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A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18)




After a considerable interval, another act, as we may call it, began.
Twelve men now advanced, who placed themselves in double rows fronting
each other, but on opposite sides of the circle; and, on one side, a man
was stationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated several
sentences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied.
They then sung slowly; and afterward danced and sung more quickly, for
about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they
had succeeded.

Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat
down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose, and struck
the first of these women on the back, with both fists joined. He
proceeded, in the same manner, to the second and third; but when he came
to the fourth, whether from accident or design I cannot tell, instead of
the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a person rose instantly
from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head;
and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder. But this did
not save the other five women from so odd a discipline, or perhaps
necessary ceremony; for a person succeeded him, who treated them in the
same manner. Their disgrace did not end here; for when they danced, they
had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of,
and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ much from that
of the first women, except in this one circumstance, that the present
set sometimes raised the body upon one leg, by a sort of double motion,
and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude they kept
snapping their fingers; and, at the end, they repeated, with great
agility, the brisk movements, in which the former group of female
dancers had shewn themselves so expert.

In a little tine, a person entered unexpectedly, and said something in a
ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which
extorted a burst of laughter from the multitude. After this, we had a
dance composed of the men, who attended, or had followed, Feenou. They
formed a double circle (i.e. one within another) of twenty-four each,
round the chorus, and began a gentle soothing song, with corresponding
motions of the hands and head. This lasted a considerable time, and then
changed to a much quicker measure, during which they repeated sentences,
either in conjunction with the chorus, or in answer to some spoken by
that band. They then retreated to the back part of the circle, as the
women had done, and again advanced, on each side, in a triple row, till
they formed a semicircle, which was done very slowly, by inclining the
body on one leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it
down. They accompanied this with such a soft air as they had sung at the
beginning; but soon changed it to repeat sentences in a harsher tone, at
the same time quickening the dance very much, till they finished with a
general shout and clap of the hands. The same was repeated several
times; but, at last, they formed a double circle, as at the beginning,
danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally closed with several very
dexterous transpositions of the two circles.

The entertainments of this memorable night concluded with a dance, in
which the principal people present exhibited. It resembled the
immediately preceding one, in some respects, having the same number of
performers, who began nearly in the same way; but their ending, at each
interval, was different; for they increased their motions to a
prodigious quickness, shaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder,
with such force, that a spectator, unaccustomed to the sight, would
suppose, that they ran a risk of dislocating their necks. This was
attended with a smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage holla!
or shriek, not unlike what is sometimes practised in the comic dances on
our European theatres. They formed the triple semicircle, as the
preceding dancers had done; and a person, who advanced at the head on
one side of the semicircle, began by repeating something in a truly
musical recitative, which was delivered with an air so graceful, as
might put to the blush our most applauded performers. He was answered in
the same manner, by the person at the head of the opposite party. This
being repeated several times, the whole body, on one side, joined in the
responses to the whole corresponding body on the opposite side, as the
semicircle advanced to the front; and they finished, by singing and
dancing as they had begun.

These two last dances were performed with so much spirit, and so great
exactness, that they met with universal approbation. The native
spectators, who, no doubt, were perfect judges whether the several
performances were properly executed, could not withhold their applauses
at some particular parts; and even a stranger, who never saw the
diversion before, felt similar satisfaction, at the same instant. For
though, through the whole, the most strict concert was observed, some of
the gestures were so expressive, that it might be said, they spoke the
language that accompanied them; if we allow that there is any connection
between motion and sound. At the same time, it should be observed, that
though the music of the chorus, and that of the dancers, corresponded,
constant practice in these favourite amusements of our friends, seems to
have a great share in effecting the exact time they keep in their
performances. For we observed, that if any of them happened accidentally
to be interrupted, they never found the smallest difficulty in
recovering the proper place of the dance or song. And their perfect
discipline was in no instance more remarkable, than in the sudden
transitions they so dexterously made from the ruder exertions, and harsh
sounds, to the softest airs, and gentlest movements.[161]

[Footnote 161: In a former note, it was observed, that the songs and
dances of the Caroline Islanders, in the North Pacific, bear a great
resemblance to those of the inhabitants of Wateeoo. The remark may be
now extended to those of the Friendly Islanders, described at large in
this chapter. That the reader may judge for himself, I have selected the
following particulars from Father Cantova's account. "Pendant la nuit,
au clair de la lune, ils s'assemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter &
danser devant la maison de leur _Tumole_. Leurs danses se font au son de
la voix, car ils n'ont point d'instrument de musique. La beaute de la
danse, consiste dans l'exacte uniformite des mouvemens du corps. Les
hommes, separes des femmes, se postent vis-a-vis les uns des autres;
apres quoi, ils remuent la tete, les bras, les mains, les pieds, en
cadence. Leur tete est couverte de plumes, on de fleurs;--et l'on voit,
attachees a leurs oreilles, des feuilles de palmier tissues avec assez
d'art--Les femmes, de leur cote,--se regardant les unes les autres,
commencent un chant pathetique & langoureux, accompagnant le son de leur
voix du mouvement cadence de la tete & des bras."--_Lettres Edifiantes &
Curiesues_, tom. xv. p. 314, 315.--D.]

The place where the dances were performed was an open space amongst the
trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, placed round
the inside of the circle. The concourse of people was pretty large,
though not equal to the number assembled in the forenoon, when the
marines exercised. At that time, some of our gentlemen guessed there
might be present about five thousand persons; others thought there were
more; but they who reckoned that there were fewer, probably, came nearer
the truth.


SECTION VI.

_Description of Lefooga.--Its cultivated State.--Its
Extent.--Transactions there.--A female Oculist.--Singular Expedients for
shaving off the Hair.--The Ships change their Station.--A remarkable
Mount and Stone.--Inscription of Hoolaiva.--Account of Poulaho, King of
the friendly Islands.--Respectful Manner in which he is treated by his
People.--Departure from the Hapaee Islands.--Some Account of
Kotoo.--Return of the Ships to Annamooka.--Poulaho and Feenou
meet.--Arrival at Tongataboo._


Curiosity on both sides being now sufficiently gratified by the
exhibition of the various entertainments I have described, I began to
have time to look about me. Accordingly, next day (May 21) I took a walk
into the island of Lefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain some
knowledge. I found it to be, in several respects, superior to Annamooka.
The plantations were both more numerous and more extensive. In many
places, indeed, toward the sea, especially on the east side, the country
is still waste, owing perhaps to the sandy soil, as it is much lower
than Annamooka, and its surrounding isles. But toward the middle of the
island the soil is better; and the marks of considerable population, and
of improved cultivation, were very conspicuous. For we met here with
very large plantations, inclosed in such a manner that the fences,
running parallel to each other, form fine spacious public roads, that
would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences have been
carried to the greatest perfection. We observed large spots covered with
the paper mulberry-trees; and the plantations, in general, were well
stocked with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the
island. To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of Indian
corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house, four or
five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of
grass before it; and I take it for granted, the people resort thither on
certain public occasions. Near the landing-place we saw a mount, two or
three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it stood four or five small
huts, in which the natives told us the bodies of some of their principal
people had been interred.

The island is not above seven miles long, and in some places not above
two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to the
trade-wind, has a reef running to a considerable breadth from it, on
which the sea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this
reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile distant;
and at low water the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then
partly dry from the one island to the other. The shore itself is either
a coral rock, six or seven feet high, or a sandy beach, but higher than
the west side, which in general is not more than three or four feet from
the level of the sea, with a sandy beach its whole length.

When I returned from my excursion into the country, and went on board
to dinner, I found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship's stern. In
this canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had seen at Tongataboo during my
last voyage, and who was then supposed by us to be the king of that
island. He sat in the canoe with all that gravity, by which, as I have
mentioned in my journal,[162] he was so remarkably distinguished at that
time; nor could I, by any entreaties, prevail upon him now to come into
the ship. Many of the islanders were present, and they all called him
_Areekee_, which signifies king. I had never heard any one of them give
this title to Feenou, however extensive his authority over them, both
here and at Annamooka, had appeared to be, which had all along inclined
me to suspect that he was not the king, though his friend Taipa had
taken pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula remained under the
stern till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the
islands. Feenou was on board my ship at the same time; but neither of
these great men took the least notice of the other.

[Footnote 162: The name of this extraordinary personage is there said to
be _Kohagee too Fallangou_, which cannot, by the most skilful
etymologist, be tortured into the least most distant resemblance of
_Latooliboula_. It is remarkable that Captain Cook should not take any
notice of his having called the same person by two names so very
different. Perhaps we may account for this, by supposing one to be the
name of the person, and the other the description of his title or rank.
This supposition seems well founded, when we consider that _Latoo_, in
the language of these people, is sometimes used to signify a great
chief; and Dr Forster, in his Observations, p. 378, 379, and elsewhere,
speaks of the sovereign of Tongataboo under the title of their _Latoo_.
This very person is called by Dr Forster, p. 370, _Latoo-Nipooroo_,
which furnishes a very striking instance of the variations of our people
in writing down the same word as pronounced by the natives. However, we
can easily trace the affinity between _Nipooroo_ and _Liboula_, as the
changes of the consonants are such as are perpetually made upon hearing
a word pronounced to which our ears have not been accustomed. Mr
Anderson here agrees with Captain Cook in writing Latooliboula.--D.]

Nothing material happened the next day, except that some of the natives
stole a tarpaulin, and other things, from off the deck. They were soon
missed, and the thieves pursued, but a little too late. I applied,
therefore, to Feenou, who, if he was not king, was at least vested with
the highest authority here to exert it, in order to have my things
restored. He referred me to Earoupa, who put me off from time to time,
and at last nothing was done.

In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to unmoor, in order to
leave the island, Feenou, and his prime minister Taipa, came alongside
in a sailing canoe, and informed me that they were setting out for
Vavaoo, an island which they said lies about two days sail to the
northward of Hepaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me
believe, was to get for me an additional supply of hogs, and some
red-feathered caps for Omai to carry to Otaheite, where they are in high
esteem. Feenou assured me that he should be back in four or five days,
and desired me not to sail till his return, when he promised he would
accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity to get
some knowledge of Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither with the
ships. But he seemed not to approve of the plan; and, by way of
diverting me from it, told me that there was neither harbour nor
anchorage about it. I therefore consented to wait, in my present
station, for his return, and he immediately set out.

The next day, our attention was for some time taken up with a report,
industriously spread about by some of the natives, that a ship like ours
had arrived at Annamooka since we left it, and was now at anchor there.
The propagators of the report were pleased to add, that Toobou, the
chief of that island, was hastening thither to receive these new comers;
and as we knew that he had actually left us, we were the more ready to
believe there might be some foundation for the story of this unexpected
arrival. However, to gain some farther information, I went on shore with
Omai, in quest of the man who, it was said, had brought the first
account of this event from Annamooka. We found him at the house of
Earoupa, where Omai put such questions to him as I thought necessary;
and the answers he gave were so clear and satisfactory, that I had not a
doubt remaining. But, just about this time, a chief of some note, whom
we well knew, arrived from Annamooka, and declared that no ship was at
that island, nor had been, since our leaving it. The propagator of the
report, finding himself detected in a falsehood, instantly withdrew, and
we saw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could answer
was not easy to conjecture, unless we suppose it to have been artfully
contrived, to get us removed from the one island to the other.

In my walk on the 25th, I happened to step into a house, where a woman
was dressing the eyes of a young child, who seemed blind, the eyes being
much inflamed, and a thin film spread over them. The instruments she
used were two slender wooden probes, with which she had brushed the eyes
so as to make them bleed. It seems worth mentioning, that the natives of
these islands should attempt an operation of this sort, though I entered
the house too late to describe exactly how this female oculist employed
the wretched tools she had to work with.

I was fortunate enough to see a different operation going on in the same
house, of which I can give a tolerable account. I found there another
woman shaving a child's head, with a shark's tooth, stuck into the end
of a piece of stick. I observed that she first wetted the hair with a
rag dipped in water, applying her instrument to that part which she had
previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child,
although the hair was taken off as close as if one of our razors had
been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of
these singular instruments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent
_succedaneum_. However, the men of these islands have recourse to
another contrivance when they shave their beards. The operation is
performed with two shells, one of which they place under a small part of
the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part off.
In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is,
indeed, rather tedious, but not painful; and there are men amongst them
who seemed to profess this trade. It was as common, while we were here,
to see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped off, after the
fashion of Hepaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be
shaved by our barbers.

Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was now
brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and to wait
Feenou's return from Vavaoo, in some other convenient anchoring-place,
where refreshments might still be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon
of the 26th, we got under sail, and stood to the southward along the
reef of the island, having fourteen and thirteen, fathoms water, with a
sandy bottom. However, we met with several detached shoals. Some of them
were discovered by breakers, some by the water upon them appearing
discoloured, and others by the lead. At half past two in the afternoon
having already passed several of these shoals, and seeing more of them
before us, I hauled into a bay that lies between the S. end of Lefooga
and the N. end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in seventeen fathoms
water, the bottom a coral sand; the point of Lefooga bearing S.E. by E.
a mile and a half distant. The Discovery did not get to an anchor till
sunset. She had touched upon one of the shoals, but backed off again
without receiving any damage.

As soon as we had anchored, I sent Mr Bligh to sound the bay where we
were now stationed; and myself, accompanied by Mr Gore, landed on the
southern part of Lefooga, to examine the country, and to look for fresh
water. Not that we now wanted a supply of this article, having filled
all the casks at our late station; but I had been told that this part of
the island could afford us some preferable to any we had got at the
former watering-place. This will not be the only time I shall have
occasion to remark that these people do not know what good water is. We
were conducted to two wells, but the water in both of them proved to be
execrable, and the natives, our guides, assured us that they had none
better.

Near the S. end of the island, and on the W. side, we met with an
artificial mount. From the size of some trees that were growing upon it,
and from other appearances, I guessed that it had been raised in remote
times. I judged it to be about forty feet high, and the diameter of its
summit measured fifty feet. At the bottom of this mount stood a stone,
which must have been hewn out of coral rock. It was four feet broad, two
and a half thick, and fourteen high; and we were told by the natives
present that not above half its length appeared above ground. They
called it _Tangata Arekee_,[163] and said that it had been set up, and
the mount raised, by some of their forefathers, in memory of one of
their kings, but how long since they could not tell.

[Footnote 163: _Tangata,_ in their language, is man; _Arekee_, king.]

Night coming on, Mr Gore and I returned on board; and, at the same time,
Mr Bligh got back from sounding the bay, in which he found from fourteen
to twenty fathoms water, the bottom for the most part sand, but not
without some coral rocks. The place where we now anchored is much
better sheltered than that which we had lately come from; but between
the two is another anchoring station, much better than either. Lefooga
and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which
is dry at low water; so that one may walk at that time from the one to
the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our gentlemen, who landed in
the latter island, did not find the least mark of cultivation, or
habitation, upon it, except a single hut, the residence of a man
employed to catch fish and turtle. It is rather extraordinary that it
should be in this deserted state, communicating so immediately with
Lefooga, which is so perfectly cultivated; for though the soil is quite
sandy, all the trees and plants found in a natural state on the
neighbouring islands, are produced here with the greatest vigour. The E.
side of it has a reef like Lefooga, and the W. side has a bending at the
N. part, where there seems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva
is, an artificial mount, like that at the adjoining island, has been
raised upon it, as high as some of the surrounding trees.

At day-break, next morning, I made the signal to weigh; and as I
intended to attempt a passage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, by
the S.W. amongst the intervening islands, I sent the master in a boat to
sound before the ships. But before we could get under sail the wind
became unsettled, which made it unsafe to attempt a passage this way
till we were better acquainted with it. I therefore lay fast, and made
the signal for the master to return; and afterward sent him and the
master of the Discovery, each in a boat, with instructions to examine
the channels, as far as they could, allowing themselves time to get back
to the ships before the close of the day.

About noon a large sailing canoe came under our stern, in which was a
person named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both, who, as the natives then
on board told us, was King of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring
islands that we had seen or heard of. It was a matter of surprise to me
to have a stranger introduced under this character, which I had so much
reason to believe really belonged to another. But they persisted in
their account of the supreme dignity of this new visitor; and now, for
the first time, they owned to me, that Feenou was not the king, but only
a subordinate chief, though of great power, as he was often sent from
Tongataboo to the other islands on warlike expeditions, or to decide
differences. It being my interest, as well as my inclination, to pay
court to all the great men, without making enquiry into the validity of
their assumed titles, I invited Poulaho on board, as I understood he was
very desirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome guest, for he
brought with him, as a present to me, two good fat hogs, though not so
fat as himself, if weight of body could give weight in rank and power,
he was certainly the most eminent man in that respect we had seen; for,
though not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless with
corpulence. He seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight hair,
and his features differed a good deal from those of the bulk of his
people. I found him to be a sedate, sensible man. He viewed the ship,
and the several new objects, with uncommon attention, and asked many
pertinent questions, one of which was, What could induce us to visit
these islands? After he had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the
cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I desired him
to walk down into the cabin. To this some of his attendants objected,
saying, that if he were to accept of that invitation, it must happen,
that people would walk over his head, which could not be permitted. I
directed my interpreter Omai, to tell them that I would obviate their
objection, by giving orders that no one should presume to walk upon that
part of the deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would
have satisfied them was far from appearing, but the chief himself, less
scrupulous in this respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and
walked down without any stipulation. He now appeared to be as solicitous
himself, as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not
Feenou, who had passed with us as such; for he soon perceived that we
had some doubts about it, which doubts Omai was not very desirous of
removing. The closest connection had been formed between him and Feenou,
in testimony of which they had exchanged names; and therefore he was not
a little chagrined, that another person now put in his claim to the
honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed.

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