A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13

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We continued to stand to the S.W. by S. till eleven o'clock the next
morning, when the wind shifted to the S.W. by W., upon which we wore,
and stood to the N.N.W., being then in latitude 47 deg. 40' S. longitude
193 deg. 50' W., and having a hollow sea from the S.W.

During the night, we steered N.N.W. till six in the morning, when,
seeing no land, we steered N. by E. till eight, when we steered N.E. by
E. 1/2 E. to make the land, which at ten we saw bearing E.N.E., but it
being hazy, we could distinguish nothing upon it. At noon, our latitude,
by observation, was 46 deg. S. About two it cleared up, and the land
appeared to be high, rude, and mountainous.: About half an hour after
three I hauled in for a bay, in which there appeared to be good
anchorage; but in about an hour, finding the distance too great to run
before it would be dark, and the wind blowing too hard to make the
attempt safe in the night, I bore away along the shore.

This bay, which I called _Dusky Bay_, lies in latitude 45 deg. 47' S.: It is
between three and four miles broad at the entrance, and seems to be full
as deep as it is broad: It contains several islands, behind which there
must be shelter from all winds, though possibly there may not be
sufficient depth of water. The north point of this bay, when it bears
S.E. by S, is rendered very remarkable by five high peaked rocks which
lie off it, and have the appearance of the four fingers and thumb of a
man's hand, for which reason I called it _Point Five Fingers_: The land
of this point is farther remarkable, for being the only level land
within a considerable distance. It extends near two leagues to the
northward, is lofty, and covered with wood. The land behind it is very
different, consisting wholly of mountains, totally barren and rocky; and
this difference gives the Cape the appearance of an island.

At sun-set, the southermost land in sight bore due south, distant about
five or six leagues; and as this is the westermost point of land upon
the whole coast, I called it _West Cape_. It lies about three leagues to
the southward of Dusky Bay, in the latitude of 45 deg. 54' S. and in the
longitude of 193 deg. 17' W. The land of this Cape is of a moderate height
next the sea, and has nothing remarkable about it, except a very white
cliff, two or three leagues to the southward of it: To the southward of
it also the land trends away to the S.E. and to the northward it trends
N.N.E.

Having brought-to for the night, we made sail along the shore at four in
the morning, in the direction of N.E. 1/2 N. with a moderate breeze at
S.S.E. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 45 deg. 18' S. At this
time, being about a league and a half from the shore, we sounded, but
had no ground with seventy fathom: We had just passed a small narrow
opening in land, where there seemed to be a very safe and convenient
harbour, formed by an island, which lay in the middle of the opening at
east. The opening lies in latitude 45 deg. 16' S., and on the land behind it
are mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow, that
appeared to have been recently fallen; and indeed for two days past we
had found the weather very cold. On each side the entrance of the
opening, the land rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a
stupendous height, and this indeed was the reason why I did not carry
the ship into it, for no wind could blow there but right in, or right
out, in the direction of either east or west, and I thought it by no
means advisable to put into a place whence I could not have got out but
with a wind which experience had taught me did not blow more than one
day in a month. In this, however, I acted contrary to the opinion of
some persons on board, who in very strong terms expressed their desire
to harbour for present convenience, without any regard to future
disadvantages.

In the evening, being about two leagues from the shore, we sounded, and
had no ground with 108 fathom: The variation of the needle, by azimuth,
was 14 deg. E. and by amplitude 15 deg. 2'. We made the best of our way along
the shore with what wind we had, keeping at the distance of between two
and three leagues. At noon, we were in latitude 44 deg. 47', having run only
twelve leagues upon a N.E. 1/4 N. course, during the last
four-and-twenty hours.

We continued to steer along the shore, in the direction of N.E. 1/4 E.
till six o'clock in the evening, when we brought-to for the night. At
four in the morning, we stood in for the land, and when the day broke we
saw what appeared to be an inlet; but upon a nearer approach proved to
be only a deep valley between two high lands: We proceeded therefore in
the same course, keeping the shore at the distance of between four and
five miles. At noon on the 16th, the northermost point of land in sight
bore N. 60 E. at the distance of ten miles; and our latitude, by
observation, was 44 deg. 5', our longitude from Cape West 3 deg. 8' E. About
two, we past the point which at noon had been distant ten miles, and
found it to consist of high red cliffs, down which there fell a cascade
of water in four small streams, and I therefore gave it the name of
_Cascade Point_. From this Point the land trends first N. 76 E. and
afterwards more to the northward. At the distance of eight leagues from
Cascade Point, in the direction of E.N.E. and at a little distance from
the shore, lies a small low island, which bore from us S. by E. at the
distance of about a league and a half.

At seven in the evening, we brought-to, in thirty-three fathom, with a
fine sandy bottom; at ten we had fifty fathom, and at twelve wore in
sixty-five fathom, having driven several miles N.N.W. after our having
brought-to. At two in the morning, we had no ground with 140 fathom, by
which it appears that the soundings extend but a little way from the
shore. About this time it fell calm; at eight, a breeze sprung up at
S.W. with which we steered along the shore, in the direction of N.E. by
E. 1/2 E. at the distance of about three leagues. At six in the evening,
being about one league from the shore, we had seventeen fathom; and at
eight, being about three leagues from the shore, we had forty-four; we
now shortened sail, and brought-to, having run ten leagues N.E. by E.
since noon.

It was calm most part of the night; but at ten in the morning a light
breeze sprung up at S.W. by W. when we made sail again along the shore
N.E. by N., having a large swell from the W.S.W. which had risen in the
night; at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 43 deg. 4' S. and our
longitude from Cape West 4 deg. 12' E. We observed, that the vallies as well
as the mountains were this morning covered with snow, part of which we
supposed to have fallen during the night, when we had rain. At six in
the evening we shortened sail, and at ten brought-to, at the distance of
about five leagues from the shore, where we had 115 fathom. At midnight,
there being little wind, we made sail, and at eight in the morning we
stood to the N.E. close upon a wind till noon, when we tacked, being
about three leagues from the land, and, by observation, in latitude 42 deg.
8' and longitude from Cape West 5 deg. 5' E.

We continued to stand westward till two in the morning, when we made a
trip to the eastward, and afterwards stood westward till noon, when, by
our reckoning, we were in the latitude 42 deg. 23', and longitude from Cape
West 3 deg. 55' E. We now tacked and stood eastward, with a fresh gale at N.
by W. till six in the evening, when the wind shifted to the S. and
S.S.W. with which we steered N.E. by N. till six in the morning, when we
hauled in E. by N. to make the land, which we saw soon afterwards; at
noon, our latitude, by account, was 41 deg. 37', and our longitude from Cape
West 5 deg. 42' E. We were now within three or four leagues of the land, but
it being foggy, we could see nothing upon it distinctly, and as we had
much wind, and a vast swell rolling in upon the shore, from the W.S.W. I
did not think it safe to go nearer.

In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze from the S.S.W. with which we
steered north along the shore till eight, when, being within between two
and three leagues, we sounded, and had but thirty-four fathom; upon
which we hauled off N.W. by N. till eleven at night, and then
brought-to, having sixty-four fathom. At four in the morning, we made
sail to the N.E. with a light breeze at S.S.W. which at eight veered to
the westward, and soon after died away; at this time we were within
three or four miles of the land, and had fifty-four fathom, with a large
swell from the W.S.W. rolling obliquely upon the shore, which made me
fear that I should be obliged to anchor; but by the help of a light air
now and then from the S.W. I was able to keep the ship from driving. At
noon, the northermost land in sight bore N.E. by E. 1/2 E. distant about
ten leagues; our latitude, by account, was 40 deg. 55' S. longitude from
Cape West 6 deg. 35' E. From this time we had light airs from the southward,
with intervals of calm, till noon on the 23d, when our latitude, by
observation, was 40 deg. 36' 30" S. and our longitude from Cape West 6 deg. 52'
E. The eastermost point of land in sight bore E. 10 N. at the distance
of seven leagues, and a bluff head or point, of which we had been
abreast at noon the day before, and off which lay some rocks above
water, bore S. 18 W. at the distance of six leagues. This point I called
_Rock's Point_. Our latitude was now 40 deg. 55' S., and having nearly run
down the whole of the north-west coast of Tovy Poenammoo, I shall give
some account of the face of the country.

I have already observed, that on the 11th, when we were off the southern
part, the land then seen was craggy and mountainous; and there is great
reason to believe that the same ridge of mountains extends nearly the
whole length of the island. Between the westernmost land which we saw
that day, and the easternmost which we saw on the 13th, there is a space
of about six or eight leagues, of which we, did not see the coast,
though we plainly discovered the mountains inland. The sea-coast near
Cape West is low, rising with an easy and gradual ascent to the foot of
the mountains, and being in most parts covered with wood. From Point
Five Fingers, down to latitude 44 deg. 26', there is a narrow ridge of hills
that rises directly from the sea, and is covered with wood: Close behind
these hills are the mountains, extending in another ridge of a
stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and
naked, except where they are covered with snow, which is to be seen in
large patches upon many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever
since the creation of the world: A prospect more rude, craggy, and
desolate than this country affords from the sea, cannot possibly be
conceived, for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but
the summits of rocks, which stand so near together, that instead of
vallies there are only fissures between them. From the latitude of 44 deg.
20', to the latitude of 42 deg. 8', these mountains lie farther inland, and
the sea-coast consists of woody hills and valleys, of various height
and extent, and has much appearance of fertility: Many of the vallies
form plains of considerable extent, wholly covered with wood, but it is
very probable that the ground, in many places, is swampy, and
interspersed with pools of water. From latitude 42 deg. 8', to 41 deg. 30', the
land is not distinguished by any thing remarkable: It rises into hills
directly from the sea, and is covered with wood; but the weather being
foggy while we were upon this part of the coast, we could see very
little inland, except now and then the summits of the mountains,
towering above the cloudy mists that obscured them below, which
confirmed my opinion that a chain of mountains extended from one end of
the island to the other.

In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze at S.W., which, before it was
quite dark, brought us abreast of the eastern point which we had seen at
noon; but not knowing what course the land took on the other side of it,
we brought-to in thirty-four fathom, at the distance of about one league
from the shore. At eight in the evening, there being little wind, we
filled and stood on till midnight, and then we brought-to till four in
the morning, when we again made sail, and at break of day we saw low
land extending from the point to the S.S.E. as far as the eye could
reach, the eastern extremity of which appeared in round hillocks: By
this time the gale had veered to the eastward, which obliged us to ply
to windward. At noon next day, the eastern point bore S.W. by S. distant
sixteen miles, and our latitude was 40 deg. 19': The wind continuing
easterly, we were nearly in the same situation at noon on the day
following. About three o'clock the wind came to the westward, and we
steered E.S.E. with all the sail we could set till it was dark, and then
shortened sail till the morning: As we had thick hazy weather all night,
we kept sounding continually, and had from thirty-seven to forty-two
fathom. When the day broke we saw land bearing S.E. by E. and an island
lying near it, bearing E.S.E. distant about five leagues: This island I
knew to be the same that I had seen from the entrance of Queen
Charlotte's Sound, from which it bears N.W. by N. distant nine leagues.
At noon, it bore south, distant four or five miles, and the north-west
head of the Sound S.E. by S. distant ten leagues and a half. Our
latitude, by observation, was 40 deg. 33' S.

As we had now circumnavigated the whole country, it became necessary to
think of quitting it; but as I had thirty tons of empty water casks on
board, this could not be done till I had filled them: I therefore hauled
round the island, and entered a bay which lies between that and Queen
Charlotte's Sound, leaving three more islands, which lay close under the
western shore, between three or four miles within the entrance, on our
starboard hand: While we were running in, we kept the lead continually
going, and had from forty to twelve fathom. At six o'clock in the
evening, we anchored in eleven fathom with a muddy bottom, under the
west shore, in the second cove, that lies within the three islands; and
as soon as it was light the next morning, I took a boat, and went on
shore to look for a watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship,
both which I found, much to my satisfaction. As soon as the ship was
moored, I sent an officer on shore to superintend the watering, and the
carpenter, with his crew, to cut wood, while the long-boat was employed
in landing the empty casks.

In this employment we were busy till the 30th, when the wind seeming to
settle at S.E. and our water being nearly completed, we warped the ship
out of the cove, that we might have room to get under sail: And at noon
I went away in the pinnace to examine as much of the bay as my time
would admit.

After rowing about two leagues up it, I went ashore upon a point of land
on the western side, and having climbed a hill, I saw the western arm of
this bay run in S.W. by W. about five leagues farther, yet I could not
discover the end of it: There appeared to be several other inlets, or at
least small bays, between this and the north-west head of Queen
Charlotte's Sound, in each of which, I make no doubt, there is anchorage
and shelter, as they are all covered from the sea-wind by the islands
which lie without them. The land about this bay, as far as I could see
of it, is of a hilly surface, chiefly covered with trees, shrubs, and
fern, which render travelling difficult and fatiguing. In this excursion
I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, who found several new
plants. We met with some huts, which seemed to have been long deserted,
but saw no inhabitants. Mr Banks examined several of the stones that
lay upon the beach, which were full of veins, and had a mineral
appearance; but he did not discover any thing in them which he knew to
be ore: If he had had an opportunity to examine any of the bare rocks,
perhaps he might have been more fortunate. He was also of opinion that
what I had taken for marble in another place, was a mineral substance;
and that, considering the correspondence of latitude between this place
and South America, it was not improbable but that, by a proper
examination, something very valuable might be found.

At my return in the evening, I found all the wood and water on board,
and the ship ready for the sea; I resolved therefore to quit the
country, and return home by such a route as might be of most advantage
to the service; and upon this subject took the opinion of my officers. I
had myself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would
have enabled me finally to determine, whether there is or is not a
southern continent; but against this it was a sufficient objection that
we must have kept in a high southern latitude in the very depth of
winter, with a vessel which was not thought sufficient for the
undertaking: And the same reason was urged against our proceeding
directly for the Cape of Good Hope, with still more force, because no
discovery of moment could be hoped for in that route; it was therefore
resolved that we should return by the East Indies, and that with this
view we should, upon leaving the coast, steer westward, till we should
fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the
direction of that coast to the northward, till we should arrive at its
northern extremity; but if that should be found impracticable, it was
further resolved that we should endeavour to fall in with the land, or
islands, said to have been discovered by Quiros.

With this view, at break of day on Saturday the 31st of March, 1770, we
got under sail, and put to sea, with the advantage of a fresh gale at
S.E. and clear weather, taking our departure from the eastern point,
which we had seen at noon on the 23d, and to which, on this occasion I
gave the name of _Cape Farewell_.

The bay out of which we had just sailed I called _Admiralty Bay_, giving
the name of _Cape Stephens_ to the northwest point, and _Cape Jackson_
to the south-east, after the two gentlemen who at this time were
secretaries to the board.

Admiralty Bay may easily be known by the island that has been just
mentioned, which lies two miles N.E. of Cape Stephens, in latitude 40 deg.
37' S. longitude 185 deg. 6' W., and is of a considerable height. Between
this island and Cape Farewell, which are between fourteen and fifteen
leagues distant from each other, in the direction of W. by N. and E. by
S. the shore forms a large deep bay, the bottom of which we could
scarcely see while we were sailing in a straight line from one Cape to
the other; it is, however, probably of less depth than it appeared to
be, for as we found the water shallower here, than at the same distance
from any other part of the coast, there is reason to suppose, that the
land at the bottom which lies next the sea is low, and therefore not
easily to be distinguished from it. I have for this reason called it
_Blind Bay_, and am of opinion that it is the same which was called
Murderer's Bay by Tasman.[68]

[Footnote 68: The three following sections of the original are occupied
by unsatisfactory accounts of New Zealand, which it seemed very
unadvisable to give here, as the subject must be resumed when we come to
the third voyage of Captain Cook. It was equally objectionable to
anticipate fuller information _now_, and to repeat imperfect notices
_hereafter_. The present omission will be made up to the reader's
content. We now go on with the remainder of the narrative.--E.]

SECTION XXVIII.

_The Run from New Zealand to Botany Bay, on the East Coast of New
Holland, now called New South Wales; various Incidents that happened
there; with some Account of the Country and its Inhabitants_.

Having sailed from Cape Farewell, which lies in latitude 40 deg. 33' S.,
longitude 186 deg. W., on Saturday the 31st of March, 1770, we steered
westward, with a fresh gale at N.N.E., and at noon on the 2d of April,
our latitude, by observation, was 40 deg., our longitude from Cape Farewell
2 deg. 31' W.

In the morning of the 9th, being in latitude 38 deg. 29' S. we saw a tropic
bird which in so high a latitude is very uncommon.

In the morning of the 10th, being in latitude 38 deg. 51' S., longitude 202 deg.
43' W., we found the variation, by the amplitude, to be 11 deg. 25' E. and
by the azimuth 11 deg. 20'.

In the morning of the 11th, the variation was 13 deg. 48', which is two
degrees and a half more than the day before, though I expected to have
found it less.

In the course of the 13th, being in latitude 39 deg. 23' S., longitude 204 deg.
2' W., I found the variation to be 12 deg. 27' E., and in the morning of the
14th, it was 11 deg. 30'; this day we also saw some flying fish. On the
15th, we saw an egg bird and a gannet, and as these are birds that never
go far from the land, we continued to sound all night, but had no ground
with 130 fathom. At noon on the 16th, we were in latitude 39 deg. 45' S.,
longitude 208 deg. W. At about two o'clock the wind came about to the W.S.W.
upon which we tacked and stood to the N.W.; soon after, a small
land-bird perched upon the rigging, but we had no ground with 120
fathom. At eight we wore and stood to the southward till twelve at
night, and then wore and stood to the N.W. till four in the morning,
when we again stood to the southward, having a fresh gale at W.S.W. with
squalls and dark weather till nine, when the weather became clear, and
there being little wind, we had an opportunity to take several
observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 207 deg. 56'
W. longitude: Our latitude at noon was 39 deg. 36' S. We had now a hard gale
from the southward, and a great sea from the same quarter, which obliged
us to run under our fore-sail and mizen all night, during which we
sounded every two hours, but had no ground with 120 fathom.

In the morning of the 18th, we saw two Port Egmont hens, and a pintado
bird, which are certain signs of approaching land, and indeed by our
reckoning we could not be far from it, for our longitude was now one
degree to the westward of the east side of Van Diemen's land, according
to the longitude laid down by Tasman, whom we could not suppose to have
erred much in so short a run as from this land to New Zealand, and by
our latitude we could not be above fifty or fifty-five leagues from the
place whence he took his departure. All this day we had frequent
squalls and a great swell. At one in the morning we brought-to and
sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathom; at six we saw land extending
from N.E. to W. at the distance of five or six leagues, having eighty
fathom, water with a fine sandy bottom.

We continued standing westward, with the wind at S.S.W. till eight, when
we made all the sail we could, and bore away along the shore N.E. for
the eastermost land in sight, being at this time in latitude 37 deg. 58' S.,
and longitude 210 deg. 39' W. The southermost point of land in sight, which
bore from us W. 1/4 S., I judged to lie in latitude 38 deg., longitude 211 deg.
7', and gave it the name of _Point Hicks_, because Mr Hicks, the first
lieutenant, was the first who discovered it. To the southward of this
Point no land was to be seen, though it was very clear in that quarter,
and by our longitude, compared with that of Tasman, not as it is laid
down in the printed charts, but in the extracts from Tasman's journal,
published by Rembrantse, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to have
borne due south; and indeed, from the sudden falling of the sea after
the wind abated, I had reason to think it did; yet as I did not see it,
and as I found this coast trend N.E. and S.W. or rather more to the
eastward, I cannot determine whether it joins to Van Diemen's land or
not.[69]

[Footnote 69: This part of geography has been a good deal improved since
Cook's time, as will be illustrated in progress. Van Diemen's land,
which was formerly reckoned a part of New Holland, and is marked as such
in the accompanying chart, is separated from it by Bass's Strait, which
is about 30 leagues in breadth,' and contains several groups of islands.
Of these more hereafter.--E.]

At noon, we were in latitude 370 deg. 5', longitude 210 deg. 29' W. The extremes
of the land extended from N.W. to E.N.E. and a remarkable point bore N.
20 E. at the distance of about four leagues. This point rises in a round
hillock, very much resembling the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth
Sound, and therefore I called it by the same name. The variation by an
azimuth, taken this morning, was 3 deg. 7' E.; and what we had now seen of
the land, appeared low and level: The sea-shore was a white sand, but
the country within was green and woody. About one o'clock, we saw three
water spouts at once; two were between us and the shore, and the third
at some distance, upon our larboard quarter: This phenomenon is so well
known, that it is not necessary to give a particular description of it
here.