A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18)

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But the strongest proof of the increase, and from the cause we have
assigned, was the gentle gradation observable in the plants round the
skirts of the islands; from within a few inches of high-water mark to
the edge of the wood. In many places, the divisions of the plants of
different growths were very distinguishable, especially on the lee or
west side. This I apprehend to have been the operation of extraordinary
high tides, occasioned by violent, accidental gales from the westward,
which have heaped up the sand beyond the reach of common tides. The
regular and gentle operation of these latter, again, throw up sand
enough to form a barrier against the next extraordinary high tide or
storm, so as to prevent its reaching as far as the former had done, and
destroying the plants that may have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts,
roots, and seed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the sea. This,
doubtless, happens very frequently, for we found many cocoa-nuts, and
some other things, just sprouting up, only a few inches beyond where the
sea reaches at present, in places where it was evident they could not
have had their origin from those farther in, already arrived at their
full growth. At the same time, the increase of vegetables will add fast
to the height of this new-created land, as the fallen leaves and broken
branches are, in such a climate, soon converted into a true black mould
or soil.[157]

[Footnote 157: Mr Anderson, in his journal, mentions the following
particulars relative to Palmerston's Island, which strongly confirm
Captain Cook's opinion about its formation. "On the last of the two
islets, where we landed, the trees, being in great numbers, had already
formed, by their rotten parts, little risings or eminences, which in
time, from the same cause, may become small hills. Whereas, on the first
islet, the trees being less numerous, no such thing had as yet happened.
Nevertheless, on that little spot the manner of formation was more
plainly pointed out; for, adjoining to it was a small isle, which had
doubtless been very lately formed, as it was not as yet covered with any
trees, but had a great many shrubs, some of which were growing among
pieces of coral that the sea had thrown up. There was still a more sure
proof of this method of formation a little farther on, where two patches
of sand, about fifty yards long, and a foot or eighteen inches high, lay
upon the reef, but not as yet furnished with a single bush or tree."--D.

In a former volume we quoted a passage from Dr Forster's observations
respecting the formation of coral islands. Captain Flinders gives a
similar account in vol. ii. p. 114, of his voyage, drawn up from his own
observations on Half-way Island, on the north coast of Terra Australis.
It is too long for this place. The reader will find it transcribed,
together with Forster's, in the notes to the translation of Cuvier's
work, already referred to.--E.]

Perhaps there is another cause, which, if allowed, will accelerate the
increase of these islands as much as any other, and will also account
for the sea having receded from those elevated rocks before mentioned.
This is the spreading of the coral bank, or reef, into the sea, which,
in my opinion, is continually, though imperceptibly, effected. The waves
receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height, leave a dry rock
behind, ready for the reception of the broken coral and sand, and every
other deposit necessary for the formation of land fit for the vegetation
of plants.

In this manner, there is little doubt, that in time the whole reef will
become one island; and, I think, it will extend gradually inward, either
from the increase of the islets already formed, or from the formation of
new ones upon the beds of coral within the inclosed lake, if once they
increase so as to rise above the level of the sea.

After leaving Palmerston's Island, I steered W., with a view to make the
best of my way to Annamooka. We still continued to have variable winds,
frequently between the N. and W., with squalls, some thunder, and much
rain. During these showers, which were generally very copious, we saved
a considerable quantity of water; and finding that we could get a
greater supply by the rain in one hour than we could get by distillation
in a month, I laid aside the still as a thing attended with more trouble
than profit.

The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more
disagreeable in this close rainy weather; and, from the moisture
attending it, threatened soon to be noxious, as the ships could not be
kept dry, nor the skuttles open, for the sea. However, it is remarkable
enough, that though the only refreshment we had received since leaving
the Cape of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, there was not as yet a
single person on board sick from the constant use of salt food, or
vicissitude of climate.

In the night between the 24th and 25th we passed Savage Island, which I
had discovered in 1774; and on the 28th, at ten o'clock in the morning,
we got sight of the islands which lie to the eastward of Annamooka,
bearing N. by W. about four or five leagues distant. I steered to the S.
of these islands, and then hauled up for Annamooka, which, at four in
the afternoon, bore N.W. by N., Fallafajeea S.W. by S., and Komango N.
by W., distant about five miles. The weather being squally, with rain, I
anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen fathoms deep water, over
a bottom of coral-sand and shells, Komango bearing N.W. about two
leagues distant.

SECTION IV.

_Intercourse with the Natives of Komango, and other Islands.--Arrival at
Annamooka.--Transactions there.--Feenou, a principal Chief, from
Tongataboo, comes on a Visit.--The Manner of his Reception in the
Island, and on board.--Instances of the pilfering Disposition of the
Natives.--Some Account of Annamooka.--The Passage from it to Hapaee_.

Soon after we had anchored, (April 28) two canoes, the one with four,
and the other with three men, paddled toward us, and came alongside
without the least hesitation. They brought some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit,
plantains, and sugar-cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of
the men came on board; and when these canoes had left us, another
visited us; but did not stay long, as night was approaching. Komango,
the island nearest to us, was, at least, five miles off; which shews the
hazard these people would run, in order to possess a few of our most
trifling articles. Besides this supply from the shore, we caught, this
evening, with hooks and lines, a considerable quantity of fish.

Next morning, at four o'clock, I sent Lieutenant King, with two boats,
to Komango, to procure refreshments; and, at five, made the signal to
weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at
N.W.

It was no sooner day-light, than we were visited by six or seven canoes
from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots,
two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large
violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for beads,
nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce; such as
pieces of their cloth, fish-hooks, small baskets, musical reeds, and
some clubs, spears, and bows. But I ordered, that no curiosities should
be purchased, till the ships should be supplied with provisions, and
leave given for that purpose. Knowing also, from experience, that, if
all our people might trade with the natives, according to their own
caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I ordered that particular
persons should manage the traffic both on board and on shore,
prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day, Mr King's boat
returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for
ourselves, and some grass for the cattle. His party was very civilly
treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous; and
their huts, which stood close to each other, within a plantain wall,
were but indifferent. Not far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh
water, tolerably good; but there was not any appearance of a stream.
With Mr King, came on board the chief of the island, named
Touboulangee; and another, whose name was Taipa. They brought with them
a hog, as a present to me, and promised more the next day.

As soon as the boats were aboard, I stood for Annamooka; and the wind
being scant, I intended to go between Annamooka-ette,[158] and the
breakers to the S.E. of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very
irregular soundings, varying, every cast, ten or twelve fathoms. This
obliged me to give up the design, and to go to the southward of all;
which carried us to leeward, and made it necessary to spend the night
under sail. It was very dark; and we had the wind, from every direction,
accompanied with heavy showers of rain. So that, at day-light the next
morning, we found ourselves much farther off than we had been the
evening before; and the little wind that now blew, was right in our
teeth.

[Footnote 158: That is, Little Annamooka.]

We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpose; and, in the
evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water; the bottom coral rocks,
and broken shells; the west point of Annamooka bearing E.N.E., four
miles distant. Touboulangee and Taipa kept their promise, and brought
off to me some hogs. Several others were also procured by bartering,
from different canoes that followed us; and as much fruit as we could
well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole day, our visitors
from the islands would hardly part with any of their commodities to any
body but me. Captain Clerke did not get above one or two hogs.

At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and
sent the master to sound the S.W. side of Annamooka; where there
appeared to be a harbour, formed by the island on the N.E., and by small
islets, and shoals, to the S.W. and S.E. In the mean time, the ships
were got under sail, and wrought up to the island. When the master
returned, he reported, that he had sounded between Great and Little
Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of water, the
bottom coral sand; that the place was very well sheltered from all
winds; but that there was no fresh water to be found, except at some
distance inland; and that, even there, little of it was to be got, and
that little not good. For this reason only, and it was a very
sufficient one, I determined to anchor on the north side of the island,
where, during my last voyage, I had found a place fit both for watering
and landing.

It was not above a league distant; and yet we did not reach it till five
o'clock in the afternoon, being considerably retarded by the great
number of canoes that continually crowded round the ships, bringing to
us abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Amongst these
canoes there were some double ones, with a large sail, that carried
between forty and fifty men each. These sailed round us, apparently,
with the same ease as if we had been at anchor. There were several women
in the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by curiosity to visit us;
though, at the same time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and used
the paddle with equal labour and dexterity; I came to an anchor in
eighteen fathoms water, the bottom coarse coral sand; the island
extending from E. to S.W.; and the W. point of the westernmost cove
S.E., about three quarters of a mile distant. Thus I resumed the very
same station which I had occupied when I visited Annamooka three years
before; and, probably, almost in the same place where Tasman, the first
discoverer of this, and some of the neighbouring islands, anchored in
1643.

The following day, while preparations were making for watering, I went
ashore, in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke, and some of the
officers, to fix on a place where the observatories might be set up, and
a guard be stationed; the natives having readily given us leave. They
also accommodated us with a boat-house, to serve as a tent, and shewed
us every other mark of civility. Toobou, the chief of the island,
conducted me and Omai to his house. We found it situated on a pleasant
spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grass-plot surrounded it,
which, he gave us to understand, was for the purpose of cleaning their
feet, before they went within doors. I had not, before, observed such an
instance of attention to cleanliness at any of the places I had visited
in this ocean; but, afterward, found that it was very common at the
Friendly Islands. The floor of Toobou's house was covered with mats; and
no carpet, in the most elegant English drawing-room, could be kept
neater. While we were on shore, we procured a few hogs, and some fruit,
by bartering; and, before we got on board again, the ships were crowded
with the natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every necessary
refreshment was now in the greatest plenty.

I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines; and, at the
same time, the horses, and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state,
were sent on shore. Every thing being settled to my satisfaction, I
returned to the ship at sunset, leaving the command upon the island to
Mr King. Taipa, who was now become our fast friend, and who seemed to be
the only active person about us, in order to be near our party in the
night, as well as the day, had a house brought, on men's shoulders, a
full quarter of a mile, and placed close to the shed which our party
occupied.

Next day, our various operations on shore began. Some were employed in
making hay for the cattle; others in filling our water-casks at the
neighbouring stagnant pool; and a third party in cutting wood. The
greatest plenty of this last article being abreast of the ships, and in
a situation the most convenient for getting it on board, it was natural
to make choice of this. But the trees here, which our people erroneously
supposed to be manchineel, but were a species of pepper, called
_faitanoo_ by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of so
corrosive a nature, that it raised blisters on the skin, and injured the
eyes of our workmen. They were, therefore, obliged to desist at this
place, and remove to the cove, in which our guard was stationed, and
where we embarked our water. Other wood, more suitable to our purposes,
was there furnished to us by the natives. These were not the only
employments we were engaged in, for Messrs King and Bayly began, this
day, to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in order to get the rate of
the timekeepers. In the evening, before the natives retired from our
post, Taipa harangued them for some time. We could only guess at the
subject; and judged, that he was instructing them how to behave toward
us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of the island to market.
We experienced the good effects of his eloquence, in the plentiful
supply of provisions which, next day, we received.

Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and 5th, except that, on the
former of these days, the Discovery lost her small bower-anchor, the
cable being cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it necessary
to examine the cables of the Resolution, which were found to be unhurt.

On the 6th, we were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose
name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce to us as King
of all the Friendly Isles. I was now told, that, on my arrival, a canoe
had been dispatched to Tongataboo with the news; in consequence of
which, this chief immediately passed over to Annamooka. The officer on
shore informed me, that when he first arrived, all the natives were
ordered out to meet him, and paid their obeisance by bowing their heads
as low as his feet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand,
first with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little
room to suspect that a person, received with so much respect, could be
any thing less than the king.

In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a visit, having first
received a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his
servants. As soon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about
thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European
features, than any I had yet seen here. When the first salutation was
over, I asked if he was the king. For, notwithstanding what I had been
told, finding he was not the man whom I remembered to have seen under
that character during my former voyage, I began to entertain doubts.
Taipa officially answered for him, and enumerated no less than one
hundred and fifty-three islands, of which, he said, Feenou was the
sovereign. After a short stay, our new visitor, and five, or six of his
attendants, accompanied me on board. I gave suitable presents to them
all, and entertained them in such a manner, as I thought would be most
agreeable.

In the evening, I attended them on shore in my boat, into which the
chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents he had
received from me. I was now informed of an accident which had just
happened, the relation of which will convey some idea of the extent of
the authority exercised here over the common people. While Feenou was on
board my ship, an inferior chief, for what reason our people on shore
did not know, ordered all the natives to retire from the post we
occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took up a large
stick, and beat them most unmercifully. He struck one man on the side of
the face, with so much violence, that the blood gushed out of his mouth
and nostrils; and, after lying some time motionless, he was, at last,
removed from the place, in convulsions. The person who had inflicted the
blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it; and, it
was evident, that he was not in the least sorry for what had happened.
We heard, afterward, that the poor sufferer recovered.

The Discovery having found again her small bower anchor, shifted her
birth on the 7th; but not before her best bower cable had shared the
fate of the other. This day I had the company of Feenou at dinner; and
also the next day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toubou, and some other
chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was allowed to sit at
table with him, or even to eat in his presence. I own that I considered
Feenou as a very convenient guest, on account of this etiquette. For,
before his arrival, I had, generally, a larger company than I could well
find room for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both sexes. For it
is not the custom at the Friendly Islands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny
to their females the privilege of eating in company with the men.

The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had
stolen, out of the ship, a large junk axe. I now applied to Feenou to
exert his authority to get it restored to me; and so implicitly was he
obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. These
people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert
thieves they were. Even some of their chiefs did not think this
profession beneath them. On the 9th, one of them was detected carrying
out of the ship, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the
spun-yarn winch; for which I sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes,
and kept him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this, we
were not troubled with thieves of rank. Their servants, or slaves,
however, were still employed in this dirty work; and upon them a
flogging seemed to make no greater impression, than it would have done
upon the main-mast. When any of them happened to be caught in the act,
their masters, far from interceding for them, would often advise us to
kill them. As this was a punishment we did not choose to inflict, they
generally escaped without any punishment at all; for they appeared to us
to be equally insensible of the shame and of the pain of corporal
chastisement. Captain Clerke, at last, hit upon a mode of treatment,
which, we thought, had some effect. He put them under the hands of the
barber, and completely shaved their heads; thus pointing them out as
objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and enabling our people to
deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their
rogueries, by keeping them at a distance.

Feenou was so fond of associating with us, that he dined on board every
day; though, sometimes, he did not partake of our fare. On the 10th,
some of his servants brought a mess, which had been dressed for him on
shore. It consisted of fish, soup, and yams. Instead of common water to
make the soup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made use of, in which the fish
had been boiled or stewed; probably in a wooden vessel, with hot stones;
but it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tasted of the mess,
and found it so good, that I, afterward, had some fish dressed in the
same way. Though my cook succeeded tolerably well, he could produce
nothing equal to the dish he imitated.

Finding that we had quite exhausted the island of almost every article
of food that it afforded, I employed the 11th in moving off, from the
shore, the horses, observatories, and other things that we had landed,
as also the party of marines who had mounted guard at our station,
intending to sail, as soon as the Discovery should have recovered her
best bow anchor. Feenou, understanding that I meant to proceed directly
to Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this plan, to which he
expressed as much aversion, as if he had some particular interest to
promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly
recommended an island, or rather a group of islands, called Hepaee,
lying to the N.E. There, he assured us, we could be supplied plentifully
with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; and, to add weight to his
advice, he engaged to attend us thither in person. He carried his point
with me; and Hepaee was made choice of for our next station. As it had
never been visited by any European ships, the examination of it became
an object with me.

The 12th and the 13th were spent in attempting the recovery of Captain
Clerke's anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily accomplished;
and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under sail, and left Annamooka.

This island is somewhat higher than the other small isles that surround
it; but, still, it cannot be admitted to the rank of those of a moderate
height, such as Mangeea and Wateeoo. The shore, at that part where our
ships lay, is composed of a steep, rugged, coral rock, nine or ten feet
high, except where there are two sandy beaches, which have a reef of the
same sort of rock extending cross their entrance to the shore, and
defending them from the sea. The salt-water lake that is in the centre
of the island, is about a mile and a half broad; and round it the land
rises like a bank, with a gradual ascent. But we could not trace its
having any communication with the sea. And yet, the land that runs
across to it, from the largest sandy beach, being flat and low, and the
soil sandy, it is most likely that it may have, formerly, communicated
that way. The soil on the rising parts of the island, and especially
toward the sea, is either of a reddish clayey disposition, or a black,
loose mould; but there is, no where, any stream of fresh water.

The island is very well cultivated, except in a few places; and there
are some others, which, though they appear to lie waste, are only left
to recover the strength exhausted by constant culture; for we frequently
saw the natives at work upon these spots, to plant them again. The
plantations consist chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are very
extensive, and often inclosed with neat fences of reed, disposed
obliquely across each other, about six feet high. Within these we often
saw other fences of less compass, surrounding the houses of the
principal people. The breadfruit, and cocoa-nut trees, are interspersed
with little order, but chiefly near the habitations of the natives; and
the other parts of the island, especially toward the sea, and about the
sides of the lake, are covered with trees and bushes of a most luxuriant
growth; the last place having a great many mangroves, and the first a
vast number of the _faitanoo_ trees already mentioned. There seem to be
no rocks or stones, of any kind, about the island, that are not coral,
except in one place, to the right of the sandy beach, where there is a
rock twenty or thirty feet high, of a calcareous stone, of a yellowish
colour, and a very close texture. But even about that place, which is
the highest part of the land, are large pieces of the same coral rock
that composes the shore.

Besides walking frequently up into the country, which we were permitted
to do without interruption, we sometimes amused ourselves in shooting
wild-ducks, not unlike the widgeon, which are very numerous upon the
salt lake, and the pool where we got our water. In these excursions, we
found the inhabitants had often deserted their houses to come down to
the trading place, without entertaining any suspicion, that strangers,
rambling about, would take away, or destroy, any thing that belonged to
them. But though, from this circumstance, it might be supposed that the
greater part of the natives were sometimes collected at the beach, it
was impossible to form any accurate computation of their number; as the
continual resort of visitors from other islands, mixing with them, might
easily mislead one. However, as there was never, to appearance, above a
thousand persons collected at one time, it would, perhaps, be sufficient
to allow double that number for the whole island.