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Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The by William Griffith

W >> William Griffith >> Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The




Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there is
also a Grimmia here on the river banks.

Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, very
rarely.

Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are not
wooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined to
ravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with grass. Here and there,
scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may be
seen to fall.

Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P.M., and here
regulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with the
large thermometer 210.5 degrees, by means of the one in wooden case 210.5
degrees, temperature of the air 92.5 degrees, red case thermometer
indicated the boiling point at 206 degrees!! nor would the mercury rise
higher.

_Saturday_, _23rd_.--Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to which
point the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great part
with gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckia
nepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax,
Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very large
Rottboellia, Bauheniae 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiaria
may all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is a
pure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng,
between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon,
Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varecae sp. Impatiens in abundance,
oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; rather
higher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; AEschynanthus fulgens, jack
and sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tender
Lycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences,
probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks with
Gordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum,
Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C.
bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as also
Andropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, in
fact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick tree
jungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with grass, either
Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur.
Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changed
especially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills is
covered with grasses, interspersed with rocks; the clumps of wooded
vegetation being small, irregular, and composed of barren looking stunted
trees.

Above this ridge the country puts on the appearance of a table land. At
Mahadeb, Staurogyne, Ruellia Neesiana, and Cryptophragmium are common, a
little above these is a species of Zalacca; Impatiens bracteata is very
common from near the foot to beyond Mahadeb; but it becomes small and
disappears before Moosmai is reached. Cymbidium bambusifolium commences
600 feet above Mahadeb. Linum trigynum commences at Mahadeb; Scutellaria
a little above, but I have found this at the foot.

Dianella is found 1,000 feet above Mahadeb, as also Camellia candata;
Plantago, and Eriocaulon 2 sp. appear about 500 feet above Mahadeb; and
continue to Churra. Randia, the common one, is found up to 4,000 feet.
Cinchona gratissima appears at Moosmai. The first Viburnum, also occurs
here. Impatiens graminifolia a little lower. Salomonia, which appears
half way to Mahadeb, continues to Moosmai and Churra, but is stunted.

Vaccinium, Ceratostemma, Crotalaria Hoveoides, Gnaphalia appear towards
Moosmai. Wendlandia at Moosmai. Ruellia persicaefolia straggles a
little lower than these. Smithia commences at Moosmai; Pandanus also;
this is excessively common on hills to the left, towards the caves.
Dipsacus commences above Moosmai.

_Monday_, _25th_.--Churra is situated in a plain surrounded in every
direction by low rounded hills, except to the E. and SE., on which side
there is a deep ravine, the whole plateau rising considerably towards the
north, in the direction of Churra itself. Ravines exist here and there;
it is along these, and the water-courses, that the only woody vegetation
is to be found. The rest of the surface is clothed with grasses, of
which a number of species exist, they are chiefly Andropogoneae. Two or
three Osbeckias exist; a Tradescantia (T. septem clavata) covers certain
patches with its bright blue flowers. Three species of Impatiens, two
with bright pink flowers are common. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonum occur
on the flat rocks, which frequently prevail; Arundinaria is seen every
where as well as a Smithia? with lotus-like blossoms. With regard to
birds, the Motacilla or water-wagtails are seen at Churra and at Pundoa,
are generally of yellow colour in place of white.

The woody vegetation consists of Berberis, Viburnum, Bucklandia, Cleyera
floribus fragrantis, petalis sepalis oppositis, Myrsine and many others,
too numerous indeed to mention.

The woods, towards Churra, assume that rounded and very determinate form,
which is seen so commonly in some parts of England, Bucks for instance.
None of the trees arrive to any great size. The generality are low,
rounded, and stunted. It is in these, that Quercus, Viburnum, and
Pandanus may be seen growing side by side.

_October 4th_.--Took the height of the station, which I make to be
3,921 feet; temperature 74 degrees; water boiled at 205 degrees; in the
small metal thermometer 198 degrees! centigrade 97 degrees; large metal
205.25 degrees; wooden scale 204 degrees.

_October 5th_.--Left for Surureem. On the first height on which the
village is situated, a Potentilla is to be found, and this becomes more
abundant as we continue to ascend. The next European form that appears,
is Fragaria, the height of which may be estimated at 4,200 feet, this too
becomes more common as we ascend; Caryota may be seen, or at least, a
palm tree, in ravines as high as 4,000 feet; Daucus appears at 4,300 feet
in grassy plains; Prunella at about the same, Gerardia at 4,500 feet;
Gaultheria and an Impatiens with very small yellow flowers at 4,800 feet,
as well as Othonna.

With the exception of these, the vegetation is much the same as that
about Churra: but the Balsams of that place disappear almost towards
Surureem, as well as the Tradescantia 7-clavata. Plants which are not in
flower about Churra, are found towards Surureem in perfection.

After the first considerable ascent is surmounted, and which is probably
4,750 feet, the country becomes more barren, the grass more scanty and
less luxuriant. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonium disappear; Xyris
continues in abundance, likewise Eriocaulons, especially the middling-
sized one; Bucklandia becomes more common and more developed; a
frutescent Salix commences at 4,800 feet, as well as a Gramen Avenaceum
vel Bromoideum.

Surureem is a small village, 100 feet above the rude bungalow, provided
for the few travellers who pass this way; close to it is to be found
Zanthoxylum and Hemiphragma, which last commences at Moosmai. The simple
leaved Rubus of Churra, petalis minutis carneis, has ceased; a trifoliate
one foliis cordato-rotundatis, existing instead. Most of the grasses
continue, but all are comparatively of small stature. Two new
Andropogonoids make their appearance: of Compositae, a Tussilaginoid and
a stout Senecionidea, the former not uncommon about Churra, but out of
flower. Salomonia ceased.

The height of Surureem I calculate at 4,978 feet; temperature 65 degrees
Fahr.; of centigrade 19 degrees; water boiled at 95.5 degrees of
centigrade; 203 degrees Fahr., wooden scale; 203.5 degrees large metal;
small ditto 195.5 degrees! Temperature of the air at 6 P.M., 63 degrees.

_October 6th_.--Temperature 6 A.M., 63.5 degrees. Left for Moflong.
There is a considerable rise at first, then the country is tolerably
level until one reaches the Kala Panee, the descent to this is about 7 or
800 feet, thence the rise is great, with a corresponding descent to the
Boga Panee, which I estimate at 4,457 feet, and which is certainly 1,000
feet below the highest ground passed on this side of the Kala Panee.
After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady wooden
bridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1,200 feet, thence there is a
small descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5,485 feet. Most of the
plants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less common
towards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but their
place is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwards
of four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes more
common on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thence
diminishing in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundant
towards a height of 5,200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, and
Spiraeas make their appearance at 5,300 feet. On the Kala Panee,
Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of the
ascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among grasses, with it
_Sphacele_? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5,400 feet,
Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the Kala
Panee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorba
appears at 5,400 feet, but in small quantities, and at this height
Anisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5,300 feet, continues at
the same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to the
Boga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5,000 feet with
Viola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the same
height. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5,500 feet, continuing even to
Moflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendages
of the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts.
Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to Kala
Panee, apparently quite wild; altitude 5,200 feet: it recommences at
Moflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size of
a small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here and
there, and may be found even about Moflong.

The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, although
of small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee;
so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side,
about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeed
are found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height of
the bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72 degrees; water boiled
at 204 degrees; which gives the height about 4,400 feet. Between
Surureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; grasses continue, as
also at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The principal new ones occur on
the descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied to
A. schaeranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. arundinacea; a beautiful
Saccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the Kala
Panee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form.
On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few small
ones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the Boga
Panee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parnassia; a
trailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadenia
pubescens, a Circaea, Campanulae 2, AEschynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?;
this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphalium
aereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur;
Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus,
Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris
(Aquilina.) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5,000 feet with
Plantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The most
striking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5,000 feet, occurs
stunted; this is common about Moflong.

Agrimonia range from 3,500 to 5,500 feet, where they are very common,
Hypericum three sorts occur, H. myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re-
occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is very
common. H. ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below
5,000 feet; H. japonicum is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H.
fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5,000 feet; Leucas galea
brunneo villosa on grassy hills is common towards Boga Panee, and
continues as high as Moflong.

Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge of
woods towards the Kala Panee; altitude 5,000 feet; it nearly commences
with two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives at
perfection on the Kala Panee.

Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5,000 feet, continues
here and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, but
not commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond the
Churra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong.

Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5,000 feet; other forms of
Ericineae appear in places about 5,000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as far
as Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation,
continuing to Moflong.

Three species of Spiraea are found between Surureem and Moflong, none
perhaps below 5,000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height,
continuing as far as Moflong.

On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulated
and much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen,
the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediately
around Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to be
seen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs.
Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spiraea _bella_? Eurya _camellifolia_, Betula
_corylifolia_.

To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, the
nearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedly
dirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. The
houses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges of
Colquhounia, Erythrina, Buddlaea.

In waste places Colquhounia _micrantha_, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris,
Davallia, etc. are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. The
hills are covered with low grass, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla,
Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis,
Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very small
Parnassia, and a still smaller Ischaemum.

Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common in
thickets, etc.

The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and which
answers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats and
pigs abundant.

On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiar
vegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of the
plants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state.

Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent.



CHAPTER X.


_Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan_.

The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudes
of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding
observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left
hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height
of which is something better than 6,000 feet.

[Gradient Surureem to Moflong: g163.jpg]

_October 8th_.--Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the
eastward; the road runs over the same _downey_ ground. The first plant
that appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned.
A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilobum not
uncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a wood
in one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size.
Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circaea and
Herminium?

Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera,
Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibus
gratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found.
Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothed
with grasses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys between
these, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, a
curious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. Another
Hypericum is likewise found in lately cleared places.

Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chiefly
of a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe;
together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme.

To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation,
the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and a
Habenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, the
latter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and an
Umbellifera with curious foliage.

The height of this ridge is 5,768 feet, the temperature being 74 degrees,
and water boiling at 201.75 degrees.

Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65
degrees; water boiled at 202.25 degrees; this gives 5,410 feet.

There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the south
of the Boga Panee,) the generality of which are more elevated than those
on the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, the
north face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1,000 feet above
Moflong.

8 P.M. Temperature 58.5 degrees. 5 P.M. 65 degrees.

_October 9th_.--Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A.M.,
58.5 degrees.

_October 10th_.--A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at
53.5 degrees. 7 A.M. left for Myrung. The march to Syung is
uninteresting, passing over precisely the same country as that about
Moflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree with
pink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. About
Syung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this place
that the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from this
northward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculis
villosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation passed
on the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a large
valley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and some
rice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on the
north side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent another
species of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urena
lobale was noticed as high as 5,300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung,
especially about Nungbree, Parnassia recurs, with another species of
Epilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecioneoe, etc.; a new Impatiens occurs
towards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same as
those about Moflong; but several new Compositae occur.

The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting parts
of the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plants
occurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, and
there is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. This
makes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an Elaeagnus
occurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hill
the altitude of which is 5,000 feet.

An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; a
new Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by me
on these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. canescens. The
altitude of Syung is 5,594 feet. The temperature being 70 degrees, and
water boiling at 202 degrees. Myrung 6 P.M. Thermometer 65 degrees.

_October 11th_.--Myrung 7 A.M. temp. 63 degrees Fahr.; noon 67 degrees;
6 P.M. temp. 65 degrees; 9 temp. P.M. 62.5 degrees. Weather unsettled,
showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and the
Himalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A.M. when the atmosphere
is clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation of
the hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods are
fine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree,
likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myrica
integrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the true
appearance of an Elaeagnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the first
arborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptions
occur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be a
terrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood to
the east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has a
very rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent abounds
with Orchideae, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge in
question may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered with
Epiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common,
climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes which
are frequented by a few snipe, present grasses, the usual Cyperaceae,
Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panicum stagninum? Eriocaulon spe.
fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides,
Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophilae
sp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similar
situations. _Goldfussia_ so common about Churra, recurs here, but
rarely.

The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green
_Bulbul_ is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with its
coquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Both
species of Phaenicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Century
as male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animals
are two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, but
although it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed in
securing it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail,
climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues.

The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fine
usually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the range
of the thermometer from 53 degrees, at 6.5 A.M. to 68 degrees in the
afternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerful
one, for the aspect on every side except to the E. and NE. is dreary,
marshes and the usual bleak grassy hills being alone visible. My
favourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the altitude
of which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs,
is 5,439, (or probably 5,700,) temperature of the air being **, and water
boiling at 202.5 degrees. There is a beautiful and very extensive wood
at Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at the
skirts, principally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya,
and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur.

[THE OK-KLONG ROCK: p167.jpg]

At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise the
vegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a huge
Sarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus cortice
suberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especially
towards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna and
Neckerae.

On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing about
NW. from Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; the
road runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to which
village one passes; the village is of no great size, and as well as
others in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the iron
being procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the sound
of their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that of
a sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finally
ceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists,
having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast mass, forming
a precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bare
of vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered with
tree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot some
fine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet in
circumference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks,
Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia.

The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepaticae, a Didymocarpus,
Caelogyne and some other epiphylical orchideae, among others Bolbophyllum
cylindraceum.

All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepaticae, which
are gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed with
grasses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches of
grass, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs--Viburnum,
another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, Caelogyne in profusion,
Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium also
in abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle.

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