A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 13

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About three o'clock in the afternoon, three canoes came up to the ship
with between thirty and forty people on board, who had been pulling
after us with great labour and perseverance for some time: They appeared
to be more cleanly, and a better class, than we had met with since we
left the Bay of Islands, and their canoes were also distinguished by the
same ornaments which we had seen upon the northerly part of the coast.
They came on board with very little invitation; and their behaviour was
courteous and friendly: Upon receiving presents from us, they made us
presents in return, which had not been done by any of the natives that
we had seen before. We soon perceived that our guests had heard of us,
for as soon as they came on board, they asked for _whow_, the name by
which nails were known among the people with whom we had trafficked: but
though they had heard of nails, it was plain they had seen none; for
when nails were given them, they asked Tupia what they were. The term
_whow_, indeed, conveyed to them the idea not of their quality, but only
of their use; for it is the same by which they distinguish a tool,
commonly made of bone, which they use both as an auger and a chisel.
However, their knowing that we had _whow_ to sell was a proof that their
connections extended as far north as Cape Kidnappers, which was distant
no less than forty-five leagues; for that was the southermost place on
this side the coast where we had had any traffic with the natives. It is
also probable, that the little knowledge which the inhabitants of Queen
Charlotte's Sound had of iron, they obtained from their neighbours at
Tierawitte; for we had no reason to think that the inhabitants of any
part of this coast had the least knowledge of iron or its use before we
came among them, especially as when it was first offered they seemed to
disregard it, as of no value. We thought it probable, that we were now
once more in the territories of Teratu; but upon enquiring of these
people, they said that he was not their king. After a short time, they
went away, much gratified with the presents that we had made them; and
we pursued our course along the shore to the N.E. till eleven o'clock
the next morning. About this time the weather happening to clear up, we
saw Cape Turnagain, bearing N. by E. 1/2 E. at the distance of about
seven leagues: I then called the officers upon deck, and asked them,
whether they were not now satisfied, that Eahienomauwe was an island;
they readily answered in the affirmative, and all doubts being now
removed, we hauled our wind to the eastward.

SECTION XXVII.

_Range from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern Coast of
Poenammoo, round Cape South, and bade to the western Entrance of Cook's
Streight, which completed the Circumnavigation of this Country; with a
Description of the Coast, and of Admiralty Bay: The Departure from New
Zealand, and various Particulars_.

At four o'clock in the afternoon of Friday the 9th of February, we
tacked, and stood S.W. till eight o'clock the next morning; when, being
not above three or four miles from the shore, we stood off two hours,
and then again S.W. till noon, when, at the distance of about two miles
from the shore, we had twenty-six fathom water.

We continued to make sail to the southward till sunset on the 11th, when
a fresh breeze at N.E. had carried us back again the length of Cape
Palliser, of which, as the weather was clear, we had a good view. It is
of a height sufficient to be seen in clear weather at the distance of
twelve or fourteen leagues, and the land is of a broken and hilly
surface. Between the foot of the high land and the sea there is a low
flat border, off which there are some rocks that appear above water.
Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain, the land near the shore is, in
many places, low and flat, and has a green and pleasant appearance; but
farther from the sea it rises into hills. The land between Cape Palliser
and Cape Tierawitte is high, and makes in table-points; it also seemed
to us to form two bays, but we were at too great a distance from this
part of the coast to judge accurately from appearances. The wind having
been variable, with calms, we had advanced no farther by the 12th at
noon than latitude 41 deg. 52', Cape Palliser then bearing north, distant
about five leagues; and the snowy mountain S. 83 W.

At noon on the 13th, we found ourselves in the latitude of 42 deg. 2' S.;
Cape Palliser bearing N. 20 E. distant eight leagues. In the afternoon,
a fresh gale sprung up at N.E. and we steered S.W. by W. for the
southermost land in sight, which at sun-set bore from us S. 74 W. At
this time the variation was 15 deg. 4' E.

At eight o'clock on the morning of the 14th, having run one-and-twenty
leagues S. 58 W. since the preceding noon, it fell calm. We were then
abreast of the snowy mountain which bore from us N.W. and in this
direction lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the same height,
which rises directly from the sea, and runs parallel with the shore,
which lies N.E. 1/2 N. and S.W. 1/2 S. The north-west end of the ridge
rises inland, not far from Cape Campbell; and both the mountain and the
ridge are distinctly seen as well from Cape Koamaroo as Cape Palliser:
From Koamaroo they are distant two-and-twenty leagues S.W. 1/2 S.; and
from Cape Palliser thirty leagues W.S.W.; and are of a height sufficient
to be seen at a much greater distance. Some persons on board were of
opinion that they were as high as Teneriffe; but I did not think them as
high as Mount Egmont on the south-west coast of Eahienomauwe; because
the snow, which almost entirely covered Mount Egmont, lay only in
patches upon these. At noon this day, we were in latitude 42 deg. 34' S. The
southermost land in sight bore S.W. 1/2 S.; and some low land that
appeared like an island, and lay close under the foot of the ridge, bore
N.W. by N. about five or six leagues.

In the afternoon, when Mr Banks was out in the boat a-shooting, we saw
with our glasses, four double canoes, having on board fifty-seven men,
put off from that shore, and make towards him: We immediately made
signals for him to come on board; but the ship, with respect to him,
being right in the wake of the sun, he did not see them. We were at a
considerable distance from the shore, and he was at a considerable
distance from the ship, which was between him and the shore; so that, it
being a dead calm, I began to be in some pain for him, fearing that he
might not see the canoes time enough to reach the ship before they
should get up with him: Soon after, however, we saw his boat in motion,
and had the pleasure to take him on board before the Indians came up,
who probably had not seen him, as their attention seemed to be wholly
fixed upon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast, and then
stopped, gazing at us with a look of vacant astonishment: Tupia exerted
all his eloquence to prevail upon them to come nearer, but without any
effect. After surveying us for some time, they left us, and made towards
the shore; but had not measured more than half the distance between that
and the ship before it was dark. We imagined that these people had heard
nothing of us, and could not but remark the different behaviour and
dispositions of the inhabitants of the different parts of this coast
upon their first approaching the vessel. These kept aloof with a mixture
of timidity and wonder: Others had immediately commenced hostilities, by
pelting us with stones: The gentleman whom we had found alone, fishing
in his boat, seemed to think us entirely unworthy of his notice; and
some, almost without invitation, had come on board with an air of
perfect confidence and good-will. From the behaviour of our last
visitors, I gave the land from which they had put off, and which, as I
have before observed, had the appearance of an island, the name of
Lookers-on.

At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze sprung up at S.S.W. with which
I stretched of south-east, because some on board thought they saw land
in that quarter. In this course we continued till six o'clock the next
morning, when we had run eleven leagues, but saw no land, except that
which we had left. Having stood to the S.E. with a light breeze, which
veered from the west to the north, till noon, our latitude by
observation was 42 deg. 56' S., and the high land that we were abreast of
the preceding noon bore N.N.W. 1/2 W. In the afternoon we had a light
breeze at N.E. with which we steered west, edging in for the land, which
was distant about eight leagues. At seven in the evening, we were about
six leagues from the shore, and the southermost extremity of the land in
sight bore W.S.W.

At day-break on the 16th, we discovered land bearing S. by W. and
seemingly detached from the coast we were upon. About eight, a breeze
sprung up, at N. by E. and we steered directly for it. At noon, we were
in latitude 43 deg. 19' S. the peak on the snowy mountain bore N. 20 E.
distant twenty-seven leagues; the southern extremity of the land we
could see bore west, and the land which had been discovered in the
morning appeared like an island extending from S.S.W. to S.W. by W. 1/2
W. distant about eight leagues. In the afternoon, we stood to the
southward of it, with a fresh breeze at north: At eight in the evening,
we had run eleven leagues, and the land then extended from S.W. by W. to
N. by W. We were then distant about three or four leagues from the
nearest shore, and in this situation had fifty fathom water, with a fine
sandy bottom. The variation of the compass by this morning's amplitude
was 14 deg. 39' E.

At sun-rise, the next morning, our opinion that the land we had been
standing for was an island, was confirmed, by our seeing part of the
land of Tovy Poenammoo open to the westward of it, extending as far as
W. by S. At eight in the morning, the extremes of the island bore N. 76
W. and N.N.E. 1/2 E.; and an opening near the south point, which had the
appearance of a bay or harbour, N. 20 W. distant between three and four
leagues: In this situation we had thirty-eight fathom water, with a
brown sandy bottom.

This island, which I named after Mr Banks, lies about five leagues from
the coast of Tovy Poenamoo; the south point bears S. 21 W. from the
highest peak on the snowy mountain, and lies in latitude 43 deg. 32' S. and
in longitude 186 deg. 30' W. by an observation of the sun and moon which was
made this morning: It is of a circular figure, and about twenty-four
leagues in compass: It is sufficiently high to be seen at the distance
of twelve or fifteen leagues, and the land has a broken irregular
surface, with the appearance rather of barrenness than fertility; yet it
was inhabited, for we saw smoke in one place, and a few straggling
natives in another.

When this island was first discovered in the direction of S. by W. some
persons on board were of opinion that they also saw land bearing S.S.E.
and S.E. by E. I was myself upon the deck at the time, and told them,
that in my opinion it was no more than a cloud, and that as the sun rose
it would dissipate and vanish. However, as I was determined to leave no
subject for disputation which experiment could remove, I ordered the
ship to be wore, and steered E.S.E. by compass, in the direction which
the land was said to bear from us at that time. At noon, we were in
latitude 44 deg. 7' S.; the south point of Banks's Island bearing north,
distant five leagues. By seven o'clock at night we had run
eight-and-twenty miles, when seeing no land, nor any signs of any, but
that which we had left, we bore away S. by W. and continued upon that
course till the next day at noon, when we were in latitude 45 deg. 16', the
south point of Banks's Island bearing N. 6 deg. 30' W. distant twenty-eight
leagues. The variation by the azimuth this morning was 15 deg. 30' E. As no
signs of land had yet appeared to the southward, and as I thought that
we had stood far enough in that direction to weather all the land we had
left, judging from the report of the natives in Queen Charlotte's Sound,
I hauled to the westward.

We had a moderate breeze at N.N.W.N. till eight in the evening, when it
became unsettled; and at ten fixed at south: During the night, it blew
with such violence that it brought us under our close reefed topsails.
At eight the next morning, having run twenty-eight leagues upon a W. by
N. 1/2 N. course, and judging ourselves to be to the westward of the
land of Tovy Poenammoo, we bore away N.W. with a fresh gale at south. At
ten, having run eleven miles upon this course, we saw land extending
from the S.W. to the N.W. at the distance of about ten leagues, which we
hauled up for. At noon, our latitude by observation was 44 deg. 38', the
south-east point of Banks's Island bore N. 58 deg. 30' E. distant thirty
leagues, and the main body of the land in sight W. by N. A head sea
prevented us from making much way to the southward; at seven in the
evening the extremes of the land stretched from S.W. by S. to N. by W.;
and at six leagues from the shore we had thirty-two fathom water. At
four o'clock the next morning, we stood in for the shore W. by S. and
during a course of four leagues, our depth of water was from thirty-two
to thirteen fathom. When it was thirteen fathom we were but three miles
distant from the shore, and therefore stood off; its direction is here
nearly N. and S. The surface, to the distance of about five miles from
the sea, is low and flat; but it then rises into hills of a considerable
height. It appeared to be totally barren, and we saw no signs of its
being inhabited. Our latitude, at noon, was 44 deg. 44'; and the longitude
which we made from Banks's Island to this place was 2 deg. 22' W. During the
last twenty-four hours, though we carried as much sail as the ship would
bear, we were driven three leagues to the leeward.

We continued to stand off and on all this day and the next, keeping at
the distance of between four and twelve leagues from the shore, and
having water from thirty-five to fifty-three fathom. On the 22d, at
noon, we had no observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be
about three leagues farther north than we had been the day before. At
sun-set, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up, we saw a
mountain which rose in a high peak, bearing N.W. by N.; and at the same
time, we saw the land more distinctly than before, extending from N. to
S.W. by S. which, at some distance within the coast, had a lofty and
mountainous appearance. We soon found that the accounts which had been
given us by the Indians in Queen Charlotte's Sound of the land to the
southward were not true; for they had told us that it might be
circumnavigated in four days.

On the 23d, having a hollow swell from the S.E. and expecting wind from
the same quarter, we kept plying between seven and fifteen leagues from
the shore, having from seventy to forty-four fathom. At noon, our
latitude by observation was 44 deg. 40' S. and our longitude from Banks's
Island 1 deg. 31' W. From this time to six in the evening it was calm; but a
light breeze then springing up at E.N.E. we steered S.S.E. all night,
edging off from the land, the hollow swell still continuing; our depth
of water was from sixty to seventy-five fathom. While we were becalmed,
Mr Banks, being out in the boat, shot two Port Egmont hens, which were
in every respect the same as those that are found in great numbers upon
the island of Faro, and were the first of the kind we had seen upon this
coast, though we fell in with some a few days before we made land.

At day-break, the wind freshened, and before noon we had a strong gale
at N.N.E. At eight in the morning we saw the land extending as far as
S.W. by S. and steered directly for it. At noon, we were in latitude 45 deg.
22' S.; and the land, which now stretched from S.W. 1/2 S. to N.N.W.
appeared to be rudely diversified by hill and valley. In the afternoon,
we steered S.W. by S. and S.W. edging in for the land with a fresh gale
at north; but though we were at no great distance, the weather was so
hazy that we could see nothing distinctly upon it, except a ridge of
high hills, lying not far from the sea, and parallel to the coast, which
in this place stretches S. by W. and N. by E. and seemed to end in a
high bluff point to the southward. By eight in the evening we were
abreast of this point; but it being then dark, and I not knowing which
way the land trended, we brought-to for the night. At this time, the
point bore west, and was distant about five miles: Our depth of water
was thirty-seven fathom, and the bottom consisted of small pebbles.

At day-break, having made sail, the point bore north, distant three
leagues, and we now found that the land trended from it S.W. by W. as
far as we could see. This point I named Cape Saunders, in honour of Sir
Charles. Our latitude was 45 deg. 35' S., and longitude 189 deg. 4' W. By the
latitude, and the angles that are made by the coast, this point will be
sufficiently known; there is, however, about three or four leagues to
the south-west of it, and very near the shore, a remarkable saddle-hill,
which is a good direction to it on that quarter. From one league to four
leagues north of Cape Saunders, the shore forms two or three bays, in
which there appeared to be good anchorage, and effectual shelter from
the S.W. westerly, and N. westerly winds; but my desire of getting to
the southward, in order to ascertain whether this country was an island
or a continent, prevented my putting into any of them.

We kept at a small distance from the shore all this morning, with the
wind at S.W., and had a very distinct view of it: It is of a moderate
height, and the surface is broken by many hills which are green and
woody; but we saw no appearance of inhabitants. At noon, Cape Saunders
bore N. 30 W. distant about four leagues. We had variable winds and
calms till five o'clock in the evening, when it fixed at W.S.W. and soon
blew so hard that it put us past our topsail, and split the foresail
all to pieces: After getting another to the yard, we continued to stand
to the southward under two courses; and at six the next morning, the
southermost land in sight bore W. by N. and Cape Saunders N. by W.
distant eight leagues: At noon, it bore N. 20 W. fourteen leagues; and
our latitude by observation was 46 deg. 36'. The gale continued, with heavy
squalls and a large hollow sea all the afternoon; and at seven in the
evening, we lay-to under our foresail, with the ship's head to the
southward: At noon on the 27th, our latitude was 46 deg. 54', and our
longitude from Cape Saunders 1 deg. 24' E. At seven in the evening, we made
sail under our courses; and at eight the next morning set the top-sails
close reefed. At noon, our latitude was 47 deg. 43', and our longitude east
from Cape Saunders 2 deg. 10'. At this time we wore and stood to the
northward: In the afternoon, we found the variation to be 16 deg. 34' E. At
eight in the evening, we tacked and stood to the southward, with the
wind at west.

At noon, this day, our latitude, by account, was 47 deg. 52', and our
longitude from Cape Saunders 1 deg. 8' E. We stood to the southward till
half an hour past three in the afternoon; and then, being in latitude
48 deg. S. and longitude 188 deg. W., and seeing no appearance of land, we
tacked and stood to the northward, having a large swell from the S.W. by
W. At noon, the next day, our latitude was 46 deg. 42' S.; and Cape Saunders
bore N. 46 W. distant eighty-six miles. The south-west swell continuing
till the 3d, confirmed our opinion, that there was no land in that
quarter. At four in the afternoon, we stood to the westward with all the
sail we could make. In the morning of the 4th, we found the variation to
be 16 deg. 16' E. This day we saw some whales and seals, as we had done
several times after our having passed the streight; but we saw no seals
while we were upon the coast of Eahienomauwe. We sounded both in the
night and this morning, but had no ground with one hundred and fifty
fathom. At noon, we saw Cape Saunders bearing N. 1/2 W.; and our
latitude by observation was 46 deg. 31' S. At half an hour past one o'clock,
we saw land bearing W. by S., which we steered for, and before it was
dark were within three or four miles of it: During the whole night we
saw fires upon it, and at seven in the morning were within about three
leagues of the shore, which appeared to be high, but level. At three
o'clock in the afternoon, we saw the land extending from N.E. by N. to
N.W. 1/2 N.; and soon after we discovered some low land, which appeared
like an island, bearing S. 1/2 W. We continued our course to the W. by
S., and in two hours we saw high land over the low land, extending to
the southward as far as S.W. by S.; but it did not appear to be joined
to the land to the northward, so that there is either water, a deep bay,
or low land between them.

At noon on the 6th, we were nearly in the same situation as at noon on
the day before: In the afternoon we found the variation, by several
azimuths and the amplitude, to be 15 deg. 10' E. On the 7th at noon, we were
in latitude 47 deg. 6' S. and had made twelve miles easting during the last
twenty-four hours. We stood to the westward the remainder of this day,
and all the next till sun-set, when the extremes of the land bore from
N. by E. to W. distant about seven or eight leagues: In this situation
our depth of water was fifty-five fathom, and the variation by amplitude
16 deg. 29' E. The wind now veered from the N. to the W., and as we had fine
weather, and moon-light, we kept standing close upon the wind to the
S.W. all night. At four in the morning, we had sixty fathom water; and
at day-light, we discovered under our bow a ledge of rocks, extending
from S. by W. to W. by S. upon which the sea broke very high: They were
not more than three quarters of a mile distant, yet we had
five-and-forty fathom water. As the wind was at N.W. we could not now
weather them, and as I was unwilling to run to leeward, I tacked and
made a trip to the eastward; the wind however soon after coming to the
northward, enabled us to get clear of all. Our soundings, while we were
passing within the ledge, were from thirty-five to forty-seven fathom,
with a rocky bottom.

This ledge lies S.E. six leagues from the southermost part of the land,
and S.E. by E. from some remarkable hills which stand near the shore:
About three leagues to the northward of it, there is another ledge,
which lies full three leagues from the shore, and on which the sea broke
in a dreadful surf. As we passed these rocks to the north in the night,
and discovered the others under our bow at break of day, it is manifest
that our danger was imminent, and our escape critical in the highest
degree: From the situation of these rocks, so well adapted to catch
unwary strangers, I called them the _Traps_. Our latitude at noon was
47 deg. 26' S. The land in sight, which had the appearance of an island,
extended from N.E. by N. to N.W. by W. and seemed to be about five
leagues distant from the main; the eastermost ledge of rocks bore S.S.E.
distant one league and a half, and the northermost N.E. 1/2 E. distant
about three leagues. This land is high and barren, with nothing upon it
but a few straggling shrubs, for not a single tree was to be seen; it
was however remarkable for a number of white patches which I took to be
marble, as they reflected the sun's rays very strongly: Other patches of
the same kind we had observed in different parts of this country,
particularly in Mercury Bay: We continued to stand close upon a wind to
the westward, and at sun-set the southermost point of land bore N. 38 E.
distant four leagues, and the westermost land in sight bore N. 2 E. The
point which lies in latitude 47 deg. 19' S. longitude.192 deg. 12' W. I named
_South Cape_; the westermost land was a small island, lying off the
point of the main.

Supposing South Cape to be the southern extremity of this country, as
indeed it proved to be, I hoped to get round it by the west, for a large
hollow swell from the south-west, ever since our last hard gale, had
convinced me that there was no land in that direction.

In the night we had a hard gale at N.E. by N. and N. which brought us
under our courses, but about eight in the morning it became moderate;
and at noon veering to the west, we tacked and stood to the northward,
having no land in sight. Our latitude, by observation, was 47 deg. 33' S.
our longitude, west from the South Cape, 59'. We stood away N.N.E. close
upon a wind, without seeing any land, till two the next morning, when we
discovered an island bearing N.W. by N. distant about five leagues:
About two hours afterwards we saw land a-head, upon which we tacked and
stood off till six, when we stood in to take a nearer view of it: At
eleven we were within three leagues of it, but the wind seeming to
incline upon the shore, I tacked and stood off to the southward. We had
now sailed round the land which we had discovered on the 5th, and which
then did not appear to be joined to the main which lay north of it; and
being now come to the other side of what we supposed to be water, a bay,
or low land, it had the same appearance, but when I came to lay it down
upon paper I saw no reason to suppose it to be an island; on the
contrary, I was clearly of opinion that it made part of the main. At
noon, the western extremity of the main bore N. 59 W., and the island
which we had seen in the morning S. 59 W. distant about five leagues.
It lies in latitude 46 deg. 31' S. longitude 192 deg. 49' W., and is nothing
but a barren rock about a mile in circuit, remarkably high, and lies
full five leagues distant from the main. This island I named after Dr
Solander, and called it _Solander's Island_. The shore of the main lies
nearest E. by S. and W. by N. and forms a large open bay, in which there
is no appearance of any harbour or shelter for shipping against S.W. and
southerly winds: The surface of the country is broken into craggy hills,
of a great height, on the summits of which are several patches of snow:
It is not, however, wholly barren, for we could see wood not only in the
vallies, but upon the highest ground, yet we saw no appearance of its
being inhabited.