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A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 12 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 12

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I now steered N.W. by N. to get from under the sun, and had light winds
at E.S.E. with which almost any ship but the Swallow would have made
good way, but with every possible advantage she went at a heavy rate. We
now found our variation begin again to decrease, as will appear by the
following table:

Longitude from Queen
Latitude. Charlotte's Foreland. Variation.

40'S. 8 deg. 36'W. 4 deg. 40'E.
Upon the Line. 9 40 W. 4 17 E.
.30'N. 10 30 W. 3 10 E.
2 deg. N. 11 40 W. 2 30 E.
2 deg. 50' N. 12 10 W. 2 E.

On the 28th, being in latitude 2 deg. 53' N. longitude 136 deg. 10' E. we fell
in with a very dangerous shoal, which is about eleven or twelve miles in
circuit, and surrounded with small stones that just shew themselves
above water. We found here a strong northerly current, but could not
determine whether it inclined to the east or west. In the evening, we
discovered from the mast-head another island to the southward of us; the
east end of it seemed to rise in a peak, and had the appearance of a
sail, but we did not go near enough to see anything of it from the deck.
I suppose its latitude to be about 2 deg. 50' N. and its longitude east of
London about 136 deg. 10' E.

We continued to have a current to the northward till Monday the 5th of
October, when, being in latitude 4 deg. 30' N. I found it southerly, and
very strong. I had, among other deficiencies and misfortunes, no small
boat on board, so that I could not try these currents, which I had a
great desire to do; but I am of opinion, that when the current set
southward, it inclined to the east; and that when it set northward, it
inclined to the west.

On Monday the 12th, we discovered a small island, with trees upon it,
though scarcely bigger than a rock; and I called it _Current Island_. It
lies in latitude 4 deg.40'N. longitude 14 deg.24'W. of Queen Charlotte's
Foreland. The next day, we discovered two other small islands, which I
called _Saint Andrew's Islands_. They lie in latitude 5 deg.18'N. longitude
14 deg.47'W. of Queen Charlotte's Foreland. I called the small island
Current Island, because we had here a southerly current so strong that
it set us from twenty-four to thirty miles southward every day, besides
the difference it might make in our longitude. The wind was now
variable, blowing by turns from every point in the compass, with much
rain and hard squalls. On Tuesday the 20th, being in latitude 8 deg.N. it
blew with such violence that we were obliged to lie-to sixty-four hours.
This gale, which made a very great sea, I supposed to be the shifting of
the monsoon; and, notwithstanding the southerly current, it drove us,
while we lay-to, as far as nine degrees northward.



SECTION VIII.

_Some Account of the Coast of Mindanao, and the Islands near it, in
which some Mistakes of Dampier are corrected._


On the 26th, we discovered land again, but not being able to make an
observation, we could ascertain our latitude and longitude only by our
dead reckoning; the next day, however, was more favourable, and I then
found the effect of the current had been so great, that I was obliged to
add to the log S.W. by S. no less than sixty-four miles for the last two
days. We now knew that the land we had seen was the north-east part of
the island of Mindanao.[60] As I had many sick people on board, and was
in the most pressing need of refreshments, I determined to try what
could be procured in a bay which Dampier has described as lying on the
south-east part of the island, and which, he says, furnished him with
great plenty of deer from a savannah. I therefore coasted that side of
the island, and that I might be sure not to miss the bay, I sent out the
lieutenant with the boat and a proper number of hands, to keep in-shore
a-head of the ship. No such bay, however, was to be found; but, at the
very southernmost extremity of the island, they opened a little nook, at
the bottom of which was a town and a fort. As soon as our boat was
discovered by the people on shore, they fired a great gun, and sent off
three boats or canoes full of people. As the lieutenant had not a
sufficient force to oppose them, he immediately made towards the ship,
and the canoes chaced him till they came within sight of her, and being
then overmatched in their turn, they thought fit to go back. Being thus
disappointed in my search of Dampier's Bay and Savannah, I would have
anchored off this town, notwithstanding these hostile appearances, if it
had not been necessary first to get up some guns from the hold, and make
a few necessary repairs in the rigging; this however being the case, I
ran a little to the eastward, where, on the 3d of November, I came to an
anchor in a little bay, having a bottom of soft mud, and seven fathom of
water, at the distance of a cable's length from the shore. The
westermost point of the bay bore W.S.W. distant about three miles; the
easier-most point E. by S. distant about one mile; a river, which
empties itself into the bay, about N.W. and the peak of an island,
called Hummock Island, S. 7 deg. E. distant about five leagues. Before it
was dark the same day, our two boats went to the river, and brought off
their loads of water: They saw no signs of inhabitants where they were
on shore, but we observed a canoe come round the westermost point of the
bay, which we supposed had been dispatched from the town, to learn what
we were, or at least to see what we were doing. As soon as I discovered
this canoe, I hoisted English colours, and was not without hope that she
would come on board: but after viewing us some time, she returned. As we
had seen no inhabitants, nor any signs of inhabitants where we got our
water, I intended to procure a further supply the next day from the same
place, and endeavour also to recruit our wood; but about nine o'clock at
night, we were suddenly surprised by a loud noise on that part of the
shore which was a-breast of the ship: It was made by a great number of
human voices, and very much resembled the war-whoop of the American
savages; a hideous shout which they give at the moment of their attack,
and in which all who have heard it agree there is something
inexpressibly terrifying and horrid.

[Footnote 60: For some particulars respecting this island, see vol. X.
p. 275, &c. Playfair's and Pinkerton's Geography also may be
advantageously consulted as to Mindanao and the other eastern islands
spoken of in this voyage. Some account will be given of them when we
come to treat of Cook's discoveries.]

As I was now farther convinced that it was necessary to dispose of our
little force to the greatest advantage, we began the next day by getting
the guns up from the hold, and making the necessary repairs to our
rigging. At eleven o'clock, not having seen any thing of the people, who
had endeavoured to terrify us by their yells in the night, I sent the
long-boat on shore for more water; but as I thought it probable that
they might have concealed themselves in the woods, I kept the cutter
manned and armed, with the lieutenant on board, that immediate succour
might be sent to the waterers, if any danger should threaten them. It
soon appeared that my conjectures were well-founded, for our people had
no sooner left their boat, than a number of armed men rushed out of the
woods, one of whom held up somewhat white, which I took to be a signal
of peace. Upon this occasion I was again sensible of the mortifying
deficiency in the ship's equipment, which I had so often experienced
before. I had no white flag on board, and therefore, as the best
expedient in my power, I ordered the lieutenant, whom I sent on shore in
the cutter, to display one of my table-cloths: As soon as the officer
landed, the standard-bearer and another came down to him unarmed, and
received him with great appearance of friendship. One of them addressed
him in Dutch, which none of our people understood; he then spoke a few
words in Spanish, in which one of the persons of the cutter was a
considerable proficient: The Indian however spoke it so very
imperfectly, that it was with great difficulty, and by the help of many
signs, he made himself understood; possibly if any of our people had
spoken Dutch, he might have been found equally deficient in that
language. He asked for the captain however by the name of the skipper,
and enquired whether we were Hollanders; whether our ship was intended
for merchandize or for war; how many guns and men she carried; and
whether she had been, or was going to Batavia. When we had satisfied him
in all these particulars, he said that we should go to the town, and
that he would introduce us to the governor, whom he distinguished by the
title of Raja. The lieutenant then told him, that we intended to go to
the town, but that we were in immediate want of water, and therefore
desired permission to fill some casks; he also requested that the people
who were armed with bows and arrows, might be ordered to a greater
distance. With both these requisitions the Indian, who seemed to be
invested with considerable authority, complied; and as he seemed to take
particular notice of a silk handkerchief which the lieutenant had tied
round his neck, it was immediately presented to him; in return for which
he desired him to accept a kind of cravat, made of coarse calico, which
was tied round his own, his dress being somewhat after the Dutch
fashion. After this interchange of cravats, he enquired of the officer
whether the ship was furnished with any articles for trade; to which he
answered that she was sufficiently furnished to trade for provisions,
but nothing more: The chief replied, that whatever we wanted we should
have. After this conference, which I considered as an earnest of every
advantage which this place could afford us, the boats returned on board
laden with water, and we went cheerfully on with our business on board
the ship. In about two hours, however, we saw with equal surprise and
concern, many hundreds of armed men, posting themselves in parties at
different places, among the trees, upon the beach, a-breast of the ship;
their weapons were muskets, bows and arrows, long pikes or spears,
broad-swords, a kind of hanger called a cress, and targets: We observed
also, that they hauled a canoe, which lay under a shed upon the beach,
up into the woods. These were not friendly appearances, and they were
succeeded by others that were still more hostile; for these people spent
all the remainder of the day in entering and rushing out of the woods,
as if they had been making sallies to attack an enemy; sometimes
shooting their arrows, and throwing their lances into the water towards
the ship; and sometimes lifting their targets, and brandishing their
swords at us in a menacing manner. In the mean time we were not idle on
board: We got up our guns, repaired our rigging, and put every thing in
order before evening, and then, being ready to sail, I determined, if
possible, to get another conference with the people on shore, and learn
the reason of so sudden and unaccountable a change of behaviour. The
lieutenant therefore was again dispatched, and as a testimony that our
disposition was still peaceable, the table-cloth was again displayed as
a flag of truce. I had the precaution, however, to order the boat to a
part of the beach which was clear of wood, that the people on board
might not be liable to mischief from enemies whom they could not see; I
also ordered that nobody should go on shore. When the Indians saw the
boat came to the beach, and observed that nobody landed, one of them
came out of the wood, with a bow and arrows in his hand, and made signs
for the boat to come to the place where he stood. This the officer very
prudently declined, as he would then have been within bow-shot of an
ambuscade, and after waiting some time, and finding that a conference
could be procured upon no other terms, he returned back to the ship. It
was certainly in my power to have destroyed many of these unfriendly
people, by firing my great guns into the wood, but it would have
answered no good purpose: We could not afterwards have procured wood and
water here without risking the loss of our own people, and I still hoped
that refreshment might be procured upon friendly terms at the town,
which, now I was in a condition to defend myself against a sudden
assault, I resolved to visit.

The next morning, therefore, as soon as it was light, I sailed from this
place, which I called _Deceitful Bay_, with a light land-breeze, and
between ten and eleven o'clock we got off the bay or nook, at the bottom
of which our boats had discovered the town and fort. It happened however
that just at this time the weather became thick, with heavy rain, and it
began to blow hard from a quarter which made the land here a lee-shore;
this obliged me to stand off, and having no time to lose, I stood away
to the westward, that I might reach Batavia before the season was past.

I shall now give a more particular account of our navigating the sea
that washes the coasts of this island, the rather as Dampier's
description is in several particulars erroneous.

Having seen the north-east part of the island on the twenty-sixth of
October, without certainly knowing whether it was Mindanoa or Saint
John's, we got nearer to it the next day, and made what we knew to be
Saint Augustina, the south-eastermost part of the island, which rises in
little hummocks, that run down to a low point at the water's edge; it
bears N. 40 E. at the distance of two-and-twenty leagues from a little
island, which is distinguished from the other islands that lie off the
southernmost point of Mindanao by a hill or hummock, and which for that
reason I called _Hummock Island_. All this land is very high, one ridge
of mountains rising behind another, so that at a great distance it
appears not like one island but several. After our first discovery of
the island, we kept turning along the east side from the northward to
Cape Saint Augustina, nearly S. by W. 1/2 W. and N. by E. 1/2 E. for
about twenty leagues. The wind was to the southward along the shore, and
as we approached the land, we stood in for an opening, which had the
appearance of a good bay, where we intended to anchor; but we found that
it was too deep for our purpose, and that some shoals rendered the
entrance of it dangerous. To this bay, which lies about eight or ten
leagues N. by E. from Cape Saint Augustina, the south-east extremity of
the island, I gave the name of _Disappointment Bay_. When we were in the
offing standing in for this bay, we observed a large hummock, which had
the appearance of an island, but which I believe to be a peninsula,
joined by a Low isthmus to the main; this hummock formed the
northernmost part of the entrance, and another high bluff point opposite
to it formed the southernmost part; between these two points are the
shoals that have been mentioned; and several small islands, only one of
which can be seen till they are approached very near. On this part of
the coast we saw no signs of inhabitants; the land is of a stupendous
height, with mountains piled upon mountains till the summits are hidden
in the clouds: In the offing therefore it is almost impossible to
estimate its distance, for what appear then to be small hillocks, just
emerging from the water, in comparison of the mountains that are seen
over them, swell into high hills as they are approached, and the
distance is found to be thrice as much as it was imagined; perhaps this
will account for the land here being so ill laid down, and in situations
so very different, as it appears to be in all our English charts. We
found here a strong current setting to the southward along the shore, as
the land trended. The high land that is to the north of Saint Augustina,
becomes gradually lower towards the Cape, a low flat point in which it
terminates, and off which, at a very little distance, lie two large
rocks. Its latitude is 6 deg. 15' N. and the longitude, by. account, 127 deg.
20' E.

From this Cape the land trends away W. and W. by S. for six or seven
leagues, and then turns up to the N.W. making a very deep bay, the
bottom of which, as we crossed it from Saint Augustina to the high land
on the other side, which is not less than twelve leagues, we could not
see. The coast on the farther side of it, coming up from the bottom,
trends first to the S. and S.S.W. and then to the S.W. by W. towards the
south extremity of the island.

Off this southern extremity, which Dampier calls the south-east by
mistake, the south-east being Saint Augustina, at the distance of five,
six, and seven leagues, lie ten or twelve islands, though Dampier says
there are only two, and that together they are about five leagues round.
The islands that I saw could not be contained in a circuit of less than
fifteen leagues, and from the number of boats that I saw among them I
imagine they are well inhabited. The largest of these lies to the S.W.
of the others, and makes in a remarkable peak, so that it is first seen
in coming in with the land, and is indeed visible at a very great
distance. Its latitude I make 5 deg. 24' N., and its longitude, by account,
126 deg. 37' E. This island, which I called _Hummock Island_, bears from
Saint Augustina, S. 40 W. at the distance of between twenty and
two-and-twenty leagues; and from the same Cape, the southermost part of
the island Mindanao bears S.W. 3/4 W. at the distance of between
twenty-one and twenty-three leagues. This southermost extremity consists
of three or four points, which bear east and west of each other for
about seven miles. They lie in latitude 5 deg. 34' N., longitude 126 deg. 25' E.
according to my account. The variation here was one point east.

I passed between these islands and the main, and found the passage good,
the current setting to the westward. Dampier has placed his bay and
savannah four leagues N.W. from the easternmost island, and there I
sought it, as indeed I did on all the S.E. part of the island till we
came to the little creek which ran up to the town.

All the southern part of Mindanao is extremely pleasant, with many spots
where the woods had been cleared for plantations, and fine lawns of a
beautiful verdure: This part also is well inhabited, as well as the
neighbouring islands. Of the town I can give no account, as the weather
was so thick that I could not see it; neither could I sufficiently
distinguish the land to set off the points, at which I was not a little
mortified.

When I came to open the land to the westward of the southermost point, I
found it trend from that point W.N.W. and N.W. by W. forming first a
point at the distance of about seven or eight leagues, and then a very
deep bay running so far into the N. and N.E. that I could not see the
bottom of it. The westermost point of this bay is low, but the land soon
rises again, and runs along to the N.W. by W., which seems to be the
direction of this coast, from the southermost point of the island
towards the city of Mindanao.

To the westward of this deep bay, the land is all flat, and in
comparison of the other parts of the island, but thinly wooded. Over
this flat appears a peak of stupendous height, which rises into the
clouds like a tower. Between the entrance of this bay and the south
point of the island there is another very high hill, the top of which
has the funnel shape of a volcano, but I did not perceive that it
emitted either fire or smoke. It is possible that this deep bay is that
which Dampier mentions, and that is misplaced by an error of the press;
for, if, instead of saying it bore N.W. _four_ leagues from the
_eastermost_ of the islands, he had said it bore N.W. _fourteen_ leagues
from the _westermost_ of the islands, it would correspond well with his
description, the bearings being the same, and the land on the east side
of it high, and low on the west: He is also nearly right in the latitude
of his islands, which he makes 5 deg. 10' N.; for probably some parts of
the southermost of them may lie in that latitude; but as I did not go to
the southward of them, this is only conjecture.

Between Hummock Island, which is the largest and westermost of them, and
the islands to the eastward of it, which are all flat and even, is a
passage running north and south, which appears to be clear. The
north-eastermost of these islands is small, low, and flat, with a white
sandy beach all round it, and a great many trees in the middle. East, or
north-east of this island, there are shoals and breakers; and I saw no
other appearance of danger in these parts. Neither did I see any of the
islands which are mentioned by Dampier, and laid down in all the charts,
near Mindanao in the offing: Perhaps they are at a more remote distance
than is commonly supposed; for without great attention, navigators will
be much deceived in this particular by the height of the land, as I have
observed already. As I coasted this island, I found the current set very
strong to the southward along the shore, till I came to the south end of
it, where I found it run N.W. and N.W. by W. which is nearly as the land
trends. We had the winds commonly from S.W. to N.W. with light airs,
frequent rain, and unsettled weather.

We now bid farewell to Mindanao, greatly disappointed in our hope of
obtaining refreshments, which at first the inhabitants so readily
promised to furnish. We suspected that there were Dutchmen, or at least
Dutch partisans in the town; and that, having discovered us to be
English, they had dispatched an armed party to prevent our having any
intercourse with the natives, who arrived about two hours after our
friendly conference, and were the people that defied us from the shore.


SECTION IX.

_The Passage from Mindanao to the Island of Celebes, with a particular
Account of the Streight of Macassar, in which many Errors are
corrected._


After leaving Mindanao, I stood to the westward for the passage between
the islands of Borneo and Celebes, called the Streight of Macassar, and
made it on Saturday the 14th. I observed, that during the whole of this
run we had a strong north-westerly current; but that while we were
nearer to Mindanao than Celebes, it ran rather towards the north than
the west; and that when we came nearer to Celebes than we were to
Mindanao, it ran rather towards the west than the north. The land of
Celebes on the north end runs along to the entrance of the passage, is
very lofty, and seems to trend away about W. by S. to a remarkable point
in the passage, which makes in a hummock, and which at first we took for
an island. I believe it to be the same which in the French charts is
called Stroomen Point, but I gave it the name of _Hummock Point_. Its
latitude, according to my account, is 1 deg. 20' N., longitude 121 deg. 39' E.;
and it is a good mark for those to know the passage that fall in with
the land coming from the eastward, who, if possible, should always make
this side of the passage. From Hummock Point the land trends more away
to the southward, about S.W. by W. and to the southward of it there is a
deep bay, full of islands and rocks, which appeared to me to be very
dangerous. Just off the point there are two rocks, which, though they
are above water, cannot be seen, from a ship till she is close to the
land. To the eastward of this point, close to the shore, are two
islands, one of them very flat, long, and even, and the other swelling
into a hill; both these islands, as well as the adjacent country, are
well covered with trees: I stood close in a little to the eastward of
them, and had no ground with an hundred fathom, within half a mile of
the shore, which seemed to be rocky. A little to the westward of these
islands, we saw no less than sixty boats, which were fishing on some
shoals that lie between them and Hammock Point. This part of the shore
appeared to be foul, and I think should not be approached without great
caution. In this place I found the currents various and uncertain,
sometimes setting to the southward, and sometimes to the northward, and
sometimes there was no current at all; the weather also was very
unsettled, and so was the wind; it blew, however, chiefly to the south
and south-west quarter, but we had sometimes sudden and violent gusts,
and tornadoes from the N.W. with thunder, lightning, and rain: These
generally lasted about an hour, when they were succeeded by a dead calm,
and the wind would afterwards spring up fresh from the S.W. or S.S.W.
which was right against us, and blow strong. From these appearances I
conjectured that the shifting season had commenced, and that the west
monsoon would soon set in. The ship sailed so ill that we made very
little way; we frequently sounded in this passage, but could get no
ground.

On the 21st of November, as we were standing towards Borneo, we made two
small islands, which I judged to be the same that in the French chart
are called Taba Islands: They are very small, and covered with trees. By
my account, they lie in latitude 1 deg. 44' N., longitude 7 deg. 32 W. off the
south end of Mindanao, and are distant from Hummock, or Stroomen Point,
about fifty-eight leagues. The weather was now hazy, but happening
suddenly to clear up, we saw a shoal, with breakers, at the distance of
about five or six miles, from the south to the north-west. Off the north
end of this shoal we saw four hummocks close together, which we took for
small islands, and seven more from the S. 1/2 W. to the W. 1/2 S.:
Whether these are really islands, or some hills on the island of Borneo,
I could not determine. This shoal is certainly very dangerous, but may
be avoided by going to the westward of Taba Islands, where the passage
is clear and broad. In the French chart of Monsieur D'Apres de
Mandevillette, published in 1745, two shoals are laid down, to the
eastward, and a little to the north of these islands: One of them is
called Vanloorif, and the other, on which are placed two islands,
Harigs; but these shoals and islands have certainly no existence, as I
turned through this part of the passage from side to side, and sailed
over the very spot where they are supposed to lie. In the same chart
seven small islands are also laid down within half a degree to the
northward of the Line, and exactly in the middle of the narrowest part
of this passage; but neither have these islands any existence, except
upon paper, though I believe there may-be some small islands close to
the main land of Borneo: We thought we had seen two, which we took to be
those that are laid down in the charts off Porto Tubo, but of this I am
not certain. The southermost and narrowest part of this passage is about
eighteen or twenty leagues broad, with high lands on each side. We
continued labouring in it till the 27th, before we crossed the Line, so
that we were a fortnight in sailing eight-and-twenty leagues, the
distance from the north entrance of the streight, which we made on the
14th. After we got to the southward of the Line, we found a slight
current setting against us to the northward, which daily increased: The
weather was still unsettled, with much wet: The winds were chiefly S.W.
and W.S.W. and very seldom farther to the northward than W.N.W. except
in the tornadoes, which grew more frequent and violent; and by them we
got nothing but hard labour, as they obliged us to hand all our sails,
which indeed with our utmost effort we were scarcely able to do, our
debility daily increasing by the falling sick of the few that were well,
or the death of some among the many that were sick. Under these
circumstances we used our utmost endeavours to get hold of the land on
the Borneo side, but were not able, and continued to struggle with our
misfortunes till the 3d of December, when we fell in with the small
islands and shoals called the Little Pater-nosters, the southermost of
which, according to my account, lies in latitude 2 deg. 31' S. and the
northermost in 2 deg. 15' S. the longitude of the northermost I made 117 deg.
12' E.: They bear about S.E. 1/4 S. and N.W. 1/4 N. of each other,
distant eight leagues, and between them are the others; the number of
the whole is eight. They lie very near the Celebes side of the straight,
and being unable either to weather them, or get to the westward of them,
we were obliged to go between them and the island. We had here
tempestuous weather and contrary winds, with sudden and impetuous gusts,
which, as we had not a number of hands sufficient to bend the sails,
often endangered our masts and yards, and did great damage to our sails
and rigging, especially at this time, as we were obliged to carry all
the sail we could to prevent our falling into a deep bight, on the
Celebes shore. The ravages of the scurvy were now universal, there not
being one individual among us that was free, and the winds and currents
being so hard against us, that we could neither get westing nor southing
to reach any place of refreshment; the mind participated in the
sufferings of the body, and a universal despondency was reflected from
one countenance to another, especially among those who were not able to
come upon the deck. In this deplorable situation we continued till the
10th, and it is not perhaps very easy for the most fertile imagination
to conceive by what our danger and distress could possibly be increased;
yet debilitated, sick, and dying as we were, in sight of land that we
could not reach, and exposed to tempests which we could not resist, we
had the additional misfortune to be attacked by a pirate: That this
unexpected mischief might lose none of its force, it happened at
midnight, when the darkness that might almost be felt, could not fail to
co-operate with whatever tended to produce confusion and terror. This
sudden attack, however, rather roused than depressed us, and though our
enemy attempted to board us, before we could have the least apprehension
that an enemy was near, we defeated his purpose: He then plied us with
what we supposed to be swivel guns, and small arms, very briskly; but
though he had the start of us, we soon returned his salute with such
effect, that shortly after he sunk, and all the unhappy, wretches on
board perished. It was a small vessel, but of what country, or how
manned, it was impossible for us to know. The lieutenant, and one of the
men, were wounded, though not dangerously; part of our running rigging
was cut, and we received some other slight damage. We knew this pirate
to be a vessel which we had seen in the dusk of the evening, and we
afterwards learned that she belonged to a freebooter, who had more than
thirty such vessels under his command. The smallness of our vessel
encouraged the attack, and her strength being so much more than in
proportion to her size, supposing her a merchantman, rendered it fatal.

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