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A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17




The argali, or wild mountain-sheep,[67] an animal, I believe, unknown in
Europe, (except in Corsica and Sardinia,) is here in great plenty. Its skin
is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of
the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full
growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in, running it rests upon
its back. These creatures are exceedingly, nimble and swift, haunt only the
most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest
rocks with an agility that is astonishing. The natives work their horns
into spoons, and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a
smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their
hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the
flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but
never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the
reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal, (for such it
is said to be,) to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab.
xiii.

I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and
mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are
a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a variety
of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour.
Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for
themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective
homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, consists
entirely of the head, entrails, and back-bones of salmon; which are put
aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but
sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are
yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that on our
journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-
nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natcheekin. It is also to be
remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but
those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied
to stakes with light leathern thongs, which, are made to stretch, and
having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so
that by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food,
they acquire both the strength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are
necessary for their future destination.

The coasts and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of
northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at
Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I
saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk) are stored with numerous flocks of wild-
ducks of various species; one kind of which, in particular, has a most
beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives _a-an-gitche_; a word
intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable,
consisting of three distinct notes, rising, at equal intervals, above each
other.[68]

There is another species, called the mountain-duck,[69] which, Steller
says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of
extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water-
fowl, which, from their size, seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.

In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a
prodigious size; but of what species they were I cannot pretend to
determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle,
with a white head, tail, and leg;[70] of which the eaglets are as white as
snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and
the lead, or stone-coloured eagle,[71] which is the most common; and
probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard
kind, there are great numbers.

This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse,
or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their
entertainments, generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not
remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl
with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents
we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and which
sometimes consisted of twenty brace.

We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with
which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were at this time in pursuit of
the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers.
Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be
found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.

The sea-otters[72] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka
Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great
plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here;
but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where
they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they
have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile
Islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a
superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.

We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering's Island, scarce a sea-otter is
now to be found; though it appears from Muller,[73] that in his time they
were exceedingly plentiful.

The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea-
animals, which are said to frequent these coasts; the reason why we saw no
other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.

Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude
them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr Pennant has a work,
almost ready for publication, entitled, "Arctic Zoology;" in which the
learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this
peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his
Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with reference to his work, and permission to
insert it. It will be found at the end of this section; and I feel myself
extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him
with, what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view
of Kamtschadale zoology.[74]

Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence
hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula; who, in general, must
never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from
grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some
good and nourishing roots, and every part of the country abounds in
berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of
the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the
putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much
greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other
countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only
domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.

Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotzk, and on the side of
the eastern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of uses. Of
the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for
various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat is carefully
stored, both for kitchen use, and for their lamps. The whiskers are found
to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes;
they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and with the
under-jaw-bones their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into
knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made
of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The
intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders and it is in these
their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both
strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no
part of the whale which here does not find its use.

From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught
great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of
three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged
out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm,
and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like
turbot, and streaked with dark-brown lines, running from the head toward
the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They
approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had
entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were
beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned,
that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a
great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June large
quantities of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewise
salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much
resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.

Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the
salmon-fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter
provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on
this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the
natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend
the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are
seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each
other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred,
but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to
regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never
found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.

The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about
the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales
_Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally
about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their
average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but
straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects
they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with
extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by
their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them
about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this
circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were
presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand
that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninnikoff
relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first
fish they took with great rejoicings, and a variety of superstitious
ceremonies; and that, after the Russians became their masters, it was for a
long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first
should belong. The season for fishing for this species lasts from the
middle of May till the end of June.

The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen
pounds. They are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to
collect in the bays and at the mouths of the rivers the beginning of June;
from, which time till the end of September, they are caught in great
quantities, both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water
falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers to
their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay
of Awatska is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large stone at
the water's edge; they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a
right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and
run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the shore. In this
position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and
keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course
close in with the shore, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in
the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when
they shoot the canoe to shore in a direct line, and never fail of inclosing
their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who haul with
facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a
dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hauling,
but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not
less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across,
and haul another down the stream to it.

The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all
those that I saw, abound with fish that have very much the resemblance of
small salmon, and are from four to six pounds weight. I could not
understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for
them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears
and dogs during the summer; and, if I might judge from the quantity of
bones to be seen upon, the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.

The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little
of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first
taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former
of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish,
and sold, when we were at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, at the rate of one
hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten
whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes,
that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones are hung
up, and dried for winter provision for the dogs.


_List of Animals found in Kamtschadale, communicated by Mr Pennant_.[75]


*Argali, wild sheep, Arct. _Capra ammon_, Lin. Syst. 97
Zool. vol. i. p. 12.
Ibex, _or_ wild goat 16 _Capra ibex_. 90
*Rein 22 _Cervus tarandus_. 93
*Wolf 38 _Canis lupus_. 53
*Dog 40
*Arctic fox 42 _Canis lagopus_. 59
*European fox 45 _Canis vulpes_. 59
* a. black 46
b. cross ib.
*Polar bear, in the Frozen Sea _Ursus Arctos_. 69
only 55
*Bear 57 _Ursus arctos_.
*Wolverene 66 _Ursus luscus_. 71
*Common weasel 75 _Mustela nivalis_. 69
*Stoat, _or_ ermine ib. _Mustela erminea_. 68
*Sable 79 _Mustela zibellina_. 68
Common otter 86 _Mustela lutra_. 66
*Sea otter 88 _Mustela lutris_. 66
*Varying hare 94 _Lepus timidus_.
Alpine hare 97
*Earless marmot 113 _Mus citellus_. 113
Bobak marmot 115
Water rat 130 _Mus amphibius_. 82
Common mouse 131 _Mus Musculus_. 83
OEconomic mouse 134
Red mouse 136
Ichelag mouse 138
Foetid shrew 139 _Sorex araneus_. 74
*Walrus. Icy sea 144 _Trichecus rosmarus_. 49
*Common seal 151 _Phoca vitulina_ 56
Great seal 159
Leporine seal 161
Harp seal 163
Rubbon seal. Kurile Isles 165
Ursine seal ib. _Phoca ursina_ 58
Leonine seal 172
*Whale-tailed manati 177


There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka till they were introduced by
the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are
aboriginal.


BIRDS.


LAND BIRDS.


I. Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194 _Falco ossifragus_ ..... 124
*Cinereous eagle ...... 2l4 _Vultur albiulla_ ...... 123
*White-headed eagle ... 196 _Falco leucocephalus_ .. ib.
Crying eagle ......... 215 (Latham, I.38.)
Osprey ............... 199 _Falco haliaetus_ ....... 129
Peregrine falcon ..... 202 (Latham, I.73.[76])
Goshawk .............. 204 _Falco palumbarius_..... 130
II. Eagle owl ............ 228 _Strix bubo_ ........... 131
Snowy owl ............ 233 _Strix nyctea_.......... 132
III Raven ................ 246 _Corvus corax_.......... 155
Magpye ............... 147 _Corvus pica_ .......... 157
Nutcracker ........... 252 _Corvus caryocatactes_.. ib.
IV. Cuckoo ............... 266 _Cuculus canorus_ ...... 168
V. Wryneck .............. 267 _Jynx torquilla_ ....... 172
VI. Nuthatch ............. 281 _Sitta Europea_ ....... 177
VII. White grous .......... 308 _Tetrao lagopus_ ....... 274
Wood grous ........... 312 _Tetrao urogallus_ ..... 273
VIII. Water ouzel .......... 332 _Sturnus cinclus_
IX. Fieldfare ............ 340 _Turdus pilaris_ ...... 291
Redwing thrush ....... 341 _Turdus iliacus_ ...... 291
Kamtschatkan ......... 343 (Latham, III. 23.)
X. Greenfinch ........... 353 _Loxia chloris_ ........ 304
XI. Golden bunting ....... 367 (Latham, II. 201.)
XII. Lesser red-headed \
linnet .............. 379/ (Latham, II. 305.)
XIII. Dun flycatcher ....... 390 (Latham, II. 351.)
XIV. Sky-lark ............. 394A. _Alauda arsensis_ ..... 287
Wood-lark ............ 395B. _Alauda arborea_ ...... ib.
XV. White wagtail ........ 396E. _Motacilla alba_ ...... 331
Yellow wagtail ....... ib.F. _Motacilla flava_ ..... ib.
Tschutski wagtail .... 397H. (Latham, IV. 403.)
XVI. Yellow wren .......... 413 _Motacilla trochilus_. 338
Redstart ............. 416 _Motacilla phaenicurus_. 335
Longbilled ........... 420
Stapazina ............ 421 _Motacilla stapazina_. 331
Awatska .............. 422
XVII. Marsh titmouse ....... 427 _Paras palustris_ ..... 341
XVIII.Chimney swallow ...... 429 _Hirundo rustica_ ..... 343
Martin ............... 430 _Hirundo urbica_ ..... 344
Sand martin .......... ib. _Hirundo riparia_ .... ib.
XIX. European goatsucker ... 437 _Caprimulgus Europeus_. 346


WATER FOWL.


_Cloven-footed Water Fowl_.


Crane P.453 A. _Ardeagrus_ 334
Curlew P.462 A. _Scolopax arquata_ 242
Whimbrel P.462 B. _Scolopax phaeopus_ 243
Common sandpiper No 388 _Tringa hypoleucos_ 250
Gambet No 394 _Tringa gambetta_ 248
Golden plover No 399 _Charadrius pluvialis_ 254
Pied oyster-catcher No _Haematopus ostralegus_ 257


_With pinnated Feet_.


Plain phalarope.


_With webbed Feet_.


Wandering albatross No 423 _Diomedea exulans_ 214
Razor-bill hawk No 425 _Alca torda_ 210
Puffin No 427 _Alca arctica_ 211
Antient No 430
Pygmy No 431
Tufted No 432
Parroquet No 433
Crested No 434
Dusky No 435
Foolish guillemot No 436 _Colymbus troille_ 220
Black guillemot No 437 _Colymbus grylle_. ib.
Marbled guillemot No 438
Imber diver No 440 _Colymbus immer_ 222
Speckled diver No 441
Red-throated diver No 443 _Colymbus septentrionalis_ 220
Great tern No 448 _Sterna hirundo_.
Kamtschatkan P.525 A.
Black-headed gull No 455 _Larus ridibundus_ 225
Kittiwake gull No 456 _Larus rissa_ 224
Ivory gull No 457
Arctic gull No 459
Tarrock P.533D._Larus tridactylus_. ib.
Red-legged P.533 E.
Fulmar petrel No 464 _Procellaria glacialis_ 213
Stormy petrel No 464 _Procellaria pelagica_ 212
Kurile petrel P.536 A.
Blue petrel.[77] Preface.
Goosander merganser No 465 _Mergus merganser_ 208
Smew No 468 _Mergus albellus_ 209
Whistling swan No 469 _Anas Cygnus ferus_ 194 A.
Great goose P.570
Chinese goose P.571 _Anas cygnoides_ 194 B.
Snow goose No 477
Brent goose No 478 _Anas bernicla_ 198
Eider duck No 480 _Anas molitsima_ ib.
Black duck No 483 _Anas spectabilis_ 195
Velvet duck No 481 _Anas fusca_ 196
Shoveler No 485 _Anas clypeata_ 200
Golden eye No 486 _Anas clangula_ 201
Harlequin No 490 _Anas histrionica_ 204
Mallard No 494 _Anas boschas_ 205
* Western No 497
Pintail No 500 _Anas acuta_ 202
* Longtailed No 501 _Anas glacialis_ 203
Morillon P.573 F. _Anas glaucion_ 201
Shieldrake P.572 D. _Anas tadorna_ 195
Tufted P.573 G. _Anas fuligula_ 207
Falcated P.574 I.
Garganey P.576 O. _Anas querquedula_ 263
Teal P.577 P. _Anas crecia_ 204
Corvorant No 509 _Pelecanus carbo_ 216
Violet corvorant P.584 B.
Red-faced corvorant P.584 C.


[42] Some doubt may be entertained of the propriety with which Captain King
has occupied so large a portion of his volume as two chapters, or
sections, with a subject, respecting which it is most certain, his
knowledge must have resulted from almost any thing else than his own
personal observation. There is force in the objection. But it must be
allowed on the other hand, that there was no inconsiderable inducement
to supply the public with a tolerable share of information concerning
a country which, distant and uncultivated as it was, seemed
notwithstanding to be entitled to more regard than had usually been
paid to it. Steller's work, of which he has properly availed himself,
had been but recently published, viz. in 1774, and in all probability
had not hitherto occupied much attention. The earlier accounts,
whether published separately as that of Krascheninnikof, an English
translation of which appeared at Gloucester in 1764, or contained in
other works, as an article in Pallas's New Memoirs of the North, were
perhaps still less consulted. Captain King's description, therefore,
supposing the subject in any degree entitled to notice, was neither
unnecessary nor unprofitable. It has been generally employed as the
basis of the subsequent accounts which have been inserted in
gazetteers and treatises of geography. But there have been several
works, entitled to the consideration of being original, published
since its appearance, from which some additions might be obtained, or
which point out reasons for correction,--not so much however, it is
proper to remark, because of errors committed by Captain K., as
because of alterations occurred in the country since his time. A few
of these, unfortunately not much for the better, have been stated, or
will be so, on the authority of one of the last visitors to
Kamtschatka, Captain Krusenstern. This gentleman, however, it ought to
be understood, admits the general accuracy of the previous accounts
given by Krascheninnikof, Steller, and King, and therefore, avoiding
repetition, restricts himself almost entirely to the mention of the
most material changes which have taken place during the last thirty
years. This will readily be allowed enough for our present purpose,
exclusive of any attention to the other productions which have treated
of Kamtschatka, in the intermediate period.--E.

[43] It is in the vicinity of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Krusenstern
allows, that the climate is so unfavourable, and the soil, in
consequence, so ungrateful. But he specifies reasons for believing that
the middle provinces of Kamtschatska are equal, if not superior, to
many in European Russia, in respect of natural advantages, though
certainly far less indebted to the hand of man. He tells us, however,
that in the interior, several species of corn are brought to
perfection and many kinds of vegetables are cultivated. In his opinion
the climate is not so bad as it has generally been represented, and he
is convinced that the indolence of the inhabitants, and the incapacity
occasioned by the immoderate use of spirits, are far more in fault as
to the deficiency or unproductiveness of the soil, than the frequent
fogs which are so much complained of, or any other unkindness on the
part of nature. In proof of this, he maintains that the officers who
are garrisoned here, have laid out gardens for themselves, which, by
proper care, yield almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the
table, and that too in quantities beyond the usual demand. Besides the
materially efficient checks already mentioned, this gentleman
specifies a very unreasonable notion, pretty commonly entertained,
which has operated extensively in limiting the productions of the
earth, and from which not even the officers who had been successful in
their particular pursuits were altogether exempt. The notion to which
he alludes is, that it would be useless to commence cultivating their
gardens before the month of July, although, to his certain knowledge,
June was _as beautiful as it can possibly be in the most favoured
climate_, and though, according to Captain King, wild garlic, cellery,
and nettles, were gathered for his crew in the month of May. The
inference from this last circumstance seems obviously correct. "If,"
says Krusenstern, "in the middle of May so much is already produced
without any cultivation at all, I think I do not assert too much in
saying they ought to begin to lay out their gardens in this month."
This conclusion appears still more importantly authoritative from what
he relates on his own experience. "I passed all the summer months in
Kamtschatka," says he, "during the two years of my absence; that is to
say, the whole of June, a part of July, and the whole of August and
September, and can affirm with confidence, that, in these four months,
there are just as many pleasant cheerful days as in any other place
under the same latitude." On the whole then, one may readily concur in
sentiment with this intelligent officer, that did the government adopt
very different measures from those which have hitherto been in force,
and were certain practices and prejudices abolished, Kamtschatka might
afford as good and cheap living as many other provinces of the Russian
empire. To most readers, it is probable, this will seem no very mighty
recommendation. Relatively, however, to the person who makes it, and
to those to whom it is addressed, it must be allowed to possess a
virtue of no common magnitude or efficacy. Perhaps it is necessary to
state for the credit of this writer, that some of the immediately
following remarks of Captain King, much as they seem at first sight to
oppose one of his opinions above approved of, will be found on
attentive consideration perfectly reconcileable with them, more
particularly if it be remembered that in other countries where much
snow falls during the winter, nothing is more usual than to find, on
its disappearance, that the earth is covered with a rich and healthy
vegetation which a thick coating of that substance, known to be a bad
conductor of heat, had preserved from the rigors of the season.--E.

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