Chambers' Edinburgh Journal, No. 421, New Series, Jan. 24, 1852 by Various
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Various >> Chambers\' Edinburgh Journal, No. 421, New Series, Jan. 24, 1852
NOTES FROM AUSTRALIA.
Letters from working-men have been published in great numbers by the
home-press, but a voice from the tradesman has seldom been heard; or,
if heard, has not been attended to. I trust in some measure to supply
the deficiency to those middle-class townsfolk who seek to emigrate to
Australia.
_1st_, I can only reconcile the different accounts furnished by
emigrants--believing people to write as they think at the time--by
remembering that some have come from quiet rural places, and others
from populous towns. The first will consider Geelong--its beautiful
bay, ships, and steamers, as a hustling, improving, and increasing
town, laid out for a future provincial capital; the last will regard
it as a dull, detached series of villages, which will some day be a
large town. A modification of these causes, allowing for age,
temperament, circumstances, and station in life, will explain any
ordinary discrepancy in the accounts from this country.
_2d_, The various accounts of the climate must in a measure be traced
to the same causes. People used to out-door labour in Britain find the
winter so mild, that everything is lauded to the skies; those used to
nice, roomy, convenient houses at home, finding themselves so very
differently situated, condemn climate, prospects, and everything. Both
may convey a false impression. The cold or heat by the thermometer is
no test of sensation; days, however warm, are exceedingly agreeable,
except the hot-wind days, which are absolutely indescribable, yet I
have seen some men work out all day in the worst of them. They cause
great relaxation in the system, and produce dysentery, especially
among children. Compared with other _hot_ countries, this appears to
be the most agreeable.
_3d, Employment_.--This is readily to be obtained by working mechanics
of all kinds in the towns; remembering that a very small sprinkling of
workmen for finer work--such as cornice-mouldings, fine freestone
work, cabinetwork, &c.--will be able to find employment for a long
time to come, because, till a new generation spring up, who can live
upon the accumulations of their sires, money will not be diverted to
any great extent from business in land, buildings, or merchandise. A
considerable number of labourers will find employment about the towns,
at the stores, on the wharfs, &c. at about 24s. weekly. Country work
on the sheep-stations--as shepherds, drivers of bullock-drays,
sheep-washing and shearing, cooking for the men, &c.--is remunerated
by about L.25 and food. These live far off in the solitary plains,
almost apart from men, and come to town once, twice, or thrice a year,
as their distance and employment may determine. The Sabbath has little
of the religious character for them, and they know little of the
progress of mankind. Agriculture also employs men at about the same
rate. There is no probability of wages falling, for a long time to
come, with any stream of emigration likely to come out hither; for if
the country cannot grow more wool, a greater attention to its quality
would employ more men; and agriculture will absorb a vast population
as soon as the land-question has been fairly overhauled, and settled
on a foundation that will allow a small capitalist to obtain, at a
fair price, a suitable farm: besides, everything necessary to
civilisation has yet to be done--roads, bridges, quarries, wells, and
a long _etcetera_ that one can scarcely catalogue.
_4th_, Capitalists of L.1000 and upwards can make, apart from
wool-growing, twenty per cent. on their money without being in trade,
chiefly by buying at the government land-sales, and subdividing the
section into small allotments, or by building houses, shops, &c. The
average of rental returns the capital in four years. But this can only
be done if emigration continues--and emigration with a sprinkling of
holders of L.50 to L.200. If this stops, there can be few purchasers.
Should a fixed price be put upon government land, there might be a
difference in the way in which capital could be turned to profit; but
L.1000 and upwards can find so many favourable investments in a new
colony, that a living could be secured without much trouble or
anxiety.
_5th, Population_.--By the census just completed, there are 78,000
inhabitants in Victoria (Port-Philip); County of Bourke,
44,000--including Melbourne, the capital, 20,000; County of Grant,
12,000--including Geelong, its capital, 8000. Warnambool, Belfast, and
Portland, along the coast, only number hundreds, and Kilmore, forty
miles inland, nearly 2000: there are also various villages--on
paper--so called, numbering ten to fifty houses each. From this it
will be seen that more than half of the entire population is within
twenty miles of Melbourne, a third of the residue within fifteen miles
of Geelong, and the remainder scattered, including the 1200
squatting-stations, over a very extensive country. These towns are
not, in my opinion, a natural growth, but have been forced into their
present magnitude from the difficulties in obtaining land at a price
to make up for the utter want of every convenience, a want arising
from the total absence of any effort on the part of the government
hitherto to make even one great trunk-road through the colony.
Facilities for internal communication would cause towns to increase
naturally. Now, people arrive with glowing ideas of the beauty and
fertility of the country, and finding everything difficult of access
there, betake themselves to shopkeeping, forcing up rents to an
exorbitant sum, and losing their little capital. I think my opinion
borne out by the fact, that the country population of Grant County was
1959 in 1846, and 4469 in 1851; Geelong in 1846 had 1911, and in 1851,
8000--the town population more than quadrupling itself in the last
five years, the county increasing only 2510. Melbourne and Bourke
County are nearly in the same position.
There are seven or eight merchants in Geelong who import goods of all
kinds, twenty-two drapery establishments in a respectable way, besides
numbers of small ones on the outskirts; other trades are
proportionately overdone. Melbourne is, I am credibly informed,
equally crowded. These facts shew that there is no opening for people
in business. A great imposition is practised by stating the increase
of a town at so much per cent., or having doubled or trebled itself in
so short a time, the fact being that even its present condition may be
that only of a village. Interested parties too often talk their places
into notice; and if people do not deal in 'notions,' they all have
some allotment that will just suit you, which they don't care to keep
any longer.
An argument from the amount of imports is made use of unfairly. The
United States are set down at 30s. per head, Australia about L.7 per
head. This latter, they say, is the country to encourage, to emigrate
to--see how prosperous it is! being blind, apparently, to the fact,
that Australia, having nothing as yet but the raw material, tallow and
wool, it must barter all it has for what it wants--a proof to me as
much of necessity as of prosperity. Many more persons cannot engage
profitably in the wool and tallow trade; the field is therefore narrow
for general purposes of emigrants, and easily liable to be
overstocked, unless the government take prompt measures to open out
the abundant internal resources of minerals, &c. and give easier and
cheaper possession of land: then, though the imports might not be much
more, the prosperity would be much greater. America I believe to be in
this latter position, presenting a more varied field for the
operations of the small capitalist, though her imports may be
inconsiderable per head.
I ought to state, that a great many of the reported cases of success
are, from misapprehension of the real circumstances of the parties,
either quite false, or calculated to mislead. Doubtless many
successful hits will be made by purchasers of mineral land, and so are
successful hits made at the gaming-table. Successful men, besides, are
well known, while the unsuccessful have slunk away and are forgotten.
Few fortunes have been made by simple shopkeeping.
I ought not to conclude without referring to farming, although not
practically acquainted with it; indeed, the accounts from farmers
differ as much as the size and shape of their farms: but it appears to
me that, from one or other of the following causes, farming has not
hitherto paid well:--A large farm has been purchased, leaving too
little cash to spare for the erection of houses, fences, and
cultivation; or leaving it burdened with a mortgage at heavy interest;
or a short lease--of three years--has been taken, and the money sunk
on the improvements; or the cultivation has been of such a wretched
description as failed to raise a remunerative crop. There never
appears to have been a want of sufficient market for any
field-produce. L.1000 judiciously invested on a farm, I believe, would
pay.
I trust it will be seen that my object in writing the foregoing has
been to guard against the pictures of climate and scenery, good or
bad, that are constantly written; to shew that plenty of employment at
a remunerative wage is to be had, but only of the heavy and laborious
kind; that there is a wide field for capitalists; but that shopkeepers
and townspeople, unused to out-door labour, have a poor chance, owing
to the smallness of the population and the competition which already
exists.
GROUND-LIZARD OF JAMAICA.
One feature with which a stranger cannot fail to be struck on his
arrival in the island, and which is essentially tropical, is the
abundance of the lizards that everywhere meet his eye. As soon as ever
he sets foot on the beach, the rustlings among the dry leaves, and the
dartings hither and thither among the spiny bushes that fringe the
shore, arrest his attention; and he sees on every hand the beautifully
coloured and meek-faced ground-lizard (_Ameiva dorsalis_), scratching
like a bird among the sand, or peering at him from beneath the shadow
of a great leaf, or creeping stealthily along with its chin and belly
upon the earth, or shooting over the turf with such a rapidity that it
seems to fly rather than run. By the road-sides, and in the open
pastures, and in the provision-grounds of the negroes, still he sees
this elegant and agile lizard; and his prejudices against the reptile
races must be inveterate indeed if he can behold its gentle
countenance, and timid but bright eyes, its chaste but beautiful hues,
its graceful form and action, and its bird-like motions, with any
other feeling than admiration.
As he walks along the roads and lanes that divide the properties, he
will perceive at every turn the smooth and trim little figure of the
wood-slaves (_Mabouya agilis_) basking on the loose stones of the dry
walls; their glossy, fish-like scales glistening in the sun with
metallic brilliancy. They lie as still as if asleep; but on the
intruder's approach, they are ready in a moment to dart into the
crevices of the stones and disappear until the danger is past.
If he looks into the outbuildings of the estates, the mill-house, or
the boiling-house, or the cattle-sheds, a singular croaking sound
above his head causes him to look up; and then he sees clinging to the
rafters, or crawling sluggishly along with the back downward, three or
four lizards, of form, colour, and action very diverse from those he
has seen before. It is the _gecko_ or croaking lizard (_Thecodactylus
loevis_), a nocturnal animal in its chief activity, but always to be
seen in these places or in hollow trees even by day. Its appearance is
repulsive, I allow, but its reputation for venom is libellous and
groundless.
The stranger walks into the dwelling-house: lizards, lizards, still
meet his eye. The little anoles (_A. iodurus, A. opalinus_, &c.) are
chasing each other in and out between the jalousies, now stopping to
protrude from the throat a broad disk of brilliant colour, crimson or
orange, like the petal of a flower, then withdrawing it, and again
displaying it in coquettish play. Then one leaps a yard or two through
the air, and alights on the back of his playfellow; and both struggle
and twist about in unimaginable contortions. Another is running up and
down on the plastered wall, catching the ants as they roam in black
lines over its whited surface; and another leaps from the top of some
piece of furniture upon the back of the visitor's chair, and scampers
nimbly along the collar of his coat. It jumps on the table--can it be
the same? An instant ago it was of the most beautiful golden green,
except the base of the tail, which was of a soft, light, purple hue;
now, as if changed by an enchanter's wand, it is of a sordid, sooty
brown all over, and becomes momentarily darker and darker, or mottled
with dark and pale patches of a most unpleasing aspect. Presently,
however, the mental emotion, what, ever it was--anger, or fear, or
dislike--has passed away, and the lovely green hue sparkles in the
glancing sunlight as before.
He lifts the window-sash; and instantly there run out on the sill two
or three minute lizards of a new kind, allied to the gecko, the common
palette-tip (_Sphoeriodactylus argus_.) It is scarcely more than two
inches long, more nimble than fleet in its movement, and not very
attractive.
In the woods he would meet with other kinds. On the trunks of the
trees he might frequently see the Venus (_Dactyloa Edwardsii_), as it
is provincially called; a lizard much like the anoles of the houses,
of a rich grass-green colour, with orange throat-disk, but much larger
and fiercer; or, in the eastern parts of the island, the great iguana
(_Cyclura lophoma_), with it dorsal crest like the teeth of a saw
running down all its back, might be seen lying out on the branches of
the trees, or playing bo-peep from a hole in the trunk; or, in the
swamps and morasses of Westmoreland, the yellow galliwasp (_Celestus
occiduus_), so much dreaded and abhorred, yet without reason, might be
observed sitting idly in the mouth of its burrow, or feeding on the
wild fruits and marshy plants that constitute its food.--_Gosse's
Naturalist's Sojourn_.
A SCENE IN NEW ENGLAND.
I leave Boston sometimes in the evening by rail, get thirty miles off,
then strike away into byways, ramble for an hour or two, and get back
to the rail. I was out yesterday, and nothing can equal the colour of
the foliage: if it was painted, it would look like fancy. In the
course of my stroll, I came upon a lake entirely surrounded with
forest, and containing, as I was informed, about four square miles of
water, studded with islands varying in size from one to twenty acres.
I would describe a point of view which enchanted me. I was on one side
of the lake, where it is about half a mile in width: about half-way
across, for the foreground of my picture, is a small island, about two
acres, covered with trees, looking as if they grew out of the lake,
with a central one of at least eighty feet high, and of the purest
orange colour. The opposite shore is of a crescent shape, with the
forest rising like an amphitheatre behind, glowing with every
imaginable colour, from the intense crimson to the pale pink, and
looking exactly like an enormous flower-garden stretching away to the
distance, and the colour so strongly reflected in the water, that it
is difficult to tell the reality from the reflection. At home in
England, I would have gone far to see such scenes; but they are here
at every turn. I enclose you some leaves, but the purity of the colour
is gone after a few hours. I am sure many valuable additions might be
made to the European stock of flowers: there are thousands of
species--some extremely beautiful; but how they are propagated, or
whether they could be transplanted, I cannot tell, being no
horticulturist. Among the millions here, one plant would be much
admired with you. It grows wild about three feet high, with long,
curiously-formed leaves, and surmounted by bunches of bright scarlet
blossoms, exactly like the geranium. In the course of my stroll, I
came upon a genuine shanty of a new settler, full of fine children.
The husband away at work--a little patch cleared for Indian corn and a
few vegetables, the sturdy trees enclosing all. Truly the pair have
their work before them, but they have likewise hope and comfort. I
chatted a little while with the wife, a genuine specimen of the
Anglo-Saxon race--clean, industrious, and hopeful: left home to avoid
being starved, and sat down here, in rude comfort, with her ruddy
children growing up about her--to be a joy and a support, instead of
the drag and vexation they would have proved at home.--_Private Letter
from an English Artist settled at Boston_.
WOMEN.
Christianity freed woman, because it opened to her the long-closed
world of spiritual knowledge. Sublime and speculative theories,
hitherto confined to the few, became, when once they were quickened by
faith, things for which thousands were eager to die. Simple women
meditated in their homes on questions which had long troubled
philosophers in the groves of academies. They knew this well; and felt
that from her who had sat at the feet of the Master, listening to the
divine teaching, down to the poorest slave who heard the tidings of
spiritual liberty, they had all become daughters of a great and
immortal faith. Of that faith women were the earliest adherents,
disciples, and martyrs. Women followed Jesus, entertained the
wandering apostles, worshipped in the catacombs, or died in the arena.
The _Acts of the Apostles_ bear record to the charity of Dorcas and
the hospitality of Lydia; and tradition has preserved the memory of
Praxedes and Pudentiana, daughters of a Roman senator, in whose house
the earliest Christian meetings were held in Rome.--_Women of
Christianity, by Julia Kavanagh_.
'WHARE'ER THERE'S A WILL THERE IS ALWAYS A WAY.'
Langsyne, when I first gaed to schule, I was glaiket,
In books and in learning nae pleasure had I;
And when for my fauts wi' the taws I was paiket,
'I canna do better,' was aye my reply.
'Deed Rab,' quo my mither, 'for daffn' and playin'
There 's nocht ye can manage by nicht or by day;
But this let me tell ye, and mind what I'm sayin'--
Whare'er there's a will there is always a way.
'Just look at our preacher, when but a bit callan,
The ills o' cauld poortith he aft had to dree,
But to better his lot the poor chiel aye was willin'--
At schule and at wark ever eident was he:
Sage books he wad read, and their truths he wad cherish,
And earnestly sprauchle up learning's steep brae;
And noo he's Mess John o' his ain native parish--
Sae whare there's a will there is always a way.
'And man, if ye saw how his manse is bedecket!
Ilk room's like a palace, it's plenished sae fine;
And then wi' the best in the land he's respecket,
And aft wi' My Lord is invited to dine.
O Rab, then, be active; frae him tak' example;
His case speaks mair powerfu' than ocht I can say;
And soon ye will find that your talents are ample;
For whare there's a will there is always a way.
'What though we are cotters?--the poorest may flourish,
And wha wadna rise wi' the glorious few?
Industry works wonders--its spirit aye nourish--
It isna the drone gathers hinney, I trew.
Then onward, my laddie! ye canna regret it;
What wrecks and what tears have been caused by delay!
If noble your wish is, press on, ye will get it!
For whare there's a will there is always a way.'
Thus spak my auld mither: ilk word seemed a sermon,
But just rather warldly, as ane micht alloo;
But, haith, it inspired me, and made me determine
To haud to the _lair_ and keep _progress_ in view.
Sae I tried ilka project instruction to gather:
When herdin' the sheep for our laird, Ringan Gray,
The Bible and Bunyan, I read 'mang the heather--
Aye whare there's a will there is always a way.
But my father he dee'd, and to help my auld mither
I noo had to struggle wi' hardship and care;
And aften I thocht I wad stick a'thegither,
But something within me said: 'Never despair!'
At last I grew bein, for I toiled late and early,
Syne to College I gaed, and was made a D.D.
And noo I'm Mess John in the Kirk o' Glenfairly--
Sae whare there's a will there is always a way.
The manse--but I shouldna wi' vainity crack o't--
Is as cozie a beil as a body could see;
Hauf-hid 'mang auld trees, wi' braw parks at the back o't,
Whare lambs, 'mang the gowans, are sporting wi' glee.
I've got a bit wife too, a rich winsome lady--
In short, I hae a' that a mortal could hae:
Sae onward, ye youths! as my auld mither said aye--
Whare'er there's a will there is always a way.
A. M'KAY.
* * * * *
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