A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18)

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At day-break on the 18th, we saw the land again, bearing N.N.W., six or
seven leagues distant, and the depth of water forty-eight fathoms. At
nine o'clock, having little or no wind, we hoisted out a boat, and sent
on board one of the two ships before-mentioned, which were about two
leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news to regard the
distance. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with which we stood to
the south; and, presently, three sail more appeared in sight to
windward, one of which shewed English colours.

At one, p.m., the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder,
Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch,
very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare.
Our people were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the
Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and
that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the
people of New Zealand; so that the story which we heard in Queen
Charlotte's Sound was now no longer a mystery.

We had light airs next, to a calm till ten o'clock the next morning,
when a breeze sprung up at west, and the English ship, which was to
windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, Captain
Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the Cape, I put a
letter on board him for the secretary of the Admiralty.

The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed to us
by this ship. We also got, from on board her, a parcel of old
newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amusement; but these
were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a
generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, he
sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles which were very
acceptable, and deserve from me this public acknowledgment. In the
afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and we in
for the land, having a very fresh gale at west, which split our fore
top-sail in such a manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the
yard. At six o'clock we tacked within four or five miles of the shore;
and, as we judged, about five or six leagues to the east of Cape
Aguilas. We stood off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round
to the south, we tacked, and stood along-shore to the west. The wind
kept veering more and more in our favour, and at last fixed at E.S.E.;
and blew for some hours a perfect hurricane.

As soon as the storm began to subside, we made sail, and hauled in for
the land. Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town bore
N.E. by E., distant nine or ten leagues. By making use of this bearing
and distance to reduce the longitude shewn by the watch to the Cape
Town, the error was found to be no more than 18' in longitude, which it
was too far to the east. Indeed the difference found between it and the
lunar observations, since we left New Zealand, had seldom exceeded half
a degree, and always the same way.

The next morning, being with us Wednesday the 22d, but with the people
here Tuesday the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found several
Dutch ships; some French; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East
India Company's ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom I
sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and
other drawings to the Admiralty.

Before we had well got to an anchor, I dispatched an officer to acquaint
the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary stores and
refreshments; which were readily granted. As soon as the officer came
back, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was
immediately returned with an equal number.

I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; and I
found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the loss of
his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The
captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my hands a
complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our second and
final separation, which I now lay before the public in the following
section.

SECTION VIII.

_Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings, in the Adventure,
from, the Time he was separated from the Resolution, to his Arrival in
England; including Lieutenant Burney's Report concerning the Boat's Crew
who were murdered by the Inhabitants of Queen Charlottes Sound_.

After a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we made the coast of
New Zealand near the Table Cape, and stood along-shore till we came as
far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow strong at west, with
heavy squalls and rain, which split many of our sails, and blew us off
the coast for three days; in which time we parted company with the
Resolution, and never saw her afterwards.

On the 4th of November, we again got in shore, near Cape Palliser, and
were visited by a number of the natives in their canoes; bringing a
great quantity of cray-fish, which we bought of them for nails and
Otaheite cloth. The next day it blew hard from W.N.W., which again drove
us off the coast, and obliged us to bring-to for two days; during which
time it blew one continual gale of wind, with heavy falls of sleet. By
this time, our decks were very leaky; our beds and bedding wet; and
several of our people complaining of colds; so that we began to despair
of ever getting into Charlotte's Sound, or joining the Resolution.

On the 6th, being to the north of the cape, the wind at S.W., and
blowing strong, we bore away for some bay to complete our water and
wood, being in great want of both, having been at the allowance of one
quart of water for some days past; and even that pittance could not be
come at above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga Bay on the
9th, in latitude 38 deg. 21' S., longitude 178 deg. 31' east. It affords good
riding with the wind westerly, and regular soundings from eleven to five
fathoms, stiff muddy ground across the bay for about two miles. It is
open from N.N.E. to E.S.E. It is to be observed, easterly winds seldom
blow hard on this shore; but when they do, they throw in a great sea,
so that if it were not for a great undertow, together with a large river
that empties itself in the bottom of the bay, a ship would not be able
to ride here. Wood and water are easily to be had, except when it blows
hard easterly. The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte's
Sound, but more numerous, and seemed settled, having regular plantations
of sweet potatoes, and other roots, which are very good; and they have
plenty of cray and other fish, which we bought of them for nails, beads,
and other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of their canoes we observed
the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other
ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, we
found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept as
the relic of some deceased relation.

Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, we sailed for
Charlotte's Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than the wind began
to blow hard, dead on the shore, so that we could not clear the land on
either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, where we
anchored the next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of wind at E.
by S., which threw in a very great sea. We now began to fear we should
never join the Resolution; having reason to believe she was in Charlotte
Sound, and by this time ready for sea. We soon found it was with great
difficulty we could get any water, owing to the swell setting in so
strong; at last, however, we were able to go on shore, and got both wood
and water.

Whilst we lay here we were employed about the rigging, which was much
damaged by the constant gales of wind we had met with since we made the
coast. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made the ship as
snug as possible, sailed again on the 16th. After this we met with
several gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and continued beating
backwards and forwards till the 30th, when we were so fortunate as to
get a favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at last got
safe into our desired port. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began
to doubt her safety; but on going ashore, we discerned the place where
she had erected her tents; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden,
observed these words cut out, "Look underneath." There we dug, and soon
found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain
Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the
24th; and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the
Straits to look for us.

We immediately set about getting the ship ready for sea as fast as
possible; erected our tents; sent the cooper on shore to repair the
casks; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in
butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely
spoiled, and most part so damaged, that we were obliged to fix our
copper oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly delayed us
a considerable time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants came on board
as before, supplying us with fish, and other things of their own
manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, &c. and appeared very
friendly, though twice in the middle of the night they came to the tent,
with an intention to steal; but were discovered before they could get
any thing into their possession.

On the 17th of December, having refitted the ship, completed our water
and wood, and got every thing ready for sea, we sent our large cutter,
with Mr Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens
for the ship's company; with orders to return that evening, as I
intended to sail the next morning. But on the boat's not returning the
same evening, nor the next morning, being under great uneasiness about
her, I hoisted out the launch, and sent her with the second lieutenant,
Mr Burney, manned with the boat's crew and ten marines, in search of
her. My orders to Mr Burney were first, to look well into East Bay, and
then to proceed to Grass Cove, the place to which Mr Rowe had been sent;
and if he heard nothing of the boat there, to go farther up the sound,
and come back along the west shore. As Mr Rowe had left the ship an hour
before the time proposed, and in a great hurry, I was strongly persuaded
that his curiosity had carried him into East Bay, none in our ship
having ever been there; or else, that some accident had happened to the
boat, either by going adrift through the boat-keeper's negligence, or by
being stove among the rocks. This was almost every body's opinion; and
on this supposition, the carpenter's mate was sent in the launch, with
some sheets of tin. I had not the least suspicion that our people had
received any injury from the natives, our boats having frequently been
higher up, and worse provided. How much I was mistaken, too soon
appeared; for Mr Burney having returned about eleven o'clock the same
night, made his report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be
better described than in his own words, which now follow.

"On the 18th, we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our favour,
we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every
cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around
with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At half past one, we
stopped at a beach on the left-hand side going up East Bay, to boil some
victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we were
cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach to
the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat and put
off; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, where we
saw an Indian settlement."

"As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved
for us to be gone, but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their
notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of
them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many as one
might expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. Leaving
the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines
(the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of their houses,
but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beaten
paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses; but the
people continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our
search. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a
bundle of _Hepatoos_ (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly
at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming
unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a
looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the
bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended
in a long sandy beach. I looked all around with the glass, but saw no
boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with
firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along."

"I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement,
where the Indians invited us ashore. I enquired of them about the boat,
but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold
us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach
adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled
up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and
ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get
tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we
found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of
which was known to belong to Mr Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of
the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took
to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining
this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr Fannin (the master)
who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same
opinion; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon
convinced by most horrid and undeniable proof."

"A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach, tied up, we cut
them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern-root, which
serves them for bread. On, farther search, we found more shoes, and a
hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of
our fore-castle men, it being marked T.H. with an Otaheite
tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people a little way up the
woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot
covered with fresh earth, about four feet diameter, where something had
been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass; and in the
mean time I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her; but seeing a
great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into
the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set."

"On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one
single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who,
on our approach; retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of
the water side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the
top of the high land, beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down
the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a
musquetoon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be
full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all afloat, but
nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill still kept
hallooing, and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got
close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them
much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they
could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see
the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were
two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves
forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great
composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. One
of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled off on
all-fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landed
with the marines, and Mr Fannin staid to guard the boat."

"On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for
loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to
which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had
been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to
see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such
a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or
thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several
of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance,
the dogs gnawing their entrails."

"Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr Fannin called to us
that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I
returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the canoes, we demolished
three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the
hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high
words; I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should attack us, and
try to save their canoes. It now grew dark; I therefore just stepped
out, and looked once more behind the beach to see if the cutter had been
hauled up in the bushes; but seeing nothing of her, returned, and put
off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up
the hill; and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left
to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness."

"As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire
about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval,
reaching from the top of the hill down almost to the water-side, the
middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I
consulted with Mr Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could
expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing
some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general
volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and
out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What
was still worse, it began to rain; our ammunition was more than, half
expended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so
many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where
nothing could be hoped for but revenge."

"Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East
Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars, and
listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but to
little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing, and,
indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that in all probability
every man of them must have been killed on the spot."

Thus far Mr Burney's report; and to complete the account of this
tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention, that the
people in the cutter were Mr Rowe, Mr Woodhouse, Francis Murphy,
quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward
Jones, fore-castle men; John Cavanaugh, and Thomas Milton, belonging to
the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain's man, being ten in
all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and most
healthy people in the ship. Mr Burney's party brought on board two
hands, one belonging to Mr Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it;
the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of the
captain's servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in a
hammock, and thrown over-board, with ballast and shot sufficient to sink
it. None of their arms nor cloaths were found, except part of a pair of
trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being fellows.

I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these
savages; for, the morning Mr Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes,
which came down and staid all the fore-noon in Ship Cove. It might
probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot, or the
fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so
incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which
encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were sensible that a gun was
not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that, when discharged,
they must be loaded before they could be used again, which time they
knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was
a general meeting on the east side of the sound. The Indians of Shag
Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes,
and by a long single canoe, which some of our people had seen four days
before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr Rowe in the cutter.

We were detained in the Sound by contrary winds four days after this
melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the
inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in the
same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an
inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had
not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr Burney entered the
cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen hundred or
two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized of his coming,
they would have attacked him. From these considerations, I thought it
imprudent to send a boat up again; as we were convinced there was not
the least probability of any of our people being alive.

On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the
eastward to get clear of the straits; which we accomplished the same
evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds, before
we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S.S.E. till we got into
the latitude of 56 deg. south, without any thing remarkable happening,
having a great swell from the southward. At this time the wind began to
blow strong from the S.W., and the weather to be very cold; and as the
ship was low and deep laden, the sea made a continual breach over her,
which kept us always wet; and by her straining, very few of the people
were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them.

The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean, except,
now and then, we saw a whale or porpoise; and sometimes a seal or two,
and a few penguins. In the latitude of 58 deg. S., longitude 213 deg.[16] east,
we fell in with some ice, and, every day, saw more or less, we then
standing to the east. We found a very strong current setting to the
eastward; for by the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the
latitude of 61 deg. S., the ship was a-head of our account eight degrees. We
were very little more than a month from Cape Palliser in New Zealand to
Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and
had continual westerly winds from S.W. to N.W., with a great sea
following.

[Footnote 16: About 147 west longitude, as I reckon.]

On opening some casks of pease and flour, that had been stowed on the
coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so thought it
most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into
the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After being to the
eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow so strong from
the westward as usual, but came more from the north, which brought on
thick foggy weather; so that for several days together we could not be
able to get an observation, or see the least sign of the sun. This
weather lasted above a month, being then among a great many islands of
ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out, for fear of running foul
of them, and, being a single ship, made us more attentive. By this time
our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, which
obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 54 deg. S.; but we
still continued to have the same sort of weather, though we had oftener
an opportunity of obtaining observations for the latitude.

After getting into the latitude above-mentioned, I steered to the east,
in order, if possible, to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As we
advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and
dangerous; they being much smaller than they used to be; and the nights
began to be dark.

On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 54 deg. 4' S., longitude
13 deg. E., which is the latitude of Bouvet's discovery, and half a degree
to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least sign of land, either now
or since we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking for it, and
hauled away to the northward. As our last track to the southward was
within a few degrees of Bouvet's discovery in the longitude assigned to
it, and about three or four degrees to the southward, should there be
any land thereabout, it must be a very inconsiderable island. But I
believe it was nothing but ice: As we, in our first setting out, thought
we had seen land several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice
at the back of the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when
Mr Bouvet fell in with it, he might very easily mistake them for land.