Across India by Oliver Optic
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Oliver Optic >> Across India
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"Whose statue is that--the Duke of Wellington?" asked Louis, as he walked
on one side of Sir Modava, with his mother on the other side.
"Not at all; most of our streets and buildings are named after persons
noted in the history of India," replied the Indian gentleman, laughing.
"That is the statue of Lord William Cavendish Bentinck, the first
governor-general of India; and many important events dated from his time,
for he suppressed the suttee and thugging."
"Thugging?" repeated the lady interrogatively.
"You have not been told about it; but I will give you its history when we
have time, for here are the Eden Gardens," replied Sir Modava.
"Not the Garden of Eden?" suggested Mrs. Belgrave.
"Only named for it; but it is a very beautiful garden in English style,
though the trees and plants are, of course, different. It has water enough
for variety; and there is no difficulty at all in getting it, for the city
is hardly above the river at high tide. All there is of the fort you can
see from here."
"But what are those things over the other side of the park?"
"They are all tanks; and, of course, they are to hold water. Each of them
has its name, generally Indian. Now we will walk across to the Chowringhee
Road, where the finest private residences of the city are situated. On our
left is the Government House, which we passed when we came in. It is a fine
building, and it has a large garden of its own."
"But what is it for?" asked the lady.
"It is the residence of the governor-general, generally called the viceroy;
and he has his offices there. Now, if you look beyond Fort William, you
will see the race-course."
"I don't care for that," replied Mrs. Belgrave, whose memories of the sport
were anything but pleasant.
"Near it is the presidency jail, and there are two hospitals farther
along."
The party walked along the road to view the residences of the nabobs, and
returned to the hotel, where they seated themselves on the large veranda
overlooking the street. The first thing Louis did was to look at a
thermometer he discovered on a post.
"How hot is it, Louis?" asked his mother.
"It isn't hot at all; it is only 70 deg.."
"The glass varies here from 52 deg. to 100 deg.; but we don't get the latter figure
except in summer," added Sir Modava.
"But you have awful cyclones here, an English lady told me last night,"
said Mrs. Belgrave.
"We do; but we never have them at this season of the year; they come in
May, September, and October, and sometimes in November the belated ones. In
1867 we had one in the latter month which destroyed thirty thousand native
houses; but you know they are built of bamboos and such stuff, and it does
not take much of a breeze to demolish them. Another in June, 1870, did
nearly as much damage."
"I should think the bore would make mischief here," suggested Louis.
"The monsoons here begin in July, and during their time the bore is the
most mischievous. The big wave comes up the river at the rate of twenty
miles an hour. All boats run for the middle of the river, where the billow
does not break against the shore. Ships often part their cables, and knock
themselves to pieces against the walls. Sometimes the bore is twelve feet
high, though not much more than half that generally."
"What are the prices at a hotel like this one, Lord Tremlyn?" asked Dr.
Hawkes.
"Here is the list of prices," replied his lordship, handing him a card
taken from the wall.
"Coffee at six in the morning, breakfast _a la fourchette_ at nine,
tiffin at one, and dinner at seven. Price, Rs. six per day," the doctor
read. "I suppose Rs. means rupees; and that makes it about twelve English
shillings, or three dollars a day, which is not high."
"There are no extras except for wines, liquors, and beer, which none of
your people use," added the viscount. "But you have to pay for your own
attendance; and your servant's pay is from eight to ten rupees a month, or
about a pound."
"Cheap enough!" exclaimed the surgeon. "I have to pay my waiter at home six
pounds a month."
"Now, what is there to be seen in Calcutta?" asked the commander after
breakfast.
"If you wish to see mosques, temples, pagodas"--the viscount began.
"We do not," interposed the captain. "At first those were very interesting;
but we have seen enough of them."
"I supposed so," added Lord Tremlyn. "I have ordered carriages, and to-day
we will take a general view of the city."
This plan was agreeable to the party, and it was carried out. From the
hotel they proceeded to the river. There was a crowd of shipping at anchor,
and at the landing-stages and jetties. Among them Louis was the first to
discover the Guardian-Mother. She was in the middle of the river, off Fort
William. Half a mile below her they saw the Blanche. At the request of the
commander, the carriages went down to the fort, where the passengers all
alighted, and gathered together on the shore. The gentlemen cheered, and
the ladies waved their handkerchiefs.
"I see that Mr. Boulong has painted the ship, and she looks as taut and
snug as a man-of-war," said the commander, who was evidently glad to see
his vessel.
"They are lowering the boats," added Louis; and in a few minutes the barge
and first cutter came up to the shore.
There was a general handshaking with the first officer, in command, and the
boys extended this courtesy to all the crews of the boats, going on board
of them for a few minutes. It was a happy meeting; but it could not be long
continued, and the carriages drove off again.
As he was about to take his place in the landau, Mr. Boulong informed the
commander that he had received a visit from Captain Mazagan. He wanted to
see Captain Ringgold, but did not state his business. The first officer
could not tell whether the visitor knew the Blanche was in the river, for
he had not mentioned her. With the statement that the party would go on
board in two or three days, they parted, and the boats returned to the
ship. The commander had something to think of now; but he came to the
conclusion that the reprobate was not aware of the presence of the Blanche
or her owner.
The carriages followed the shore road till they came to the upper end of
the city, and then turned into the first of the long streets with several
names in different parts, which extends entirely through the town. Near the
esplanade they found the finest shops, and the ladies went into some of
them to see the goods. Then they struck the Circular Road, and drove
entirely around the city.
"This reminds me of Moscow, in some parts, where palaces and shanties are
side by side in the same street," said Captain Ringgold. "There does not
seem to be any aristocratic section, unless that by the esplanade is such."
They saw plenty of mosques, temples, and churches, some of the latter very
fine. They believed they had taken in the whole city. After dinner Lord
Tremlyn invited them to an excursion on board of a steam-yacht the next
day, the use of which was tendered to him by a high official.
CHAPTER XXXV
A SUCCESSFUL HUNT IN THE SUNDERBUNDS
A breakfast at six o'clock was provided the following morning for the
tourists, and they came down from their chambers prepared for the aquatic
excursion, which was to include something more than sight-seeing, for the
gentlemen and the boys were directed to take their rifles along. Mr.
Boulong had called upon the commander the evening before, and he had been
invited to join the party; but he had excused himself, and suggested that
Mr. Gaskette would enjoy it more than he should, and he was asked to go.
By half-past six the party were on The Strand, as the road in the esplanade
bordering the river is called. The second officer of the ship was there;
and he was not only a sailor and an artist, but he had the reputation of
being a dead shot. The company embarked on the steam-yacht, which was large
enough to make voyages to Madras and Ceylon. The excursion was not intended
as a mere shooting-party, Lord Tremlyn explained, but to enable the company
to obtain a better view of Calcutta than they could get in any other
manner.
From the river a full view was obtained of the multitude of columns,
belfries, and cupolas, as well as of the Government House, the Town Hall,
and the line of magnificent houses beyond the esplanade. Along the shore
The Strand, as it is called the whole length of the city, the jetties, and
the landing-stages were crowded with men; for, where labor is so cheap,
work is not done by small forces of men. There are several lines of
steamers running between London, Southampton, and Liverpool to this port;
and they were constantly arriving and departing.
"You don't see such a variety of races here as you did in Bombay," said
Lord Tremlyn as he was pointing out the sights to be seen. "You observe
some Chinamen and Burmese; but most of the laborers are of the low class of
natives, Bengalese, and they are very sorry specimens of the Hindus."
"But what are the merchants and shopkeepers?" asked Captain Ringgold.
"They are Baboos, which is a name given to the Bengalese. The better class
of them, in contact with the English, realize that education is a power;
and they have labored for years to improve their countrymen. They have
established schools and colleges, and when young natives applied for
government situations the authorities felt obliged to admit them. To-day
you will find many natives acting as clerks in the post-office, railway,
and telegraph-offices, as well as in the courts in minor capacities.
"In fact, there has been a social revolution in progress here for half a
century or more, and its effects may be seen now. The government has
modified the lot of woman to some extent, as you have learned. The Hindu
law weighed terribly upon her. When a woman lost her husband, custom
required that she should be sent back to her own family. Her relatives
shaved off her hair, dressed her in the coarsest clothing, and compelled
her to do the severest drudgery of the household. She is forbidden to marry
again, and is treated as though she was responsible for becoming a widow.
The reforming of this evil is in progress; but the people are baked into
their prejudices and superstitions of forty centuries, and it is worse than
pulling their teeth to interfere with them.
"One of the favorite divinities of the natives here is Kali, the wife of
Siva, the goddess of murder. Her worship is odious and disgusting; for her
altars were formerly sprinkled with human blood, and the idols were
surrounded with dead bodies and skulls. Their great festival is the
Churuk-Pooja, which is still celebrated, though the government has
forbidden all its brutal features. You have all seen a 'merry-go-round'
machine in which children ride in a circle on wooden horses.
"An apparatus like this, but without the wooden steeds, was used by these
fanatics. At the end of the four arms hung ropes with sharp hooks at the
end, on which were hung up the devotees, as the butcher does his meats in
his shop; and the machine was revolved rapidly till the hooks pulled out,
and the victim dropped upon the ground, fainting or dead. At the present
time the festival is attended by Baboos of the best class; but it amounts
simply to an athletic exhibition with music. The government and the
reformers have brought about this change of performance."
"Do the English attend such shows?" asked Dr. Hawkes.
"Sometimes, from curiosity. But they are here just about what they are in
London, and their habits are much the same," replied the viscount. "The
river here is about a mile wide. Formerly we could not have come as far as
we have without seeing hundreds of corpses floating on the surface. Natives
who were too poor to pay the bill for the funeral pyre threw the bodies of
their friends into the river. Of course this was a menace to the health of
the city; and the practice was forbidden by the government, which built an
immense tower, wherein is kept a fire constantly burning, in which the
bodies of the poor are consumed without expense."
"See that big bird on the shore!" exclaimed Mrs. Belgrave. "I saw several
of them yesterday, and I meant to ask what it was."
"That is the _arghilah_, generally called the adjutant," replied Sir
Modava. "He is the licensed scavenger of Calcutta, for it is forbidden by
law to kill or molest him. You see him walking about in a crowd with as
much dignity and gravity as though he were a big banker; and he is also
seen perched upon the walls and buildings. They have an enormous bill, as
you observe. A friend of mine had a tame one; and one day when the table
was ready for dinner he took a chicken from the dish and swallowed it
whole. He has a searching eye, and discovers a hidden bit of meat, a dead
cat or other animal, and bolts it in the twinkling of an eye."
The steamer continued on her course down the river, and in less than four
hours arrived at Diamond Harbor. It contained a fort, a signal-station, and
a telegraph-office, though there is nothing in the shape of a village. The
East India Company's ships made this their port; but the improvement of the
navigation of the river enables all the steamers to go up to the city, to
which their arrival is telegraphed.
The extensive territory included in the delta of the Ganges is called the
Sunderbunds, and is about equal to the State of Massachusetts in size. It
is a muddy region, cut up by a network of streams; and it is full of
swamps, morasses, and mud-holes. Nearest to the sea is a belt of land,
forming a wide extent of jungle, with a dense undergrowth of tropical
plants and verdure; for it is in the Torrid Zone, which the tourists
entered about forty miles north of Calcutta. This jungle was the objective
point of the hunters of the party.
The captain of the steam-yacht took the company on board through a number
of the lagoons and cutoffs to enable them to see the wild character of the
scenery. Lord Tremlyn, Sir Modava, and Dr. Ferrolan were kept busy
explaining the trees, plants, crocodiles, storks, and other animals.
At a pleasant basin, dinner was served on board, and it was quite as good
as they would have obtained at the Great Eastern; for just now the party
were government guests, and the officials could not do enough for a person
of Lord Tremlyn's influence in England. After the meal the hunters prepared
themselves for the sport in which they were to engage. Mrs. Belgrave warned
her son to be very careful, and Mrs. Blossom did as much for Felix.
The steamer started into a cut-off leading through to the Bay of Bengal,
the polite captain explained. It was full of game of all sorts, including
the wild buffalo, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, wild hog, deer, and the trees
and bushes were as full of monkeys as they could swarm. It was agreed among
the hunters that none of the latter should be shot, for they were harmless
animals.
"Captain, dear, are there any schnakes forninst the joongle?" asked the
Milesian, who was much exhilarated at the prospect of the sport, and easily
slipped into the vernacular of his mother.
"Plinty av thim, Musther McGavonty," replied Captain O'Flaherty, with a
broad grin on his honest face. "They air as thidck as broken heads at a
Donnybrook fair."
"Faix, ye's air a brither o' moine!" exclaimed Felix, grasping the hand of
the captain.
"Air ye's from the County Carhk?"
"Oi'm from the county and parish of Kilkenny; or mi mudther was, thou'
she's dead now, long loife to her! Wud I foind ary cobry in here?"
"All you'll want uv 'em; and pythons too."
"What is a poithon?" asked Felix.
"A big schnake; a boa, or loike him."
"Is it the bore that runs up the river to Calcutty?"
"Not the same boa," laughed the captain. "But you speak English, for I have
heard you do it; and I have about forgotten my native brogue."
"If the boa is a snake, he is the fellow I want to see," replied Felix.
"There's one of them now!" exclaimed Captain O'Flaherty, pointing to one
wreathed around a bush.
The young hunter brought his rifle to his shoulder, and fired before the
captain had time to say anything more. The python began to writhe and
wriggle in the bush, and Felix fired again. Then he dropped off into the
water. The rest of the company had been aft with the ladies, but they all
rushed forward at the report of the rifle. The captain stated what the
hunter had done, as he rang to stop and back the boat. They saw the bamboo
on which the serpent had been, but the game could not be seen. They
wondered what had become of him.
The rest of the hunters began to shoot ducks, herons, and other
water-fowls. As fast as a bird dropped into the bayou he disappeared, and
not one of them could be recovered. Captain Ringgold wondered what became
of them, and the Indian gentlemen only laughed at his perplexity.
"But what becomes of them, for they do not sink?" demanded the commander.
"You shall see," replied Sir Modava. "Don't shoot the adjutants; but there
is a long-legged heron. I will bring him down, for he waits very patiently
to be shot. Now watch the water when he comes down."
The bird dropped the moment he fired, and the instant he touched the water
a pair of jaws closed upon him, and drew him under water. The company were
astonished, and looked for an explanation.
"I never counted the crocodiles in this river; but I should guess there
were at least a million of them, and they steal your game as fast as you
bring it down," said Sir Modava.
The ladies were interested; and another bird was shot, to enable them to
see the operation of the saurians. The python was about ten feet long, and
he must have been a meal for one of them. The cranes, herons, and storks
were numerous; but the party decided to kill no more of them, for they held
still, as though they were all ready to be shot; and there was no sport in
such game.
The boat continued on its course for half an hour longer, and then came up
to a sort of stockade, extending out into the water, and near it were a
couple of bamboo huts. This wild region is sparsely peopled with Hindus,
who are obliged to keep guard over themselves and their families all the
time, and are occasionally the victims of the ferocious monsters of the
jungle and of the water.
"What is that stockade for?" asked the commander, as soon as the steamer
was moored to the shore.
"The Hindus are a cleanly people, as required by their religion," replied
Captain O'Flaherty in the hearing of all the party. "That stockade contains
a big trough for washing their scanty clothing. It reaches into the water,
so that they can fill their washtub without going out of it."
"I don't see why?" asked Mrs. Woolridge.
"If they went to the border of the stream to dip up water the crocodiles
would pick them up as fast as they did so," added the captain; and all the
ladies shuddered, and wanted to get out of such a horrible place.
"But the hunters are to land here; and they will find all the heavy game
they can dispose of, for there have been no hunters here yet this season to
scare them off. You will find the biggest tigers of India here, gentlemen."
The hunters went on shore, and as they passed down the gangway they saw a
couple of the crocodiles in the water. Louis put a bullet into the eye of
one, and Mr. Woolridge served the other in the same way; but all of them
thought saurians were mean game. Near the huts they found two men, and Sir
Modava had a talk with them, which no one else could understand; but he
employed them to guide the party and show them their traps.
"The wife of one of these men was devoured by a crocodile a year ago, and
the daughter of the other, a child of six, had been borne off by a tiger,"
he explained, as they proceeded after the two men.
They soon came to the traps. The tigers were exceedingly numerous on all
the islands formed by the cut-offs, and swam without difficulty from one to
another. The first trap they saw was a broad trench, the bottom and sides
armed with stakes of the hardest wood, sharpened to a wicked point. A
roaring sound attracted the visitors to another of the same kind, in which
a monstrous tiger was floundering about, trying to escape the points that
pierced him. He was suffering fearfully; and Captain Ringgold shot him at
once, though the Hindus were delighted by his torture.
Another kind of trap was more ingenious. It was on the plan of the
twitch-up snare, common in New England. A young tree, very strong and
flexible, is bent down till the upper end touches the ground. To this
extremity is attached a stout cord, and fastened to a stake in the ground.
A slip-noose is so arranged that the tiger thrusts his head through it in
order to reach the meat with which the cord holding the tree is baited. As
the animal pulls the cord he casts off the line holding the tree in its
bent position. The slip-noose is tightened around his neck, the tree flies
up into the air, carrying the tiger with it. Everything about the trap is
made very strong, and there the savage marauder hangs till he chokes to
death.
[Illustration: Captain Ringgold brought down another--Page 349]
The party moved on, and they had not gone ten rods before a cobra elevated
his head. Felix claimed the right to fire first, and he killed him with one
ball. A large python was Scott's first prize; and, after a long walk, they
came to a nest of tigers, as it seemed, for there were not less than five
of them drinking at a brook. It appeared to be the only place in the
vicinity where fresh water could be obtained. The first of the tigers was
killed by Louis with a single shot, for he put the ball through the eye of
the beast.
Captain Ringgold brought down another with three shots from his repeating
rifle. Felix did not care for tigers; he was looking for snakes, and they
came to the brook to drink. In a couple of hours he had half a dozen of his
favorite game. He declared that he was following the blessed example of St.
Patrick, and if he did not die too soon he would rid the world of all the
snakes in it.
The five tigers lay dead by the brook; and, taking the advice of the
coolies, the hunters returned into a thicket, where Felix killed another
python. The party could see the brook. A pair of timid deer came next to
drink; but they fled at the approach of what seemed to be a family of
leopards, for two of them were evidently cubs. They were all shot; but the
repeated reports of the rifles had probably scared off others, and no more
beasts of any kind came.
"These men say you have killed more tigers and leopards than any party of
hunters who ever came here," said Sir Modava, who carried a rifle, but had
not fired it once; and Lord Tremlyn's weapon had not been discharged; for
both preferred to leave the game for their friends.
It was a great hunt, and the Americans were correspondingly proud of their
success. Louis and Felix had been trained in a shooting-gallery, and
neither of them missed his aim; but the shooting had all been at short
range. With the help of two coolies, all the game was carried to the
steamer, where it was exhibited to the rest of the company. The tigers were
all skinned by the coolies and the crew of the steamer, as were the
leopards; but after Mrs. Blossom and the others had seen the snakes, they
were fed out to the crocodiles. The coolies were abundantly rewarded, and
seemed to worship their visitors. They presented to them four mango fish,
golden-yellow in color, and exquisite in flavor.
The steamer cast off her fasts, and headed for Calcutta; but it was late,
and the fish presented, which abound in the markets of the city, were the
burden of a fine supper they ate on the way.
CHAPTER XXXVI
THE PARTING FESTIVITIES ON THE HOOGLY
While the hunters were so successfully bagging the big game of the jungle,
Captain O'Flaherty had taken the party who had remained on board the
steamer on an excursion through some of the waterways of the Sunderbunds,
so that they were not wearied by waiting for those more actively employed.
The united party had thoroughly enjoyed the day, even into the evening. The
skins of the tigers and leopards were sent to an expert, to be prepared for
future preservation when the time should admit.
At the hotel the wonderful success of the hunters was the theme of the
other guests; but the place was regarded as a dangerous one, though that
would not deter Englishmen from visiting it if it were not so difficult of
access, for a government steam-yacht was not available for many parties.
The next morning the tourists were taken to the Botanical Garden, a short
distance above the city, which is said to be the finest as well as the most
spacious in the world.
It was not an affair of greenhouses, like most of such places they had
seen; for they were superfluous in the Torrid Zone, and all the plants grew
in the open air. The ladies and most of the gentlemen were greatly
interested in the plants and flowers, and the whole forenoon was agreeably
passed in viewing them. Uncle Moses insisted that the baobab and the Indian
banyan were literally the "biggest things" there; for the trunk of the
former was ten feet in diameter, while the latter covered half a square
mile of ground. The latter had been considerably damaged by a cyclone.
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