A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13

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[Footnote 167: This is particularly related in our account of Cook's
voyage, vol. xii. p. 397.]

On the following day, a greater storm came on than had been yet
experienced. The sea ran mountains high in the channel, and often
exhibited waves striking in contrary directions against each other. A
clap of thunder was heard at noon, the only one they had ever noticed in
this strait, and it seemed to be a signal for an increased violence of
the wind. They dragged their anchor in the storm, and were obliged to
let go the sheet-anchor, and to strike their lower yards and top-masts.
Some intervals between the bad weather occurred on the 18th and 19th,
and allowed them, among other things, to send the Etoile's barge, which
was in peculiar good condition, to view the channel of _Sainte Barbe_,
about which, however, his information was so scanty and apparently
incorrect, at least imperfect, as to prove of little utility in his
present situation. This he the more regretted, as, in his opinion, the
perfect knowledge of it would have considerably shortened the passage of
the straits. It requires little time, he remarks, to get to Port
Gallant, the chief difficulty being to double Cape Forward, which, he
says, is rendered easier by the discovery he made of three ports on the
Terra del Fuego side; and when once that port is gained, even though the
winds should prevent a vessel taking the ordinary course, this channel
is open, and may be gone through in twenty-four hours, so as to reach
the South Sea. He could not perfectly demonstrate the truth of this
opinion he entertained, as the bad weather prevented the examination of
some points as he had projected.

The storm and bad weather continued with little intermission till the
24th, when a calm and some sun-shine induced him to make another attempt
to proceed. Since re-entering Port Gallant, he had taken in several tons
of ballast, and altered his stowage, by which he succeeded in getting
the frigate to sail better than it did before. On the whole, however, he
remarks, it will always be found very difficult to manage so long a
vessel as a frigate usually is, in the midst of currents. Captain Cook,
perhaps, had contemplated such a difficulty, when he assigned his
reasons for preferring a vessel like the Endeavour, for the purposes of
discovery.

On the 25th, at one in the morning, they unmoored, weighed at three, the
breeze being northerly, but settling in the east at half-past five, when
they got top-gallant and studding-sails set, a circumstance somewhat
unusual in this navigation. They kept the middle of the strait,
following the windings of what Narborough justly calls Crooked Reach.
The coast runs W.N.W. for about two leagues from Bay Elizabeth, when
you reach the Bachelor river of that navigator. This is easily known; it
comes from a deep valley, having a high mountain on the west, the most
westerly point of which is low and wooded, and the coast is sandy.
Bougainville reckons three leagues from this river to the entrance of St
Jerome's channel, or the False Strait as others have called it, and the
bearing is N.W. by W. This channel, the entrance of which is said to be
about half a league broad, may be easily mistaken for the true one, as
it is admitted, happened at first on the present occasion. In order to
avoid it, Bougainville advises to keep the coast of Louis le Grand
Island on board, which may be done, he says, without danger. He himself
ran within a mile of the shore of this island, which is about four
leagues long, and the north side of which runs W.N.W., as far as Bay
Dauphine. At noon this day, Cape Quade (or Quod) which is about four
leagues from St Jerome's channel, bore W. 13 deg. S. two leagues distant,
and Cape St Louis, E. by N. about two leagues and a half. The weather
continued fair, and they had the advantage of all their sails being set.

The strait runs W.N.W. and N.W. by W. from Cape Quade, and being without
any considerable turnings, has obtained the name of Long-Reach. The cape
consists of craggy rocks, resembling some ancient ruins, and the coast,
up to it is wooded, the verdure of the trees contrasting finely with the
frozen and snowy summits of the neighbouring mountains; but after
doubling this point, the nature of the country is said to be very
different, presenting scarcely any thing but barren rocks, the intervals
of which are filled up with immense masses of no less unfriendly ice,
altogether meriting the name which Narborough bestowed on it in the
penury of his feelings, the Desolation of the South. Opposite this cape,
and about fifteen leagues off, is Cape Monday on the Terra del Fuego
side, which, with other remarkable points of this strait, we have
elsewhere described. Bougainville was tempted by the fineness of the
weather to continue his course in this strait during the night, but the
excessive rain and wind which came on about ten o'clock, made him repent
his temerity, and rendered his situation betwixt two shores, which it
required the greatest caution and continual activity to avoid, one of
the most critical and unpleasant he experienced during the voyage. The
dawn of the following day, gave them sight of the land, which for some
hours they had been groping against in the utmost fear of collision;
and about noon, they descried Cape Pillar, the termination of this
perilous strait, beyond which, there beamed on their joyful eyes an
immense horizon and an unspotted sea.

Fifty-two days were elapsed since they left Cape Virgin, the half of
which had been spent in inactive but painful suffering at Port Gallant.
Bougainville reckons the length of the strait at about one-hundred and
fourteen leagues, viz. from Cape Virgin Mary to Cape Pillar; and in his
opinion, notwithstanding the difficulties of the passage, it is to be
preferred to doubling Cape Horn, especially in the period from September
to the end of March. His reasons for this opinion, and the concurrent
and contrary sentiments of other navigators, have been either already
stated, or will require to be so hereafter, and need not now interrupt
our prosecution of the remainder of his voyage.

A few days after entering the Western Sea, the wind got S. and S.S.W.
This was sooner than Bougainville expected, as it was thought the west
winds generally lasted to about 30 deg., and obliged him to lay aside his
intention of going to the isle of Juan Fernandez, as the doing so would
necessarily prolong his voyage. He stood, therefore, as much as possible
to the west, in order to keep the wind, and to get off the coast; and
with a view to discover a greater space of the ocean, he directed the
commander of the Etoile to go every morning southward as far from him as
the weather would permit, keeping in sight, and to join, him in the
evening, and follow in his wake at about half a league's distance. This
it was hoped would both facilitate examination, and secure mutual
assistance, and was the order of sailing preserved throughout the
voyage.

He now directed his course in search of the land seen by Davis in 1686,
between 27 deg. and 28 deg. south latitude, and sought for in vain by Roggewein.
This search, however, was equally fruitless, though Bougainville crossed
the position laid down for it in M. de Bellin's chart. His conclusion,
in consequence, is, that the land spoken of by Davis was no other than
the isles of St Ambrose and St Felix, which are about two hundred
leagues off the coast of Chili. Westerly winds came on about the 23d of
February, and lasted to the 3d of March, the weather varying much, but
almost every day bringing rain about noon, accompanied with thunder.
This seemed strange to Bougainville, as this ocean under the tropic had
always been renowned for the uniformity and freshness of the E. and S.E.
trade-winds, supposed to last throughout the year. In the month of
February, four astronomical observations were made for determining the
longitude. The first, made on the 6th, differed 31' from the reckoning,
the latter being to the westward. The second, on the 11th, differed 37'
45", in the opposite direction. By the third, made on the 22d, the
reckoning was 42' 30", westward in excess; and that of the 27th shewed a
difference of 1' 25" in the same line. At this time they had calms and
contrary winds. The thermometer, till they came to 45 deg. latitude, had
always kept between 5 deg. and 8 deg. above the freezing point; after that, it
rose successively, and when they were between 27 deg. and 24 deg. latitude,
varied upwards a good deal. A sore throat prevailed among the crew of
the frigate ever since leaving the straits, and was attributed, whether
justly or not, to the snow waters they had been in the habit of using
there. It was not, however, very obstinate, readily yielding to simple
remedies; and at the end of March, it is said, there was no body on the
sick list.

On the 21st of this month, a tunny was caught with some little fish, not
yet digested in its belly, which are noticed never to go any great
distance from the shore. This accordingly was held as an indication of
land being near, and indeed a just one, in the present instance; for
about six in the morning of the next day, they got sight of four little
isles at one time, bearing S.S.E. 1/2 E., and of another about four
leagues west. The former, Bougainville called _les quatre Facardins_,
but being too far to windward for him at present, he preferred standing
for the single one a-head. On approaching this, it was discovered to be
surrounded with a very level sand, and to have all its interior parts
covered with thick woods surmounted by cocoa-trees. So delightful an
appearance as it presented, lost none of its charms in the eyes of men
who longed for the refreshments of dry land and the vegetable world. But
their desires must have consumed them, had this been the only shore
which could gratify them. It was found impossible to land on it, or to
obtain the advantages which it seemed to hold out to their hopes.
Bougainville bestowed on it the name of _Isle des Lanciers_, from the
circumstance of his noticing about fifteen or twenty of its inhabitants
carrying very long pikes, as in the act of brandishing them against the
ship, with signs of threatening. After this idle display of courage,
they were seen to retire to the woods, where it was possible to
distinguish their huts by means of glasses. The men are represented as
being tall, and of a bronze colour, and destitute of clothing.

In the night of the 22d, a storm came on attended with thunder and rain,
which obliged Bougainville to bring to, for fear of running against some
of the lowlands in this sea. At day-break on the following day, land was
seen bearing from N.E. by N. to N.N.W., which he stood for; at eight
o'clock, he got about three leagues from its eastermost point; but then
perceiving that there were breakers all along the opposite coast, which
seemed low and covered with trees, he stood out to sea again, waiting
for fairer weather to permit a nearer approach. This was done towards
ten o'clock, when the island was not more than a league off. Similar
difficulties, however, were experienced here, as at the former island;
and after several fruitless attempts to find anchorage for the ships, or
a landing-place for the boats, it was necessary to abandon it, which was
done with similar feelings of chagrin on the morning of the 24th. This
island was denominated Harp Island, from its figure, and had inhabitants
much resembling those of the one which had been previously discovered.
At five in the afternoon of this day, an island was discovered about
seven or eight leagues distant; another, in the morning of the 25th,
extending S.E. and N.W.; and the course was continued till the 27th,
between several low and partly overflowed islands, four of which were
examined and found quite inaccessible, or undeserving of being visited.
To the whole cluster, Bougainville gave the name of _Dangerous
Archipelago_, by which they have been generally known since his day, and
which sufficiently indicates the nature of the navigation around them.

He now shaped his course more southerly, in order to avoid a situation
which presented him with so many difficulties, and yielded so few
comforts; and on the 28th, he ceased to see land. About this time, it is
noted, the scurvy made its appearance on eight or ten of the crew,
which was imputed in a great degree to the moistness of the weather.
Lemonade was the principal article used for the removal or prevention of
it. From the 3d of March till his arrival at New Britain, Bougainville
constantly used Poissonier's distilling apparatus, by which, he says,
above a barrel of tolerably fresh water was obtained daily.

On the 2d of April, the island of Otaheite, or Taiti, as Bougainville
calls it, was got sight of, and soon afterwards were discovered some of
the islands in its neighbourhood. But it was not till the 4th, that,
when standing in for the shore of the former, as likely to realize the
hopes of refreshment, which had been so eagerly entertained by the crew,
some of the natives came off to them in their canoes, and commenced a
friendly intercourse. Being ignorant of the coast and nature of the
situation, for to Bougainville, at this time, Otaheite was a new
discovery, a good deal of time was lost in examining the island for an
anchoring-place, which was not determined on till the 6th. The numbers
of islanders that surrounded the ships as they neared the land, rendered
the operations of mooring and warping somewhat difficult and
troublesome. The manners too of these _easy_ people multiplied
embarrassments, of a particular kind, which it required no ordinary
authority and self-denial to controul. In one instance, however, it is
said, the presence of an Otaheitan Venus, in any thing else than a
repulsive attitude, had the effect of expediting the necessary work.
Both sailors and soldiers, it seems, pressed towards the hatch-way,
where she had planted herself in all the revealed attraction of _native_
beauty; and the capstern was in consequence hove with more than common
eagerness and expedition. But the utmost care, one may readily believe,
was requisite to keep these enchanted fellows in good order. It is a
trite remark, that the imaginary anticipation of pleasure is seldom or
ever equalled by the enjoyment of it. Independent of the causes which
may account for such commonly experienced disappointment, it is ten to
one in almost any case, but that in a world like this, some vexatious
occurrence or other, nowise calculated on by an excited fancy, will
altogether prevent the realization hoped for. Such was the fortune of
Bougainville's cook, who, in spite of the law to the contrary, effected
his escape to the shore in company with a complying damsel. The poor
fellow soon returned on board, more dead than alive. Immediately on
landing, it seems, the natives surrounded him, and with all the ease and
genuine curiosity of naturalists inspecting a non-descript mineral,
proceeded to turn him over and over, undressing him from head to foot,
and pawing him about most tumultuously. They afterwards returned him his
clothes, replacing whatever they had taken out of his pockets, and then
brought the girl to him. But after such a scrutinizing and fatiguing
process, it was no wonder that the terrified cook should desist from his
addresses, and make the best of his way back. He afterwards said, his
master might reprimand him as much as he pleased, but could never
frighten him so much as he had been frightened on shore. When the ships
were moored, Bougainville with several of his officers went to survey
the watering-place. The natives expressed joy at their arrival; and the
chief of the district conducted them into his own house, and entertained
them there with liberal hospitality. The rights of friendship,
nevertheless, did not obliterate the inclination to thieving, so
prevalent among these people, for a little before going on board, one of
the gentlemen missed a pistol, which he had been in the habit of
carrying in his pocket. The chief was immediately informed of it, and
gave orders for searching all the persons present. Bougainville stopped
him, and endeavoured to make him understand, that the thief would
certainly be the victim of his own dishonesty, for that what he had
stolen would kill him. This hint had the desired effect; for on the
following day, the pistol was brought on board by the chief himself.

It was now proposed to erect a camp on shore for the sick, and to carry
on the watering and other necessary operations. But this was soon
opposed, the principal people of the district, headed by the chief,
whose name was Ereti, and his father, coming to Bougainville, and
expressing their unwillingness to suffer any of the crew to remain on
shore at night, though they did not object to frequenting it in the
day-time. To this tolerably reasonable intimation, Bougainville replied,
that encampment was absolutely necessary for him, and would facilitate
the friendly intercourse that had been commenced. On this, the natives
held a council, the result of which was, that the chief came to
Bougainville, and made enquiry of him, whether or not he intended to
remain there for ever, and if the latter, how long it would be before he
departed. He was informed that the ships were to sail in eighteen days.
Another council was now held, at which Bougainville was desired to be
present. A grave man who took an active part in the conference, was very
desirous to reduce the time of encamping to half the number of days; but
Bougainville still insisted on his original proposal, to which at last
the council assented, and a good understanding was immediately restored.
The remainder of the stay here does not seem, however, to have been
either very peaceable or free from danger. The thieving disposition of
the natives occasioned several unpleasant contentions and perpetual
jealousy. Two of them were murdered by some of the crew, but on what
grounds, or by whom particularly, it is said, could not be discovered.
The circumstance led to much apprehension of an attempt to revenge, and
measures were accordingly taken to render it inefficient, but they were
seemingly unnecessary. The dangers at sea were much more formidable, and
far less easily provided against. It is perhaps quite enough to say of
them, that the ships were for a considerable time in the greatest risque
of being wrecked on the reef coast of the island, and that in the short
space of nine days during which they were here, they lost no less than
six anchors. All this, it is probable, would have been avoided, if
Bougainville had been better acquainted with the island. His description
of it, indeed, is so imperfect, and in several respects erroneous, as to
be altogether void of interest to any one who peruses what we have
already given on the subject, in the preceding and present volumes. We
shall accordingly pass it over, specifying only a few particulars
respecting one of its natives Aotourou, who, at his own desire,
accompanied Bougainville to Europe, and whose history has attracted a
little notice.

This young man was the son of an Otaheitan chief, and a captive woman of
the neighbouring isle of Oopoa, with the natives of which the Otaheitans
often carried on war. Immediately on Bougainville's arrival at his
native place, he expressed a determination to follow the strangers,
which his countrymen seemed to applaud, and his zeal in which was so
great as to overcome an attachment to a handsome girl, from whom he had
to tear himself on coming aboard the ship. Bougainville admits, that in
yielding to this determination, he hoped to avail himself of one whose
knowledge of the language of the people in this part of the world, was
likely to be useful in the remainder of his voyage; and besides this,
which perhaps was laudable enough, or at least justifiable, he
entertained the supposition, rather an unlikely one indeed, that through
him on his return, _enriched by the useful knowledge_ which he would
bring, a profitable union might be established betwixt these islanders
and his own nation. The immediate advantages were not considerable, for
this youth's talents were but slender, and the ultimate object was never
accomplished, as he died of the small-pox in the voyage out to Otaheite.
Bougainville, notwithstanding, is deserving of credit for the care and
attention he bestowed on him. He spared neither money nor trouble to
render his residence at Paris both comfortable and useful, and so far
succeeded, it appears, as that during the long time Aotourou was there,
he gave no symptoms of weariness. But it is certain, on the other hand,
that his advancement in useful knowledge was not very flattering to his
teachers, and never equalled the favourable ideas Bougainville had
entertained of his capabilities. Mr Forster says, in a footnote to the
translation, that some Englishmen who saw him at Paris, and whose
testimony, were their names mentioned, would be decisive with the
public, were decidedly of opinion, that Aotourou was naturally a stupid
fellow, an opinion, it seems, in which his own countrymen unanimously
concurred. The amount of his improvements, even on Bougainville's own
evidence, was, his _scarcely_ blabbering out some French words, his
finding his way through Paris, his _hardly ever_ paying for things
beyond their real value, and his _perfectly well knowing the days of the
opera_, to the amusements of which he shewed an excessive partiality.
These degrees of refinement, it must be allowed, do not indicate
superlative talents; yet, if one may judge from the advancement in
_Frenchification_ made by many who have visited Paris from other
countries, they may not depreciate the docility of poor Aotourou, much
below the common average! He embarked at Rochelle in 1770, on board the
Brisson, which was to take him to the Isle of France, whence, by orders
of the ministry, he was to be conveyed home, which, as already
mentioned, he never reached.

At eight in the morning of the 16th of April, the ships were about ten
leagues N.E. by N. off the north point of Otaheite, from which point,
Bougainville now took his departure. He got sight of some land in the
vicinity on the same day, and shaped his course so as to avoid what
Roggewein called the Pernicious Isles. During the remainder of this
month, the weather continued very fine, and the winds were chiefly from
the east inclining to the north. In the first week of May, several
islands were discovered, which Bougainville divided into two clusters,
calling one the Archipelago of Bourbon, and the other the Archipelago of
the Navigators. Some of them, it is probable, had been known before, as
the ascertained longitude corresponded tolerably well with that which
Abel Tasman gave for the isles of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, &c. bad weather
came on the 6th of this month, and continued with scarcely any
interruption till the 20th, during which period, calms, rains, and
westerly winds were to be encountered. The situation of the ships had
now become very distressing. There was a scarcity of water and wholesome
provisions; the scurvy broke out among the crew, and several men were
affected with venereal symptoms, the consequence, it is said, of
infection got at Otaheite. Hence it is asked, but by no means is the
affirmative reply distinctly asserted, if the English brought it there?
This subject has been discussed with tolerable freedom in another part
of this work, and need not be resumed here. Such critical circumstances
induced Bougainville to use all possible speed in getting to some place
of refreshment, and of course materially interfered with his plan of
making discoveries.

On the 22d of May, two isles were observed, the most southerly bearing
from S. by E. to S.W. by S., and seeming to be about twelve leagues
long, in a N.N.W. direction; the other bore from S.W. 1/2 S. to W.N.W.,
and having been first seen at day-break, was called Aurora. To the
former, in honour of the day, was given the name of _Isle de la
Pentecote_, or Whitsun Isle. Bougainville attempted to pass betwixt
these two islands, but the wind failing him, he was obliged to go to
leeward of Aurora. In getting to the northward, along its eastern shore,
he saw a little isle, rising like a sugar-loaf and bearing N. by W.
which he denominated Peak of the Etoile. He now ranged along the Isle
of Aurora, at about a league and a half distant. It is described as
about ten leagues in length, but not more than two in breadth, with
steep shores, and as covered with wood. At two in the afternoon, when
coasting this isle, the summits of high mountains were perceived over
it, about ten leagues off, which belonged to another island, as was
found next morning. This island lay S.W. of Aurora, and at the nearest
part was about three or four leagues from it. Several canoes were seen
along its coasts, but none of the natives put off to the ships. Though
no bottom could be found near the shore with fifty fathom, yet
Bougainville resolved, if possible, to make a landing on it, in order to
get wood and necessary refreshments. A party of men was accordingly sent
off in three armed boats; and effected a landing without any opposition.
Bougainville himself and some others went to join this party in the
afternoon, and found it busily employed as directed, the natives lending
considerable assistance by conveying wood, &c. to the boats. At first,
indeed, they presented themselves in an armed posture, and seemed
resolved to prevent any intrusion on their ground, but the prudent and
conciliatory conduct of the officers effected a relinquishment of
immediate hostility. This, it is thought, was but deceitful, and
apparently intended to throw the party off its guard. Very probably,
they meditated a serious attack, but were disconcerted by the party
embarking sooner than they expected. In doing so, they exhibited what
had continued to actuate them, for when the party put off in their
boats, these people followed it, and showed their dexterity in throwing
stones and arrows, from which they did not desist, till twice fired on
by the crew. These savages are unfavourably described; they are said to
have been ugly, of short stature, and ill proportioned; and as they were
affected with a disease which Bougainville considered leprosy, this
island got the name of Isle of Lepers. The few women that were seen, at
best rivalled the men in disagreeable appearance, and were about as
naked.