Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In North West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2) by George Grey
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George Grey >> Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In North West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2)
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24 JOURNALS
OF
TWO EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY
IN
NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN
AUSTRALIA,
DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, AND 1839,
Under the Authority of Her Majesty's Government.
DESCRIBING
MANY NEWLY DISCOVERED, IMPORTANT, AND
FERTILE DISTRICTS,
WITH
OBSERVATIONS ON THE MORAL AND PHYSICAL
CONDITION OF THE ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS, ETC. ETC.
BY GEORGE GREY, ESQUIRE.
GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA;
Late Captain of the Eighty-third Regiment.
...
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOLUME 1.
...
LONDON:
T. AND W. BOONE, 29 NEW BOND STREET.
1841.
...
CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1.
DEDICATION.
PREFACE.
CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. TENERIFE.
GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.
INSTRUCTIONS.
TENERIFE.
AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.
EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.
CAMELS.
STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS.
TABLES.
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.
MARINE BLOWING-STONE.
GUANCHE BONE CAVE.
CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.
LAND AT BAHIA.
EVENING WALK.
THE TOWN.
STATE OF SOCIETY.
REMARKS ON VOYAGE FROM BAHIA TO THE CAPE.
ARRIVAL THERE.
HIRE THE LYNHER.
EQUIPMENT AND PLANS.
SAIL FOR HANOVER BAY.
CHAPTER 3. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO HANOVER BAY.
NATURAL HISTORY.
CHAPTER 4. HANOVER BAY.
NEW AND DANGEROUS SHOAL.
ARRIVAL OFF THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY FROM SHIP-BOARD.
LAND AT HIGH BLUFF POINT.
WALK TO HANOVER BAY.
DISTRESS FOR WANT OF WATER ON THE ROUTE.
LOSS OF OUR THREE DOGS.
TRACES OF NATIVES.
THEIR HUTS.
ALARMING DEBILITY OF THE MEN.
EFFORTS TO REACH THE VESSEL.
SWIM AN INLET OF THE SEA.
DANGER IN THE PASSAGE ACROSS AND AFTER LANDING.
THE PARTY REGAIN THE LYNHER.
CHAPTER 5. AT HANOVER BAY.
PLAGUE OF FLIES.
ENTRANCE TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
EFFECT OF TIDES.
GREEN ANTS.
DESCRIPTION OF LANDING-PLACE, AND ENCAMPMENT AT HANOVER BAY.
FATE OF TWO OF THE DOGS.
LABOUR OF DISEMBARKING STORES.
NATIVES.
REMARKABLE FISHES.
PREPARATIONS FOR SENDING THE VESSEL TO TIMOR.
CHAPTER 6. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.
NATIVES SEEN.
FIRST EXCURSION.
CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY.
GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.
CUCKOO-PHEASANT.
SPORTING.
NATIVE HAUNTS.
ATTACK OF NATIVES.
RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.
PROCEEDINGS THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
CHRISTMAS DINNER.
PLANTING USEFUL SEEDS.
WALK TO MUNSTER WATER.
ISTHMUS NEAR HANOVER BAY.
HILL OF SHELLS.
COUNTRY ABOUT PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
GOUTY-STEMMED TREES.
SINGULAR PIECES OF SANDSTONE.
CHAPTER 7. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.
OCCUPATION AT THE CAMP.
RETURN OF THE LYNHER.
RELATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT TIMOR AND ROTI.
NEW ISLAND SEEN.
TROUBLE WITH THE HORSES.
EXCURSION BY WATER TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
CHARACTER OF ITS SHORES.
SCENERY AND THUNDERSTORM.
DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR.
DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.
SICKNESS AND MORTALITY AMONG THE HORSES AND STOCK.
CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
CHAPTER 8. TO THE GLENELG RIVER.
MEETING AND ENCOUNTER WITH THE NATIVES.
UNFORTUNATE RESULTS.
DESCENT FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE.
DESCRIPTION OF A NEW VOLCANIC COUNTRY.
DISCOVERY AND CHARACTER OF THE GLENELG RIVER.
IMPEDIMENTS FROM MARSHES AND STREAMS.
PROGRESS TOWARDS THE UPPER PART OF THE GLENELG.
CHAPTER 9. TO THE UPPER GLENELG.
WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY.
MOUNT LYELL.
MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT.
MARKS OF INUNDATIONS.
NATIVES.
COCKATOOS.
TORRENTS OF RAIN.
SWAMPS.
SNAKE AND KANGAROO.
NATIVE BRIDGE.
PRECIPITOUS PASS.
FRILLED LIZARD.
BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.
WILD OATS.
CURIOUS BIRDS.
PAINTED CAVE.
CROSS A LARGE RIVER.
NATURAL GRAPERY.
FORD THE GLENELG.
WEAKNESS OF THE MEN.
ANOTHER PAINTED CAVE.
NARROW ESCAPE.
IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGES.
CHAPTER 10. RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.
UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR A PASS.
PREPARATIONS TO RETURN.
LIGHT EXPLORING PARTY SENT FORWARD UNDER LIEUTENANT LUSHINGTON.
THEIR REPORT.
COMMENCEMENT OF MARCH BACK.
CHANGE OF TRACK.
CURIOUS MOUNDS OF STONES.
PASS MOUNT LYELL.
RECOVERY OF BURIED STORES.
ANXIETY ON APPROACHING HANOVER BAY.
REJOIN THE LYNHER.
MEETING WITH THE BEAGLE.
STATE OF THE PLANTS AND SEEDS LEFT AT THE ENCAMPMENT.
REEMBARKATION.
SAIL FOR THE MAURITIUS.
CHAPTER 11. NATURAL HISTORY. CLIMATE. ABORIGINES.
DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS.
NEW KANGAROO.
NEW DOMESTIC DOG.
CHECKS ON INCREASE OF ANIMALS.
INFLUENCE OF MAN ON THEIR HABITS.
TRACES OF AN ANIMAL WITH A DIVIDED HOOF.
BIRDS.
EMUS.
ALLIGATORS.
CLIMATE.
PROOFS OF ITS SALUBRITY.
THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS.
ABORIGINES, THEIR HABITS AND MANNERS.
INDIVIDUALS OF AN ALIEN RACE.
SIMILARITY OF CUSTOMS WITH OTHER AUSTRALIAN TRIBES.
CAVES.
DRAWINGS.
TOMBS.
CHAPTER 12. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
MOUNTAIN RANGES.
RIVERS.
VALLEYS.
PRODUCTIONS SUITED FOR CULTIVATION.
COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.
TRADE WITH THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.
METHOD OF BARTER.
SUCCESS OF AMERICAN VESSELS.
TRADING PRODUCTS OF THE SEVERAL ISLANDS.
CHAPTER 13. AT SWAN RIVER.
PLAN FOR RETURNING TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST.
WHY ABANDONED.
EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.
STORY-TELLING TO NATIVES.
LAKES.
DELAY, AND BIVOUACK.
NATIVE TOILETTE.
MEETING WITH A NEW TRIBE.
CURIOUS SUPERSTITIONS.
REVENGEFUL COMBAT AND MURDER PREVENTED.
RETURN TO PERTH.
EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF MR. ELLIOTT.
CAUSE OF IT.
THE MURRAY RIVER.
WILD CATTLE.
NATIVE TRACKING.
CROSS THE DARLING RANGE.
CONDITION OF DISTANT SETTLERS.
ROUTE ALONG MR. ELLIOTT'S TRACKS.
KILLING A KANGAROO.
LOSE THE TRACKS.
NATIVE GRAVE.
ESTUARY OF THE LESCHENAULT.
MEET WITH MR. ELLIOTT.
RETURN TO PERTH.
CHAPTER 14. FROM SWAN RIVER TO THE SHORES OF SHARK BAY.
PLAN OF EXPEDITION.
SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER FOR SHARK BAY.
LAND AT BERNIER ISLAND.
DESCRIPTION OF IT.
BURY THE STORES.
INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER.
LOSS OF A BOAT IN REEMBARKING.
PULL FOR DORRE ISLAND.
ITS CHARACTER.
HURRICANE.
BOATS DRIVEN ASHORE.
DISTRESS FOR WATER.
SAIL FOR THE MAIN.
GROUND ON A SANDBANK.
EXTENSIVE SHALLOWS.
FAIL IN MAKING THE LAND.
ANCHOR OFF MANGROVE CREEK.
CHAPTER 15. THE GASCOYNE RIVER.
ENTER A MANGROVE CREEK.
SEARCH FOR AND COMPLETE OUR WATER.
EXAMINE ANOTHER CREEK.
CHARACTER OF THEIR SCENERY.
DISCOVER ONE MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE RIVER, AND EXPLORE THE COUNTRY IN ITS
VICINITY.
SURVEY OF MOUTHS OF THIS RIVER AND BABBAGE ISLAND.
EXPLORE THE COUNTRY INLAND TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.
INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.
SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
CHAPTER 16. TO KOLAINA AND BACK TO THE GASCOYNE.
EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
LYELL'S RANGE.
BOAT SWAMPED IN BEACHING.
STATE OF PROVISIONS.
SEARCH FOR WATER.
REMARKABLE PLAINS.
INDISPOSITION OF SEVERAL OF THE PARTY.
EXAMINATION OF THE SHORE TO THE NORTHWARD, AND OF THE COUNTRY TO THE
SOUTH-EAST.
AFFRAY WITH THE NATIVES.
CONTINUED FOUL WEATHER.
PUT TO SEA.
COMPELLED AGAIN TO BEACH THE BOATS.
ADJACENT COUNTRY EXPLORED.
LAUNCH THE BOATS, AND ENTER NORTHERN MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
CHAPTER 17. FROM THE GASCOYNE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
A GALE OF WIND.
REACH BERNIER ISLAND.
DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS.
REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO THE MAIN.
ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD.
ITS CHARACTER.
STEER FROM THE MAIN.
ANOTHER GALE.
LAND ON PERRON'S PENINSULA.
DESCRIPTION OF IT.
ROUND CAPE LESUER.
BEACH THE BOATS.
SAIL AGAIN FOR DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.
LAND THERE.
PASS OVER TO THE MAIN.
DESCRIPTION OF THE LAND.
ROUND STEEP POINT, AND PUT BACK AGAIN.
PASSAGE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
THE INTERVENING COAST.
BOAT TOTALLY WRECKED IN BEACHING IN GANTHEAUME BAY.
...
ERRATUM.
Volume 1 Table: for Castles, read Chateaux.
...
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOLUME 1.
1. Map of the District of the River Glenelg, on the North-Western Coast
of Australia, from the surveys of George Grey, Esquire, by John
Arrowsmith.
2. Sandstone Cave with Paintings near Glenelg River.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
3. Diphya, Sp.
4. Diphya, Sp. (Acalepha.)
5. Salpa, Sp.
6. Hyalea, Sp.
7. Physsophora rosacea.
8. Erichthus vitreus.
9. Janthina exigua.
10. Glaucus, Sp.
11. Phyllosoma, Sp.
12. Attack of Natives near Hanover Bay.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
13. Three rows of notches made by people on the Gouty-Stem Tree.
14. Gigantic Ants' Nest and Gouty-Stem Tree.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
15.1. Figure drawn on the roof of Cave, discovered March 26th.
15.2. Figure drawn on side of Cave, discovered March 26th.
15.3. Oval drawing in Cave, discovered March 26th.
15.4. Figure drawn in Cave, discovered March 26th.
16. Head cut in Sandstone Rock.
Captain Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart,
Lithographic Printers.
17. Figure drawn on roof of Cave, discovered March 29th.
18. Supposed Native Tombs.
Discovered on the North-Western Coast of New Holland, 7 April 1838.
Published by T. & W. Boone, London.
19. Nest or Bower of the Chalmydera nuchalis.
20. Map and Chart of the West Coast of Australia, from Swan River to
Shark Bay, Including Houtman's Abrolhos and Port Grey, from the Surveys
of Captains Grey, Wickham, and King, and from other official Documents,
compiled by John Arrowsmith.
21. Attack of Natives near Kolaina Plains.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Frederick C. Smith,
Esquire.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
...
DEDICATION.
TO
THE LORD GLENELG,
UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES,
AS PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES,
THE EXPEDITIONS
RECORDED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES
WERE UNDERTAKEN,
THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,
IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE
OF HIS ASSISTANCE, HIS COUNSELS, AND HIS KINDNESS,
IN HIS HIGH PUBLIC STATION,
AND
WITH A PROFOUND RESPECT
FOR
HIS PERSONAL AND DOMESTIC VIRTUES.
...
PREFACE.
The following pages contain the results of the author's travels and
residence in the western parts of Australia, between the years 1837 and
1840, during which period he traversed extensive regions unknown to the
European traveller, and probably never before trodden by the foot of
civilized man.
It is not alone with gratification of enlightened curiosity that the
countries now first brought to notice are likely to be objects of
interest. A knowledge of the districts lying between Swan River and Shark
Bay cannot but be of importance to future colonists, whilst the
intertropical provinces of the north-west coasts, distinguished as they
are by important peculiarities both of character and position, are
equally calculated to draw the attention of the literary and enterprising
enquirer.
It only remains to state in a few words the circumstances under which
this work is given to the public.
The author arrived in England in September, 1840, and was engaged in
preparing his notes for publication when he was unexpectedly honoured
with an appointment which re-called him to Australia in the month of
December following.
Avocations both of a public and private nature arising out of that
appointment prevented him from carrying his work through the press during
the short period of his residence in this country, and consequently the
final arrangement of the impression and the duties of typographical
revision devolved on others.
Although no pains have been spared to render these volumes worthy of the
public eye, the circumstances under which they appear will naturally
occasion them to be marked by defects which, doubtless, would not have
escaped the author's notice and correction had he been present.
It would be an act of injustice not to express here the obligations the
author is under to Mr. J.E. Gray of the British Museum for his valuable
assistance in whatever relates to natural history in the body of the
work, as well as for the contributions in the same branch of science
which will be found in the Appendix; nor are his thanks less due to Mr.
Adam White for an interesting paper on the Entomology of Australia; and
to Mr. Gould, who has lately visited that country, for his list of the
Birds of the Western Coast.
...
JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY.
CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. TENERIFE.
GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.
The Expeditions of which the results are narrated in the following pages
took their origin from a proposition made to Government by myself, in
conjunction with Lieutenant Lushington,* in the latter part of the year
1836.
(*Footnote. Now Captain Lushington of the 9th Foot.)
At that time a large portion of the western coast and interior of the
great Australian continent had remained unvisited and unknown; whilst the
opinions of the celebrated navigators Captains Dampier and King,
connected with other circumstances, led to the inference, or at least the
hope, that a great river, or water inlet, might be found to open out at
some point on its western or north-western side; which had then been only
partially surveyed from seaward.
DESIGN OF THE EXPEDITION.
Anxious to solve this interesting geographical problem, we addressed a
letter to Lord Glenelg, the Secretary of State for the Colonies, wherein
we offered our services to conduct an exploration from the Swan River to
the northward, having regard to the direction of the coast, so as to
intersect any considerable body of water connecting it with the interior;
and, in the event of such being discovered, to extend our examination of
it as far as circumstances might admit.
The letter containing this offer also enumerated several secondary
objects, to which we proposed to direct our attention, and which were
ultimately comprehended in our instructions.
The offer and suggestions were favourably entertained by Lord Glenelg,
and further communications invited; and, the project having been favoured
by the support of the Royal Geographical Society, our services were
finally accepted by the Government.
INSTRUCTIONS.
More mature consideration however led to a material alteration in the
first plan; for whilst our principal object, namely, the search for a
great river or interior inlet, remained the same, it was considered, for
several reasons, more advisable that the exploration should commence from
the vicinity of Prince Regent's River, on the north-west coast, and be
directed towards the Swan. I shall pass over the various points of detail
which occupied our time and attention until the moment of departure, as
they offer no matters of general interest. It will be sufficient to say
that everything suggested as likely to be conducive to the success and
utility of the expedition was most liberally granted and supplied; and,
when all was prepared, a letter of instructions dated the 16th June 1837
was addressed by Lord Glenelg to myself and Lieutenant Lushington
conjointly; which embraced the following points:
1. We were to embark in H.M. sloop of war the Beagle, then fitting out
for a survey of the coasts and seas of Australia, under the command of
Captain Wickham, R.N.; and to proceed in that vessel either to the Cape
of Good Hope or to Swan River, as might ultimately appear best suited to
forward the objects of the expedition.
2. On our arrival at either of the foregoing places, we were directed to
procure a small vessel to convey the party and stores to the most
convenient point in the vicinity of Prince Regent's River.
3. After due examination of the country about Prince Regent's River we
were instructed to take such a course as would lead us in the direction
of the great opening behind Dampier's Land. From the moment of our
arrival at this point our subsequent proceedings were left more
discretionary; but the instructions continued: "You will use the utmost
exertions to penetrate from thence to the Swan River; as, by adopting
this course, you will proceed in a direction parallel to the unknown
coast, and must necessarily cross every large river that flows from the
interior towards that side of the continent."
4. That we might have an opportunity, in the event of any unforeseen
difficulties occurring, of falling back upon the vessel conveying the
party, she was not to quit the place where she might have been left by it
until such a time had elapsed, from the departure of the expedition for
the interior, as should be agreed upon; and, to ensure the observance of
this condition, we were instructed to act by the advice of the local
authorities of the colony where she might be engaged in drawing up the
agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its fulfilment.
5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to be: To gain
information as to the real state of North-Western Australia, its
resources, and the course and direction of its rivers and mountain
ranges; to familiarize the natives with the British name and character;
to search for and record all information regarding the natural
productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its
capabilities for colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of
its natural history.
6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the
regulations by which our intercourse with the natives was to be governed
were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following
paragraphs:
No further detail has been given you in these instructions, for, as you
have been made aware of the motives which have induced his Majesty's
Government to send out the expedition, it is supposed each individual
will do his utmost in his situation to carry these objects out, either by
obtaining all possible information or by such other means as may be in
his power.
Although the instructions regarding the expedition are addressed to you
conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary that the principal
authority and direction should be vested in one individual, on whom the
chief responsibility would rest.
It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior military officer,
is considered as commanding the party and the person by whose orders and
instructions all individuals composing the party will be guided and
conform.
...
1837.
All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle,
besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon and naturalist,
and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had
volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July
1837.
TENERIFE. AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.
The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz in Tenerife,
where I landed on Wednesday 19th July 1837, about 2 o'clock in the
afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 o'clock at an hotel kept
by an Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing as I
met there a German and several English merchants who were principally
engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman who had
been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he
gave me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals so
occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic
observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which at about
three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the town approaches it by a
passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been
attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and
noble, the actual plan upon which it has been completed was by no means
well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and
twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its
breadth in many parts is not more than four.
Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of Santa Cruz
was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so that the
inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards
of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been
experienced since its completion. The expenses of its construction as
also of keeping it in repair are principally defrayed by a tax upon all
wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.
The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic but by
no means rich; fig-trees grew wild about the mountains, and it seemed
singular that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent
hills shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide,
this was done to deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and, upon
my return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that such was
their custom.
EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.
July 20th.
I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about
30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small ponies, admirably
adapted to the wretched roads of the country, and accompanied by two
guides who carried our carpet bags.
CAMELS, MATANZAS, THE GUANCHES.
The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some
importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. On this road
we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which
rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar
formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over
sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued
mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these
animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.
After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting
appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by
the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our
carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired,
catching hold of the horses' tails to assist themselves along.
We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called
from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards which was here made by the
Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this
occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and
perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you
can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well
adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made
the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.
All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by
the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains,
I could glean but little information about them, but to this subject I
will advert again.
Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then,
swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty however arose
here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish,
although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying
our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the
guides saw our distress and made signs that he would arrange matters for
us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I
saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked
him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to
understand me; so we saw no more of it.
SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.
In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery
compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above
Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front
rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages,
and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava,
encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to
the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise
rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.
We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached
La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but,
on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my
recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our
guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at
Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.
EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.
Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we
accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French,
Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken
here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood
us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and
would not desert us.
We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little
shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected,
we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but,
although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not
get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate
sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.
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