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A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17




As we approached the capital, we were sorry to observe, from an appearance
of much stir and bustle, that we were to be received in form. Decent
clothes had been for some time a scarce commodity amongst us; and our
travelling dresses were made up of a burlesque mixture of European, Indian,
and Kamtschadale fashions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous
to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtschatka; and,
as we saw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the
commander would be at the water-side to receive us, we stopped short, at a
soldier's house, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we
sent Port, with a message to his excellency, acquainting him, that the
moment we had put off our travelling dresses, we would pay our respects to
him at his own house; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct
us. Finding, however, that he persisted in his intentions of paying us this
compliment, we lost no farther time in attiring ourselves, but made all the
haste in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I observed my
companions to be as awkward as I felt myself in making our first
salutations; bowing and scraping being marks of good breeding, that we had
now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccustomed to. The manner in
which we were received by the commander, was the most engaging that could
be conceived, and increased my mortification at finding that he had almost
entirely forgot the French language; so that the satisfaction of conversing
with him was wholly confined to Mr Webber, who spoke the German, his native
tongue.

In company with Major Behm was Captain Shmaleff, the second in command, and
another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They
conducted us to the commander's house, where we were received by his lady
with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments prepared for us.
After the first compliments were over, Mr Webber was desired to acquaint
the major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval stores,
flour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries for the ship's crews,
and at the same time to assure him, that we were sensible, from what we had
already seen of the condition of the country about Awatska Bay, we could
not expect much assistance from him in that quarter; that the impossibility
of sending heavy stores across the peninsula during the present season of
the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in
our journey; and that, long before any material change could take place, we
should be under the necessity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here
interrupted by the commander, who observed, that we did not yet know what
they were capable of doing; that, at least, it was not his business to
think of the difficulties of supplying our wants, but only to learn what
were the articles we stood in need of, and the longest time we could allow
him for procuring them. After expressing our sense of his obliging
disposition, we gave him a list of our naval stores, the number of cattle,
and the quantity of flour we were directed to purchase, and told him that
we purposed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June.

Our conversation afterward turned upon different subjects; and it will
naturally be supposed that our enquiries were principally directed to the
obtaining some information respecting our own country. Having now been
absent three years, we had flattered ourselves with the certainty of
receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being
interesting; and I cannot express the disappointment we felt, on finding
that he had no news to communicate of a much later date than that of our
departure from England.

About seven o'clock the commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our
journey, and desirous of taking some repose, begged he might conduct us to
our lodgings. It was in vain that we protested against a compliment which
we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being strangers; a
circumstance which seemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to
counterbalance every other consideration. In our way we passed by two
guard-houses, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to
Captain Gore; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent house,
which the major gave us to understand was to be our residence during our
stay. Two sentinels were posted at the doors, and, in a house adjoining,
there was a serjeant's guard. Having shewn us into our apartments, the
major took his leave, with a promise to see us the next day: and we were
left to find out at our leisure all the conveniences that he had most amply
provided for us. A soldier, called a _putpropersckack_, whose rank is
between that of a serjeant and a corporal, along with our fellow-traveller
Port, were appointed to be our male domestics; besides whom, there was a
housekeeper and a cook, who had orders to obey Port's directions in
dressing us a supper according to our own mode of cookery. We received many
civil messages in the course of the evening from the principal people of
the town, purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues by paying
their respects to us at that time, but would wait upon us in the morning.
Such well-supported politeness and attention, in a country so desolate and
uncultivated, formed a contrast exceedingly favourable to its inhabitants;
and, to finish the piece as it began, at sun-set the serjeant came with the
report of his guard to Captain Gore.

Early in the morning we received the compliments of the commander, of
Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all
honoured us with visits soon after. The two first, having sent for Port,
after we were gone to rest, and enquired of him what articles we seemed to
be most in want of on board the ships, we found them prepared to insist on
our sharing with the garrison under their command, in what little stock of
provisions they had remaining. At the same time they lamented that we had
arrived at a season of the year, when there was always the greatest
scarcity of every thing amongst them, the sloops not being yet arrived,
with their annual supply, from Okotsk.

We agreed to accept the liberality of these hospitable strangers, with the
best grace we could; but on condition that we might be made acquainted with
the price of the articles we were to be supplied with, and that Captain
Clerke should give bills to the amount upon the Victualling Office in
London. This the major positively refused; and whenever it was afterwards
urged, stopped us short, by telling us, he was certain that he could not
oblige his mistress more than in giving every assistance in his power to
her good friends and allies the English; and that it would be a particular
satisfaction to her to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, her
dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in such services as
ours; that he could not therefore act so contrary to the character of his
empress as to accept of any bills; but that to accommodate the matter, he
would take a bare attestation of the particulars with which we might be
furnished, and that this he should transmit to his court, as a certificate
of having performed his duty. I shall leave, he continued, to the two
courts all farther acknowledgments, but cannot consent to accept of any
thing of the kind alluded to.

When this matter was adjusted, he began to enquire about our private wants,
saying, he should consider himself as ill used if we had any dealings with
the merchants, or applied to any other person except himself.

In return for such singular generosity, we had little to bestow but our
admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had sent by
me a set of prints and maps, belonging to the last voyage of Captain Cook,
which he desired me to present in his name to the commander; who being an
enthusiast in every thing relating to discoveries, received it with a
satisfaction which shewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been
more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewise entrusted me with a
discretionary power of shewing him a chart of the discoveries made in the
present voyage; and as I judged that a person in his situation, and of his
turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this
sort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to ask more than a few
general questions on the subject, I made no scruple to repose in him a
confidence, of which his whole conduct shewed him to be deserving.

I had the pleasure to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he
would, and was much struck at seeing, in one view, the whole of that coast,
as well on the side of Asia as on that of America, of which his countrymen
had been so many years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect
knowledge.[19]

Excepting this mark of confidence, and the set of prints I have already
mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the least worth his
acceptance; for it scarce deserves noticing, that I prevailed on his son, a
young boy, to accept of a silver watch I happened to have about me; and I
made his little daughter very happy with two pair of ear-rings of French
paste. Besides these trifles, I left with Captain Shmaleff the thermometer
I used on my journey; and he promised me, to keep an exact register of the
temperature of the air for one year, and to transmit it to Mr Muller, with
whom he had the pleasure of being acquainted.

We dined this day at the commander's, who, studious on every occasion to
gratify our curiosity, had, besides a number of dishes dressed in our own
way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Russian and Kamtschadale
manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town and the
adjacent country. Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy plain, that
extends to the sea of Okotsk, being about forty miles long, and of a
considerable breadth. It lies on the north side of the Bolchoireka, or
great river, between the mouth of the Gottsofka and the Bistraia, which
here empty themselves into this river; and the peninsula, on which it
stands, has been separated from the continent by a large canal, the work of
the present commander; which has not only added much to its strength as a
fortress, but has made it much less liable than it was before to
inundations. Below the town the river is from six to eight feet deep, and
about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itself into the sea of Okotsk,
at the distance of twenty-two miles; where, according to Krascheninikoff,
it is capable of admitting vessels of a considerable size. There is not
corn, of any species, cultivated in this part of the country; and Major
Behm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted.
The ground was, for the most part, covered with snow; that which was free
from it appeared full of small hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I saw
about twenty or thirty cows, And the major had six stout horses. These and
their dogs are the only tame animals they possess; the necessity they are
under, in the present state of the country, of keeping great numbers of the
latter, making it impossible to bring up any cattle that are not in size
and strength a match for them. For, during the summer season, their dogs
are entirely let loose, and left to provide for themselves, which makes
them so exceedingly ravenous, that they will sometimes even attack the
bullocks.

The houses in Bolcheretsk are all of one fashion, being built of logs, and
thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, consisting of
three rooms of a considerable size, neatly papered, and which might have
been reckoned handsome, if the _talc_ with which the windows were covered,
had not given them a poor and disagreeable appearance. The town consists of
several rows of low buildings, each consisting of five or six dwellings,
connected together, with a long common passage running the length of them,
on one side of which is the kitchen and store-house, and on the other the
dwelling apartments. Besides these are barracks for the Russian soldiers
and cossacks, a well-looking church, and a court-room, and at the end of
the town a great number of _balagans_, belonging to the Kamtschadales. The
inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and six hundred. In
the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the principal
people of the town of both sexes were invited.

The next morning we applied privately to the merchant, Fedositsch, to
purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a
twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our
other transactions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's
knowledge; and we were soon after surprised to find in our house four bags
of tobacco, weighing-upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might
be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to
our sailors. At the same time they had sent us twenty loaves of fine sugar,
and as many pounds of tea, being articles they understood we were in great
want of, which they begged to be indulged in presenting to the officers.
Along with these Madame Behm had also sent a present for Captain Clerke,
consisting of fresh-butter, honey, figs, rice, and some other little things
of the same kind, attended with many wishes that, in his infirm state of
health, they might be of service to him. It was in vain we tried to oppose
this profusion of bounty, which I was really anxious to restrain, being
convinced that they were giving away, not a share, but almost the whole
stock of the garrison. The constant answer the major returned us on those
occasions was, that we had suffered a great deal, and that we must needs be
in distress. Indeed the length of time we had been out since we touched at
any known port, appeared to them so very incredible, that it required the
testimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumstances, to gain their
belief. Amongst the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related
to us this morning, and which, he said, but for our arrival, he should have
been totally at a loss to account for.

It is well known that the Tschutski are the only people of the north of
Asia who have maintained their independence, and resisted all the attempts
that have been made by the Russians to reduce them. The last expedition
against them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various
success, in the retreat of the Russian forces, and the loss of the
commanding officer. Since that time the Russians had removed their frontier
fortress from the Anadir to the Ingiga, a river that empties itself into
the northern extremity of the sea of Okotsk, and gives its name to a gulf
situated to the west of that of Penshinsk. From this fort Major Behm had
received dispatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretsk, containing
intelligence that a tribe, or party of the Tschutski, had arrived at that
place with propositions of friendship, and a voluntary offer of tribute;
that on enquiring into the cause of this unexpected alteration in their
sentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the
last summer they had been visited by two very large Russian boats; that
they had been treated by the people who were in them with the greatest
kindness, and had entered into a league of friendship and amity with them;
and that relying on this friendly disposition, they were now come to the
Russian fort in order to settle a treaty on such terms as might be
acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary history had occasioned much
speculation, both at Ingiginsk and Bolcheretsk; and, had we not furnished
them with a key to it, must have remained perfectly unintelligible. We felt
no small satisfaction in having, though accidentally, shewn the Russians,
in this instance, the only true way of collecting tribute and extending
their dominions; and in the hopes that the good understanding which this
event hath given rise to, may rescue a brave people from the future
invasions of such powerful neighbours.

We dined this day with Captain Shmaleff, and in the afternoon, in order to
vary our amusements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Russian and
Kamtschadale dancing. No description can convey an adequate idea of this
rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Russian dance was much
like those of our hornpipes, and was danced either single, or by two or
four persons at a time. Their steps were, short and quick, with the feet
scarce raised from the ground; the arms were fixed close to the sides, the
body being all the while kept upright and immovable, excepting when the
parties passed each other, at which time the hand was raised with a quick
and awkward motion. But if the Russian dance was, at the same time, both
unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtschadale joined to the latter quality the
most whimsical idea that ever entered into any people's heads. It is
intended to represent the awkward and clumsy gestures of the bear, which
these people have frequent opportunities of observing in a great variety of
situations. It will scarcely be expected that I should give a minute
description of all the strange postures which were exhibited on these
occasions; and I shall therefore only mention, that the body was always
bowed, and the knees bent, whilst the arms were used in imitating the
tricks and attitudes of that animal.

As our journey to Bolcheretsk had taken up more time than we expected, and
we were told that our return might prove still more difficult and tedious,
we were under the necessity of acquainting the commander this evening with
our intention of setting out the next day. It was not without the utmost
regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance, and were therefore most
agreeably surprised when the major told us, that if we could stay one
day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he said, made up his dispatches,
and resigned the command of Kamtschatka to his successor Captain Shmaleff,
and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotsk, which was to take
place in a few days; but that he should feel great pleasure in putting off
his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and
Paul's, that be might himself be a witness of every thing being done for us
that it was in their power to do.

In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I
was next morning, the 15th, presented by his little boy with a most
magnificent Kamtschadale dress, which shall be described in its proper
place. It was of the kind worn by the principal _Toions_ of the country on
occasions of great ceremony; and, as I was afterward told by Fedositsch,
could not have been purchased for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the
same time I had a present from his daughter of a handsome sable muff.

We afterward dined with the commander, who, in order to let us see as much
of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the customs of the country, as
our time would permit, invited the whole of the better sort of people in
the village to his house this evening. All the women appeared very
splendidly dressed after the Kamtschadale fashion. The Wives of Captain
Shmaleff and the other officers of the garrison, were prettily dressed,
half in the Siberian and half in the European mode; and Madame Behm, in
order to make the strongest contrast, had unpacked part of her baggage, and
put on a rich European dress. I was much struck with the richness and
variety of the silks which the women wore, and the singularity of their
habits. The whole was like some enchanted scene in the midst of the wildest
and most dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again consisted of
dancing and singing.

The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our
lodgings, where the first things we saw were three travelling dresses, made
after the fashion of the country, which the major had provided for us, who
came himself to our house soon after, to see all our things packed up and
properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal presents, and the
kindness of Captain Shmaleff, and many other individuals, who all begged to
throw in their mite, together with the ample stock of provisions he had
sent us for our journey, we had amassed no inconsiderable load of baggage.

Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were
invited to call on Madame Behm in our way to the boats, and take our leave
of her. Impressed, as our minds were, with sentiments of the warmest
gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met
with at Bolcheretsk, they were greatly heightened by the affecting scene
which presented itself to us on leaving our lodgings; All the soldiers and
cossacks belonging to the garrison were drawn up on one hand, and the male
inhabitants of the town, dressed out in their best clothes, on the other;
and, as soon as we came out of the house, the whole body of the people
joined in a melancholy song, which the major told us it was usual in that
country to sing on taking leave of their friends. In this manner we marched
down to the commander's house, preceded by the drums and music of the
garrison, where we were received by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies,
who were dressed in long silk cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of
different colours, which made a most magnificent appearance. After
partaking of some refreshment that was prepared for us, we went down to the
water-side, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the song with the
rest of the inhabitants; and, as soon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm,
and assured her of the grateful sense we should ever retain of the
hospitality of Bolcheretsk, we found ourselves too much affected not to
hasten into the boats with all the expedition we could. When we put off,
the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat;
and, as we were doubling a point, where, for the last time, we saw our
friendly entertainers, they took their farewell in another cheer.

We found the stream on our return so exceedingly rapid, that,
notwithstanding the cossacks and Kamtschadales used their utmost exertions,
we did not reach the first village, Opatchin, till the evening of the 17th,
which was at the rate of about twenty miles a day. We got to Natcheekin on
the 19th; and, on the 20th, we crossed the plain to Karatchin. We found the
road much better than when we had passed it before, there having been a
smart frost on the night of the 19th. On the 21st, we proceeded down the
Awatska river; and, before it was dark, got over the shoals which lie at
the entrance of the bay. During the whole course of our journey we were
much pleased with the great good-will with which the _Toions_ and their
Kamtschadales afforded us their assistance at the different _ostrogs_
through which we passed; and I could not but observe the pleasure that
appeared in their countenances on seeing the major, and their strong
expressions of sorrow, on hearing he was so soon going to leave them.

We had dispatched a messenger to Captain Clerke from Bolcheretsk, with an
account of our reception, and of the major's intention of returning with
us, at the same time apprising him of the day he might probably expect to
see us. We were therefore very well pleased to observe, as we approached
the harbour, all the boats of the two ships coming towards us, the men
clean, and the officers as well dressed as the scarcity of our clothing
would permit. The major was much struck at the robust and healthy
appearance of the boats' crews, and still more at seeing most of them
without any other covering than a shirt and trowsers, although at the very
moment it actually snowed.

As Major Behm had expressed his intentions of visiting the ships before he
landed, as soon as we arrived off the town, I desired to receive his
commands; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very
bad state of Captain Clerke's health, it might be imprudent to disturb him
at so late an hour, (it being now past nine o'clock,) he thought it, he
said, most advisable to remain that night on shore. Accordingly, after
attending him to the serjeant's house, I took my leave for the present, and
went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at
Bolcheretsk. It was with the utmost concern I found, that, in the fortnight
we had been absent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worse,
instead of reaping that advantage we flattered ourselves he might from the
repose of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was
supplied.

As soon as I had dispatched this business, I returned to the major, and the
next morning conducted him to the ships; where, on his arrival, he was
saluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of
distinction that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the
commander of one of the Russian galliots, the master of a sloop that lay in
the harbour, two merchants from Bolcheretsk, and the priest of the
neighbouring village of Paratounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the
highest respect, and whom I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, on
account of his great kindness to Captain Clerke.

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