A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 12 by Robert Kerr

R >> Robert Kerr >> A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 12

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[Footnote 56: There is another island of this name, among these that
were discovered by Captain Wallis.]

On the 12th, we fell in with two more small islands, which were covered
with green trees, but appeared to be uninhabited. We were close in with
the southermost, which proved to be a slip of land in the form of a
half-moon, low, flat, and sandy: From the south end of it a reef runs
out to the distance of about half a mile, on which the sea breaks with
great fury. We found no anchorage, but the boat landed. It had a
pleasant appearance, but afforded neither vegetables nor water; there
were however many birds upon it, so tame that they suffered themselves
to be taken by hand. The other island very much resembles this, and is
distant from it about five or six leagues: They lie W.N.W. and E.S.E. of
each other. One of them is in latitude 20 deg. 38'S., longitude 146 deg.W.; the
other 20 deg.34'S., longitude 146 deg. 15' W., and we called them the Duke of
Gloucester's Islands; the variation here is five degrees east. These
islands are probably the land seen by Quiros, as the situation is nearly
the same; but if not, the land he saw could not be more considerable:
Whatever it was, he went to the southward of it, and the long billows we
had here, convinced us that there was no land near us in that direction.
The wind here being to the eastward, I hauled to the southward again,
and the next day, Monday the 13th, in the evening, as we were steering
W.S.W. we observed that we lost the long southerly billows, and that we
got them again at seven o'clock the next day. When we lost them we were
in latitude 21 deg.7'S., longitude 147 deg.4' W.; and when we got them again we
were in latitude 21 deg. 43 S., longitude 149 deg.48'W; so that I imagine there
was some land to the southward, not far distant.[57]

[Footnote 57: The Islands called Oheteroa, Toobouai, Vabouai, Vavitoo,
lie a little to the south of this part of Carteret's track.--E.]

From this time to the 16th, the winds were variable from N.E. round by
the N. the N.W. and S.W. and blew very hard, with violent gusts, one of
which was very near being fatal to us, with thick weather and hard rain.
We were then in latitude 22 deg. S., and 70 deg.30'W. of our departure, where we
found the variation 6 deg.30'E. and the tempestuous gales were succeeded by
a dead calm. After some time, however, the wind sprung up again at west,
and at length settled in the W.S.W. which soon drove us again to the
northward, so that on the 20th we were in latitude 19 deg. S., longitude
75 deg.30'W. of our departure: The variation was here 6 deg.E.

On the 22d, we were got into latitude 18 deg.S., longitude 161 deg.W., which was
about one thousand eight hundred leagues to the westward of the
continent of America, and in all this track we had no indication of a
continent. The men now began to be very sickly, the scurvy having made
great progress among them, and as I found that all my endeavours to keep
in a high southern latitude at this time were ineffectual, and that the
badness of the weather, the variableness of the winds, and above all,
the defects of the ship, rendered our progress slow, I thought it
absolutely necessary to fix upon that course which was most likely to
preserve the vessel and the crew; instead therefore of attempting to
return back by the south-east, in which, considering our condition, and
the advanced season of the year, it was scarcely possible that we should
succeed, I bore away to the northward, that I might get into the
trade-wind, keeping still in such a track, as if the charts were to be
trusted, was most likely to bring me to some island, where the
refreshments of which we stood so much in need might be procured
intending then, if the ship could be put in a proper condition, to have
pursued the voyage to the southward, when the fit season should return,
to have attempted farther discoveries in this track; and, if I should
discover a continent, and procure a sufficient supply of provisions
there, to keep along the coast to the southward till the sun had crossed
the equinoctial, and then, getting into a high southern latitude, either
have gone west about to the Cape of Good Hope, or returned to the
eastward, and having touched at Falkland's Islands, if necessary, made
the best of my way from thence back to Europe.

When I got into latitude 16 deg. S. and not before, I found the true
trade-wind; and as we proceeded to the north-west, and the northward, we
found the variation increase very fast; for when we had advanced to
latitude 18 deg. 15' S. and were in longitude 80 deg. 1/4 W. of our departure,
it was 7 deg. 30' E. We had bad weather, with hard gales, and a great sea
from the eastward till the 25th, when, being in latitude 12 deg. 15' S., we
saw many birds flying in flocks, and supposed ourselves to be near some
land, particularly several islands that are laid down in the charts, and
one which was seen by Commodore Byron in 1765, and called the Island of
Danger; none of these islands, however, could we see. At this time it
blew so hard, that, although we went before the wind, we were obliged to
reef our top-sails, and the weather was still very thick and rainy. The
next morning, being in latitude 10 deg. S., longitude 167 deg. W., we kept
nearly in the same parallel, in hopes to have fallen in with some of the
islands called Solomon's Islands, this being the latitude in which the
southermost of them is laid down. We had here the trade-wind strong,
with violent squalls and much rain, and continuing our course till
Monday the 3d of August, we were then in latitude 10 deg. 18' S. longitude,
by account, 177 deg. 1/2 E.; our distance west from the continent of America
about twenty-one hundred leagues, and we were five degrees to the
westward of the situation of those islands in the charts. It was not our
good fortune, however, to fall in with any land; probably we might pass
near some, which the thick weather prevented our seeing; for in this run
great numbers of sea birds were often about the ship: However, as
Commodore Byron in his last voyage sailed over the northern limits of
that part of the ocean in which the Islands of Solomon are said to lie,
and as I sailed over the southern limits without seeing them, there is
great reason to conclude, that, if there are any such islands, their
situation in all our charts is erroneously laid down.[58]

[Footnote 58: See what is said on this subject in the account of Byron's
voyage. It will be resumed when we come to speak of some of Cook's
discoveries--E.]

From the latitude 14 deg. S., longitude 163 deg. 46' W., we had a strong gale
from the S.E. which made a great sea after us, and from that time I did
not observe the long billows from the southward till we got into
latitude 10 deg. 18' S., longitude 177 deg. 30' E., and then it returned from
the S.W. and S.S.W., and we found a current setting to the southward,
although a current in the contrary direction had attended us almost all
the way from the Streight of Magellan; I conjectured therefore that here
the passage opened between New Zealand and New Holland. The variation
here was 11 deg. 14' E. On the 5th, being in latitude 10 deg. 1/2 S., longitude
175 deg. 44' E., the variation was 11 deg. 15' E.; and on the 8th, in latitude
11 deg. S., longitude 171 deg. 14' E. it was 14 deg. 1/2 E.

About this time we found our stock of log-lines nearly expended, though
we had already converted all our fishing lines to the same use. I was
some time in great perplexity how to supply this defect, but, upon a
very diligent enquiry, found that we had, by chance, a few fathom of
thick untarred rope. This, which in our situation was an inestimable
treasure, I ordered to be untwisted; but as the yarns were found to be
too thick for our purpose, it became necessary to pick them into oakham;
and when this was done, the most difficult part of the work remained;
for this oakham could not be spun into yarn, till, by combing, it was
brought into hemp, its original state. This was not seamen's work, and
if it had, we should have been at a loss how to perform it for want of
combs; one difficulty therefore arose upon another, and it was necessary
to make combs, before we could try our skill in making hemp. Upon this
trying occasion we were again sensible of the danger to which we were
exposed by the want of a forge: Necessity, however, the fruitful mother
of invention, suggested an expedient. The armourer was set to work to
file nails down to a smooth point, with which we produced a tolerable
succedaneum for a comb; and one of the quarter-masters was found
sufficiently skilled in the use of this instrument to render the oakham
so smooth and even, that we contrived to spin it into yarn, as fine as
our coarse implements would admit; and thus we made tolerable log-lines,
although we found it much more difficult than to make cordage of our old
cables, after they had been converted into junk, which was an expedient
that we had been obliged to practise long before. We had also long
before used all our sewing sail-twine, and if, knowing that the quantity
with which I had been supplied was altogether inadequate to the wants of
such a voyage, I had not taken the whole quantity that had been put on
board to repair the seine into my own custody, this deficiency might
have been fatal to us all.

SECTION IV.

_An Account of the Discovery of Queen Charlotte's Islands, with a
Description of them and their Inhabitants, and of what happened at
Egmont Island._

The scurvy still continued to make great progress among us, and those
hands that were not rendered useless by disease, were worn down by
excessive labour; our vessel, which at best was a dull sailer, had been
long in so bad a condition that she would not work; and on the 10th, to
render our condition still more distressful and alarming, she sprung a
leak in the bows, which being under water, it was impossible to get at
while we were at sea. Such was our situation, when, on the 12th, at
break of day, we discovered land: The sudden transport of hope and joy
which this inspired, can perhaps be equalled only by that which a
criminal feels who bears the cry of a reprieve at the place of
execution. The land proved to be a cluster of islands, of which I
counted seven, and believe there were many more. We kept on for two of
them, which were right a-head when land was first discovered, and seemed
to lie close together; in the evening we anchored on the north-east side
of one of them, which was the largest and the highest of the two, in
about thirty fathom, with a good bottom, and at the distance of about
three cables' length from the shore. We soon after saw two of the
natives, who were black, with woolly heads, and stark naked; I
immediately sent the master out with the boat to fix upon a
watering-place, and speak to them, but they disappeared before she could
reach the shore. The boat soon after returned with an account that there
was a fine run of fresh water a-breast of the ship and close to the
beach, but that the whole country in that part being an almost
impenetrable forest quite to the water's edge, the watering would be
very difficult, and even dangerous, if the natives should come down to
prevent it: That there were no esculent vegetables, for the refreshment
of the sick, nor any habitations as far as the country had been
examined, which was wild, forlorn, and mountainous.

Having considered this account, and finding that a swell, which came
round the eastern part of the bay, would render watering troublesome and
inconvenient, exclusive of the danger that might be apprehended from the
natives, if they should attack us from ambushes in the wood, I
determined to try whether a better situation could not be found.

The next morning, therefore, as soon as it was light, I dispatched the
master, with fifteen men in the cutter, well armed and provided, to
examine the coast to the westward, our present situation being on the
lee of the island, for a place where we might more conveniently be
supplied with wood and water, and at the same time procure some
refreshments for the sick, and lay the ship by the stern to examine and
stop the leak. I gave him some beads, ribbons, and other trifles, which
by chance I happened to have on board, to conciliate the good-will of
the natives, if he should happen to meet with any of them; but at the
same time enjoined him to run no risk, and gave him particular orders
immediately to return to the ship, if any number of canoes should
approach him which might bring on hostilities; and if he should meet the
Indians in small parties, either at sea or upon shore, to treat them
with all possible kindness, so as to establish a friendly intercourse
with them; charging him on no account to leave the boat himself, nor to
suffer more than two men to go on shore at a time, while the rest stood
ready for their defence; recommending to him, in the strongest terms; an
application to his duty, without regarding any other object, as the
finding a proper place for the ship was of the utmost importance to us
all; and conjuring him to return as soon as this service should be
performed, with all possible speed.

Soon after I had dispatched the cutter on this expedition, I sent the
long-boat with ten men on board well armed to the shore, who before
eight o'clock brought off a ton of water. About nine, I sent her off
again, but soon after seeing some of the natives advancing along the
shore towards the place where the men landed, I made the signal for them
to return, not knowing to what number they would be exposed, and having
no boat to send off with assistance if they should be attacked.

Our men had not long returned on board, when we saw three of the natives
sit down under the trees a-breast of the ship. As they continued there
gazing at us till the afternoon, as soon as the cutter came in sight,
not caring that both the boats should be absent at the same time, I sent
my lieutenant in the long-boat, with a few beads, ribbons, and trinkets,
to endeavour to establish some kind of intercourse with them, and by
their means, with the rest of the inhabitants; these men, however,
before the boat could reach the shore, quitted their station, and
proceeded along the beach. As the trees would soon prevent their being
seen by our people, who were making towards the land, we kept our eyes
fixed upon them from the ship, and very soon perceived that they were
met by three others. After some conversation, the first three went on,
and, those who met them proceeded towards the boat with a hasty pace.
Upon this, I made the signal to the lieutenant to be upon his guard, and
as soon as he saw the Indians, observing that there were no more than
three, he backed the boat into the shore, and making signs of
friendship, held up to them the beads and ribbons which I had given him
as presents, our people at the same time carefully concealing their
arms. The Indians, however, taking no notice of the beads and ribbons,
resolutely advanced within bow-shot, and then suddenly discharged their
arrows, which happily went over the boat without doing any mischief;
they did not prepare for a second discharge, but instantly ran away into
the woods, and our people discharged some musquets after them, but none
of them were wounded by the shot. Soon after this happened, the cutter
came under the ship's side, and the first person that I particularly
noticed was the master, with three arrows sticking in his body. No other
evidence was necessary to convict him of having acted contrary to my
orders, which appeared indeed more fully from his own account of the
matter, which it is reasonable to suppose was as favourable to himself
as he could make it. He said, that having seen some Indian houses with
only five or six of the inhabitants, at a place about fourteen or
fifteen miles to the westward of the ship's station, where he had
sounded some bays, he came to a grappling, and veered the boat to the
beach, where he landed with four men, armed with musquets and pistols;
that the Indians at first were afraid of him, and retired, but that soon
after they came down to him, and he gave them some beads and other
trifles, with which they seemed to be much pleased: That he then made
signs to them for some cocoa-nuts, which they brought him, and with
great appearance of friendship and hospitality, gave him a broiled fish
and some boiled yams: That he then proceeded with his party to the
houses, which, he said, were not more than fifteen or twenty yards from
the water-side, and soon after saw a great number of canoes coming round
the western point of the bay, and many Indians among the trees: That
being alarmed at these appearances, he hastily left the house where
they had been received, and with the men, made the best of his way
towards the boat; but that, before he could get on board, the Indians
attacked as well those that were with him as those that were in the
boat, both from the canoes and the shore. Their number, he said, was
between three and four hundred: Their weapons were bows and arrows, the
bows were six feet five inches long, and the arrows four feet four,
which they discharged in platoons, as regularly as the best disciplined
troops in Europe: That it being necessary to defend himself and his
people when they were thus attacked, they fired among the Indians to
favour their getting into their boat, and did great execution, killing
many and wounding more: That they were not however discouraged, but
continued to press forward, still discharging their arrows by platoons
in almost one continued flight: That the grappling being foul,
occasioned a delay in hauling off the boat, during which time he, and
half of the boat's crew, were desperately wounded: That at last they cut
the rope, and ran off under their foresail, still keeping up their fire
with blunderbusses, each loaded with eight or ten pistol balls, which
the Indians returned with their arrows, those on shore wading after them
breast-high into the sea: When they had got clear of these, the canoes
pursued them with great fortitude and vigour, till one of them was sunk,
and the numbers on board the rest greatly reduced by the fire, and then
they returned to the shore.

Such was the story of the master, who, with three of my best seamen,
died some time afterwards of the wounds they had received; but culpable
as he appears to have been by his own account, he appears to have been
still more so by the testimony of those who survived him. They said,
that the Indians behaved with the greatest confidence and friendship
till he gave them just cause of offence, by ordering the people that
were with him, who had been regaled in one of their houses, to cut down
a cocoa-nut tree; and insisting upon the execution of his order,
notwithstanding the displeasure which the Indians strongly expressed
upon the occasion: As soon as the tree fell, all of them except one, who
seemed to be a person of authority, went away; and in a short time a
great number of them were observed to draw together into a body among
the trees, by a midshipman who was one of the party that were on shore,
and who immediately acquainted the master with what he had seen, and
told him, that from the behaviour of the people he imagined an attack
was intended: That the master made light of the intelligence, and
instead of repairing immediately to the boat, as he was urged to do,
fired one of his pistols at a mark: That the Indian who had till that
time continued with them left them abruptly, and joined the body in the
wood: That the master, even after this, by an infatuation that is
altogether unaccountable, continued to trifle away his time on shore,
and did not attempt to recover the boat till the attack was begun.

As the expedition to find a better place for the ship had issued thus
unhappily, I determined to try what could be done where we lay; the next
day, therefore, the ship was brought down by the stern, as far as we
could effect it, and the carpenter, the only one of the crew who was in
tolerable health, caulked the bows, as far down as he could come at the
bottom; and though he did not quite stop the leak, he very much reduced
it. In the afternoon a fresh gale set right into the bay, which made the
ship ride with her stern very near the shore, and we observed a great
number of the natives sculking among the trees upon the beach, who
probably expected that the wind would have forced the ship on shore.

The next morning, the weather being fine, we veered the ship close in
shore, with a spring upon our cable, so that we brought our broadside to
bear upon the watering-place, for the protection of the boats that were
to be employed there. As there was reason to suppose that the natives
whom we had seen among the trees the night before, were not now far
distant, I fired a couple of shot into the wood, before I sent the
waterers ashore; I also sent the lieutenant in the cutter, well manned
and armed, with the boat that carried them, and ordered him and his
people to keep on board, and lie close to the beach, to cover the
watering-boat while she was loading, and to keep discharging muskets
into the wood on each side of the party that were filling the water.
These orders were well executed, the beach was steep, so that the boats
could lie close to the people that were at work, and the lieutenant from
the cutter fired three or four vollies of small arms into the woods
before any of the men went on shore, and none of the natives appearing,
the waterers landed and went to work. But notwithstanding all these
precautions, before they had been on shore a quarter of an hour, a
flight of arrows was discharged among them, one of which dangerously
wounded a man that was filling water in the breast, and another stuck
into a bareca on which Mr Pitcairn was sitting. The people on board the
cutter immediately fired several vollies of small arms into that part of
the wood from which the arrows came, and I recalled the boats that I
might more effectually drive the Indians from their ambuscades with
grape-shot from the ship's guns. When the boats and people were on
board, we began to fire, and soon after saw about two hundred men rush
out of the woods, and run along the beach with the utmost precipitation.
We judged the coast to be now effectually cleared, but in a little time
we perceived that a great number had got together on the westermost
point of the bay, where they probably thought themselves beyond our
reach: To convince them therefore of the contrary, I ordered a gun to be
fired at them with round shot; the ball just grazing the water rose
again, and fell in the middle of them, upon which they dispersed with
great hurry and confusion, and we saw no more of them. After this we
watered without any farther molestation, but all the while our boats
were on shore, we had the precaution to keep firing the ship's guns into
the wood on both sides of them, and the cutter, which lay close to the
beach, as she did before, kept up a constant fire of small arms in
platoons, at the same time. As we saw none of the natives daring all
this firing, we should have thought that none of them had ventured back
into the wood, if our people had not reported that they heard groans
from several parts of it, like those of dying men.

Hitherto, though I had been long ill of an inflammatory and bilious
disorder, I had been able to keep the deck; but this evening the
symptoms became so much more threatening that I could keep up no longer,
and I was for some time afterwards confined to my bed. The master was
dying of the wounds he received in his quarrel with the Indians, the
lieutenant also was very ill, the gunner and thirty of my men incapable
of duty, among whom were seven of the most vigorous and healthy, that
had been wounded with the master, and three of them mortally, and there
was no hope of obtaining such refreshments as we most needed in this
place. These were discouraging circumstances, and not only put an end to
my hopes of prosecuting the voyage farther to southward, but greatly
dispirited the people; except myself, the master, and the lieutenant,
there was nobody on board capable of navigating the ship home; the
master was known to be a dying man, and the recovery of myself and the
lieutenant was very doubtful. I would however have made a further effort
to obtain refreshments here, if I had been furnished with any toys, iron
tools, or cutlery-ware, which might have enabled me to recover the
goodwill of the natives, and establish a traffic with them for such
necessaries as they could have furnished us with; but I had no such
articles, and but very few others fit for an Indian trade; and not being
in a condition to risk the loss of any more of the few men who were
capable of doing duty, I weighed anchor at day-break on Monday the 17th,
and stood along the shore for that part of the island to which I had
sent the cutter. To the island I had given the name of _Egmont Island_,
in honour of the Earl: It certainly is the same to which the Spaniards
have given the name of Santa Cruz, as appears by the accounts which
their writers have given of it, and I called the place in which we had
lain, _Swallow Bay_. From the eastermost point of this bay, which I
called _Swallow Point_, to the north-east point of the island, which I
called _Cape Byron_, is about seven miles east, and from the westermost
point of the bay, which I called _Hanway's Point_, to Cape Byron, is
about ten or eleven miles. Between Swallow Point and Hanway's Point, in
the bottom of the bay, there is a third point, which does not run out so
far; and a little to the westward of this point is the best
anchoring-place, but it is necessary to give it birth, as the ground
near it is shoaly. When we were at anchor in this bay, Swallow Point
bore E. by N. and Hanway's Point W.N.W. From this Point there runs a
reef, on which the sea breaks very high: The outer part of this reef
bore N.W. by W. and an island which has the appearance of a volcano, was
just over the breakers. Soon after we had passed Hanway's Point, we saw
a small village, which stands upon the beach, and is surrounded by
cocoa-nut trees. It is situated in a bay between Hanway's Point and
another, to which I gave the name of _Howe's Point_. The distance from
Hanway's Point to Howe's Point is between four and five miles. Close to
the shore there is about thirty fathom of water; but in crossing the
bay, at the distance of about two miles, we had no bottom. Having passed
Howe's Point, we opened another bay or harbour, which had the appearance
of a deep lagoon, and which we called _Carlisle Harbour_. Over-against
the entrance of Carlisle Harbour, and north of the coast, we found a
small island, which we called _Portland's Island_. On the west side of
this island there is a reef of rocks that runs to the main; the passage
into the harbour, therefore, is on the east side of it, and runs in and
out E.N.E. and W.S.W. it is about two cables' length wide, and has about
eight fathom water. I believe the harbour within it to be good; but a
ship would be obliged to warp both in and out, and would after all be in
danger of an attack by the natives, who are bold even to temerity, and
have a perseverance which is not common among undisciplined savages.
When the ship was a mile from the shore, we had no ground with fifty
fathom. About four or five miles west from Portland's Island, is a fine,
small, round harbour, just big enough to receive three ships, which we
called _Byron's Harbour_. When we were abreast of the entrance of it, it
bore from us S. by E. 1/2 E. and the Volcano Island bore N.W. 1/2 W. Our
boat entered it, and found two runs of water, one fresh and the other
salt; by the run of salt water we judged that it had a communication
with Carlisle Harbour. When we had proceeded about three leagues from
the harbour, we opened the bay where the cutter had been attacked by the
Indians, to which, for that reason, we gave the name of _Bloody Bay_. In
this bay is a small rivulet of fresh water, and here we saw many houses
regularly built: Close to the water-side stood one much longer than any
of the rest, which seemed to be a kind of common-hall, or council-house,
and was neatly built and thatched. This was the building in which our
people had been received who were on shore here with the master; and
they told me that both the sides and floor were lined with a kind of
fine matting, and a great number of arrows, made up into bundles, were
hung up in it ready for use. They told me also, that at this place there
were many gardens, or plantations, which are enclosed by a fence of
stone, and planted with cocoa-nut trees, bananas, plantains, yams, and
other vegetables. The cocoa-nut trees we saw from the ship in great
numbers, among the houses of the village. About three miles to the
westward of this town we saw another of considerable extent; in the
front of which, next to the water-side, there was a breast-work of
stone, about four feet six inches high, not in a straight line, but in
angles, like a fortification; and there is great reason to suppose,
from the weapons of these people, and their military courage, which
must in great measure be the effect of habit, that they have frequent
wars among themselves. As we proceeded westward from this place, we
found, at the distance of two or three miles, a small bight, forming a
kind of bay, in which a river empties itself. Upon taking a view of this
river from the mast-head, it appeared to run very far into the country,
and at the entrance, at least, to be navigable for small vessels. This
river we called _Granville's River_, and to the westward of it is a
point, to which we gave the name of _Ferrer's Point_. From this point
the land forms a large bay, and near it is a town of great extent, which
seemed to swarm like a bee-hive: An incredible multitude came out of it
as the ship passed by, holding something in their hands which looked
like a wisp of green grass, with which they seemed to stroke each other,
at the same time dancing, or running in a ring. About seven miles to the
westward of Point Ferrers, is another that was called _Carteret Point_,
from which a reef of rocks, that appears above water, runs out to the
distance of about a cable's length. Upon this point we saw a large
canoe, with an awning or shade built over it; and a little to the
westward, another large town, fronted, and probably surrounded, with a
breastwork of stone, like the last. Here also the people thronged to the
beach as the ship was passing, and performed the same kind of circular
dance. After a little time they launched several canoes, and made
towards us; upon which we lay-to, that they might have time to come up,
and we conceived great hopes that we should prevail upon them to come on
board; but when they came near enough to have a more distinct view of
us, they lay upon their paddles and gazed at us, but seemed to have no
design of advancing farther; and therefore we made sail and left them
behind us. About half a mile from Carteret Point, we had sixty fathom,
with a bottom of sand and coral. From this point the land trends away
W.S.W. and S.W. forming a deep lagoon, at the mouth of which lies an
island, that with the main forms two entrances into it. The island we
called _Trevanion's Island_. This entrance is about two miles wide, and
the lagoon, if there is anchorage in it, is certainly a fine harbour for
shipping. After crossing the first entrance, and coming off the
north-west part of Trevanion's Island, which we called _Cape Trevanion_,
we saw a great rippling, and therefore sent the boat off to sound. We
had, however, no bottom with fifty fathom; the rippling being caused
only by the meeting of the tides. Having hauled round this cape, we
found the land trend to the southward; and we continued to stand along
the shore till we opened the western passage into the lagoon between
Trevanion's Island and the main. In this place, both the main and the
island appeared to be one continued town, and the inhabitants were
innumerable. We sent a boat to examine this entrance or passage, and
found the bottom to be coral and rock, with very irregular soundings
over it. As soon as the natives saw the boat leave the ship, they sent
off several armed canoes to attack her. The first that came within
bow-shot discharged her arrows at the people on board, who, being ready,
fired a volley, by which one of the Indians was killed, and another
wounded; at the same time we fired a great gun from the ship, loaded
with grape-shot, among them; upon which they all pulled back to the
shore with great precipitation, except the canoe which began the attack;
and that being secured by the boat's crew, with the wounded man in her,
was brought to the ship. I immediately ordered the Indian to be taken on
board, and the surgeon to examine his wounds. It appeared that one shot
had gone through his head, and that his arm was broken by another: The
surgeon was of opinion that the wound in his head was mortal; I
therefore ordered him to be put again into his canoe, and,
notwithstanding his condition, he paddled away towards the shore. He was
a young man, with a woolly head, like that of the negroes, and a small
beard, but he was well-featured, and not so black as the natives of
Guinea. He was of the common stature, and, like all the rest of the
people whom we had seen upon this island, quite naked. His canoe was
very small, and of rude workmanship, being nothing more than part of the
trunk of a tree made hollow; it had, however, an outrigger, but none of
them had sails.