A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18)

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[Footnote 19: Ulloa says, that the chart places this island sixty
leagues from the coast of Brazil; and that the Portuguese pilots, who
often make the voyage, judge it to be eighty leagues; but, by taking the
mean between the two opinions, the distance may be fixed at seventy
leagues.]

On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we crossed the equator
in the longitude of 32 deg. 14' W. We had fresh gales at E.S.E., blowing in
squalls, attended by showers of rain, that continued at certain
intervals, till noon the next day, after which we had twenty-four hours
fair weather.

At noon on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3 deg. 49' N., longitude 31 deg.
47' W., the wind became variable, between the N.E. and S.; and we had
light airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard showers of rain, and
for the most part dark gloomy weather, which continued till the evening
of the 15th, when, in the latitude of 5 deg. 47' N., longitude 31 deg. W., we
had three calm days, in which time we did not advance above ten or
twelve leagues to the north. We had fair weather and rain by turns; the
sky, for the most part, being obscured, and sometimes by heavy dense
clouds which broke in excessive hard showers.

At seven o'clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was succeeded by a
breeze at east, which the next day increasing and veering to and fixing
at N.E., we stretched to N.W. with our tacks on board. We made no doubt
that we had now got the N.E. trade-wind, as it was attended with fair
weather, except now and then some light showers of rain; and as we
advanced to the north the wind increased, and blew a fresh top-gallant
gale.

On the 21st, I ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper,
which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four
o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It was
continued till six o'clock in the evening; in which time we obtained
thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a
half of coals; which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was
necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals only; but the
expence of fuel was no object with me. The victuals were dressed in the
small copper, the other being applied wholly to the still; and every
method was made use of to obtain from it the greatest quantity of fresh
water possible; as this was my sole motive for setting it to work. The
mercury in the thermometer at noon was eighty-four and a half, and
higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it been lower, more water, under
the same circumstances, would undoubtedly have been produced; for the
colder the air is, the cooler you can keep the still, which will
condense the steam the faster. Upon the whole, this is an useful
invention; but I would advise no man to trust wholly to it. For although
you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as
much water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts,
obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where
it is the most wanting: For I am well convinced, that nothing
contributes more to the health of seamen, than having plenty of water.

The wind now remained invariably fixed at N.E. and E.N.E., and blew
fresh with squalls, attended with showers of rain, and the sky for the
most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the latitude of 16 deg. 12' N., longitude
37 deg. 20' W., seeing a ship to windward steering down upon us, we
shortened sail in order to speak with her; but finding she was Dutch by
her colours, we made sail again and left her to pursue her course, which
we supposed was to some of the Dutch settlements in the West Indies. In
the latitude of 20 deg. N., longitude 39 deg. 45' W., the wind began to veer to
E. by N. and E.; but the weather remained the same; that is, we
continued to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light squalls and
showers. Our track was between N.W. by N. and N.N.W., till noon on the
28th, after which our course made good was N. by W., being at this time
in the latitude of 21 deg. 21' N., longitude 40 deg. 6' W. Afterwards, the wind
began to blow a little more steady, and was attended with fair and clear
weather. At two o'clock in the morning of the 30th, being in the
latitude of 24 deg. 20' N., longitude 40 deg. 47' W., a ship, steering to the
westward, passed us within hail. We judged her to be English, as they
answered us in that language; but we could not understand what they
said, and they were presently out of sight.

In the latitude of 29 deg. 30', longitude 41 deg. 30', the wind slackened and
veered more to the S.E. We now began to see some of that sea-plant,
which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a supposition that it comes
from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to the contrary, it
may be a fact; but it seems not necessary, as it is certainly a plant
which vegetates at sea. We continued to see it, but always in small
pieces, till we reached the latitude 36 deg., longitude 39 deg. W., beyond which
situation no more appeared.

On the 5th of July, in the latitude of 22 deg. 31' 30" N., longitude 40 deg. 29'
W., the wind veered to the east, and blew very faint: The next day it
was calm; the two following days we had variable light airs and calms by
turns; and, at length, on the 9th, having fixed at S.S.W., it increased
to a fresh gale, with which we steered first N.E. and then E.N.E., with
a view of making some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On the 11th, in
the latitude of 36 deg. 45' N., longitude 36 deg. 45' W., we saw a sail which
was steering to the west; and the next day we saw three more.

SECTION XI.

_Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a Description of the Place,
and the Return of the Resolution to England._

At five o'clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the island of Fayal,
one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we spent the
night in making short boards. At day-break the next morning, we bore
away for the bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where at eight o'clock, we
anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clear sandy bottom, and something
more than half a mile from the shore. Here we moored N.E. and S.W.,
being directed so to do by the master of the port, who came on board
before we dropped anchor. When moored, the S.W. point of the bay bore S.
16 deg. W., and the N.E. point N. 33 deg. E.; the church at the N.E. end of the
town N. 38 deg. W., the west point of St George's Island N. 42 deg. E., distant
eight leagues; and the isle of Pico, extending from N. 74 deg. E. to S. 46 deg.
E., distant four or five miles.

We found in the bay the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an American
sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come last from the
river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provision from the Cape Verd
Islands; but, not being able to find them, she steered for this place,
where she anchored about half an hour before us.

As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr Wales an opportunity
to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix with some
degree of certainty the longitude of these islands, the moment we
anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul, and to notify
our arrival to the governor, requesting his permission for Mr Wales to
make observations on shore, for the purpose above mentioned. Mr Dent,
who acted as consul in the absence of Mr Gathorne, not only procured
this permission, but accommodated Mr Wales with a convenient place in
his garden to set up his instruments; so that he was enabled to observe
equal altitudes the same day.

We were not more obliged to Mr Dent for the very friendly readiness he
shewed in procuring us this and every other thing we wanted, than for
the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met with at his house,
which was open to accommodate us both night and day.

During our stay, the ship's company was served with fresh beef; and we
took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought off in the
country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. Ships are
allowed to water with their own boats; but the many inconveniencies
attending it, more than overbalance the expence of hiring shore-boats,
which is the most general custom.

Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef, vegetables,
and fruit; and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea stock, all at a pretty
reasonable price; but I do not know that any sea-provisions are to be
had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are
small and wretchedly poor.

The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they
supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa
de Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of
the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town,
and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore from the one to
the other. But these works are suffered to go to decay, and serve more
for shew than strength. They heighten the prospect of the city, which
makes a fine appearance from the road; but, if we except the Jesuits'
college, the monasteries and churches, there is not another building
that has any thing to recommend it, either outside or in. There is not a
glass window in the place, except what are in the churches, and in a
country-house which lately belonged to the English consul; all the
others being latticed, which, to an Englishman, makes them look like
prisons.

This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is
crowded with religious buildings, there being no less than three
convents of men and two of women, and eight churches, including those
belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jesuits' college. This
college is a fine structure, and is situated on an elevation in the
pleasantest part of the city. Since the expulsion of that order, it has
been suffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few years, be no
better than a heap of ruins.

Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise sufficient for
its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no
road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thence
shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal
Wine.

The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the isle,
before the Villa de Horta, and facing the west end of Pico. It is two
miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a semi-circular
form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten and even six fathoms, a
sandy bottom, except near the shore, and particularly near the S.W.
head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the line which joins
the two points of the bay, so that it is not safe to anchor far out. The
bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, will direct any one to
the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds most to be
apprehended, are those which blow from between the S.S.W. and S.E.; the
former is not so dangerous as the latter, because, with it, you can
always get to sea. Besides this road, there is a small cove round the
S.W. point, called Porto Pierre, in which, I am told, a ship or two may
lie in tolerable safety, and where they sometimes heave small vessels
down.

A Portuguese captain told me, that about half a league from the road in
the direction of S.E., in a line between it and the south side of Pico,
lies a sunken rock, over which is twenty-two feet water, and on which
the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. He also assured me, that of
all the shoals that are laid down in our charts and pilot-books about
these isles, not one has any existence but the one between the islands
of St Michael and St Mary, called Hormingan. This account may be
believed, without relying entirely upon it. He further informed me, that
it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the island of Flores; and that
there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to
the N.E. and the ebb to the S.W., but that, out at sea, the direction is
E. and W. Mr Wales having observed the times of high and low water by
the shore, concluded that it must be high water at the full and change,
about twelve o'clock, and the water riseth about four or five feet.

The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr Rebiers,
lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me, that after being by
estimation two leagues due south of Flores, they made forty-four leagues
on a S.E. by E. course by compass, to St Catherine's Point on Fayal.

I found the latitude of the ship at anchor 38 deg. 31' 55" N.
in the bay

By a mean of seventeen sets of lunar 28 24 30 W.
observations, and reduced to the bay
by the watch, the longitude was made

By a mean of six sets after leaving it, 28 53 22
and reduced back by the watch
-----------------
Longitude by observation 28 38 56
-----------------
Ditto, by the watch 28 55 45

Error of the watch on our arrival at 16 26-1/2
Portsmouth
-----------------
True longitude by the watch 28 39 18-1/2
_________________

I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken by
different compasses on board the ship, to agree very well with the like
observations made by Mr Wales on shore; and yet the variation thus found
is greater by 5 deg. than we found it to be at sea, for the azimuths taken
on board the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more than 16 deg.
18' W. variation, and the evening after we came out 17 deg. 33' W.

I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our run
from the island of Fernando De Noronha to Fayal. The least variation we
found was 37' W. which was the day after we left Fernando De Noronha,
and in the latitude of 33' S., longitude 32 deg. 16' W. The next day, being
nearly in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 1 deg. 25' N., it was
1 deg. 23' W.; and we did not find it increase till we got into the latitude
of 5 deg. N., longitude 31 deg. W. After this our compasses gave different
variation, viz. from 3 deg. 57' to 5 deg. 11' W. till we arrived in the latitude
of 26 deg. 44' N., longitude 41 deg. W., when we found 6 deg. W. It then increased
gradually, so that in the latitude of 35 deg. N., longitude 40 deg. W., it was
10 deg. 24' W.; in the latitude of 38 deg. 12' N., longitude 32 deg. 1/2 W. it was
14 deg. 47'; and in sight of Fayal 16 deg. 18' W., as mentioned above.

Having left the bay, at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered for
the west end of St George's Island. As soon as we had passed it, I
steered E. 1/2 S. for the Island of Tercera; and after having run
thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the west end. I
now edged away for the north side, with a view of ranging the coast to
the eastern point, in order to ascertain the length of the island; but
the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, I gave
up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for England.

On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning we
anchored at Spithead; and the same day I landed at Portsmouth, and set
out for London, in company with Messrs Wales, Forsters, and Hodges.

Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which
time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, and only
one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, at the conclusion of this
journal, to enumerate the several causes to which, under the care of
Providence, I conceive this uncommon good state of health, experienced
by my people, was owing.

In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary
attention paid by the Admiralty in causing such articles to be put on
board, as either from experience or suggestion it was judged would tend
to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the
reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were
found the most useful.

We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made _Sweet
Wort_. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms of the scurvy,
and also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder,
this was given, from, one to two or three pints a-day each man; or in
such proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted
to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best anti-scorbutic
sea-medicines yet discovered; and, if used in time, will, with proper
attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from
making any great progress for a considerable while. But I am not
altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea.

_Sour Krout_, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome
vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; and it spoils
not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man, when at sea,
twice-a-week, or oftener, as was thought necessary.

_Portable Broth_ was another great article, of which we had a large
supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as
circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days in the
week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was
boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for breakfast; and
also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several
nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people
eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have
done.

_Rob of Lemon and Orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not without. The
surgeon made use of it in many cases with great success.

Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with _Sugar_ in
the room of _Oil_, and with _Wheat_ for a part of our _Oatmeal_; and
were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very
good antiscorbutic; whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied
with), I am of opinion, has the contrary effect.

But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions
or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by
certain regulations. On this principle, many years experience, together
with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis,
and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan, whereby all
was to be governed.

The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary
occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as
if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry clothes to
shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to
expose them as little to wet weather as possible.

Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding,
cloaths, &c. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the
ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired
with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with
gun-powder, mixed with vinegar or water. I had also, frequently, a fire
made in an iron pot, at the bottom of the well, which was of great use
in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this, and to
cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great
attention cannot be paid; the least neglect occasions a putrid and
disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove.

Proper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so that they were kept
constantly clean.

The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to
be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy.

I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we
did not want it, because I look upon fresh water from the shore to be
more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board a ship.
Of this essential article we were never at an allowance, but had always
plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot,
indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with such advantages in this
respect, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into
very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers inseparable from that
situation, were in some degree compensated by the singular felicity we
enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an
ocean strewed with ice.

We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty of
nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in
the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of
any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige
our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority; but
the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind soon became so
obvious, that I had little occasion, to recommend the one, or to exert
the other.

It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage
have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events,
nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune; though my
relation of it has been more employed in tracing our course by sea, than
in recording our operations on shore; this, perhaps, is a circumstance
from which the curious reader may infer, that the purposes for which we
were sent into the Southern Hemisphere, were diligently and effectually
pursued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better
enabled to gratify curiosity; but we hope our not having found it, after
all our persevering researches, will leave less room for future
speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored.

But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with
real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention
to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation, which
facts enable me to make; that our having discovered the possibility of
preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company, for such a length
of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued
hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion
of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent
shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of
philosophers.[20]

[Footnote 20: We cannot better express the importance of the
preservative measures adopted during this voyage, and therefore the
value of the voyage itself, than by quoting a passage from Sir John
Pringle's discourse on assigning to Captain Cook the Royal Society's
Copleyan medal, a distinguished honour conferred on him, though absent
on his last expedition, shortly after having been elected a member of
that illustrious body. "I would enquire of the most conversant in the
study of bills of mortality, whether, in the most healthful climate, and
in the best condition of life, they have ever found so small a number of
deaths, within the same space of time? How great and agreeable then must
our surprise be, after perusing the histories of long navigations in
former days, when so many perished by marine diseases, to find the air
of the sea acquitted of all malignity, and, in fine, that a voyage round
the world may be undertaken with less danger, perhaps, to health, than a
common tour in Europe!"--"If Rome," he says in conclusion, "decreed the
civic crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths
are due to that man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your
Transactions, (alluding to Captain Cook's paper on the subject), the
means by which Britain may now, on the most distant voyages, preserve
numbers of her intrepid sons, her _mariners_; who, braving every danger,
have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the
maritime empire, of their country?"--An acknowledgement so judicious
finds a response in every breast that knows how to estimate the value of
human life and happiness, and will not fail to secure to the name of
Cook, the grateful applause of every succeeding generation.--E.]

A

VOCABULARY

OF THE

LANGUAGE OF THE SOCIETY ISLES.

* * * * *

DIRECTIONS

_For the Pronunciation of the Vocabulary_.

As all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating their
ideas by characters, (which represent the sound that conveys the idea,)
have some particular method of managing, or pronouncing, the sounds
represented by such characters, this forms a very essential article in
the constitution of the language of any particular nation, and must,
therefore, be understood before we can make any progress in learning, or
be able to converse in it. But as this is very complex and tedious to a
beginner, by reason of the great variety of powers the characters, or
letters, are endued with under different circumstances, it would seem
necessary, at least in languages which have never before appeared in
writing, to lessen the number of these varieties, by restraining the
different sounds, and always representing the same simple ones by the
same character; and this is no less necessary in the English than any
other language, as this variety of powers is very frequent, and without
being taken notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it
entirely unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulations of all
sounds, it is these only that need be noticed, and the powers allotted
to each of these in the Vocabulary is subjoined.