A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 12 by Robert Kerr

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In this situation we were obliged to continue a week, during which time,
I put both my own ship, and the Swallow, upon two-thirds allowance,
except brandy; but continued the breakfast as long as greens and water
were plenty.

On Sunday the 15th, about noon, we saw the Swallow under sail, and it
being calm, we sent our launch to assist her. In the evening the launch
returned, having towed her into a very good harbour on the south shore,
opposite to where we lay. The account that we received of this harbour,
determined us to get into it as soon as possible; the next morning
therefore, at eight o'clock, we sailed from Goodluck Bay, and thought
ourselves happy to get safe out of it. When we got a-breast of the
harbour where the Swallow lay, we fired several guns, as signals for her
boats to assist us in getting in; and in a short time the master came
on board us, and piloted us to a very commodious station, where we
anchored in twenty-eight fathom, with a muddy bottom. This harbour,
which is sheltered from all winds, and excellent in every respect, we
called _Swallow Harbour_. There are two channels into it, which are both
narrow, but not dangerous, as the rocks are easily discovered by the
weeds that grow upon them.

At nine o'clock the next morning, the wind coming easterly, we weighed,
and sailed from Swallow Harbour. At noon we took the Swallow in tow, but
at five, there being little wind, we cast off the tow. At eight in the
evening, the boats which had been sent out to look for anchorage,
returned with an account that they could find none: At nine we had fresh
gales, and at midnight Cape Upright bore S.S.W.1/2 W.

At seven, the next morning, we took the Swallow again in tow, but were
again obliged to cast her off and tack, as the weather became very
thick, with a great swell, and we saw land close under our lee. As no
place for anchorage could be found, Captain Carteret advised me to bear
away for Upright Bay, to which I consented; and as he was acquainted
with the place, he went a-head: The boats were ordered to go between him
and the shore, and we followed. At eleven o'clock, there being little
wind, we opened a large lagoon, and a current setting strongly into it,
the Swallow was driven among the breakers close upon the lee-shore: To
aggravate the misfortune, the weather was very hazy, there was no
anchorage, and the surf ran very high. In this dreadful situation she
made signals of distress, and we immediately sent our launch, and other
boats, to her assistance: The boats took her in tow, but their utmost
efforts to save her would have been ineffectual, if a breeze had not
suddenly came down from a mountain and wafted her off.

As a great swell came on about noon, we hauled over to the north shore.
We soon found ourselves surrounded with islands, but the fog was so
thick, that we knew not where we were, nor which way to steer. Among
these islands the boats were sent to cast the lead, but no anchorage was
to be found; we then conjectured that we were in the Bay of Islands, and
that we had no chance to escape shipwreck, but by hauling directly out:
This, however, was no easy task, for I was obliged to tack almost
continually, to weather some island or rock. At four o'clock in the
afternoon, it happily cleaned up for a minute, just to shew us Cape
Upright, for which we directly steered, and at half an hour after five
anchored, with the Swallow, in the bay. When we dropped the anchor, we
were in twenty-four fathom, and after we had veered away a whole cable,
in forty-six, with a muddy bottom. In this situation, a high bluff on
the north shore bore N.W. 1/2 N. distant five leagues, and a small
island within us S. by E. 1/2 E. Soon after we had anchored, the Swallow
drove to leeward, notwithstanding she had two anchors a-head, but was at
last brought up, in seventy fathom, about a cable's length a-stern of
us. At four o'clock in the morning I sent the boats, with a considerable
number of men, and some hawsers and anchors, on board her, to weigh her
anchors, and warp her up to windward. When her best-bower anchor was
weighed, it was found entangled with the small one; I therefore found it
necessary to send the stream-cable on board, and the ship was hung up by
it. To clear her anchors, and warp her into a proper birth, cost us the
whole day, and was not at last effected without the utmost difficulty
and labour.

On the 18th we had fresh breezes, and sent the boats to sound cross the
streight. Within half-a-mile of the ship, they had forty, forty-five,
fifty, seventy, one hundred fathom, and then had no ground, till within
a cable's length of the lee-shore, where they had ninety fathom. We now
moored the ship in seventy-eight fathom, with the stream-anchor.

The next morning, while our people were employed in getting wood and
water, and gathering celery and mussels, two canoes, full of Indians,
came alongside of the ship. They had much the same appearance as the
poor wretches whom we had seen before in Elizabeth's Bay. They had on
board some seal's flesh, blubber, and penguins, all which they eat raw.
Some of our people, who were fishing with a hook and line, gave one of
them a fish, somewhat bigger than a herring, alive, just as it came out
of the water. The Indian took it hastily, as a dog would take a bone,
and instantly killed it, by giving it a bite near the gills: He then
proceeded to eat it, beginning with the head, and going on to the tail,
without rejecting either the bones, fins, scales, or entrails. They eat
every thing that was given them, indifferently, whether salt or fresh,
dressed or raw, but would drink nothing but water. They shivered with
cold, yet had nothing to cover them but a seal-skin, thrown loosely over
their shoulders, which did not reach to their middle; and we observed,
that when they were rowing, they threw even this by, and sat stark
naked. They had with them some javelins, rudely pointed with bone, with
which they used to strike seals, fish, and penguins, and we observed
that one of them had a piece of iron, about the size of a common
chissel, which was fastened to a piece of wood, and seemed to be
intended rather for a tool than a weapon. They had all sore eyes, which
we imputed to their sitting over the smoke of their fires, and they
smelt more offensively than a fox, which perhaps was in part owing to
their diet, and in part to their nastiness. Their canoes were about
fifteen feet long, three broad, and nearly three deep: They were made of
the bark of trees, sewn together, either with the sinews of some beast,
or thongs cut out of a hide. Some kind of rush was laid into the seams,
and the outside was smeared with a resin or gum, which prevented the
water from soaking into the bark. Fifteen slender branches, bent into an
arch, were sewed transversely to the bottom and sides, and some straight
pieces were placed across the top, from gunwale to gunwale, and securely
lashed at each end: Upon the whole, however, it was poorly made, nor had
these people any thing among them in which there was the least
appearance of ingenuity. I gave them a hatchet or two, with some beads,
and a few other toys, with which they went away to the southward, and we
saw no more of them.

While we lay here, we sent out the boats, as usual, in search of
anchoring-places, and having been ten leagues to the westward, they
found but two: One was to the westward of Cape Upright, in the Bay of
Islands, but was very difficult to enter and get out of; the other was
called Dolphin Bay, at ten leagues distance, which was a good harbour,
with even ground in all parts. They saw several small coves, which were
all dangerous, as in them it would be necessary to let go the anchor
within half-a-cable's length of the lee-shore, and steady the ship with
hawsers fastened to the rocks. The people belonging to one of the boats
spent a night upon an island, upon which, while they were there, six
canoes landed about thirty Indians. The Indians ran immediately to the
boat, and were carrying away every thing they found in her: Our people
discovered what they were doing just time enough to prevent them. As
soon as they found themselves opposed they went to their canoes, and
armed themselves with long poles, and javelins pointed with the bones of
fish. They did not begin an attack, but stood in a threatening manner:
Our people, who were two-and-twenty in number, acted only on the
defensive, and by parting with a few trifles to them, they became
friends, and behaved peaceably the rest of the time they staid.

For many days we had hail, lightning, rain, and hard gales, with a heavy
sea, so that we thought it impossible for the ship to hold, though she
had two anchors a-head, and two cables an-end. The men, however, were
sent frequently on shore for exercise, which contributed greatly to
their health, and procured an almost constant supply of mussels and
greens. Among other damages that we had sustained, our fire-place was
broken to pieces; we therefore found it necessary to set up the forge,
and employ the armourers to make a new back; we also made lime of burnt
shells, and once more put it into a useful condition.

On Monday the 30th we had the first interval of moderate weather, and we
improved it in drying the sails, which, though much mildewed, we had not
before been able to loose, for fear of setting the ship adrift: We also
aired the spare sails, which we found much injured by the rats, and
employed the sail-makers to mend them. Captain Carteret having
represented that his fire-place, as well as ours, had been broken to
pieces, our armourers made him also a new back, and set it up with lime
that we made upon the spot, in the same manner as had been done on board
our own ship. This day we saw several canoes, full of Indians, put to
shore on the east side of the bay, and the next morning several of them
came on board, and proved to be the same that our people, who were out
in the boat, had met with on shore. They behaved very peaceably, and we
dismissed them with a few toys, as usual.

The day following, several other Indians came off to the ship, and
brought with them some of the birds called Race-Horses. Our people
purchased the birds for a few trifles, and I made them a present of
several hatchets and knives.

On Thursday, the 2d of April, the master of the Swallow, who had been
sent out to seek for anchoring-places, returned, and reported that he
had found three on the north shore, which were very good; one about four
miles to the eastward, of Cape Providence, another under the east-side
of Cape Tamar, and the third about four miles to the eastward of it; but
he said that he found no place to anchor under Cape Providence, the
ground being rocky.

This day two canoes came on board, with four men and three young
children in each. The men were somewhat more decently dressed than those
that we had seen before, but the children were stark naked. They were
somewhat fairer than the men, who seemed to pay a very tender attention
to them, especially in lifting them in and out of the canoes. To these
young visitors I gave necklaces and bracelets, with which they seemed
mightily pleased. It happened that while some of these people were on
board, and the rest waiting in their canoes by the ship's side, the boat
was sent on shore for wood and water. The Indians who were in the
canoes, kept their eyes fixed upon the boat while she was manning, and
the moment she put off from the ship, they called out with great
vociferation to those that were on board, who seemed to be much alarmed,
and hastily handing down the children, leaped into their canoes, without
uttering a word. None of us could guess at the cause of this sudden
emotion, but we saw the men in the canoes pull after the boat with all
their might, hallooing and shouting with great appearance of
perturbation and distress. The boat out-rowed them, and when she came
near the shore, the people on board discovered some women gathering
mussels among the rocks. This at once explained the mystery; the poor
Indians were afraid that the strangers, either by force or favour,
should violate the prerogative of a husband, of which they seemed to be
more jealous than the natives of some other countries, who in their
appearance are less savage and sordid. Our people, to make them easy,
immediately lay upon their oars, and suffered the canoes to pass them.
The Indians, however, still continued to call out to their women, till
they took the alarm and ran out of sight, and as soon as they got to
land, drew their canoes upon the beach, and followed them with the
utmost expedition.

We continued daily to gather mussels till the 5th, when several of the
people being seized with fluxes, the surgeon desired that no more
mussels might be brought into the ship.

The weather being still tempestuous and unsettled, we remained at anchor
till ten o'clock in the morning of Friday, the 10th, and then, in
company with the Swallow, we made sail. At noon, Cape Providence bore
N.N.W. distant four or five miles; at four in the afternoon Cape Tamar
bore N.W. by W. 1/2 W. distant three leagues, Cape Upright E.S.E. 1/2
S., distant three leagues, and Cape Pillar W. distant ten leagues. We
steered about W. 1/2 N. all night, and at six o'clock in the morning,
had run eight and thirty miles by the log. At this time Cape Pillar bore
S.W. distant half a mile, and the Swallow was about three miles a-stern
of us. At this time there being but little wind, we were obliged to make
all the sail we could, to get without the streight's mouth. At eleven
o'clock I would have shortened sail for the Swallow, but it was not in
my power, for as a current set us strongly down upon the Isles of
Direction, and the wind came to the west, it became absolutely necessary
for me to carry sail, that I might clear them. Soon after we lost sight
of the Swallow, and never saw her afterwards.[48] At first I was
inclined to have gone back into the streight; but a fog coming on, and
the sea rising very fast, we were all of opinion that it was
indispensably necessary to get an offing as soon as possible; for except
we pressed the ship with sail, before the sea rose too high, it would be
impracticable either to weather Terra del Fuego on one tack, or Cape
Victory on the other. At noon, the Islands of Direction bore N. 21' W.
distant three leagues, Saint Paul's cupola and Cape Victory in one, N.
distant seven leagues, and Cape Pillar E. distant six leagues. Our
latitude, by observation, was 52 deg. 33', and we computed our longitude to
be 76 deg. W. Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable region, where we
were in almost perpetual danger of shipwreck for near four months,
having entered the streight on the 17th of December 1766, and quitted it
on the 11th of April 1767; a region where, in the midst of summer, the
weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more
the appearance of a chaos than of nature, and where, for the most part,
the vallies were without herbage, and the hills without wood.

[Footnote 48: How very vexatious this was to the Swallow's crew, the
reader has to learn from the account of Carteret's voyage.--E.]

SECTION III.

_A particular Account of the Places in which we anchored during our
Passage through the Streight, and of the Shoals and Rocks that lie near
them._

Having cleared the streight, we steered a western course. But before I
continue the narrative of our voyage, I shall give a more particular
account of the several places where we anchored, plans of which are
deposited in the Admiralty-office for the use of future navigators, with
the shoals and rocks that lie near them, the latitude, longitude, tides,
and variation of the compass.

I. CAPE VIRGIN MARY. The bay under this cape is a good harbour, when the
wind is westerly. There is a shoal lying off the cape, but that may
easily be known by the rock-weed that grows upon it: The cape is a steep
white cliff, not unlike the South Foreland. Its latitude, by
observation, is 52 deg. 24' S. and its longitude, by account, 68 deg. 22' W. The
variation of the needle, by the medium of five azimuths and one
amplitude, was 24 deg. 30' E. In this place we saw no appearance either of
wood or water. We anchored in ten fathom, with coarse sandy ground,
about a mile from the shore, Cape Virgin Mary bearing N. by. W. 1/2 W.
distant about two miles, and Dungeness Point S.S.W. distant four miles.
We anchored here on the 17th of December, and sailed the next day. There
is good landing, on a fine sandy beach, all along the shore.

II. POSSESSION BAY. In sailing into this bay, it is necessary to give
the point a good birth, because there is a reef that runs right off it
about a short mile. The soundings are very irregular all over the bay,
but the ground is every where a fine soft mud and clay, so that the
cables can come to no damage. The point lies in latitude 52 deg. 23' S.
longitude, by account, 68 deg. 57' W.: The variation is two points easterly.
In the bay the tide rises and falls between four and five fathom, and
runs at the rate of about a mile an hour; in the mid-channel without the
bay, it runs nearly three miles an hour. In this place we saw no
appearance either of wood or water. The landing appeared to be good, but
we did not go on shore. We anchored here on the 19th of December, and
sailed again on the 22d.

III. PORT FAMINE. At this place, the Spaniards, in the year 1581, built
a town, which they called Phillippeville, and left in it a colony,
consisting of 400 persons. When our celebrated navigator, Cavendish,
arrived here in 1587, he found one of these unhappy wretches, the only
one that remained, upon the beach: They had all perished for want of
subsistence, except twenty-four; twenty-three of these set out for the
river Plata, and were never afterwards heard of. This man, whose name
was Hernando, was brought to England by Cavendish, who called the place
where he had taken him up, Port Famine. It is a very fine bay, in which
there is room and conveniency for many ships to moor in great safety. We
moored in nine fathom, having brought Cape St Anne N.E. by E. and Sedger
River S. 1/2 W. which perhaps is the best situation, though the whole
bay is good ground. In this place there is very good wooding and
watering; we caught many fine small fish with a hook and line off the
ship's side, and hauled the seine with great success, in a fine sandy
bay, a little to the southward of Sedger River: We also shot a great
number of birds, of various kinds, particularly geese, ducks, teal,
snipes, plover, and race-horses, and we found wild celery in great
plenty. The latitude of this place is 53 deg. 42' S., longitude, by
observation, 71 deg. 28' W.: The variation is two points easterly. We
anchored here the 27th of December 1766, and sailed again the 18th of
January 1767.

IV. CAPE HOLLAND BAY. There is no danger in sailing into this bay, and
there is good anchoring ground in every part of it. We lay at about
three cables' length from the shore, in ten fathom, the ground coarse
sand and shells, Cape Holland bearing W.S.W. 1/2 W. distant three miles,
Cape Froward a little to the N. of the E. Right a-breast of the ship
there was a very fine rivulet, and close under Cape Holland a large
river, navigable for boats many miles: The shore also affords fire-wood
in great plenty. We found abundance of wild celery and cranberries,
mussels and limpets, but caught very little fish, either with hook and
line, or the seine. We killed some geese, ducks, teal, and racehorses,
but they were not plenty. This bay lies in latitude 53 deg. 57' S.,
longitude, by account, 72 deg. 34' W.; the variation is two points easterly.
The water rose about eight feet; we found, however, no regular tide, but
for the most part a strong current setting to the eastward. We anchored
here on the 19th of January, and sailed again on the 23d.

V. CAPE GALLANT BAY. In this bay, which may be entered with great
safety, there is a fine large lagoon, where a fleet of ships may moor in
perfect security. There is a depth of four fathom in every part of it,
with a soft muddy ground. In the bay, the best anchoring is on the east
side, where there is from six to ten fathom. Here is good watering from
two rivers, and plenty of wood. The lagoon abounded with wild fowl, and
we found wild celery, mussels, and limpets in plenty. We did not haul
the seine, having torn one to pieces, and the other being unpacked; but
if we had, there is reason to believe that we should have been well
supplied with fish. The landing is good. The latitude of the bay and
lagoon is 53 deg. 50'S., longitude, by account, 73 deg. 9' W.; the variation is
two points easterly. I observed the water to rise and fall about nine
feet, but the tide was very irregular. We anchored here the 23d of
January, and sailed again the 28th.

VI. ELIZABETH'S BAY. At the entrance of this bay there are two small
reefs, which appear above water. The most dangerous lies off the east
point of the bay; but this may easily be avoided, by keeping at the
distance of about two cables' length from the point. There is good
landing all round the bay, but it is much exposed to the westerly winds.
The best place for anchoring is Passage Point, at half a mile distance,
bearing S.E. and the river bearing N.E. by E. distant three cables'
length; in this situation, a bank or shoal, which may be known by the
weeds, bears W.N.W. distant a cable's length: The ground is coarse sand,
with shells. 'Sufficient wood is to be procured here for the use of
ships, and there is good watering at a small river. We found a little
celery and a few cranberries, but neither fish nor fowl. The latitude of
this place is 53 deg. 43' S. the longitude, by account, 73 deg. 24' W.; the
variation is two points easterly. We anchored here the 29th of January,
and sailed the 4th of February.

VII. YORK ROAD. The only danger of sailing into the bay, that is formed
by two points in this road, arises from a reef that runs off to about a
cable's length from the western point, which, once known, may be easily
avoided. To anchor in this bay, it is safest to bring York Point E.S.E.
Bachelor's River N. by W.1/2 W. the west point of the bay or reef
N.W.1/2 W. and St Jerom's Sound W.N.W. at the distance of half a mile
from the shore. There is good watering about a mile up Bachelor's River,
and good wooding all round the bay, where the landing also is, in all
parts, very good. We found plenty of celery, cranberries, mussels, and
limpets, many wild fowl, and some fish, but not enough to supply the
ship's company with a fresh meal. The latitude here is 53 deg.39'S.,
longitude, by account, 73 deg.52'W.; the variation two points easterly. The
water rises and falls about eight feet, but the tide is irregular. The
master, who crossed the streight many times to examine the bays,
frequently found the current setting in three different directions. We
anchored here on the 4th of February, and sailed again the 11th.

VIII. BUTLER'S BAY. This is a small bay, entirely surrounded by rocks,
so that no ship should anchor here if she can possibly avoid it. We
found, however, sufficient wood and water to keep up our stock, mussels
and limpets in plenty, some good rock fish, and a few wild fowl, but
celery and cranberries were very scarce. This bay lies in latitude 53 deg.
37'S., longitude, by account, 74 deg.9'W.; the variation is two points
easterly. The water rises and falls here about four feet, but the
current always sets to the eastward. We anchored here the 18th of
February, and sailed the 1st of March.

IX. LION COVE. This is a small bay, and surrounded by rocks. The water
is deep, but the ground is good. It is not a bad place for one ship, nor
a good one for two. Here is good watering up a small creek, but no wood.
There is good landing at the watering-place, but no where else. We found
no refreshment but a few mussels, limpets, and rock-fish, with a little
celery. The latitude is 53 deg.26'S., longitude, by account, 74 deg.25'W.; the
variation was two points easterly. The water, as far as we could judge
by the appearance of the rocks, rises and falls about five feet, and the
current sets at the rate of about two knots an hour. We anchored here on
the 2d of March, and sailed the next day.

X. GOOD-LUCK BAY. This is a small bay, and, like several others in this
streight, entirely surrounded by rocks. The ground is very coarse, and
the cable of our best-bower anchor was so much rubbed, that we were
obliged to condemn it, and bend a new one. At this place there is a
little wood, and plenty of good water, but the rocks render it very
difficult of access. No man that sees this part of the coast, can expect
to find any kind of refreshment upon it; and indeed we caught nothing
except a few rock-fish, with hook and line. There may be circumstances
in which it may be good luck to get into this bay, but we thought it
very good luck to get out of it. It lies in latitude 53 deg.23'S.,
longitude, by account, 74 deg.33'W.; the variation is two points easterly.
The water rises and falls between three and four feet, though, whenever
we had an opportunity of trying the current, we found it run easterly.
We anchored here the 3d of March, and sailed the 15th.