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A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 11 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 11




On the 21st December, being in lat. 40 deg.. S. they were assailed by a
hurricane, attended with thunder and lightning, during which storm
the Tienhoven parted company, and did not rejoin till three months
afterwards. The extreme violence of this hurricane only lasted about
four hours, during which they every moment expected to have been
swallowed up by the waves, which ran mountain-high. These hurricanes
are extremely dangerous, and are far more frequent in the American
seas than in the East Indies. They usually happen at that season of
the year when the west monsoon reigns, which is from the 20th July to
the 15th October, for which reason ships usually remain then in port
till they think the danger is over. Yet as storms of this kind are not
exactly periodical, ships that trust to such calculations are often
caught, as there are some years in which there are no hurricanes, and
others in which they are more frequent and violent, and at unusual
periods. The ordinary, or at least the surest sign of an approaching
hurricane, is very fair weather, and so dead a calm that not even a
wrinkle is to be seen on the surface of the sea. A very dark cloud is
then seen to rise in the air, not larger than a man's hand, and in a
very little time the whole sky becomes overcast. The wind then begins
to blow from the west, and in a short space of time, whirls round the
compass, swelling the sea to a dreadful height; and as the wind blows
now on one side and then on the other, the contrary waves beat so
forcibly on the ships that they seldom escape foundering or shipwreck.
On first perceiving the before-mentioned small cloud, the best thing
a ship can do is to stand out to sea. It is remarkable that the
hurricanes are less frequent as we approach the higher latitudes in
either hemisphere, so that they are not to be feared beyond the lat.
of 55 deg. either S. or N. It is also remarked, that hurricanes rarely
happen in the middle of the wide ocean, but chiefly on the coasts of
such countries as abound with minerals, and off the mouths of large
rivers. Another surprising phenomenon at sea is what is called a
whirlwind water-spout, or syphon, which often carries up high into
the air whatever comes within the circle of its force, as fish,
grasshoppers, and other things, where they appear like a thick vapour
or cloud. The English fire at a water-spout or whirlwind, and often
succeed in stopping its progress; the circular motion ceasing, and all
that it had taken up falling immediately down, when the sea becomes
presently calm.

On the cessation of the hurricane, the commodore and his remaining
consort, the African galley, continued their course to the S.S.W. till
in the height of the Straits of Magellan. They here fell in with an
island of near 200 leagues in circumference, and about 14 leagues from
the mainland of America, and seeing no smoke, nor any boat, or other
kind of embarkation, they concluded that it was uninhabited. The west
coast of this island was discovered by a French privateer, and named
the Island of St Lewis; but being seen afterwards by the Dutch, who
fancied its many capes to be distinct islands, they called it _New
Islands_. Considering that, if ever it should be inhabited, its
inhabitants would be the antipodes of the Dutch, Roggewein gave it the
name of _Belgia Australis_. It is in the lat. of 52 deg. S. and long. of
95 deg. W.[1]

[Footnote 1: There is not the smallest doubt that the text refers
to the Falkland islands or Malouines, which consist of two principal
islands, called West and East Islands, besides a number of islets,
about 360 English miles from the continent of South America. The
centre of the west, or principal island, is in lat. 51 deg. 25' S. and
long. 60 deg. W. from Greenwich.--E.]

The land appeared extremely beautiful and very fertile, being
chequered with mountains and vallies, all of which were cloathed with
fine straight trees. The verdure of the meadows, and freshness of the
woods, afforded a delightful prospect, insomuch that all the people
believed they should have found abundance of excellent fruits. But the
commodore would not delay by permitting them to land, being anxious
to get round Cape Horn, and chose therefore to defer a thorough
examination of this new country till his return from discovering the
southern continent and islands: This, however reasonable, proved vain
in the sequel, as he was forced to return with his squadron by the
East Indies; and this fine island, therefore, is likely to continue in
a great measure unknown.

Quitting this island, they made for the Straits of Magellan, in order
to wait a wind favourable for their navigation, which took place in a
few days: for, if it had continued to blow from the west, they could
not possibly have got into the South Seas. They now resolved to
attempt the Straits of Le Maire, as infinitely more commodious than
the Strait of Magellan, in which latter the sea has but small depth,
and the meeting of the north and south currents occasion continual
rough seas. The bottom also of the Straits of Magellan is rocky,
affording no good anchorage; and the flows of winds from the mountains
on both sides are apt to endanger all ships that endeavour to pass
through these perilous straits. Having now a fair wind, they continued
their course to the south for the Straits of Le Maire, seeing on their
way abundance of whales and other large fish of that kind. Among the
rest, they were followed for a whole month by that kind of fish which
is called the _Sea Devil_ by the Dutch sailors, which they took the
utmost pains to catch, but to no purpose. It has a large head, a thick
short body, and a very long tail, like that which painters bestow on
the dragon.

Arriving in the lat. of 55 deg. S. they soon after saw State Island, or
Staten-land, which forms one side of the Straits of Luttaire. The
fury of the waves, and the clashing of contending currents, gave such
terrible shocks to their vessels, that they expected every moment
their yards should have been broken, and their masts to come by the
board. They would gladly have come to anchor, especially on finding
the bottom to be good, but the weather and the sea were so rough that
they durst not. They passed through the straits, which are about ten
leagues long, by six over, with a swiftness not to be expressed, owing
to the force and rapidity of the current. After getting through, this
current, together with the westerly winds, carried them a great way
from the coast of America; and, that they might be sure to sail free
of Cape Horn, they sailed as high as the lat. of 62 deg. 30' S. For three
weeks together, they sustained the most dreadful gusts of a furious
west wind, accompanied with hail and snow, and the most piercing
frost. While enveloped in thick mists, they were apprehensive of being
driven by the extreme violence of the winds upon mountains of ice,
where they must inevitably have perished.

Whenever the weather was in any degree clear or serene, they had
scarcely any night; for, being in the middle of January, 1722, the
summer was then in its height, and the days at their utmost length.

These mountains of ice, of which they were so much afraid, are certain
proofs that the southern countries extend quite to the pole, as well
as those under the north; for, without question, these vast hills of
ice cannot be produced in the sea, nor formed by the common force of
cold. It must therefore he concluded, that they are occasioned by the
sharp piercing winds blowing out of the mouths of large rivers.[2] It
is no less certain, that the currents discerned in this ocean must all
proceed from the mouths of large rivers, which, rolling down from
a high continent, fall with such impetuosity into the sea, as to
preserve a great part of their force long after they have entered
it.[3] The great quantity of birds seen here was an additional proof
that land was not far off. It may be asked, whether this land be
inhabited or not? For my part I believe it is. It may be again asked,
How men should live in such a climate, in the lat. of 70 deg. S. where the
winter is so very long, the summer so short, and where they must be
involved for so great a portion of the year in perpetual night? To
this I answer, That such as dwell there come only in the fine season
in order to fish, and retire on the approach of winter, as is done by
many of the inhabitants of Russia and of Davis Straits, who, when they
have provided themselves with fish on the coasts of a frozen climate,
retire farther inland, and eat in their cabins during the winter
the fish they have caught in the summer. If the people who inhabit
Greenland and Davis Straits are to be believed, the country is
inhabited even as high as 70 deg. N. both winter and summer; and what is
practicable in one country, cannot justly be reputed impracticable
when supposed in another.[4]

[Footnote 2: This is quite erroneous, as it is now well known that
the sea water freezes, when reduced to a sufficient degree of cold,
considerably lower than what is requisite for freezing fresh water. On
this occasion, the salt precipitates from the freezing water, and the
ice of sea water is sufficiently fresh for use when melted, if the
first running be thrown away, which often contains salt, either
adhering to the surface, or contained in cells.--E.]

[Footnote 3: This is poor reasoning to support a preconceived theory
of a southern continent, and might easily have been answered by
themselves, as the prodigious current which set them through the
Straits of Le Maire with such rapidity, could not have originated from
any such cause. Currents are well known to be occasioned by the
tides, the diurnal revolution of the earth, and by prevailing winds,
influenced and directed by the bendings of coasts, the interposition
of islands, and the position of straits. No such currents could
possibly come from rivers in an austral land, locked up in ever-during
frost, should any such land exist.--E.]

[Footnote 4: It might be asked, whence are these fishers to come?
Not surely from among the miserable inhabitants of Terra del Fuego.
A miserable hypothesis is thus often obstinately defended by wretched
arguments.--E.]

Being driven 500 leagues from the continent by the contrary winds, the
commodore now believed that he was beyond Cape Horn to the westwards,
and steered therefore N.E. by N. in order to fall in with the coast of
Chili. On the 10th March, being in lat. 37 deg. 30' S. they discovered
the coast of Chili to their great joy, and anchored soon after on
the coast of the island of Mocha, which is three leagues from the
continent.[5] They were in hopes of finding on this island at least a
part of the refreshments of which they were in want, especially fresh
meat and vegetables, but were disappointed, by finding the island
entirely abandoned, all its inhabitants having removed to the main
land. They saw, however, in the island a multitude of horses and
birds, and found some dogs in two cabins near the shore. They also
discovered the wreck of a Spanish ship, from which they supposed the
dogs had got on shore. The horses were supposed to have been left here
to graze, and that the owners came at certain times from the main to
take them, as wanted. They here killed abundance of geese and ducks;
and finding the coast extremely rocky, and having no safe place of
anchorage, they resolved to put to sea. In a council of the officers,
it was determined to continue for some time longer on the coast of
Chili, in hopes of meeting with some port in which they could
safely anchor, in order to get some refreshments; but perceiving the
Spaniards to be every where on their guard, they steered W.N.W.
for the island of Juan Fernandez, which they reckoned to be at the
distance of ninety leagues in that direction. Although the coast of
Chili appears to be enormously high when seen from a distance, they
discovered, by sailing along shore, that it was not higher than the
coast of England, and that they had been deceived by the enormous
height of the inland mountains, the tops of which are hid in the
clouds, and cloathed in perpetual snow.

[Footnote 5: Mocha is in lat. 36 deg. 20' S. and about 20 miles from the
coast of Chili.--E.]

Having a favourable wind, they made way at a great rate, and got sight
of the island of Juan Fernandez, on the fourth day after leaving the
coast of Chili, but could not get to anchor that day in the road,
owing to its falling calm. Next day, when ready to go in, they were
astonished by seeing a ship riding at anchor, which they conjectured
to be either a Spanish ship of force or a French interloper, but at
last concluded to be a pirate. While consulting what to do, they saw
the boat belonging to the ship coming towards them, carrying a Spanish
flag, on which they began to prepare for an engagement, but were
astonished beyond measure, on its nearer approach, to find that it
belonged to their consort the Tienhoven, which they concluded had
foundered. Captain Bowman was himself on board the boat, and shewed
how well he had followed his instructions, as, by the commodore's
orders in case of separation, this was to be the first place of
rendezvous; whence, after cruizing six weeks, they were to repair
to lat. 28 deg. S. and cruize there a similar time: But, in case of not
meeting the commodore in either of these places, they were then to
open their sealed instructions, and follow them exactly. As soon as
Captain Bowman was on board the commodore, he made a signal agreed
on to his own ship, to acquaint them that the two ships were their
consorts, After this, the Eagle and African entered the harbour.

When leisure permitted, Captain Bowman gave an account of the dangers
he had encountered in passing the Straits of Magellan: That he had met
with many storms on the coast of America, and that his ship was in a
very bad condition, having only arrived at Juan Fernandez the evening
before his consorts, both of which he believed had been lost in
the hurricane at the time of their separation. The three captains
afterwards dined together very cheerfully in the Tienhoven, where they
recounted and reciprocally commiserated their past misfortunes, and
rejoiced at their present happy meeting. As it still continued a dead
calm, they were unable to come to anchor at the place intended, but
they next day got close beside the Tienhoven, anchoring in forty
fathoms, within musket-shot of the shore. The sick were now landed,
and proper persons sent ashore along with them to construct cabins
or huts for their accommodation; and to search for provisions and
refreshments.

According to the author of this voyage, the island of Juan Fernandez
is one of the finest and best situated in the world, having a
pleasant, wholesome, and temperate climate, fit to restore health to
the sick, and to give a constant flow of spirits to those who are
in health, which this author personally experienced, having here
recovered from a complication of disorders to perfect health. The
hills are covered with tall trees of various kinds, fit for all kinds
of uses; and the vallies are fertile, and able to produce all the
necessaries of life with very little cultivation. It abounds with
small streams and brooks, the banks of which are covered with
wholesome giants; and the waters which run down from the mountains,
though not in the least disagreeable to the taste, or injurious to
health, are so impregnated with some mineral particles, that they
never corrupt. On the east side of the bay in which the Dutch ships
anchored, there are three mountains, the middlemost of which resembles
the Table Mountains at the Cape of Good Hope. Behind these there
are many other mountains which rise to a prodigious height, and are
generally covered by very thick mist, especially in the mornings and
evenings, whence I am apt to suspect that these mountains may contain
rich mines. To give a just idea of the island in few words, it
resembles in all respects the country at the Cape of Good Hope.

This author also mentions the sea-lions and seals of other writers,
and adds, that there are sea-cows also of enormous size, some weighing
near half a ton. He also mentions the abundance and excellence of the
fish, of which the Dutch cured many thousands during their short stay,
which proved extraordinarily good, and were of great service during
the rest of the voyage. He mentions goats also on the island in
abundance, but says the Dutch were unable to catch them, and at a loss
how to get at their bodies when shot; but they were frightened from
this sport by an unlucky accident which happened to the steward of one
of the ships, soon after their arrival, who, rambling one evening in
the mountains, fell suddenly from the top of a rock and was dashed to
pieces. They found here the remains of a wreck, supposed by them to
have been of a Spanish ship; but it was more probably the vestiges of
the Speedwell, lost a year before, and from which, by diving, some of
the sailors recovered several pieces of silver plate.

Having attentively considered the advantageous situation and many
conveniences of this island, Roggewein conceived the design of
settling on it, as the most proper place that could be thought of
for ships bound, as he was, for the _Terra Australis_, or southern
islands, and was the more encouraged in this design by considering
the fertility of the island, which could not fail to afford sufficient
subsistence for six hundred families at least. He postponed this,
however, as also the settlement of _Belgia Australis_, or Falkland
islands, till his proposed return, owing to which they never were
settled. A settlement at the latter might have afforded a proper place
for ships to careen and refit at, and to procure wood and water, after
the long voyage from Europe, before entering the Straits of Magellan,
and Juan Fernandez would have afforded every convenience for repairing
any injuries that might have been sustained in passing through these
straits, or going round Cape Horn. Whatever nation may revive and
prosecute this plan, will certainly acquire in a few years as rich and
profitable a commerce as is now possessed by the Spaniards with Mexico
and Peru, or the Portuguese with Brazil.[6]

[Footnote 6: Britain once tried a settlement at Falkland islands, and
had nearly gone to war with Spain on the occasion; and there can be no
doubt that Spain could never have submitted to the settlement of Juan
Fernandez by any other power. There is now a fort and small garrison
kept in that island.--E]



SECTION IV.

_Continuation of the Voyage from Juan Fernandez till the Shipwreck of
the African Galley._

On leaving Juan Fernandez, Roggewein proposed to visit that part of
the southern lands which was reported to have been discovered by Davis
in 1680.[1] As the Dutch author of this voyage is rather dark on this
subject, I shall here insert Mr Wafer's account of this discovery, as
it is very short. Wafer was a man of sense and knowledge, who sailed
along with Davis when this discovery was made.

[Footnote 1: We have omitted a long, inconclusive, and uninteresting
discussion about the climate and productions of the proposed
discovery, the _Terra Australis_, which still remains _incognito_, or
rather has been clearly shewn to have no existence.--E.]

"We steered from the Gallapagos island S. by E. 1/2 E. until we came
into the lat. of 27 deg. 20' S. when we fell in with a low sandy island,
and heard a great roaring noise right a-head of the ship, like that
of the sea beating on the shore. It being some hours before day, and
fearing to fall foul of the shore, the ship put about, and plied off
and on till next morning, and then stood in for the land, which
proved to be a small flat island, not surrounded by any rocks. To the
westwards, about twelve leagues by estimation, we saw a range of high
land which we took to be islands, as there were several partitions
in the prospect, and this land seemed to extend fourteen or sixteen
leagues. There came great flocks of fowls from that direction; and I
and more of the men would have made this land and gone on shore there,
but the captain would not consent. The small island bears 500 leagues
from Copaipo almost due W. and from the Gallapagos 600 leagues."[2]

[Footnote 2: There can be no doubt that the small low flat island was
Easter island, in lat. 27 deg. 20' S. long. 110 deg. 10' W. Its distance from
Copaipo, almost due W. is almost exactly 40 deg. or 800 marine leagues.
The range of high land seen to the westwards, could be nothing but a
fog bank, so that Roggewein set out from Juan Fernandez in search of a
nonentity.--E.]

In prosecuting his voyage to the westwards, the first land seen by
Roggewein was the lesser island of Juan Fernandez, otherwise called
Massa-fuero, about ninety-five English miles direct west. This
appeared lower and less fertile from a distance, but they had not an
opportunity of landing. Having the benefit of a S.E. trade-wind, they
soon arrived in lat. 28 deg. S. and the longitude of 251 deg. E. where they
expected to have fallen in with the land seen by Davis, but no such
land was to be found. Continuing their voyage to the westwards, and
attended by a vast quantity of birds, they arrived on the coast of a
small island about sixteen leagues in extent, which they fell in with
on the 14th April, 1722, being Easter-day, and called it therefore
_Pascha_, or _Easter_ Island.

The African galley being the smallest ship, was sent in first to
examine this new discovery, and reported that it seemed to be very
fertile and well peopled, as abundance of smoke was to be seen in all
parts of the island. Next day, while looking out for a port, and when
about two miles from the shore, an Indian came off to the ships in a
canoe, who came readily on board and was well received. Being naked,
he was first presented with a piece of cloth to cover him, and they
gave him afterwards pieces of coral, beads, and other toys, all of
which he hung about his neck, together with a dried fish. His body was
painted all over with a variety of figures, through which the
natural colour of his skin appeared to be dark brown. His ears were
excessively large and long, hanging down to his shoulders, occasioned
doubtless by wearing large heavy ear-rings; a thing also practised
by the natives of Malabar. He was tall, well-made, robust and of a
pleasing countenance, and brisk and active in his manners, appearing
to be very merry by his gestures and way of speaking. They gave him
victuals, of which he eat heartily, but could not be prevailed on to
use a knife and fork; and when offered a glass of wine threw it away
to their great surprise, afraid of being poisoned, or offended by
the smell of strong liquor, to which he was unaccustomed. He was then
dressed from head to foot, and had a hat put on his head, with which
he did not seem at all pleased, but cut a very awkward figure, and
seemed uneasy. The music was then ordered to play, with which he
seemed much pleased, and when taken by the hand would leap and dance.
Finding it impossible to bring the ships to anchor that day, they
sent off the Indian, allowing him to keep all he had got in order to
encourage the rest to come on board. But, what was really surprising,
he had no mind to go away, and looked at the Dutch with regret, held
up his hands towards his native island, and cried in a loud voice
several times _Odorega!_ making appear by signs that he would much
rather have staid, and they had much ado to get him into his canoe.
They afterwards imagined he called upon his gods, as they saw
abundance of idols erected on the coast when they landed.[3]

[Footnote 3: It will be afterwards seen in the modern
circumnavigations, that there are several gigantic statues, having
a distant resemblance to the human figure, on this island, which are
perhaps alluded to in the text.--E.]


Next morning at day-break, the ships entered a cove or bay on the S.E.
side of the island, when _many thousands_[4] of the inhabitants came
down to meet them, bringing with them vast quantities of fowls and
roots; and many of them brought these provisions on board, while
the rest ran backwards and forwards on the shore, like so many wild
beasts. As the ships drew near, the islanders crowded down to the
shore to get a better view of them, and at the same time lighted
fires, and made offerings to their idols, probably to implore their
protection against the strangers. All that day the Dutch spent in
getting into the bay and mooring their ships. Next morning very early,
the islanders were observed prostrating themselves before their idols
towards the rising sun, and making burnt offerings. While preparations
were making for landing, the friendly native who had been before on
board came a second time, accompanied by many others, who had their
canoes loaded with living fowls and roots cooked after their manner,
as if to make themselves welcome. Among this troop of islanders there
was one man perfectly white, having round pendents in his ears as big
as a man's fist. He had a grave decent air, and was supposed to be a
priest. By some accident, one of the islanders was shot dead in his
canoe by a musket, which threw the whole into prodigious confusion,
most of them leaping into the sea in order to get the sooner ashore;
while the rest who remained in their canoes paddled away with all
their might.

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