A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13

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To this account of Savu, I shall only add a small specimen of its
language, by which it will appear to have some affinity with that of the
South-Sea islands, many of the words being exactly the same, and the
numbers manifestly derived from the same source.

_A man_, Momonne. _A sheep_, Doomba.
_A woman_, Mobunne. _A goat_, Kesavoo.
_The head_, Catoo. _A dog_, Guaca.
_The hair_, Row catoo. _A cat_, Maio.
_The eyes_, Matta. _A fowl_, Mannu.
_The eye_ } Rowna matta. _The tail_, Carow.
_lashes_, } _The beak_, Pangoutoo.
_The nose_, Swanga. _A fish_, Ica.
_The cheeks_, Cavaranga. _A turtle_, Unjoo.
_The ears_, Wodeeloo. _A cocoa-nut_, Nieu.
_The tongue_, Vaio. _Fan-palm_, Boaceree.
_The neck_, Lacoco. _Areca_, Calella.
_The breasts_, Soosoo. _Betele_, Canana.
_The nipples_, Caboo soosoo. _Lime_, Aou.
_The belly_, Dulloo. _A fish-hook_, Maaenadoo.
_The navel_, Assoo. _Tattow, the_} Tata.
_The thighs_, Tooga. _marks on_ }
_The knees_, Rootoo. _the skin_, }
_The legs_, Baibo. _The sun_, Lodo.
_The feet_, Dunceala. _The moon_, Wurroo.
_The toes_, Kissovei yilla. _The sea_, Aidassee.
_The arms_, Camacoo. _Water_, Ailea.
_The hand_, Wulaba. _Fire_, Aee.
_A buffalo_, Cabaou. _To die_, Maate.
_A horse_, Djara. _To sleep_, Tabudge.
_A hog_, Vavee. _To rise_, Tateetoo.

One, Usse.
Two, Lhua.
Three, Tullu.
Four, Uppah.
Five, Lumme.
Six, Unna.
Seven, Pedu.
Eight, Arru.
Nine, Saou.
Ten, Singooroo.
Eleven Singurung usse.
20, Lhuangooroo.
100, Sing assu.
1000, Setuppah.
10,000, Selacussa.
100,000, Serata.
1,000,000, Sereboo.

In this account of the island of Savu it must be remembered, that,
except the facts in which we were parties, and the account of the
objects which we had an opportunity to examine, the whole is founded
merely upon the report of Mr Lange, upon whose authority alone therefore
it most rest.

SECTION XXXVII.

_The Run from the Island of Savu to Batavia, and an Account of the
Transactions there while the Ship was refitting_.

In the morning of Friday the 21st of September, 1770, we got under sail,
and stood away to the westward, along the north side of the island of
Savu, and of the smaller that lies to the westward of it, which at noon
bore from us S.S.E. distant two leagues. At four o'clock in the
afternoon, we discovered a small low island, bearing S.S.W. distant
three leagues, which has no place in any chart now extant, at least in
none that I have been able to procure: It lies in latitude 10 deg. 47' S.,
longitude 238 deg. 28' W.

At noon on the 22d, we were in latitude 11 deg. 10' S., longitude 240 deg. 38'
W. In the evening of the 23d, we found the variation of the needle to be
2 deg. 44' W.; as soon as we got clear of the islands we had constantly a
swell from the southward, which I imagined was not caused by a wind
blowing from that quarter, but by the sea being so determined by the
position of the coast of New Holland.

At noon on the 26th, being in latitude 10 deg. 47' S., longitude 249 deg. 52'
W., we found the variation to be 3 deg. 10' W., and our situation to be
twenty-five miles to the northward of the log; for which I know not how
to account. At noon on the 27th, our latitude by observation was 10 deg. 51'
S., which was agreeable to the log; and our longitude was 252 deg. 11' W. We
steered N.W. all day on the 28th, in order to make the land of Java; and
at noon on the 29th, our latitude by observation was 9 deg. 31' S.,
longitude 254 deg. 10' W.; and in the morning of the 30th, I took into my
possession the log-book and journals, at least all I could find, of the
officers, petty officers, and seamen, and enjoined them secrecy with
respect to where they had been.

At seven in the evening, being in the latitude of Java Head, and not
seeing any land, I concluded that we were too far to the westward: I
therefore hauled up E.N.E. having before steered N. by E. In the night,
we had thunder and lightning; and about twelve o'clock, by the light of
the flashes, we saw the land bearing east. I then tacked and stood to
the S.W. till four o'clock in the morning of the 1st of October; and at
six, Java Head, or the west end of Java, bore S.E. by E., distant five
leagues: Soon after we saw Prince's Island, bearing E. 1/2 S.; and at
ten, the island of Cracatoa, bearing N.E. Cracatoa is a remarkably
high-peaked island, and at noon it bore N. 40 E. distant seven leagues.

I must now observe that, during our run from Savu, I allowed twenty
minutes a-day for the westerly current, which I concluded must run
strong at this time, especially off the coast of Java, and I found that
this allowance was just equivalent to the effect of the current upon the
ship.[112]

[Footnote 112: This is a single but not an inconsiderable instance of
Cook's skill, in the important art of navigation.--E.]

At four o'clock in the morning of the 2d, we fetched close in with the
coast of Java, in fifteen fathom; we then stood along the coast, and
early in the forenoon, I sent the boat ashore to try if she could
procure some fruit for Tupia, who was very ill, and some grass for the
buffaloes that were still alive. In an hour or two she returned with
four cocoa-nuts, and a small bunch of plantains, which had been
purchased for a shilling, and some herbage for the cattle, which the
Indians not only gave us, but assisted our people to cut. The country
looked like one continued wood, and had a very pleasant appearance.

About eleven o'clock, we saw two Dutch ships lying off Anger Point, and
I sent Mr Hicks on board of one of them to enquire news of our country,
from which we had been absent so long. In the mean time it fell calm,
and about noon I anchored in eighteen fathom with a muddy bottom.[113]
When Mr Hicks returned, he reported that the ships were Dutch East
Indiamen from Batavia, one of which was bound to Ceylon, and the other
to the coast of Malabar; and that there was also a flyboat or packet,
which was said to be stationed here to carry letters from the Dutch
ships that came hither to Batavia, but which I rather think was
appointed to examine all ships that pass the Streight: From these ships
we heard, with great pleasure, that the Swallow had been at Batavia
about two years before.[114]

[Footnote 113: Mr Barrow advises that vessels should touch at Anger or
Angeire Point, for refreshments. He says it is vastly better than
stopping near North Island, on the Sumatra side, as the stores are much
superior, and the station is very healthy.--E.]

[Footnote 114: This is related in the preceding volume.--E.]

At seven o'clock a breeze sprung up at S.S.W., with which having
weighed, we stood to the N.E. between Thwart-the-way-Island and the Cap,
sounding from eighteen to twenty-eight fathom: We had but little wind
all night, and having a strong current against us, we got no further by
eight in the morning than Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to
the N.E., and obliged us to anchor in two-and-twenty fathom, at about
the distance of two miles from the shore; the point bore N.E. by E.,
distant one league, and here we found a strong current setting to the
N.W. In the morning we had seen the Dutch packet standing after us, but
when the wind shifted to the N.E. she bore away.[115]

[Footnote 115: There is considerable difficulty at certain seasons, in
working up this strait. Thus it is not unusual for a vessel going at a
wrong time, to be six weeks in accomplishing a distance, which at
another time may be gone over in twelve hours. This, however, is when
the Great Channel, as it is called, is attempted at a wrong season. The
Secured Passage or Bahonden, viz. betwixt Java and Prince's Island, is
more generally navigated, except by vessels coming from Bengal, Surat,
&c. which cannot reach the windward shore of Java against the south-east
monsoon. Those which take the Secured Passage soon get into anchoring
depth off the Java shore, which is one of its greatest advantages,--E.]

At six o'clock in the evening, the wind having obliged us to continue at
anchor, one of the country boats came along side of us, on board of
which was the master of the packet. He seemed to have two motives for
his visit, one to take an account of the ship, and the other to sell us
refreshments; for in the boat were turtle, fowls, ducks, parrots,
paroquets, rice-birds, monkies, and other articles, which they held at a
very high price, and brought to a bad market, for our Savu stock was not
yet expended: However, I gave a Spanish dollar for a small turtle, which
weighed about six-and-thirty pounds: I gave also a dollar for ten large
fowls, and afterwards bought fifteen more at the same price; for a
dollar we might also have bought two monkies, or a whole cage of
rice-birds. The master of the sloop brought with him two books, in one
of which he desired that any of our officers would write down the name
of the ship and its commander, with that of the place from which she
sailed, and of the port to which she was bound, with such other
particulars relating to themselves, as they might think proper, for the
information of any of our friends that should come after us: And in the
other he entered the names of the ship and the commander himself, in
order to transmit them, to the governor and council of the Indies. We
perceived that in the first book many ships, particularly Portuguese,
had made entries of the same kind with that for which it was presented
to us. Mr Hicks, however, having written the name of the ship, only
added "from Europe." He took notice of this, but said, that he was
satisfied with any thing we thought fit to write, it being intended
merely for the information of those who should enquire after us from
motives of friendship.

Having made several attempts to sail with a wind that would not stem the
current, and as often come to an anchor, a proa came along-side of us in
the morning of the 5th, in which was a Dutch officer, who sent me down a
printed paper in English, duplicates of which he had in other languages,
particularly in French and Dutch, all regularly signed, in the name of
the governor and council of the Indies, by their secretary: It
contained nine questions, very ill expressed, in the following terms:

"1. To what nation the ship belongs, and its name?
"2. If it comes from Europe, or any other place?
"3. From what place it lastly departed from?
"4. Whereunto designed to go?
"5. What and how many ships of the Dutch Company
by departure from the last shore there layed, and their
names?
"6. If one or more of these ships in company with this,
is departed for this or any other place?
"7. If during the voyage any particularities is happened
or seen?
"8. If not any ships in sea, or the Streights of Sunda,
have seen or hailed in, and which?
"9. If any other news worth of attention, at the place
from whence the ship lastly departed, or during the voyage,
is happened?

BATAVIA, in the Castle.
"By order of the Governor-General
and the Counsellors of India,
J. BRANDER BUNGL, Sec."

Of these questions I answered only the first and the fourth; which when
the officer saw, he said answers to the rest were of no consequence: Yet
he immediately added, that he must send that very paper away to Batavia,
and that it would be there the next day at noon. I have particularly
related this incident, because I have been credibly informed that it is
but of late years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine the
ships that pass through this Streight.[116]

[Footnote 116: The Dutch East-India Company claimed the absolute
sovereignty of the Straits of Sunda, as possessing the kingdom of
Bantam, on the shore of Java, and having conquered the land of Lampon
and other provinces on the opposite side.--E.]

At ten o'clock the same morning, we weighed, with a light breeze at
S.W.; but did little more than stem the current, and about two o'clock
anchored again under Bantam Point, where we lay till nine; a light
breeze then springing up at S.E. we weighed and stood to the eastward
till ten o'clock the next morning, when the current obliged us again to
anchor in twenty-two fathom, Pulababi bearing E. by S. 1/2 S. distant
between three and four miles. Having alternately weighed and anchored
several times, till four in the afternoon of the 7th, we then stood to
the eastward, with a very faint breeze at N.E. and passed Wapen Island,
and the first island to the eastward of it; when the wind dying away, we
were carried by the current between the first and second of the islands
that lie to the eastward of Wapen Island, where we were obliged to
anchor in thirty fathom, being very near a ledge of rocks that run out
from one of the islands. At two the next morning we weighed with the
land-wind at south, and stood out clear of the shoal; but before noon
were obliged to come-to again in twenty-eight fathom, near a small
island among those that are called the Thousand Islands, which we did
not find laid down in any chart. Pulo Pare at this time bore E.N.E.
distance between six and seven miles.

Mr Banks and Dr Solander went ashore upon the island, which they found
not to be more than five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad; yet
there was a house upon it, and a small plantation, where among other
things was the _Palma Christi_, from which the caster-oil is made in the
West Indies:[117] they made a small addition to their collection of
plants, and shot a bat, whose wings when extended measured three feet
from point to point: They shot also four plovers, which exactly
resembled the golden plover of England. Soon after they returned, a
small Indian boat came along-side with two Malays on board, who brought
three turtles, some dried fish, and a few pumpkins: We bought the
turtle, which altogether weighed a hundred and forty-six pounds, for a
dollar, and considering that we had lately paid the Dutchman a dollar
for one that weighed only six-and-thirty pounds, we thought we had a
good bargain. The seller appeared equally satisfied, and we then treated
with him for his pumpkins, for which he was very unwilling to take any
money but a dollar; we said that a whole dollar was greatly too much; to
which he readily assented, but desired that we would cut one and give
him a part: At last, however, a fine shining Portuguese petack tempted
him, and for that he sold us his whole stock of pumpkins, being in
number twenty-six. At parting, he made signs that we should not tell at
Batavia that any boat had been aboard us.

[Footnote 117: The Ricinus Communis: The oil is obtained from the seeds,
either by expression or decoction.--E.]

We were not able to weather Polo Pare this day, but getting the
land-wind at south about ten o'clock at night, we weighed and stood to
the E.S.E. all night. At ten in the morning, we anchored again, to wait
for the sea-breeze; and at noon it sprung up at N.N.E. with which we
stood in for Batavia road, where at four o'clock in the afternoon we
came to an anchor.

We found here the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English private
traders of that country, thirteen sail of large Dutch ships, and a
considerable number of small vessels.

A boat came immediately on board from a ship which had a broad pendant
flying, and the officer who commanded having enquired who we were, and
whence we came, immediately returned with such answers as we thought fit
to give him: Both he and his people were pale as spectres a sad presage
of our sufferings in so unhealthy a country; but our people, who, except
Tupia, were all rosy and plump seemed to think themselves so seasoned by
various-climates that nothing could hurt them.[118] In the mean time, I
sent a lieutenant ashore to acquaint the governor of our arrival and to
make an excuse for our not saluting; for as I could salute with only
three guns, except the swivels, which I was of opinion would not be
heard, I thought it was better to let it alone. As soon as the boat was
dispatched, the carpenter delivered me an account of the defects of the
ship, of which the following is a copy:

"The defects of his Majesty's bark Endeavour,
"Lieutenant James Cook Commander.

"The ship very leaky, as she makes from twelve to six
inches water an hour, occasioned by her main keel being
wounded in many places, and the scarfs of her stern being
very open: The false keel gone beyond the midships from
forward, and perhaps farther, as I had no opportunity of
seeing for the water; when hauled ashore for repairing:
Wounded on the larboard side under the main channel,
where I imagine the greatest leak is, but could not come at
it for the water: One pump on the larboard side useless; the
others decayed within an inch and a half of the bore.
Otherwise masts, yards, boats, and hull, in pretty good condition."

As it was the universal opinion that the ship could not safely proceed
to Europe without an examination of her bottom, I determined to apply
for leave to heave her down at this place; and as I understood that it
would be necessary to make this application in writing, I drew up a
request, and the next morning, having got it translated into Dutch, we
all went ashore.

[Footnote 118: It is of some consequence to remember the circumstance of
the crew's good health on arriving at Batavia. So far the precautions
used for their welfare had been found very efficacious.--E.]

We repaired immediately to the house of Mr Leith, the only Englishman of
any credit who was resident at this place; he received us with great
politeness, and engaged us to dinner: To this gentleman we applied for
instructions how to provide ourselves with lodgings and necessaries
while we should stay ashore, and he told us that there was a hotel, or
kind of inn, kept by the order of government, where all merchants and
strangers were obliged to reside, paying half per cent, upon the value
of their goods for warehouse room, which the master of the house was
obliged to provide; but that as we came in a king's ship, we should be
at liberty to live where we pleased, upon asking the governor's
permission, which would be granted of course. He said that it would be
cheaper for us to take a house in the town, and bring our own servants
ashore, if we had any body upon whom we could depend to buy in our
provisions; but as this was not the case, having no person among us who
could speak the Malay language, our gentlemen determined to go to the
hotel. At the hotel, therefore, beds were immediately hired, and word
was sent that we should sleep there at night.

At five o'clock in the afternoon I was introduced to the
governor-general, who received me very courteously; he told me that I
should have every thing I wanted, and that in the morning my request
should be laid before the council, which I was desired to attend.

About nine o'clock we had a dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and
rain, during which the main-mast of one of the Dutch East Indiamen was
split, and carried away by the deck; the main-top-mast and
top-gallant-mast were shivered to pieces; she had an iron spindle at the
main-top-mast-head, which probably directed the stroke. This ship lay
not more than the distance of two cables' length from ours, and in all
probability we should have shared the same fate, but for the electrical
chain which we had but just got up, and which conducted the lightning
over the side of the ship; but though we escaped the lightning, the
explosion shook us like an earthquake, the chain at the same time
appearing like a line of fire: A centinel was in the action of charging
his piece, and the shock forced the musket out of his hand, and broke
the rammer-rod. Upon this occasion I cannot but earnestly recommend
chains of the same kind to every ship, whatever be her destination, and
I hope that the fate of the Dutchman will be a warning to all who shall
read this narrative, against having an iron spindle at the
mast-head.[119]

[Footnote 119: Thunder storms are particularly frequent in this climate,
especially about the ends of the monsoons, at which times scarcely an
evening passes without one. But in general, it has been remarked, they
are not productive of much mischief; the reason, perhaps, why the
Indiaman was not furnished in the manner recommended. The Dutch are
scarcely to be charged with want of foresight, or with inattention to
their interests. Nevertheless, the advice here given is worthy of
attention, as well to them as to others.--E.]

The next morning I attended at the council-chamber, and was told that I
should have every thing I wanted. In the mean time, the gentlemen ashore
agreed with the keeper of the hotel for their lodging and board, at the
rate of two rix-dollars, or nine shillings sterling a-day for each; and
as there were five of them, and they would probably have many visitors
from the ship, he agreed to keep them a separate table, upon condition
that they should pay one rix-dollar for the dinner of every stranger,
and another for his supper and bed, if he should sleep ashore. Under
this stipulation they were to be furnished with tea, coffee, punch,
pipes and tobacco, for themselves and their friends, as much as they
could consume; they were also to pay half a rupee, or one shilling and
three-pence a-day for each of their servants.[120]

[Footnote 120: Captain Bligh, who got to Batavia in 1739, speaks very
indifferently of the hotel there. "One of the greatest difficulties,"
says he, "that strangers have to encounter, is their being obliged to
live at the hotel. This hotel was formerly two houses, which, by doors
of communication, have been made one. It is in the middle of a range of
buildings more calculated for a cold country than for such a climate as
Batavia. There is no free circulation of air, and what is equally bad,
it is always very dirty; and there is great want of attendance. What
they call cleaning the house, is another nuisance; for they never use
any water to cool it or lay the dust, but sweep daily with brooms, in
such a manner, that those in the house are almost suffocated by a cloud
of dust." His officers, he tells us, complained of the tradesmen
imposing on them as to the price of goods, in consequence of which he
spoke to the sabander, who gave redress. He himself was obliged; on
account of his health, to have a house in the country.--E.]

They soon learnt that these rates were more than double the common
charges of board and lodging in the town, and their table, though it had
the appearance of magnificence, was wretchedly served. Their dinner
consisted of one course of fifteen dishes, and their supper of one
course of thirteen, but nine or ten of them consisted of bad poultry,
variously dressed, and often served up the second, third, and even the
fourth time: The same duck having appeared more than once roasted, found
his way again to the table as a fricasee, and a fourth time in the form
of forced meat. It was not long, however, before they learnt that this
treatment was only by way of essay, and that it was the invariable
custom of the house to supply all strangers, at their first coming, with
such fare as could be procured for the least money, and consequently
would produce the most gain: That if either through indolence or good
nature they were content, it was continued for the benefit of the host,
but that if they complained, it was gradually amended till they were
satisfied, which sometimes happened before they had the worth of their
money. After this discovery, they remonstrated, and their fare became
better; however, after a few days, Mr Banks hired a little house, the
next door on the left hand to the hotel, for himself and his party, for
which he paid after the rate of ten rix-dollars, or two pounds five
shillings sterling a-month; but here they were very far from having
either the convenience or the privacy which they expected; no person was
permitted to sleep in this private house occasionally, as a guest to the
person who hired it, under a penalty, but almost every Dutchman that
went by ran in without any ceremony, to ask what they sold, there having
been very seldom any private persons at Batavia who had not something to
sell. Every body here hires a carriage, and Mr Banks hired two. They are
open chaises, made to hold two people, and driven by a man sitting on a
coach-box; for each of these he paid two rix-dollars a-day.