A Review of the Resources and Industries of the State of Washington, 1909 by Ithamar Howell

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[Illustration: FRONTISPIECE.--WASHINGTON'S NEW CAPITOL BUILDING.
(Photo Engraved from a Drawing.)
CONSTRUCTION OF THE NEW CAPITOL TO BE ERECTED ON THE FOUNDATION
ALREADY LAID AT OLYMPIA WAS AUTHORIZED AT THE 1909 SESSION OF THE
LEGISLATURE.]

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A REVIEW OF THE RESOURCES
AND INDUSTRIES
OF
WASHINGTON

1909

* * * * *

PUBLISHED UNDER AUTHORITY OF THE LEGISLATURE, FOR GRATUITOUS
DISTRIBUTION BY THE BUREAU OF STATISTICS, AGRICULTURE AND IMMIGRATION

I. M. HOWELL.
_Secretary of State_
_Ex-Officio Commissioner_

GEO. M. ALLEN,
_Deputy Commissioner,_

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OFFICE OF THE
BUREAU OF STATISTICS, AGRICULTURE AND IMMIGRATION,
OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON, JUNE 1, 1909.

_To His Excellency M. E. Hay, Governor of Washington:_

We have the honor to transmit herewith the Biennial Report of the
Bureau of Statistics, Agriculture and Immigration for the year 1909,
dealing with the various resources and industries of Washington.

Very respectfully,

I. M. HOWELL.
_Secretary of State_,
_Ex-Officio Commissioner_.

GEO. M. ALLEN,
_Deputy Commissioner,_

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INTRODUCTION

OFFICE OF THE
BUREAU OF STATISTICS, AGRICULTURE AND IMMIGRATION,
OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON, JUNE 1, 1909.

This publication represents an effort to place before the general
public, and particularly the visitors at the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific
Exposition, a brief description of the principal resources and
industries of the State of Washington.

Its imperfections may be accounted for largely by reason of the
fact that funds for the purpose did not become available until the
first day of April of the current year. This necessitated unusual
haste in securing and preparing the material upon which the pamphlet
is based. However, we have endeavored to deal conservatively and
fairly with the various subjects under consideration, and to present
all the information possible within the limits of the space at
our disposal.

Our purpose has been to supply the reader with an outline of the
salient facts which account for the marvelous growth and development
which the commonwealth is enjoying. To go largely into detail within
the scope of a pamphlet of this size would be, manifestly, an
impossibility. We might readily exhaust our available space in
dealing with one industry or in describing a single county. Details,
therefore, have been necessarily and purposely avoided.

We have sought to bring the entire state within the perspective of
the reader, leaving him to secure additional facts through personal
investigation. Along this line, attention is called to the list of
commercial organizations and local officials presented
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in the statistical portion of this report. Nearly all the larger
communities of the state maintain organizations, equipped to supply
detailed facts relating to their particular locality. Much valuable
information may be obtained on application to these organizations
or to local officials.

An expression of appreciation is due those who have assisted us
by supplying information and collecting photographs for use in
this publication. Without such aid the completion of the pamphlet
would have been materially delayed.

[Illustration: Plate No. 1.--Fruit Farm Adjoining Town of Asotin,
Asotin County.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 2--Asotin County Views.]

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GENERAL OUTLINE OF THE RESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES OF WASHINGTON.

The State of Washington as now constituted, was, prior to 1853,
a portion of the Territory of Oregon. During the year mentioned,
a new territory was carved from the old Oregon boundaries, which
the statesmen of that day evidently believed was marked by destiny
for the achievement of great things, for they conferred upon it
the name of Washington.

That our state, thus highly distinguished, has already demonstrated
itself worthy of the exalted name, so happily bestowed upon it, the
most carping critic must admit. With a population now reaching up
toward a million and a half, and with all the forces that make for
industrial, commercial and agricultural supremacy in full swing,
and gathering new momentum yearly, Washington is moving onward
and upward toward a position among the very elect of our great
sisterhood of states.

As briefly as the story may be told, the fundamental facts which
underlie the marvelous advancement made by the state during recent
years will be set forth in the pages of this pamphlet.

NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE STATE.

By virtue of its varied topography, Washington is naturally divided
into a number of districts or sections, each possessing its own
particular characteristics.

Olympic Peninsula.

The first of these districts may be described as consisting of that
section of the state including the Olympic mountains and extending
westward from them to the Pacific ocean. Within the limits of this
Olympic peninsula, as it is ordinarily termed, there is standing
one of the largest and most valuable tracts of virgin timber yet
remaining in the United States.

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Puget Sound Basin.

The second district includes the territory lying between the Olympic
and Cascade mountains, the chief physical feature of which is the
great inland sea known as Puget Sound. The shore front of this
important waterway exceeds 2,000 miles, and its length is broken
by numerous bays and harbors, upon which are located Seattle, the
state's metropolis, and the growing cities of Tacoma, Everett,
Bellingham and Olympia. The climate of this section is mild in winter
and cool in summer, extremes in either season being practically
unknown. Deep sea shipping enters the port of Puget Sound from every
maritime country on the globe, and the industrial and commercial
interests of this section are expanding with extraordinary rapidity.

The Cascade Mountains.

The Cascade mountains constitute the third of these natural divisions.
This range extends in a broken line across the width of the state, at
a distance of about 120 miles from the Pacific ocean. These mountains,
their rugged peaks capped with a mantle of eternal snow, their sides
covered with a heavy timber growth, and their valleys carrying
numerous sparkling mountain streams, with illimitable possibilities
for the development of power, are one of the important assets of
the state, the value of which has not as yet even been estimated.
The mineral wealth of the Cascades, only a slight knowledge of
which has as yet been secured, will ere long contribute largely
to the prosperity of the state, while the more moderate slopes of
the mountains serve a valuable purpose for the pasturage of numerous
flocks and herds.

Okanogan Highlands.

The fourth district is known as the Okanogan highlands, and occupies
that portion of the state lying north of the Columbia river and
east of the Cascade mountains. This section of the state contains
valuable timber and mineral wealth in addition to presenting many
attractive opportunities to the farmer and horticulturist. It has
been hampered thus far by
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lack of adequate transportation facilities, and for this reason
land may be had at exceptionally reasonable figures.

Columbia River Basin.

The Columbia river basin is by far the largest natural division of
the state, and, generally speaking, includes the section drained
by that river and its tributaries. Within the confines of this
district are the great irrigated and grain-growing sections of the
state, which are a source of constantly increasing wealth.

This great "Inland Empire," as it has come to be called, has made
thousands of homeseekers independent, and is largely responsible for
the rise to commercial greatness of the splendid city of Spokane.
Other cities of growing importance lying within the Columbia river
basin are Walla Walla, North Yakima, Ellensburg and Wenatchee,
while scores of smaller communities are annually adding to their
population with the continued development of the districts of which
they are the immediate distributing centers.

The Southeast.

The Blue mountains form the chief natural characteristic of the
extreme southeastern section of the state, which constitutes the
sixth division. This is comparatively a small district, but one
that is highly favored by climatic and soil advantages, and it
is well timbered and watered.

The Southwest.

The southwest is the seventh and final division of the state. It
comprises an extensive district, fronting on the Columbia river and
the Pacific ocean. It is heavily wooded and its chief industries
are based upon its timber wealth. The taking and canning of fish and
oyster culture are also important industries, while fruit growing
and general farming are carried on upon a constantly increasing
scale.

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NATURAL RESOURCES OF WASHINGTON.

Probably few other states in the Union excel Washington in the
great variety, abundance and value of the natural gifts prepared
and ripe for the hand of man within its borders. Preceding races
were content to leave its wealth to us, being themselves satisfied
to subsist upon that which was at hand and ready for consumption
with no effort but the effort of taking. The impenetrable forests
were to them a barrier to be let alone. For the minerals within the
mountains they had no use, and to gather wealth from the tillage
of the soil needed too much exertion. Fish and game and fruits all
ready to gather were all they sought, and the state had enough
of these to attract and hold a large population. But the vision
of the white man was different. His eye scanned the peaks of the
Cascades with its great eternal white Rainier having its head thrust
up among the clouds, and he realized that around and beneath them
must be a vast hoard of the precious metals. His eye caught the
dazzling grandeur of the white-capped Olympics, but he realized
that they held in reserve something more substantial to his needs
than scenery and hunting grounds. The impenetrable barriers of the
forest-covered foothills were to him a treasure worth the struggle
for an empire. He scanned the glittering waters of the bays and
inlets of Puget Sound and its great open way to the Pacific Ocean
and realized that it meant more to him and to his children than a
place to catch a few fish. He viewed the vast plains of "barren"
land within the great winding course of the Columbia river and
believed it worth more than pasturage for a few bands of ponies.

The thousand tumbling water-falls that hastened the course of the
rivers toward the sea meant more than resting places for the chase. No
wonder the hardy pioneers whose vision saw the grandeur of Washington
and comprehended its meaning dared a mighty journey, vast hardships
and trying and dangerous hazards to save this empire to Uncle Sam.
Washington, saved by the energy and foresight of a few, has become the
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delightful home of a million and more, and their possession is
one that Alexander or Napoleon would have coveted, had they known.

[Illustration: Plate No. 3.--Chehalis County Timber.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 4.--The Logging Industry in Chehalis County.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 5.--View of Harbor, Aberdeen, Chehalis
County.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 6.--Limb Cut from a Chelan County Peach
Tree.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 7.--Six-Year-Old Winesap Apple Tree on
Farm of Blackmont Bros., Chelan County.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 8.--Farm of Wm. Turner, Chelan County.
From Sage Brush to Bearing Orchard, Showing How Living Is Made
While Orchard Is Coming Into Bearing.]

FORESTS.

From British Columbia to the majestic Columbia river and from the
Cascade mountains westward to the ocean a vast forest of magnificent
timber stretches out over mountain and hill and valley, covering
the whole landscape of western Washington in a mantle of living
green. The majestic fir trees, which, as small evergreens, adorn
the lawns of other climes, here stretch their ancient heads 300
feet heavenward and give the logger a chance to stand upon his
springboard and, leaving a fifteen foot stump, cut off a log 100
feet in length and 7 feet in diameter free from limbs or knots. Side
by side with these giants of fir are other giants of cedar, hemlock
and spruce crowded in groups, sometimes all alike and sometimes
promiscuously mingled, which offer to the logger often 50,000 feet
of lumber from an acre of ground.

But these great forests of western Washington are not all the forests
within the state. The eastern slope of the Cascade mountains well
down toward the lands of the valleys is mostly covered with timber.
A belt from 30 to 50 miles wide stretching clear across the north
boundary of eastern Washington is mostly a forest, while a large
area in the southeastern corner of the state, probably 24 miles
square, is also forest covered.

To estimate the amount of timber which can be cut from these vast
forest areas is difficult; estimates are not accurate, yet it is
probable that the lumber made will in time far exceed any estimate
yet placed upon this chief source of the wealth of the State of
Washington. Of the fir the estimate has been made that shows still
standing enough timber to make 120 billion feet; for the cedar the
estimate is 25 billion feet, while the same amount of 25 billion
feet is credited to hemlock; 12 billion feet of spruce are claimed,
12 billion feet of yellow pine and probably 6 billion feet of other
woods, including maple, alder, oak, yew, ash and many others, together
forming the great mass of 200 billion feet of lumber. Where forest
areas are cut off, the
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sun and air at once start to life seeds which lie dormant in the
shade and a new crop at once starts and the old ground is in a
few years reforested in nature's prodigal way, a thousand seeds
sprouting and growing where only one giant can ultimately stand.

Of these timbers, the fir, largest in quantity, is also largest
in usefulness. For bridge work, shipbuilding, the construction of
houses, etc. it is unsurpassed. Cedar is lighter and more easily
worked and for shingles chiefly and many other special uses is
superior. Spruce is fine grained, odorless and valuable for butter
tubs, interior finish, shelving, etc. The hemlock is valuable not
only for the tannin of its bark, but as a wood for many purposes is
equal to spruce. The yellow pine, where it is plentiful is the main
wood used in house construction and for nearly all farm purposes.
The yellow pine is the chief timber in all eastern Washington. The
harder woods, maple, alder, ash, etc., are used where available
in furniture construction and for fuel, as are also all the other
woods.

COAL.

Not content with covering half the surface of the state with forests
for fuel, the Creator hid away under the forests an additional
supply of heat and power sufficient to last its future citizens an
indefinite period. The white man was not slow to find and locate
the coal measures in many counties, notably in Kittitas, King,
Pierce, Lewis, Whatcom and Thurston, and to put it to the task of
driving his machinery. The coal measures of these counties are of
vast extent, and, although little developed yet, there are 3,000,000
tons of coal mined annually in Washington. Other counties are known
to have coal measures beneath their forests, but as yet they have
not been opened up for commerce.

The coal already mined includes both lignite and bituminous varieties
and furnishes fuel for the railroads, steamboats and power plants,
giving very satisfactory results. Much of the bituminous coal makes
an excellent article of coke and provides this concentrated carbon
for the various plants about the state engaged in smelting iron
and other metals.

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The fixed carbon of the coal ranges from 48 to 65 per cent. and
the total values in carbon from 64 to 80 per cent. and the ash
from 3 to 17 per cent. The coal measures underlie probably the
great bulk of the foothills on both sides of the Cascades and some
of the Olympics, the Blue mountains of the southeast and some of
the low mountains in the northeastern part of the state.

Besides these coals already mentioned, it is known that veins of
anthracite coal exist in the western part of Lewis county, the
extent and value of which have not been fully determined, and, owing
to the absence of transportation, are not on the market.

MINERAL ORES.

The general topography of the state suggests at once the probability
of deposits of ores of the precious metals, and the cursory prospecting
already done justifies the outlook. Practically the entire mountain
regions are enticing fields for the prospector. Substantial rewards
have already been realized by many who have chanced the hardships,
and there are now in operation many mining enterprises which are
yearly adding a substantial sum to the output of the wealth of
the state. The ores occur chiefly in veins of low grade and great
width and known as base on account of the presence of sulphur,
arsenic and other elements compelling the ores to be roasted before
smelting.

There are, however, some high grade ores in narrow fissures and in
a few localities free milling ores and placer deposits are found.
In most cases the free milling ores are the result of oxidation and
will be found to be base as water level is reached in the mining
process.

Mining of precious metals is being prosecuted in Whatcom, Skagit,
Snohomish, King, Pierce, Lewis, Skamania, Cowlitz, Okanogan, Chelan,
Kittitas, Yakima, Klickitat, Ferry and Stevens counties.

Of the metals the mines of the state are producing gold, silver,
lead, copper, quicksilver, zinc, arsenic, antimony, molybdenum,
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nickel, cobalt, tungsten, titanium, bismuth, sulphur, selenium,
tellurium, tin and platinum.

There are also iron mines, and quarries of marble, granite, onyx,
serpentine, limestone and sandstone--beds of fire clay, kaolin,
fire and potter's clays, talc and asbestos and many prospects of
petroleum.

Mining is suffering for the lack of transportation for the low
grade ores, but prospects are excellent for relief in this regard in
the near future. The era of wildcat exploitation has been relegated
to the past and legitimate mining is now getting a firmer hold
in the state, and we look for results within the next five years
which will astonish many who think themselves well informed.

FISHERIES.

A glance at the map of the state will disclose a remarkable combination
of salt and fresh waters within the jurisdiction of the state of
such a character as to amaze one not familiar with it, but learned
in the habits of the finny tribe in general.

The ocean is the great feeding ground. Out of its mysterious depths
the millions of fish come into fresh waters fat and rich from the
salt water vegetation.

[Illustration: Plate No. 9.--Chelan County Views.]

[Illustration: Plate No. 10.--Farm and Dairy Scene Common to Clallam
County.]

The great Columbia river in the south, Willapa harbor, Grays harbor,
the majestic straits of Fuca and the equally majestic straits of
Georgia on the north are all great open highways from the sea, not
only for merchandise laden ships, but for myriads of salt water
food fishes which annually traverse their bottoms. Into these open
mouths flows a great network of fresh water rivers and streams,
draining the entire area of the state and providing the spawning
waters for the fishes from the sea not only, but for millions of
strictly fresh water fishes. Not only these, but late years have
proven the shore waters of the state to produce also great numbers
of oysters, clams, crabs and shrimp. Nor is this all, because the
proximity of the state to the ocean gives it a great advantage
in profiting from the fishing industry among that class of the
finny hosts who refuse to leave their salt water homes. So that
from the whales of Bering sea to the speckled beauties that haunt
the mountain
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streams, through the long list of delectable salt and fresh water
food, the fisherman of Washington has an enticing and most profitable
chance to satisfy his love of sport and adventure not only, but
to increase his bank account as well.

SOILS AND LANDS.

Washington is particularly blessed in having a diversity of soils,
all admirably adapted to some department of agriculture and giving
the state the opportunity of great diversity in the occupations
of its people. The central plateau of eastern Washington, made
up of level stretches and undulating hills, is all covered with a
soil composed of volcanic ash and the disintegration of basaltic
rocks which, together with some humus from decayed vegetation,
has made a field of surpassing fertility for the production of
the cereals with scant water supply; but under the magic touch of
irrigation it doubles its output and makes of it not only a grain
field but an orchard and garden as well. Underneath the forests
of eastern Washington, along the northern border of the state and
in its southeastern corner there is added a large proportion of
clay, a necessary element for perpetual pasturage, and widening
the field for fruit growing.

In western Washington, upon the bench lands and on the hills and
foothills the forests are supported upon a gravelly soil, intermixed
with a peculiar shot clay which disintegrates with successive tillage
so that when the forests are removed the soil becomes ready for
all the grasses and grains and fruits. In the valleys more silt
and humus make up the soil, and when the cottonwoods, alders and
maples are gone there is left a soil deep and strong for the truck
gardener and general farmer, which will endure successive tillings
for ages. At the deltas of the rivers are large reaches of level
lands, some of which have to be diked to prevent the overflow of
the tides, which have had added the fertility of the salts of the
ocean and are probably the richest lands in the state fit for cereals
and root crops, not omitting the bulbs which have made the deltas
of Holland famous. There are also extensive peat beds which,
scientifically
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fertilized, will produce abundant returns to the intelligent farmer.

LANDS.

The lands of the state are owned, some by Indian tribes, some by
the general government, some by the state, but largely by individual
citizens and corporations.

Indian Lands.

Of the Indian lands most of them have been "allotted" and the balance
will soon be thrown open to settlement. Of these the largest in
western Washington are the Quinault and Makah reservations and in
eastern Washington the great Colville reservation. This latter will
in time make two or three counties of great value, being adapted
to general farming, dairying, fruit growing and mining, and having
an abundance of forest area for fuel and building purposes. Those
in western Washington are timbered areas at present.

Government Lands.

The remnant of government lands are chiefly among the more barren
areas of eastern Washington and the poorer forest lands of western
Washington. The method of obtaining title to government lands is
generally known, and if not, can be obtained from the general land
offices, one of which is in Seattle, Olympia, Vancouver, Spokane,
Waterville, Walla Walla and North Yakima. The government still holds
title to nearly six million acres, and, while the best has been
acquired by others, the diligent searcher can still find homesteads
and desert claims worth energy and considerable expense to secure.

State Lands.

A recent estimate of the value of the state lands still in possession
makes them worth 56 million dollars. They include nearly 3,000,000
acres, a large portion of which is heavily timbered. These lands
may be obtained from the state through the state land commissioner
by purchase outright on very easy terms, or may be leased for a
term of five to ten years at a low rental, the lessee receiving
virtually a first right to purchase.

These state lands are as good as any in the state and offer to the
homeseeker a splendid opportunity for a start.

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In this state there are also numerous tide lands, oyster lands,
and shore lands to be obtained at various prices, both from the
state and from private individuals who have already acquired title
from the state.

WATER POWER.

It is probable that no state in the Union is better equipped for
creating power than the State of Washington. Numerous waterfalls
of magnitude are already successfully utilized. Among these the
most noted are the Spokane falls, capable of producing 400,000
horse power; the Snoqualmie falls, with a sheer descent of 250
feet, with a capacity of 100,000 horse power; Puyallup river at
one place is furnishing about 20,000 horse power; the Cedar river
has a capacity of 50,000 horse wer; the Nooksack falls with 15,000
horse power already generated; Tumwater falls with 4,000 horse
power, with Chelan falls, the Meyers falls and the falls of Asotin
creek all in use to limited extent. The waters of the Yakima river
are also in use in part for power purposes, but more extensively
for irrigation. Besides these there are many minor streams already
harnessed.

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