A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18)

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Having, therefore, some days of leisure before me, a party of us,
accompanied by Poulaho, set out, early next morning, in a boat for Mooa,
the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As we rowed
up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fishing in company, in one of
which was Poulaho's son. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended
between two poles; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and
secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullets, and they put
about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see their method of fishing,
which they readily complied with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be
upon one of the banks, which they instantly inclosed in a long net like
a seine, or set-net. This the fishers, one getting into the water out of
each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with
which they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they
attempted to leap over it. They shewed us the whole process of this
operation, (which seemed to be a sure one,) by throwing in some of the
fish they had already caught; for, at this time, there happened to be
none upon the bank that was inclosed.

Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we proceeded to the bottom of
the bay, and landed where we had done before, on our fruitless errand to
see Mareewagee. As soon as we got on shore, the king desired Omai to
tell me, that I need be under no apprehensions about the boat, or any
thing in her, for not a single article would be touched by any one; and
we afterward found this to be the case. We were immediately conducted to
one of Poulaho's houses not far off, and near the public one, or
_malaee_, in which we had been, when we first visited Mooa. This, though
pretty large, seemed to be his private habitation, and was situated
within a plantation. The king took his seat at one end of the house, and
the people who came to visit him, sat down, as they arrived, in a
semicircle at the other end. The first thing done, was to prepare a bowl
of _kava_, and to order some yams to be baked for us. While these were
getting ready, some of us, accompanied by a few of the king's
attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of a
_fiatooka_, or burying-place, which we had observed to be almost close
by the house, and was much more extensive, and seemingly of more
consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told
that it belonged to the king. It consisted of three pretty large houses,
situated upon a rising ground, or rather just by the brink of it, with
a small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The middle
house of the three first, was by much the largest, and placed in a
square, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised about three feet. The
other houses were placed on little mounts, raised artificially to the
same height. The floors of these houses, as also the tops of the mounts
round them, were covered with loose, fine pebbles, and the whole was
inclosed by large flat stones[167] of hard coral rock, properly hewn,
placed on their edges, one of which stones measured twelve feet in
length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. One of the houses,
contrary to what we had seen before, was open on one side; and within it
were two rude wooden busts of men, one near the entrance, and the other
farther in. On enquiring of the natives, who had followed us to the
ground, but durst not enter here, What these images were intended for?
they made us as sensible as we could wish, that they were merely
memorials of some chiefs who had been buried there, and not the
representations of any deity. Such monuments, it should seem, are seldom
raised; for these had, probably, been erected several ages ago. We were
told that the dead had been buried in each of these houses, but no marks
of this appeared. In one of them, was the carved head of an Otaheite
canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here.
At the foot of the rising ground, was a large area, or grass-plot, with
different trees planted about it, amongst which were several of those
called _etoa_, very large. These, as they resemble the cypress, had a
fine effect in such a place. There was, also, a row of low palms near
one of the houses, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of
old baskets.

[Footnote 167: The burying places of the chiefs at the Caroline Islands,
are also inclosed in this manner. See Lettres Edifiantes & Curiouses,
tom. xv. p. 309.--D.]

After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourselves with some
provisions which we had brought with us from our ship, we made an
excursion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by
one of the king's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not
suffer the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met
upon our progress, to sit down till we had passed, which is a mark of
respect due only to their sovereigns. We found by far the greatest part
of the country cultivated, and planted with various sorts of
productions; and most of these plantations were fenced round. Some
spots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced nothing, lying
fallow; and there were places that had never been touched, but lay in a
state of nature, and yet even these were useful, in affording them
timber, as they were generally covered with trees. We met with several
large uninhabited houses, which, we were told, belonged to the king.
There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of
foot-paths leading to every part of the island. The roads being good,
and the country level, travelling was very easy. It is remarkable, that
when we were on the most elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above
the level of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock, which is
found at the shore, projecting above the surface, and perforated and cut
into all those inequalities which are usually seen in rocks that lie
within the wash of the tide. And yet these very spots, with hardly any
soil upon them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were
conducted to several little pools, and to some springs of water; but, in
general, they were either stinking or brackish, though recommended to us
by the natives as excellent. The former were mostly inland, and the
latter near the shore of the bay, and below high-water mark, so that
tolerable water could be taken up from them, only when the tide was out.

When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the
evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some fish,
and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of these
islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the
custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread
upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himself
very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the
same house, as well as several others of the natives. Long before
day-break, he and they all rose, and sat conversing by moon-light. The
conversation, as might well be guessed, turned wholly upon us; the king
entertaining his company with an account of what he had seen, or
remarked. As soon as it was day, they dispersed, some one way, and some
another; but it was not long before they all returned, and, with them,
several more of their countrymen.

They now began to prepare a bowl of _kava_; and, leaving them so
employed, I went to pay a visit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend,
who had a house hard by, which, for size and neatness, was exceeded by
few in the place. As I had left the others, so I found here a company
preparing a morning draught. This chief made a present to me of a living
hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large piece of cloth. When I
returned to the king, I found him, and his circle of attendants,
drinking the second bowl of _kava_. That being emptied, he told Omai,
that he was going presently to perform a mourning ceremony, called
_Tooge_, on account of a son who had been dead some time, and he desired
us to accompany him. We were glad of the opportunity, expecting to see
somewhat new or curious.

The first thing the chief did, was to step out of the house, attended by
two old women, and put on a new suit of clothes, or rather a new piece
of cloth, and, over it, an old ragged mat, that might have served his
great grandfather, on some such occasion. His servants, or those who
attended him, were all dressed in the same manner, excepting that none
of their mats could vie, in antiquity, with that of their master. Thus
equipped, we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten persons, in all
the above habits of ceremony, each of them, besides, having a small
green bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand till we
drew near the place of rendezvous, when he also put it about his neck.
We now entered a small inclosure, in which was a neat house, and we
found one man sitting before it. As the company entered, they pulled off
the green branches from round their necks, and threw them away. The king
having first seated himself, the others sat down before him, in the
usual manner. The circle increased, by others dropping in, to the number
of a hundred or upward, mostly old men, all dressed as above described.
The company being completely assembled, a large root of _kava_, brought
by one of the king's servants, was produced, and a bowl which contained
four or five gallons. Several persons now began to chew the root, and
this bowl was made brimful of liquor. While it was preparing, others
were employed in making drinking cups of plantain leaves. The first cup
that was filled, was presented to the king, and he ordered it to be
given to another person. The second was also brought to him, which he
drank, and the third was offered to me. Afterward, as each cup was
filled, the man who filled it, asked who was to have it? Another then
named the person; and to him it was carried. As the bowl grew low, the
man who distributed the liquor seemed rather at a loss to whom cups of
it should be next sent, and frequently consulted those who sat near him.
This mode of distribution continued, while any liquor remained; and
though not half the company had a share, yet no one seemed dissatisfied.
About half a dozen cups served for all; and each, as it was emptied, was
thrown down upon the ground, where the servants picked it up, and
carried it to be filled again. During the whole time, the chief and his
circle sat as was usually the case, with a great deal of gravity, hardly
speaking a word to each other.

We had long waited in expectation, each moment, of seeing the mourning
ceremony begin; when, soon after the _kava_ was drank out, to our great
surprise and disappointment, they all rose up and dispersed; and Poulaho
told us, he was now ready to attend us to the ships. If this was a
mourning ceremony, it was a strange one. Perhaps it was the second,
third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might
have misunderstood what Poulaho said to him. For, excepting the change
of dress, and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing
seemed to have passed at this meeting, but what we saw them practise,
too frequently, every day.

[168]"We had seen the drinking of _kava_ sometimes at the other islands,
but, by no means, so frequently as here, where it seems to be the only
forenoon employment of the principal people. The _kava_ is a species of
pepper, which they cultivate for this purpose, and esteem it a valuable
article, taking great care to defend the young plants from any injury;
and it is commonly planted about their houses. It seldom grows to more
than a man's height, though I have seen some plants almost double that.
It branches considerably, with large heart-shaped leaves, and jointed
stalks. The root is the only part that is used at the Friendly Islands,
which, being dug up, is given to the servants that attend, who, breaking
it in pieces, scrape the dirt off with a shell, or bit of stick, and
then each begins and chews his portion, which he spits into a piece of
plantain leaf. The person who is to prepare the liquor, collects all
these mouthfuls; and puts them into a large wooden dish, or bowl, adding
as much water as will make it of a proper strength. It is then well
mixed up with the hands, and some loose stuff, of which mats are made,
is thrown upon the surface, which intercepts the fibrous part, and is
wrung hard, to get as much liquid out from it, as is possible. The
manner of distributing it need not be repeated. The quantity which is
put into each cup is commonly about a quarter of a pint. The immediate
effect of this beverage is not perceptible on these people, who use it
so frequently; but on some of ours, who ventured to try it, though so
nastily prepared, it had the same power as spirits have, in intoxicating
them; or, rather, it produced that kind of stupefaction, which is the
consequence of using opium, or other substances of that kind. It should
be observed, at the same time, that though these islanders have this
liquor always fresh prepared, and I have seen them drink it seven times
before noon, it is, nevertheless, so disagreeable, or, at least, seems
so, that the greatest part of them cannot swallow it without making wry
faces, and shuddering, afterward,"

[Footnote 168: The following account of _kava_, to the end of this
paragraph, is inserted from Mr Anderson's journal.--D.]

As soon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left Mooa, and set out to
return to the ships. While we rowed down the _lagoon_, or inlet, we met
with two canoes coming in from fishing. Poulaho ordered them to be
called alongside our boat, and took from them every fish and shell they
had got. He, afterward, stopped two other canoes, and searched them, but
they had nothing. Why this was done I cannot say, for we had plenty
provisions in the boat. Some of this fish he gave to me, and his
servants sold the rest on board the ship. As we proceeded down the
inlet, we overtook a large sailing canoe. Every person on board her,
that was upon his legs when we came up, sat down till we had passed;
even the man who steered, though he could not manage the helm, except in
a standing posture.

Poulaho, and others, having informed me, that there was some excellent
water on Onevy, a little island, which lies about a league off the mouth
of the inlet, and on the north side of the eastern channel, we landed
there, in order to taste it. But I found it to be as brackish as most
that we had met with. This island is quite in a natural state, being
only frequented as a fishing place, and has nearly the same productions
as Palmerston's Island, with some _etoa_ trees. After leaving Onevy,
where we dined, in our way to the ship, we took a view of a curious
coral rock, which seems to have been thrown upon the reef where it
stands. It is elevated about ten or twelve feet above the surface of the
sea that surrounds it. The base it rests upon, is not above one-third of
the circumference of its projecting summit, which I judged to be about
one hundred feet, and is covered with _etoa_ and _pandanus_ trees.

When we got on board the ship, I found that every thing had been quiet
during my absence, not a theft having been committed, of which Feenou,
and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the management of
his countrymen, boasted not a little. This shews what power the chiefs
have, when they have the will to execute it; which we were seldom to
expect, since, whatever was stolen from us, generally, if not always,
was conveyed to them.

The good conduct of the natives was of short duration; for, the next
day, six or eight of them assaulted some of our people, who were sawing
planks. They were fired upon by the sentry, and one was supposed to be
wounded, and three others taken. These I kept confined till night, and
did not dismiss them without punishment. After this, they behaved with a
little more circumspection, and gave us much less trouble. This change
of behaviour was certainly occasioned by the man being wounded; for,
before, they had only been told of the effect of fire-arms, but now they
had felt it. The repeated insolence of the natives, had induced me to
order the musquets of the sentries, to be loaded with small shot, and to
authorise them to fire on particular occasions. I took it for granted,
therefore, that this man had only been wounded with small shot. But Mr
King and Mr Anderson, in an excursion into the country, met with him,
and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded, but not
dangerously, with a musquet ball. I never could find out how this
musquet happened to be charged with ball; and there were people enough
ready to swear, that its contents were only small shot.

Mr Anderson's account of the excursion just mentioned, will fill up an
interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened at the
ships: "Mr King and I went, on the 30th, along with Futtafaihe, as
visitors to his house, which is at Mooa, very near that of his brother
Poulaho. A short time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed;
which is done by repeated strokes on the head. The hair was then
scraped off, very dexterously, with the sharp edge of pieces of split
bamboo, taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in the belly,
by the same simple instrument. Before this, they had prepared an oven,
which is a large hole dug in the earth, filled at the bottom with
stones, about the size of the fist; over which a fire is made till they
are red hot. They took some of these stones, wrapt up in leaves of the
bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, stuffing in a quantity of
leaves, to prevent their falling out, and putting a plug of the same
kind in the _anus_. The carcass was then placed on some sticks laid
across the stones, in a standing posture, and covered with a great
quantity of plantain leaves. After which, they dug up the earth all
round; and having thus effectually closed the oven, the operation of
baking required no farther interference.

"In the mean time we walked about the country, but met with nothing
remarkable, except a _fiatooka_ of one house, standing on an artificial
mount, at least thirty feet high. A little on one side of it, was a
pretty large open area, and not far off, was a good deal of uncultivated
ground, which, on enquiring why it lay waste, our guides seemed to say,
belonged to the _fiatooka_, (which was Poulaho's,) and was not, by any
means, to be touched. There was also, at no great distance, a number of
_etoa_ trees, on which clung vast numbers of the large _ternate_ bats,
making a disagreeable noise. We could not kill any, at this time, for
want of musquets; but some that were got at Annamooka, measured near
three feet, when the wings were extended. On our return to Futtafaihe's
house, he ordered the hog that had been dressed, to be produced, with
several baskets of baked yams, and some cocoa-nuts. But we found, that,
instead of his entertaining us, we were to entertain him, the property
of the feast being entirely transferred to us, as his guests, and we
were to dispose of it as we pleased. The same person who cleaned the hog
in the morning, now cut it up (but not before we desired him) in a very
dextrous manner, with a knife of split bamboo, dividing the several
parts, and hitting the joints, with a quickness and skill that surprised
us very much. The whole was set down before us, though at least fifty
pounds weight, until we took a small piece away, and desired that they
would share the rest amongst the people sitting round. But it was not
without a great many scruples they did that at last, and then they
asked, what particular persons they should give it to. However, they
were very well pleased, when they found that it was not contrary to any
custom of ours; some carrying off the portion they had received, and
others eating it upon the spot. It was with great difficulty that we
could prevail upon Futtafaihe himself to eat a small bit."

"After dinner, we went with him, and five or six people, his attendants,
toward the place where Poulaho's mourning ceremony was transacted the
last time we were at Mooa; but we did not enter the inclosure. Every
person who went with us, had the mat tied over his cloth, and some
leaves about the neck, as had been done on the former occasion; and when
we arrived at a large open boat-house, where a few people were, they
threw away their leaves, sat down before it, and gave their cheeks a few
gentle strokes with the fist; after which they continued sitting, for
about ten minutes, with a very grave appearance, and then dispersed,
without having spoken a single word. This explained what Poulaho had
mentioned about _Tooge_; though, from the operation only lasting a few
seconds, he had not been observed to perform it. And this seems to be
only a continuation of the mourning ceremony, by way of condolence. For,
upon enquiring, on whose account it was now performed, we were told,
that it was for a chief who had died at Vavaoo some time ago; that they
had practised it ever since, and should continue to do so for a
considerable time longer."

"In the evening, we had a pig, dressed as the hog, with yams and
cocoa-nuts, brought for supper; and Futtafaihe finding that we did not
like the scruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the
entertainment, asked us immediately to share it, and give it to whom we
pleased. When supper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to
sleep in, but we were a good deal disturbed, by a singular instance of
luxury, in which their principal men indulge themselves, that of being
beat while they are asleep. Two women sat by Futtafaihe, and performed
this operation, which is called _tooge tooge_, by beating briskly on his
body and legs, with both fists, as on a drum, till he fell asleep, and
continuing it the whole night, with some short intervals. When once the
person is asleep, they abate a little in the strength and quickness of
the beating, but resume it, if they observe any appearance of his
awaking. In the morning, we found that Futtafaihe's women relieved each
other, and went to sleep by turns. In any other country, it would be
supposed, that such a practice would put an end to all rest, but here it
certainly acts as an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may
effect. The noise of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us
awake; for the people, who passed the night in the house, not only
conversed amongst each other frequently, as in the day, but all got up
before it was light, and made a hearty meal on fish and yams, which were
brought to them by a person, who seemed to know very well the appointed
time for this nocturnal refreshment."

"Next morning, July 1, we set out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the
east side of the bay to the point. The country, all along this side, is
well cultivated, but, in general, not so much inclosed as at Mooa; and
amongst many other plantain fields that we passed, there was one at
least a mile long, which was in excellent order, every tree growing with
great vigour. We found, that, in travelling, Futtafaihe exercised a
power, though by no means wantonly, which pointed out the great
authority of such principal men; or is, perhaps, only annexed to those
of the royal family. For he sent to one place for fish, to another for
yams, and so on, at other places, and all his orders were obeyed with
the greatest readiness, as if he had been absolute master of the
people's property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned
something of one, who, they said, had been fired at by some of our
people; and, upon our wishing to see him, they conducted us to a house,
where we found a man who had been shot through the shoulder, but not
dangerously, as the ball had entered a little above the inner part of
the collar-bone, and passed out obliquely backward. We were sure, from
the state of the wound, that he was the person who had been fired at by
one of the sentinels three days before, though positive orders had been
given, that none of them should load their pieces with any thing but
small shot. We gave some directions to his friends how to manage the
wound, to which no application had been made; and they seemed pleased,
when we told them it would get well in a certain time. But, on our going
away, they asked us to send the wounded man some yams, and other things
for food, and, in such a manner, that we could not help thinking they
considered it to be our duty to support him till he should get well."

"In the evening we crossed the bay to our station, in a canoe, which
Futtafaihe had exercised his prerogative in procuring, by calling to the
first that passed by. He had also got a large hog at this place, and
brought a servant from his house with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted
us to take with us, as a present from him. But the boat being small, we
objected; and he ordered it to be brought over to us the next day."