A Voyage to the South Sea by William Bligh

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I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 degrees 41 minutes south.
This is the north-west part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the
Friendly Islands.

The weather was fair but the wind blew so strong from the east-south-east
that we could not venture to sea. Our detention made it absolutely
necessary to endeavour to obtain something towards our support; for I
determined if possible to keep our first stock entire. We therefore
weighed and rowed along shore to see if anything could be got; and at
last discovered some coconut trees; but they were on the top of high
precipices and the surf made it dangerous landing: both one and the other
we however got the better of. Some of the people with much difficulty
climbed the cliffs and got about 20 coconuts, and others flung them to
ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the boat. This was
all that could be done here and, as I found no place so safe as the one
we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the cove and, having
served a coconut to each person, we went to rest again in the boat.

Thursday 30.

At daylight we attempted to put to sea; but the wind and weather proved
so bad that I was glad to return to our former station where, after
issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we
landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, into
the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long vines which
were fixed there by the natives for that purpose, this being the only way
into the country.

We found a few deserted huts and a small plantain walk but little taken
care of, from which we could only collect three small bunches of
plantains. After passing this place we came to a deep gully that led
towards a mountain near a volcano and, as I conceived that in the rainy
season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped to
find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; but
after all our search the whole that we collected was only nine gallons.
We advanced within two miles of the foot of the highest mountain in the
island, on which is the volcano that is almost constantly burning. The
country near it is covered with lava and has a most dreary appearance. As
we had not been fortunate in our discoveries, and saw nothing to
alleviate our distresses except the plantains and water above-mentioned,
we returned to the boat exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to
the precipice whence we were to descend into the cove I was seized with
such a dizziness in my head that I thought it scarce possible to effect
it: however by the assistance of Nelson and others they at last got me
down, in a weak condition. Every person being returned by noon I gave
about an ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of
wine. I again observed the latitude of this place 19 degrees 41 minutes
south. The people who remained by the boat I had directed to look for
fish or what they could pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable
could be found: so that upon the whole we considered ourselves on as
miserable a spot of land as could well be imagined.

I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of this island
whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered inferior to
the other islands, and I was not certain but that the Indians only
resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to ascertain this
point for, in case there had been only a few people here, and those could
have furnished us with but very moderate supplies, the remaining in this
spot to have made preparations for our voyage would have been preferable
to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps we might lose
everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong I determined should go
another route as soon as the sun became lower, and they cheerfully
undertook it.

About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but, after suffering
much fatigue, they returned in the evening without any kind of success.

At the head of the cove about 150 yards from the waterside there was a
cave; the distance across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and from
the country into the cove there was no other way than that which I have
already described. The situation secured us from the danger of being
surprised, and I determined to remain on shore for the night with a part
of my people that the others might have more room to rest in the boat
with the master, whom I directed to lie at a grapnel and be watchful in
case we should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be
boiled and, having supped on this scanty allowance with a quarter of a
pint of grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it
was laid down to sleep in the cave, before which we kept up a good fire
yet notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and mosquitoes.

May. Friday 1.

At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route to see what
they could find, in the course of which they suffered greatly for want of
water: they however met with two men, a woman, and a child: the men came
with them to the cove and brought two coconut shells of water. I
endeavoured to make friends of these people and sent them away for
breadfruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us;
and by noon there were thirty about us, from whom we obtained a small
supply; but I could only afford one ounce of pork and a quarter of a
breadfruit to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water, for I was
fixed in my resolution not to use any of the bread or water in the boat.

No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were notwithstanding
tractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the provisions they brought
for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out informed me of
their having seen several neat plantations, so that it remained no longer
a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the island, for which
reason I determined to get what I could, and to sail the first moment
that the wind and weather would allow us to put to sea.

I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives for the loss
of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a story that
the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the hills. I was
at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact or say that the
ship had overset and sunk, and that we only were saved: the latter
appeared to be the most proper and advantageous for us, and I accordingly
instructed my people, that we might all agree in one story. As I expected
enquiries were made about the ship, and they seemed readily satisfied
with our account; but there did not appear the least symptom of joy or
sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I discovered some marks of
surprise. Some of the natives were coming and going the whole afternoon,
and we got enough of breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts for another day;
but of water they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also came in
with four men and brought a few coconuts and breadfruit which I bought as
I had done the rest. Nails were much enquired after, but I would not
suffer any to be shown as they were wanted for the use of the boat.

Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions
somewhat increased, but the natives did not appear to have much to spare.
What they brought was in such small quantities that I had no reason to
hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to stock us for
our voyage. At sunset all the natives left us in quiet possession of the
cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt that they would come
again the next day with a better supply of food and water, with which I
hoped to sail without farther delay: for if in attempting to get to
Tongataboo we should be driven to leeward of the islands there would be a
larger quantity of provisions to support us against such a misfortune.

At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to each person
for supper and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went to sleep.

Saturday 2.

At daybreak the next morning I was pleased to find everyone's spirits a
little revived, and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious
looks which had constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight
of the ship: every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness,
and they all seemed determined to do their best.

As there was no certainty of our being supplied with water by the natives
I sent a party among the gullies in the mountains with empty shells to
see what could be found. In their absence the natives came about us as I
expected, and in greater numbers; two canoes also came in from round the
north side of the island. In one of them was an elderly chief called
Maccaackavow. Soon after some of our foraging party returned, and with
them came a good-looking chief called Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly
Eefow, Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To each of these men I made a
present of an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had
seen me or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with
captain Cook, who they inquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were
very inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this
conversation a young man named Nageete appeared, whom I remembered to
have seen at Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at our meeting. I
enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were at Tongataboo; and
Eefow agreed to accompany me thither if I would wait till the weather
moderated. The readiness and affability of this man gave me much
satisfaction.

This however was but of short duration for the natives began to increase
in number and I observed some symptoms of a design against us. Soon after
they attempted to haul the boat on shore, on which I brandished my
cutlass in a threatening manner and spoke to Eefow to desire them to
desist, which they did and everything became quiet again. My people who
had been in the mountains now returned with about three gallons of water.
I kept buying up the little breadfruit that was brought to us, and
likewise some spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two
of which were in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation
I told our people I would wait till sunset, by which time perhaps
something might happen in our favour: for if we attempted to go at
present we must fight our way through, which we could do more
advantageously at night; and that in the meantime we would endeavour to
get off to the boat what we had bought. The beach was lined with the
natives and we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which
they had in each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack.
At noon I served a coconut and a breadfruit to each person for dinner,
and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate and
friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down but I as constantly
refused: for it occurred both to Nelson and myself that the intended to
seize hold of me if I gave them such an opportunity. Keeping therefore
constantly on our guard we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal in
some quietness.

After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the
boat, which was a troublesome business on account of the surf. I
carefully watched the motions of the natives, who continued to increase
in number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us,
fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night.
Consultations were also held among them and everything assured me we
should be attacked. I sent orders to the master that when he saw us
coming down he should keep the boat close to the shore that we might the
more readily embark.

I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the cave
and in sending it down to the boat, it was nearly snatched away but for
the timely assistance of the gunner.

The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person who
was on shore with me boldly took up his proportion of things and carried
them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with them all
night. I said: "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the morning we
will again trade with you, and I shall remain till the weather is
moderate that we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho at
Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up and said: "You will not sleep on
shore? then Mattie" (which directly signifies we will kill you) and he
left me. The onset was now preparing; everyone as I have described before
kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. All but two or three
things were in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand, and we walked
down the beach, everyone in a silent kind of horror.

While I was seeing the people embark Nageete wanted me to stay to speak
to Eefow, but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, and it was
my determination if they had then begun to have killed him for his
treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me till the
other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed
himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the boat except
one man who, while I was getting on board, quitted it and ran up the
beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master and others
called to him to return while they were hauling me out of the water.

I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; the
unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the
stones flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern
rope and were near hauling the boat on shore, which they would certainly
have effected if I had not had a knife in my pocket with which I cut the
rope. We then hauled off to the grapnel, everyone being more or less
hurt. At this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had
killed, and two of them were beating him about the head with stones in
their hands.

We had no time to reflect for to my surprise they filled their canoes
with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the attack, which
they did so effectually as nearly to disable us all. Our grapnel was foul
but Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke and we got to our oars
and pulled to sea. They however could paddle round us, so that we were
obliged to sustain the attack without being able to return it, except
with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we were very
inferior to them. We could not close because our boat was lumbered and
heavy, of which they knew how to take advantage: I therefore adopted the
expedient of throwing overboard some clothes which, as I expected, they
stopped to pick up and, as it was by this time almost dark, they gave
over the attack and returned towards the shore leaving us to reflect on
our unhappy situation.

The poor man killed by the natives was John Norton: this was his second
voyage with me as a quartermaster, and his worthy character made me
lament his loss very much. He has left an aged parent I am told, whom he
supported.

I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature with a smaller
number of Europeans against a multitude of Indians: it was after the
death of Captain Cook on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by
Lieutenant King. Yet notwithstanding this experience I had not an idea
that the power of a man's arm could throw stones from two to eight pounds
weight with such force and exactness as these people did. Here unhappily
we were without firearms, which the Indians knew; and it was a fortunate
circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave; for in
that case our destruction must have been inevitable, and we should have
had nothing left for it but to sell our lives as dearly as we could, in
which I found everyone cheerfully disposed to concur. This appearance of
resolution deterred them, supposing that they could effect their purpose
without risk after we were in the boat.

Taking this as a sample of the disposition of the natives there was but
little reason to expect much benefit by persevering in the intention of
visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour formerly to have
proceeded from a dread of our firearms, and which therefore was likely to
cease, as they knew we were now destitute of them: and even supposing our
lives not in danger the boat and everything we had would most probably be
taken from us, and thereby all hopes precluded of ever being able to
return to our native country.

We set our sails and steered along shore by the west side of the island
Tofoa, the wind blowing fresh from the eastward. My mind was employed in
considering what was best to be done when I was solicited by all hands to
take them towards home: and when I told them that no hopes of relief for
us remained (except what might be found at New Holland) till I came to
Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where there was a Dutch
settlement, but in what part of the island I knew not, they all agreed to
live on one ounce of bread and a quarter of a pint of water per day.
Therefore after examining our stock of provisions and recommending to
them in the most solemn manner not to depart from their promise, we bore
away across a sea where the navigation is but little known, in a small
boat twenty-three feet long from stem to stern, deep laden with eighteen
men. I was happy however to see that everyone seemed better satisfied
with our situation than myself.

Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds
of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three
bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and
the quantity we had on leaving the ship was principally owing to our loss
in the bustle and confusion of the attack. A few coconuts were in the
boat and some breadfruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces.

CHAPTER 15.

Passage towards New Holland.
Islands discovered in our Route.
Our great Distresses.
See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.

1789. May.

It was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away under a reefed lug
fore-sail and, having divided the people into watches and got the boat in
a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous preservation
and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my mind more at
ease than it had been for some time past.

Sunday 3.

At daybreak the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure
indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm and
the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was becalmed,
and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: but we could
not venture to take in the sail for we were in very imminent danger and
distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to
bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has perhaps seldom
been experienced.

Our bread was in bags and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be
starved to death was inevitable if this could not be prevented: I
therefore began to examine what clothes there were in the boat and what
other things could be spared and, having determined that only two suits
should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard with some
rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had
more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good
chest in the boat, in which we secured the bread the first favourable
moment. His tool chest also was cleared and the tools stowed in the
bottom of the boat so that this became a second convenience.

I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person (for we were very wet and
cold) with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce eatable, for
dinner: our engagement was now strictly to be carried into execution, and
I was fully determined to make our provisions last eight weeks, let the
daily proportion be ever so small.

At noon I considered our course and distance from Tofoa to be
west-north-west three-quarters west 86 miles, latitude 19 degrees 27
minutes south. I directed the course to the west-north-west that we might
get a sight of the islands called Feejee if they laid in the direction
the natives had pointed out to me.

The weather continued very severe, the wind veering from north-east to
east-south-east. The sea ran higher than in the forenoon, and the fatigue
of baling to keep the boat from filling was exceedingly great. We could
do nothing more than keep before the sea, in the course of which the boat
performed so well that I no longer dreaded any danger in that respect.
But, among the hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly wet
was not the least.

Monday 4.

The night was very cold and at daylight our limbs were so benumbed that
we could scarce find the use of them. At this time I served a teaspoonful
of rum to each person, from which we all found great benefit.

As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the west-north-west
till I got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better
weather but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood from
the natives of Annamooka that they lie in that direction. Captain Cook
likewise considered them to be north-west by west from Tongataboo. Just
before noon we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height
bearing west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. I observed our latitude to be 18
degrees 58 minutes south; our longitude was by account 3 degrees 4
minutes west from the island of Tofoa, having made a north 72 degrees
west course, distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five
small coconuts for our dinner and everyone was satisfied.

A little after noon other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three
o'clock we could count eight, bearing from south round by the west to
north-west by north, those to the south which were the nearest being four
leagues distant from us.

I kept my course to the north-west by west between the islands, the gale
having considerably abated. At six o'clock we discovered three other
small islands to the north-west, the westernmost of them bore north-west
half west 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these islands a
west-north-west course for the night under a reefed sail.

Served a few broken pieces of breadfruit for supper and performed
prayers.

The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest, everyone seemed
considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted on a few
pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we examined
our bread, a great deal of which was damaged and rotten; this
nevertheless we were glad to keep for use.

I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run, but we
now equipped ourselves a little better by getting a log-line marked and,
having practised at counting seconds, several could do it with some
degree of exactness.

The islands we had passed lie between the latitude of 19 degrees 5
minutes south and 18 degrees 19 minutes south, and according to my
reckoning from 3 degrees 17 minutes to 3 degrees 46 minutes west
longitude from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in
circuit; but it is impossible for me to be very correct. To show where
they are to be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The
sketch I have made will give a comparative view of their extent. I
believe all the larger islands are inhabited as they appeared very
fertile.

At noon I observed in latitude 18 degrees 10 seconds south and considered
my course and distance from yesterday noon north-west by west half west
94 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 4 degrees 29 minutes west.

For dinner I served some of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint of
water.

About six o'clock in the afternoon we discovered two islands, one bearing
west by south 6 leagues and the other north-west by north 8 leagues; I
kept to windward of the northernmost and, passing it by 10 o'clock, I
resumed our course to the north-west and west-north-west for the night.

Wednesday 6.

The weather was fair and the wind moderate all day from the
east-north-east. At daylight a number of other islands were in sight from
south-south-east to the west and round to north-east by east; between
those in the north-west I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy
island or key two miles distant from me bore from east to south
three-quarters west. I had passed ten islands, the largest of which I
judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands appeared in the
south-west and north-north-west, between which I directed my course.
Latitude observed 17 degrees 17 minutes south; course since yesterday
noon north 50 degrees west; distance 84 miles; longitude made by account
5 degrees 37 minutes west.

Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and the
meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each person: it was received
very contentedly but we suffered great drought. I durst not venture to
land as we had no arms and were less capable of defending ourselves than
we were at Tofoa.

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