A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18)

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They were, in general, so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer us to
come near enough to knock them down with sticks; but the large ones we
shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. We also found on the island
abundance of penguins and shags; and the latter had young ones almost
fledged, and just to our taste. Here were geese and ducks, but not many;
birds of prey, and a few small birds. In the evening we returned on
board, our boats well laden with one thing or other.[4]

[Footnote 4: "Having made some havock among the sea-lions, we walked
upon the summit of the island, which was nearly level, but covered with
innumerable little mounds of earth, on each of which grew a large tuft
of grass (_dactylis glomerata_). The intervals between these tufts were
very muddy and dirty, which obliged us to leap from one tuft to
another. We soon discovered that another kind of seals occupied this
part of the island, and caused the mud by coming out of the sea. These
were no other than the sea-bears which we had already seen at Dusky Bay,
but which were here infinitely more numerous, and grown to a much larger
size, equalling that assigned to them by Steller. They are, however, far
inferior to the sea-lions, the males being never above eight or nine
feet long, and thick in proportion. Their hair is dark-brown, minutely
sprinkled with grey, and much longer on the whole body than that of the
sea-lion, but does not form a mane. The general outline of the body, and
the shape of the fins, are exactly the same. They were more fierce
towards us, and their females commonly died in defence of their young.
We observed on another occasion, that these two species, though
sometimes encamped on the same beach, always kept at a great distance
asunder, and had no communication. A strong rank stench is common to
them, as well as to all other seals; a circumstance as well known to the
ancients, as their inactivity and drowsiness whilst they lie on shore--

Web-footed seals forsake the whitening waves,
And sleep in herds, exhaling nauseous stench.
HOMER.

Great numbers of a species of vultures, commonly called carrion crows by
the sailors (_vultur aura_), were seen upon this island, and probably
feed on young seal-cubs, which either die in the birth, or which they
take an opportunity to seize upon. Besides them we also found a new
species of hawks, and several geese of the sort which had so well
furnished out our Christmas entertainment. Here we likewise saw a few
penguins, of a species which we had not met with before, some large
petrels of the size of albatrosses, being the same species which the
Spaniards name _que-branta-huessos_, or the bone-breakers, and some
shags."--G.F.]

Next day, being January the 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was wanting
but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh
at, whom chance or design, might bring hither, I sent Mr Gilbert over to
Staten Land in the cutter to look for one. Appearances promised success
in a place opposite the ship. I also sent two other boats for the lions,
&c. we had killed the preceding day; and soon after I went myself, and
observed the sun's meridian altitude at the N.E. end of the island,
which gave the latitude 54 deg. 40' 5" S. After shooting a few geese, some
other birds, and plentifully supplying ourselves with young shags, we
returned on board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The old lions
and bears were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to
make oil of; for, except their haslets, which were tolerable, the flesh
was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs
were very palateable, and even the flesh of some of the old lionesses
was not much amiss, but that of the old males was abominable. In the
afternoon I sent some people on shore to skin and cut off the fat of
those which yet remained dead on shore, for we had already more carcases
on board than necessary; and I went myself, in another boat, to collect
birds. About ten o'clock Mr Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he
found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St
John, and in the direction of north, a little easterly, from the N.E.
end of the eastern island. It may be known by some small islands lying
in the entrance. The channel, which is on the east side of these
islands, is half a mile broad. The course is in S.W. by S., turning
gradually to W. by S. and W. The harbour lies nearly in this last
direction; is almost two miles in length; in some places near a mile
broad; and hath in it from fifty to ten fathoms water, a bottom of mud
and sand. Its shores are covered with wood fit for fuel; and in it are
several streams of fresh water. On the islands were sea-lions, &c. and
such an innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken the air when
disturbed, and almost to suffocate our people with their dung. This they
seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than assafoetida,
or what is commonly called devil's dung. Our people saw several geese,
ducks, and race-horses, which is also a kind of duck. The day on which
this port was discovered occasioned my calling it New-Year's Harbour. It
would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or round Cape
Horn, if its situation would permit them to put to sea with an easterly
and northerly wind. This inconvenience, however, is of little
consequence, since these winds are never known to be of long duration.
The southerly and westerly are the prevailing winds, so that a ship
never can be detained long in this port.[5]

[Footnote 5: "The largest of the New-Year's Islands, as we called them,
and which we now left, is about six leagues in circuit, and that under
which we lay at anchor, between three and four leagues. They are
excellent places of refreshment for a ship's crew bound on expeditions
like ours; for though the flesh of sea-lions and penguins is not the
most palateable food, yet it is infinitely more salubrious than salt
meat; and by searching the different islands, it is not improbable that
a sufficient quantity of celery and scurvy-grass might be found to
supply the whole crew, especially as we saw both the species on our
excursions. Our seamen lived several days on young shags and penguins,
of which they found the former extremely palateable, comparing them to
young pullets. They likewise roasted several little cubs of seals, but
there was a degree of softness in the meat which made it disgustful. The
flesh of young, but full-grown sea-bears, was greatly preferable, and
tasted like coarse and bad beef; but that of the old sea-lions and bears
was so rank and offensive, that we could not touch it."--G.F.]

As we could not sail in the morning of the 2d for want of wind, I sent a
party of men on shore to the island, on the same duty as before. Towards
noon we got a fresh breeze at west; but it came too late, and I resolved
to wait till the next morning, when, at four o'clock, we weighed, with a
fresh gale at N.W. by W., and stood for Cape St John, which, at half
past six, bore N. by E., distant four or five miles. This cape, being
the eastern point of Staten Land, a description of it is unnecessary. It
may, however, not be amiss to say, that it is a rock of a considerable
height, situated in the latitude of 54 deg. 46' S., longitude 63 deg. 47' W.,
with a rocky islet lying close under the north part of it. To the
westward of the cape, about five or six miles, is an inlet, which seemed
to divide the land, that is, to communicate with the sea to the south;
and between this inlet and the cape is a bay, but I cannot say of what
depth. In sailing round the cape we met with a very strong current from
the south: It made a race which looked like breakers; and it was as much
as we could do, with a strong gale, to make head against it.[6]

[Footnote 6: Captain Krusenstern, as has been noticed in vol. 12, page
413, verified Cook's longitude of Cape St John, having found it to agree
exactly with that pointed out by the watches on board his consort the
Neva, which differed but a few minutes from those in his own
vessel.--E.]

After getting round the cape, I hauled up along the south coast, and as
soon as we had brought the wind to blow off the land, it came upon us in
such heavy squalls as obliged us to double-reef our top-sails. It
afterwards fell, by little and little, and at noon ended in a calm. At
this time Cape St John bore N. 20 deg. E., distant three and a half leagues;
Cape St Bartholomew, or the S.W. point of Staten Land, S. 83 deg. W.; two
high detached rocks N. 80 deg. W.; and the place where the land seemed to be
divided, which had the same appearance on this side, bore N. 15 deg. W.
three leagues distant. Latitude observed 54 deg. 56'. In this situation we
sounded, but had no bottom with a line of 120 fathoms. The calm was of
very short duration, a breeze presently springing up at N.W.; but it was
too faint to make head against the current, and we drove with it back to
the N.N.E. At four o'clock the wind veered, at once, to S. by E., and
blew in squalls attended with rain. Two hours after, the squalls and
rain subsided, and the wind returning back to the west, blew a gentle
gale. All this time the current set us to the north, so that, at eight
o'clock, Cape St John bore W.N.W., distant about seven leagues. I now
gave over plying, and steered S.E., with a resolution to leave the land;
judging it to be sufficiently explored to answer the most general
purposes of navigation and geography.[7]

[Footnote 7: The very intelligent officer mentioned in the preceding
note, seems to have been very materially benefited by the observations
of Captain Cook, in navigating this quarter, and does not hesitate to
avow his obligations. An instance of this is recorded in our account of
Byron's voyage, vol. 12, p. 74, which refers to a passage in the next
section as to the currents losing their force at ten or twelve leagues
from land.--E.]

SECTION IV.

_Observations, geographical and nautical, with an Account of the Islands
near Staten Land, and the Animals found in them_.[8]

[Footnote 8: It has been thought advisable to retain this section
verbatim, although the references it makes to Captain Cook's chart can
scarcely be understood without that accompaniment, and several
observations of another sort which it contains, are given elsewhere. In
justice to the memory of Cook, it was resolved to preserve the whole of
his relation, at the risk of a very trivial repetition, which the
reader, it is believed, will be little disposed to resent.--E.]

The chart will very accurately shew the direction, extent, and position
of the coast, along which I have sailed, either in this or my former
voyage. The latitudes have been determined by the sun's meridian
altitude, which we were so fortunate as to obtain every day, except the
one we sailed from Christmas Sound, which was of no consequence, as its
latitude was known before. The longitudes have been settled by lunar
observations, as is already mentioned. I have taken 67 deg. 46' for the
longitude of Cape Horn. From this meridian the longitudes of all the
other parts are deduced by the watch, by which the extent of the whole
mast be determined to a few miles; and whatever errors there may be in
longitude, must be general. But I think it highly probable that the
longitude is determined to within a quarter of a degree. Thus the extent
of Terra del Fuego from east to west, and consequently that of the
straits of Magalhaens, will be found less than most navigators have made
it.

In order to illustrate this and to shew the situations of the
neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the chart of more general
use, I have extended it down to 47 deg. of latitude. But I am only
answerable for the accuracy of such parts as I have explored myself. In
laying down the rest I had recourse to the following authorities.

The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, which is the most essential point, as
it determines the length of the straits of Magalhaens, is deduced from
Lord Anson, who made 2 deg. 30' difference of longitude between it and the
Strait Le Maire. Now as the latter lies in 65 deg. 22', Cape Virgin-Mary
must lie in: 67 deg. 52', which is the longitude I have assigned to it, and
which, I have reason to think, cannot be far from the truth.

The strait of Magalhaens, and the east coast of Patagonia, are laid down
from the observations made by the late English and French navigators.

The position of the west coast of America, from Cape Victory northward,
I have taken from the discoveries of _Sarmiento_, a Spanish navigator,
communicated to me by Mr Stuart, F.R.S.

Falkland Islands are copied from a sketch taken from Captain M'Bride,
who circumnavigated them some years ago in his majesty's ship Jason; and
their distance from the main is agreeable to the run of the Dolphin,
under the command of Commodore Byron, from Cape Virgin Mary to Port
Egmont, and from Port Egmont to Port Desire, both of which runs were
made in a few days; consequently no material errors could happen.

The S.W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets, islands, &c.
may be compared to the coast of Norway; for I doubt if there be an
extent of three leagues where there is not an inlet or harbour which
will receive and shelter the largest shipping. The worst is, that till
these inlets are better known, one has, as it were, to fish for
anchorage. There are several lurking rocks on the coast, but happily
none of them lie far from land, the approach to which may be known by
sounding, supposing the weather so obscure that you cannot see it. For
to judge of the whole by the parts we have sounded, it is more than
probable that there are soundings all along the coast, and for several
leagues out to sea. Upon the whole, this is by no means the dangerous
coast it has been represented.

Staten Land lies near E. by N. and W. by S., and is ten leagues long in
that direction, and no where above three or four leagues broad. The
coast is rocky, much indented, and seemed to form several bays or
inlets. It shews a surface of craggy hills which spire up to a vast
height, especially near the west end. Except the craggy summits of the
hills, the greatest part was covered with trees and shrubs, or some sort
of herbage, and there was little or no snow on it. The currents between
Cape Deseada and Cape Horn set from west to east, that is, in the same
direction as the coast; but they are by no means considerable. To the
east of the cape their strength is much increased, and their direction
is N.E. towards Staten Land. They are rapid in Strait Le Maire and along
the south coast of Staten Land, and set like a torrent round Cape St
John; where they take a N.W. direction, and continue to run very strong
both within and without New Year's Isles. While we lay at anchor within
this island, I observed that the current was strongest during the flood;
and that on the ebb its strength was so much impaired, that the ship
would sometimes ride head to the wind when it was at W. and W.N.W. This
is only to be understood of the place where the ship lay at anchor, for
at the very time we had a strong current setting to the westward, Mr
Gilbert found one of equal strength near the coast of Staten Land
setting to the eastward, though probably this was an eddy current or
tide.

If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the shore at
this place on the days of the new and full moon, about four o'clock. The
perpendicular rise and fall is very inconsiderable, not exceeding four
feet at most. In Christmas Sound it is high-water at half past two
o'clock on the days of the full and change, and Mr Wales observed it to
rise and fall on a perpendicular three feet six inches; but this was
during the neap tides, consequently the spring tides must rise higher.
To give such an account of the tides and currents on these coasts as
navigators might depend on, would require a multitude of observations,
and in different places, the making of which would be a work of time. I
confess myself unprovided with materials for such a task; and believe
that the less I say on this subject the fewer mistakes I shall make. But
I think I have been able to observe, that in Strait Le Maire the
southerly tide or current, be it flood or ebb, begins to act on the days
of new and full moon about four o'clock, which remark may be of use to
ships who pass the strait.

Were I bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or
water, or any other thing that might make it necessary to put into port,
I would not come near the land at all. For by keeping out at sea you
avoid the currents, which, I am satisfied, lose their force at ten or
twelve leagues from land; and at a greater distance, there is none.

During the time we were upon the coast we had more calms than storms,
and the winds so variable, that I question if a passage might not have
been made from east to west in as short a time as from west to east; nor
did we experience any cold weather. The mercury in the thermometer at
noon was never below 46 deg.; and while we lay in Christmas Sound it was
generally above temperate. At this place the variation was 23 deg. 30' E.; a
few leagues to the S. W. of Strait Le Maire it was 24 deg.; and at anchor,
within New Year's Isles, it was 24 deg. 20' E.

These isles are, in general, so unlike Staten Land, especially the one
on which we landed, that it deserves a particular description. It shews
a surface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty feet above
the sea, from which it is defended by a rocky coast. The inner part of
the isle is covered with a sort of sword-grass, very green, and of a
great length. It grows on little hillocks of two or three feet in
diameter, and as many or more in height, in large tufts, which seemed to
be composed of the roots of the plant matted together. Among these
hillocks are a vast number of paths made by sea-bears and penguins, by
which they retire into the centre of the isle. It is, nevertheless,
exceedingly bad travelling; for these paths are so dirty that one is
sometimes up to the knees in mire. Besides this plant, there are a few
other grasses, a kind of heath, and some celery. The whole surface is
moist and wet, and on the coast are several small streams of water. The
sword-grass, as I call it, seems to be the same that grows in Falkland
Isles, described by Bougainville as a kind of _gladiolus_, or rather a
species of _gramen_[9] and named by Pernety corn-flags.

[Footnote 9: See English Translation of Bougainville, p. 51.]

The animals found on this little spot are sea-lions, sea-bears, a
variety of oceanic, and some land-birds. The sea-lion is pretty well
described by Pernety, though those we saw here have not such fore-feet
or fins as that he has given a plate of, but such fins as that which he
calls the sea-wolf. Nor did we see any of the size he speaks of; the
largest not being more than twelve or fourteen feet in length, and
perhaps eight or ten in circumference. They are not of that kind
described under the same name by Lord Anson; but, for aught I know,
these would more properly deserve that appellation: The long hair, with
which the back of the head, the neck and shoulders, are covered, giving
them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. The other part of the
body is covered with short hair, little longer than that of a cow or a
horse, and the whole is a dark-brown. The female is not half so big as
the male, and is covered with a short hair of an ash or light-dun
colour. They live, as it were, in herds, on the rocks, and near the
sea-shore. As this was the time for engendering as well as bringing
forth their young, we have seen a male with twenty or thirty females
about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himself, and
beating off every other male who attempted to come into his flock.
Others again had a less number; some no more than one or two; and here
and there we have seen one lying growling in a retired, place, alone,
and suffering neither males nor females to approach him: We judged these
were old and superannuated.

The sea-bears are not so large, by far, as the lions, but rather larger
than a common seal. They have none of that long hair which distinguishes
the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and finer than that of the
lion, something like an otter's, and the general colour is that of an
iron-grey. This is the kind which the French call sea-wolfs, and the
English seals; they are, however, different from the seals we have in
Europe and North America. The lions may, too, without any great
impropriety, be called over-grown seals; for they are all of the same
species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them, for they either
fled or lay still. The only danger was in going between them and the
sea; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in such
numbers, that, if you could not get out of their way, you would be run
over. Sometimes, when we came suddenly upon them, or waked them out of
their sleep, (for they are a sluggish sleepy animal), they would raise
up their heads; snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to
devour us; but as we advanced upon them they always run away, so that
they are downright bullies.

The penguin is an amphibious bird, so well known to most people, that I
shall only observe, they are here in prodigious numbers, so that we
could knock down as many as we pleased with a stick. I cannot say they
are good eating. I have indeed made several good meals of them, but it
was for want of better victuals. They either do not breed here, or else
this was not the season; for we saw neither eggs nor young ones.

Shags breed here in vast numbers; and we carried on board not a few, as
they are very good eating. They take certain spots to themselves, and
build their nests near the edge of the cliffs on little hillocks, which
are either those of the sword-grass, or else they are made by the shags
building on them from year to year. There is another sort rather smaller
than these, which breed in the cliffs of rocks.

The geese are of the same sort we found in Christmas Sound; we saw but
few, and some had young ones. Mr Forster shot one which was different
from these, being larger, with a grey plumage, and black feet. The
others make a noise exactly like a duck. Here were ducks, but not many;
and several of that sort which we called race-horses. We shot some, and
found them to weigh twenty-nine or thirty pounds; those who eat of them
said they were very good.

The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown
bird, of the size of an albatross, which Pernety calls quebrantahuessas.
We called them Mother Carey's geese, and found them pretty good eating;
The land-birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what our
seamen called turkey-buzzards, thrushes, and a few other small birds.

Our naturalists found two new species of birds. The one is about the
size of a pigeon, the plumage as white as milk. They feed along-shore,
probably on shell-fish and carrion, for they have a very disagreeable
smell. When we first saw these birds we thought they were the
snow-peterel, but the moment they were in our possession the mistake was
discovered; for they resemble them in nothing but size and colour. These
are not webb-footed. The other sort is a species of curlews nearly as
big as a heron. It has a variegated plumage, the principal colours
whereof are light-grey, and a long crooked bill.

I had almost forgot to mention that there are sea-pies, or what we
called, when in New Zealand, curlews; but we only saw a few straggling
pairs. It may not be amiss to observe, that the shags are the same bird
which Bougainville calls saw-bills; but he is mistaken in saying that
the quebrantahuessas are their enemies; for this bird is of the peterel
tribe, feeds wholly on fish, and is to be found in all the high southern
latitudes.

It is amazing to see how the different animals which inhabit this little
spot are mutually reconciled. They seem to have entered into a league
not to disturb each other's tranquillity. The sea-lions occupy most of
the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; the shags
have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where
there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the other
birds choose more retired places. We have seen all these animals mix
together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one
attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have often observed the eagles
and vultures sitting on the hillocks among the shags, without the
latter, either young or old, being disturbed at their presence. It may
be asked how these birds of prey live? I suppose on the carcases of
seals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not few, as
they are so numerous.

This very imperfect account is written more with a view to assist my own
memory than to give information to others. I am neither a botanist nor a
naturalist; and have not words to describe the productions of nature,
either in the one branch of knowledge or the other.