnar sided valleys, presenting
tints very varied; in those of the lower ranges, rich rosy tints are
predominant; also niches in which gigantic idols are plainly seen: also a
view of Goolghoolla, looking as it is in reality, a ruined city: a fine
gorge apparently beyond the Bamean river, and a large ravine due north,
by which I expect the Bamean river reaches the Oxus; not a tree is to be
seen, except a few about Bamean. The whole view is indescribably
volcanic, barren yet rich, requiring much colouring to convey an idea of
it.

[Bamean Idols: p398.jpg]

To the top of the pass it is three and a half miles; the character of
Kulloo mountain is different from that above described, it is rounded,
and composed of a curious compact slate, towards the summit well covered
with plants, large tufts of Statice, two or three kinds, two undescribed;
immense quantities of Artemisia, coarse tufted grasses, Onosma, Carduacea
herbacea of Hajeeguk, uncommon; Triticoides 998, not common; Alium fusco
purpurea common. A few exposed rocks occur on the summit. The ravines
are all dry, there being no water or very little in them, and no
cultivation; thus the contrast visible on both sides of the Kulloo river
which runs round the foot of the mountain, is remarkable. Vegetation
being distinct on either side.

Yet the ravine of Topehee shows, that when exposed to the action of
water, this rock becomes very precipitous, cliffy, easily dislocated: the
latter part of the road winds over a portion of this. Chakor, Ptarmigan
a fine bird, voice somewhat like that of a vulture, to which it is
perhaps anologous.

About Sohkta or in ravines, Euphorbia linearifolia, Ephedra, Asteroides,
Rosa Ribes, Composita dislocata, Artemisiae, Aster pyramidalis,
Chenopodium villosum faem., Senecionoides.

Scutellaria, Scrophularia, Santonicoides, Polygonum fruticosum, Salvia,
Artemisia linearifolia, Centaurea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Umbelliferae
of Yonutt, Stellaria, Glaucium, Labiata nova, Hyoscyamus minor,
Lactucacea, Linaria, Salsola elegans, Marrubium, common thistle, Rumex,
Potentilla anserina, Sinapis of Siah-Sung ravine, Berberis, Secaloides,
Statice, _Marmots_, Statice glauca pedunculata, Stipha of Nakhood,
Aconiti sp., Ferula? Spiraea facie frutex, Ribes, Muscoides.

First ridge Dianthoides, Statice three to two glaucous species, one
sessile the other pedunculate, Ferula, Scutellaria, Labiata
trumpet-shaped calyces, Astragali, Diacanthus, Stipa, Ribes, Arenaria
spinosa, Triticum carneo pubescens, Pulmonaria corolla trumpet-shaped,
Salvia sparingly, Pommereulla, Artemisia in profusion, Spiraeoides,
Chenopodium villos., faemin. parvus, Leguminosae two or three, _Ruwash_
sparingly.

Not much change beyond 12,000 feet, at that height Glaucium in abundance,
with a few Hyoscyamus parvus, Borago.

Labiatifol, inciso dentatis occurs throughout, Sinapis of Siah-Sung
straggles to 12,000 feet.

[Topehee cliffs and ravine: m399.jpg]

The same vegetation continues down to Topehee; on the red hills over its
ravine, the plants are different. Portulacea cana, several pretty
Salsolae, a Polanisia occurs, with Statice two or three, a straggling
Astragalus, Ferula, Peganum re-appears! Cerasus canus, Carduacea Frutex
of Mailmandah, fructibus combretiformibus, Muscoides which is a Sedum,
Polygon. fruticosum common, the usual plants of cultivation, etc. etc.

_3rd_.--We proceeded from Topehee to Bamean, a distance of twelve miles,
for two and a half miles down Topehee ravine. The road is a decent
descent, although steepish: from thence turning abruptly at the Bamean
valley, we cross the river, which is of considerable size, but fordable,
although rapid. The road then extends along the left bank, not in the
valley which is occupied by cultivation, but winding over and round the
bases of low hills and cliffs, forming a northern boundary; throughout
this part the road is villainous, often impeded by huge blocks. After a
distance of about ten miles it improves, the valley expanding into a
cultivated plain.

Topehee valley narrows towards its mouth or exit, which is walled in by
high, red, raviny cliffs; above, in its upper parts it is well cultivated
with beans, barley, wheat, and oats, and contains two villages: it opens
into the Bamean valley at a village also called Topehee, there the Bamean
valley is well cultivated, with oats intermixed with barley or wheat,
trefoil, etc., it then narrows, forming the bed of a ravine occupied by
Hippophae, Tamarisk, etc., then it widens again.

The structure of the hills is curious, and generally exhibiting the
appearance of having been much acted on by water. They are often cliffy,
composed either of limestone or a soil of red clay, with which salt
occurs in abundance, conspicuous from the white appearance, or springs.
Crystals of carbonate of lime are frequent, limestone, or coarse
conglomerate with large rounded stones, occurs; together with a curious
laminated clayey rock, with white and ochraceous layers intermixed. The
tints most various, as well as the sculpture of the mountains: here
ravines representing tracery occur: there, columnar curiously carved
cliffs, exhibiting all sorts of fantastic forms: here, as it were, a hill
thrown down with numberless blocks into the stream, scattered in every
direction; and here, but this is rare, very red horizontal strata,
colours various, generally rosy, especially the clayey cliffs: here and
there the colour of the rock is ochraceous, at one place its structure is
slaty. The curious intermixture of these colours owing to the weather,
is striking.

From the head of two of the ravines by which considerable torrents flow
into Bamean river, beautiful views are obtained of the Kohi-Baba, whose
peaks according to native authority, stretch sixty miles to the westward
of Bamean, without much diminution in height. The scenery, however, is
less beautiful after emerging into the widened part of the valley, where
the hills are less varied both in form and tints, than they are in lower
parts: fine views however of Kohi-Baba are occasionally had.

Salsolae are the prevailing plants of the rocky sides of the valley,
Clematis erecta common, here and there a small Statice.

Caves occur throughout the wide portion of the valley, but chiefly on the
northern side; they also extend a little way into the narrow portion,
where they seem to be excavated into clayey-looking, red, earthy
limestone, or more commonly conglomerate, of coarse grey, or reddish
colour.

The caves are most common in two cliffs composed of conglomerate mixed
with transverse strata of the same rock, 3,400 feet high, presenting a
rugged outline; and between the two, which are 800 yards apart, large
idols are carved. These cliffs in some places have suffered little from
the action of the elements, as testified by the perfect nature of the
opening of the caves, and the corners, etc. of the niches enclosing
idols; in others they are furrowed by the action of water; in others
again slips have taken place to such extent in some, as to cause the fall
of all their caves, or of their greater portion, thus exposing the
galleries, etc.

The base of the cliffs is irregular, formed of the same conglomerate and
clay, but covered more or less by boulders, evidently brought down by the
river; by these many caves are choked up, so that originally the cliff
might have been perpendicular to the edge of the base, and if so, the
caves in the cliffs, and the idols, are of later date than those of the
rugged base. But more probably the cliffs, and the caves, are much as
they were originally, the boulders having been a subsequent deposit.

The western corner of the cliff beyond the large idol, is much destroyed;
on this, the force of the current would have acted: a breakwater
occurring along the returning face.

The caves are very numerous, but are confined chiefly towards the base of
the cliffs, not scattered over them as I believe Burnes represents. These
are of no size, finish, or elegance, and it is only their number, and the
extreme obscurity of their history, that makes them interesting; the
roofs are usually arched, and the walls are often supplied with niches,
and covered with a coating of tar of some thickness, and intense
blackness. The galleries are low, arched, and admit one person at a
time, or a line of persons with ease; they often form the ascent to the
upper caves now inhabited, but originally they were enclosed in the rock,
they are defended in such cases by a parapet.

The largest caves are those about the idols, but I see none of any size.
They are often domed, the spring of the dome is ornamented with a
projecting frieze, some of these are parallelogramic, in one instance
with an ornamented border thus.

[Part of a frieze in caves near Bamean: m402.jpg]

Some of the caves are situated as high as, or even above the tops of the
idols; all parts within the rock are lighted by small apertures.

Access to the large idol is destroyed; the smaller one is gained by a
spiral staircase of rude construction, and by galleries. The floor of
the galleries is rugged, the steps and the cement of the conglomerate
having worn out from between the masses of rock. The images all occupy
niches in the face of the hill: two are gigantic, the rest not very
large. They are generally in the usual sitting posture, and rather high
up, while the larger ones are erect, and reach the base of the cliffy
portion of the rock. They are all male, and all obviously Boodhistical;
witness the breadth, proportion, and shape of the head, and the drapery;
both are damaged, but the smaller is the more perfect, the face of the
large one being removed above the lower lip; the arms are broken off,
showing they were occupied by galleries. The drapery is composed of
plaster, and was fixed on by bolts which have fallen out, leaving the
holes. The arms in the smaller one are supported by the falling drapery.
The height of the large image in the niche is 135 feet.

The pictures are much damaged, the plaster on which they were painted
being mostly very deficient, all the faces are damaged by bullets or
other missiles: their execution is indifferent, not superior to modern
Burmese paintings; the colours however are good, the figures are either
grouped or single, and one is in the style of the time of Henry VIII,
with a hat and plume, others represent groups flying--one a golden bird,
another a man with a hemispherical helmet, all are much damaged. The
hair in some is dressed as in the modern Burmese top-knot, often
surrounded by a circle.

Otherwise the niches are not ornamented, except in one instance, as above
alluded to; the head of the smaller figure was formerly covered by the
roof, as evident from holes or troughs for timbers in the gallery. These
holes are now inhabited by pigeons, and the lower ones by cows, donkeys,
fowls, kids, dogs; some are filthy apertures blocked up by stone and mud
walls; the doors irregular, and guarded between two giants.

An old tope occurs near some small figures, it is composed of stones very
much disintegrated, with curious blocks of _kucha_ work, and large
Babylonish bricks; the smaller figures are much destroyed, some
completely; all are in alto-relievo.

The plants about Topehee valley, are Cichorium, Centaurea lutea, Berberis
common, Salvia, Cicer cultivated, Lucerne, Centaurea angustifolia, Cnicus
of Koti-Ashruf, ditto of Karabagh hills, Triticum, Asteroides, Avena,
Centaurea glauca, the common thistle, Ephedra, Mentha, Rumex, Melilotus,
Medicago, Artemisia pyramidalis, Lychnis inflata, Saponaria, Bromus,
Verbascum, Cerasus canus, Ferula, Statice, Salsola, Astragalus, Polygonum
fruticosum, Composita dislocata, Clematis erecta, Clematis alia,
Echinops, Leucades, Pulicaria fragrans, Hyoscyamus parvus, rare;
Geranium, Rosa, Fabago of Maidan, fructi echinatis, Arundo, Hippophae.

Halted at Bamean till the 6th, and inspected Ghoolghoola or Bheiran,
which presents extensive ruins: those of the city are almost destroyed;
but those of the citadel are more perfect, and situated on a mound 300
feet high, which still stands with steep banks or fortifications,
apparently of Kafir origin, generally _kucha_, with bases formed of
boulders. Three lines of defences remain on the valley side; and the
remains of a ditch 50 feet broad at the mound on the east side. _Pucka_,
or burnt bricks are common among the debris, also pottery, but this is of
the ordinary sort: I observed but few _pucka_ bricks in the fortification
on the west side. Great masses of rocks have been thrown about near the
building of the fort, and some of the lower bastions were built on these
masses. The mound is chiefly occupied by Salsolaceae, some of which
exist in profusion. Nothing seems to be known about the history of the
place, except that it was built by _Julal_, to whom the Mahommedans fix
_Ud-deen_.

Quails are abundant in the fields about Bamean; it is a curious thing
that in many of these fields oats far preponderate over other grain; yet
they are not cut, although all the seeds have fallen out of the ear! Can
it be cultivated solely for the straw?

Fine groves of poplars occur about certain portions of the valley; from
beyond this to the south, a beautiful view is obtained, embodying the
cliffs with the large image, and the back hills whose varied surface and
tints it is impossible to describe, so as to convey a correct idea of
their fine effect. The poplar grove contains some ordinary Mahomedan
_tombs_. The trees are the P. heterophylla, but the leaves are much
smaller and more silvery underneath than usual; a beautiful poplar of
large size and unencumbered growth, of the same sort occurs in the ravine
beyond the small image. Abundance of wild sheep's heads are preserved
about all the sanctified buildings, together with a few of those of the
ibex, and fewer of the wild goat. The plants of Bamean require no
specification, the hills are very barren, chiefly occupied by Salsoleae,
of which 6 or 7 species occur.

The water plants continue the same as at Cabul; Hippurus and Triglochin,
Mentha, Cochlearia, Naiad? Potamogeton of Siah-Sung, Polypogon.

The other plants are those found in cultivation, and present no change,
Anchusoides alba, abundant. Choughs very abundant; wild pigeons, ravens,
Laurus; the nuthatch, a noisy but not unmusical bird, Chakor, together
with small partridges, but these are rare; several Conirostres.

The greatest curiosity is a genuine trout, {404} this appears rare, the
spots are very bright, the largest caught was only six pounds in weight.
I could not take any even with the fly; but I caught with this,
Schizothorax, or one of the universal Khorassan Cyprins.

The range of the thermometer is great; before sunrise it varies from 28
degrees to 30 degrees! in the sun in midday it is 100 degrees! when there
is no wind, and the mornings are delightful.

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