Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh by Benjamin Kohlmeister and George Kmoch
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Benjamin Kohlmeister and George Kmoch >> Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh
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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM OKKAK, ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR,
TO UNGAVA BAY, WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH;
UNDERTAKEN to Explore the Coast, and Visit the ESQUIMAUX in that
Unknown Region
by
BENJAMIN KOHLMEISTER and GEORGE KMOCH
Missionaries of the Church of the Unitas Fratrum or United Brethren
London:
Printed by W. M'Dowall, Pemberton Row, Gough Square, Fleet Street,
for the Brethren's Society for the Furtherance of the
Gospel Among the Heathen.
And Sold By J. Le Febvre, 2, Chapel-Place, Nevils-Court, Fetter-Lane;
L. B. Seeley, 169, Fleet-Street; Hazard And Binns, Bath;
and T. Bulgin, and T. Lambe, Bristol
1814
JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE,
&c. &c.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3
CHAPTER I.
Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage.
Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival
at Nungorome. 6
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon.
Drift-ice. Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok
Mountains. Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak,
or Straits. 10
CHAPTER III.
Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and
of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and
its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the
Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak. 14
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach
Nachvak. Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay.
Detention on account of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak. 20
CHAPTER V.
Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The
Esquimaux manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian
deportment of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas's
address to the Heathen. Love of music general among these
Indians. Departure from Nachvak. Danger in doubling the
North Cape. Arrival at Sangmiyok bay. 27
CHAPTER VI.
Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at
Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esquimaux
travelling bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Netsek seal
described. Greenland houses. Danger of being shipwrecked
near Kakkeviak. 33
CHAPTER VII.
Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His
perseverance in waiting for the arrival of the
Missionaries. Islands and bays between Kakkeviak and
Killinek. Danger in the ice at Ammitok. Want of fuel
supplied by robbing old graves. 39
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killinek.
Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting
with Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen
an European. Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood.
Double Cape Uibvaksoak. Distant view of Akpatok. 44
CHAPTER IX.
Chain of black mountains. The Dragon's dwelling. Changes
occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers
attending them. Uttakiyok's superstitious customs.
Singular effect of the tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok.
Arrive at Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation.
Transactions there. 50
CHAPTER X.
Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The
Esquimaux women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony
of taking possession of this new-explored country, as
belonging to the King of England, and of naming the river
George river. Leave the bay and proceed to Arvarvik.
Whales caught by the Esquimaux in the shallows. Storm at
Kernertut. 56
CHAPTER XI.
Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on
the expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations.
Resolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account of
Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival in
the river Koksoak. 62
CHAPTER XII.
Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region.
Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy
and eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them.
Find a suitable situation for a settlement. Description of
the country. 70
CHAPTER XIII.
Return to Okkak. 77
INTRODUCTION.
For these many years past, a considerable number of Esquimaux have been
in the annual practice of visiting the three missionary establishments
of the United Brethren on the coast of Labrador, OKKAK, NAIN, and
HOPEDALE, chiefly with a view to barter, or to see those of their
friends and acquaintance, who had become obedient to the gospel, and
lived together in Christian fellowship, enjoying the instruction of the
Missionaries.
These people came mostly from the north, and some of them from a great
distance. They reported, that the body of the Esquimaux nation lived
near and beyond Cape Chudleigh, which they call Killinek, and having
conceived much friendship for the Missionaries, never failed to request,
that some of them would come to their country, and even urged the
formation of a new settlement, considerably to the north of Okkak.
To these repeated and earnest applications the Missionaries were the
more disposed to listen, as it had been discovered, not many years after
the establishment of the Mission in 1771, that that part of the coast on
which, by the encouragement of the British government, the first
settlement was made, was very thinly inhabited, and that the aim of the
Mission, to convert the Esquimaux to Christianity, would be better
obtained, if access could be had to the main body of the Indians, from
which the roving inhabitants appeared to be mere stragglers.
Circumstances, however, prevented more extensive plans from being put in
execution; and the Missionaries, having gained the confidence and esteem
of the Esquimaux in their neighbourhood, remained stationary on that
coast, and, by degrees, formed three settlements, OKKAK, to the north,
and HOPEDALE, to the south of NAIN, their first place of residence.
In consequence of the abovementioned invitation, it became a subject of
serious consideration, by what means a more correct idea of the extent
and dwelling-places of the Esquimaux nation might be obtained, and a
general wish was expressed, that one or more of the Missionaries would
undertake the perilous task of visiting such places as were reported by
the Esquimaux themselves to contain more inhabitants than the southern
coast, but remained unknown to European navigators.
The Synodal Committee, appointed for the management of the Missions of
the United Brethren, having given their consent to the measure, and
agreed with Brother Kohlmeister, by occasion of a visit paid by him to
his relations and friends in Germany, as to the mode of putting it into
execution, he returned to Labrador in 1810, and prepared to undertake
the voyage early in the spring of 1811.
For several years a correspondence had taken place between the
Missionaries in Labrador and the Brethren's Society for the Furtherance
of the Gospel, established in London, relating to the manner in which
the voyage should be performed. Opinions were various on the subject;
but it was at length determined, that a steady intelligent Christian
Esquimaux, possessing a shallop, with two masts, and of sufficient
dimensions, should be appointed to accompany one or two Missionaries,
for a liberal recompence; and that the travellers should spend the
winter at Okkak, to be ready to proceed on the voyage, without loss of
time, as soon as the state of the ice would permit of it. Brother
Kohlmeister proposed, in this view, the Esquimaux Jonathan, of Hopedale,
and the brig employed to convey the annual supply of necessaries to the
three settlements, was ordered to proceed first to Hopedale, partly with
a view to this negociation. She arrived safe with Brother Kohlmeister at
this place, on the 22d July, 1810. On the same day, he proposed to
Jonathan the intended expedition, laid before him the whole plan, with
all its difficulties and advantages, and found him immediately willing
to undertake the voyage, and to forward its object by every means in his
power.
This was no small sacrifice on the part of Jonathan. An Esquimaux is
naturally attached to the place of his birth; and, though he spends the
summer, and indeed great part of the year, necessarily, and from
inclination, in roving from one place to another in quest of food; yet
in winter he settles, if possible, upon his native spot, where he is
esteemed and beloved. This was eminently the case with Jonathan. He was
a man of superior understanding and skill, possessed of uncommon
presence of mind in difficulties and dangers, and at Hopedale considered
as the principal person, or chief of his nation. But he was now ready to
forsake all, and to go and reside at OKKAK, among strangers, having no
authority or pre-eminence, and to undertake a voyage of unknown length
and peril, from whence he could not be sure of a safe or speedy return,
before the ice might set in, and confine him upon an unknown shore,
during the whole of a second winter. There was, however, one
consideration which outweighed every other in his mind, and made him,
according to his own declaration, forget all difficulties and dangers.
He hoped that the proposed voyage to visit his countrymen in the north
would, in time, be a means of their becoming acquainted with the gospel
of Christ, and partakers of the same blessings which he now enjoyed.
This made him willing to accept of the call without any hesitation. Nor
did he ever, during the whole voyage, forsake that generous principle,
by which he was at first influenced, but his cheerful, firm, and
faithful conduct proved, under all circumstances, most honourable to the
character of a true convert to Christianity.
Brother KOHLMEISTER being, after seventeen years residence in Labrador,
complete master of the Esquimaux language, and deservedly beloved and
respected both by Christians and heathens, and possessing an invincible
zeal to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare, was a man
eminently qualified to undertake the commission, and to conciliate the
affections of unknown heathen. He had also previously made himself
acquainted with the use of the quadrant, and with other branches of
science, useful on such an occasion.
Brother KMOCH, his companion, joined to other essential qualifications,
great cheerfulness and intrepidity.
All the parties having met at Okkak, in the autumn of 1810, the winter
was partly spent in preparations for the intended expedition, and
Jonathan's boat put into the best possible state of repair.
CHAPTER I.
_Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage.
Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival at
Nungorome._
June 16, 1811.--The ice began to loosen in the bay of OKKAK, and to
drive out to sea. On the 17th, the bay was quite cleared of it; but on
the 18th, it returned, and seemed to preclude all possibility of setting
out so soon as we intended. On the 19th, however, it left us entirely.
20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge of the water, and
being floated by the tide, she came to anchor at six, P.M. She had been
purchased by Jonathan, at Chateau-bay, and was about 45 feet long,
twelve broad, and five deep, with two masts. We had furnished her with a
complete deck, and divided her into three parts. The centre was our own
cabin, into which all our baggage was stowed: the two other divisions
were occupied by the Esquimaux. A small boat, brought from Lewis, was
taken in tow.
21st. We began to ship our provision and baggage: viz. six cwt. of
ship's biscuit, sixteen bushels of pease, one cwt. of salt pork and best
beef, (of which but a small portion was consumed, as we were generally
well supplied with fresh provisions, procured by shooting), a firkin of
butter, half cwt. of captain's biscuit, one cwt. of flour, two small
barrels of gunpowder, one cwt. of large and small shot, half cwt. of
tobacco, two eighteen-gallon barrels of ale, a few bottles of brandy,
eighteen pounds of coffee, which was all consumed, coffee and biscuits
being our usual repast; a case containing knives, wire, nails, &c. for
barter, if necessary; kettles and other utensils. Besides that every man
had his fowling-piece, we had four muskets in reserve. After bringing
all on board, we had just room enough to sleep in our cabin.
22d, was spent in conferring with our brethren, on various subjects
relating to the voyage.
23d. All the Esquimaux met at the chapel, and in the most affectionate
manner, and with many tears, bid us and our company farewell. They were
the more affected with grief on this occasion, as the greatest part of
our own Esquimaux thought the voyage impracticable, and expected that we
should all perish in doubling Cape Chudleigh, (Killinek) on account of
the violence of the currents, setting round between the cape, and the
many rocks and islands which stretch from it towards the north. Reports
had likewise been circulated of the hostile disposition of the Esquimaux
in the Ungava bay; and it was boldly asserted, that if we even got there
alive, we should never return. An old conjuror, (Angekok), _Atsugarsuk_,
had been particularly active in spreading these reports. We cannot deny
but that they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds, but being
fully determined to venture in the name of God, and trusting in His
protection, we were thankful that they failed to produce the intended
effect on Jonathan, our guide, and on the other Esquimaux, who were to
go with us, and who all remained firm.
When Jonathan was told that the Ungava Esquimaux would kill him, he
generally answered: "Well, we will try, and shall know better when we
get there:" and once, conversing with us on the subject, expressed
himself thus: "When I hear people talking about the danger of being
killed, I think: Jesus went to death out of love to us, what great
matter would it be, if we were to be put to death in His service, should
that be His good pleasure concerning us."
24th. Having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace and protecting
care of God our Saviour, and to the kind remembrance of our dear fellow
missionaries, we set sail at two P.M.
Our company consisted of four Esquimaux families: 1. _Jonathan_, and his
wife _Sybilla_, both between fifty and sixty years old. He was esteemed
one of the most skilful commanders on the whole coast of Labrador, and
for many years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the
missionaries in a variety of ways. The boat was his own property, and we
considered him as the captain of the expedition. 2. _Jonas_, Jonathan's
son, and his wife _Agnes_, about thirty years of age, both intelligent,
clever Esquimaux; they had their five children with them; _Sophia_,
twelve years old, _Susanna_, _Jonathan_, _Thamar_, and _Sybilla_, the
youngest but half a year old. 3. _Paul_, and his wife _Mary_, very
agreeable, sensible people, about twenty years of age. Paul is
Jonathan's cousin, and a man of a very warm temper. In activity and
skill, he was next to Jonathan. 4. _David_, and his mother _Rachel_, the
first a hopeful young man of about twenty, and the latter a good-natured
old woman, who had the care of our clothes and linen, and kept them
clean and in good order. Besides these four families, we took with us a
boy, _Okkiksuk_, an orphan, about sixteen, whom Jonathan had adopted,
and who promised to reward the kindness of his guardian by his good
behaviour. He was always ready to render us every service in his power.
We were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat (or woman's boat) in which
were _Thukkekina_ and his wife, and their adopted child _Mammak_, a boy
twelve years old. Their age is about forty. The skin-boat was intended
as a refuge, in case of any accident happening to our own boat, and was
useful in landing, as we never brought the large boat close in shore.
The first four families belong to Hopedale, Thukkekina and his wife to
Okkak. They considered it as a great favour conferred on them to be
permitted to accompany us. _Jonas_ and his family occupied the
after-part, and the rest the fore-part of the boat. The wind was
moderate, and due west. We lost sight of our habitations in about half
an hour, behind the N.E. point of the island Okkak, called Sungolik.
At three, passed Cape Uivak, a cape on the continent, forming a
moderately high headland, and the nearest place to Okkak, where
Esquimaux spend the winter. Two or three winter-houses were standing.
The wind failing, we cast off the skin-boat, which rowed merrily a-head.
Before us, between the islands to the east and the continent, we saw
much drift-ice, and it required attention to avoid the large shoals, the
wind coming round to the N.W. We cast anchor at NUNGOROME, a cove about
ten English miles from Okkak, where we found several of our Esquimaux,
who had here their summer-station. Several had come from Naujasiorvik
and other places, on purpose to meet us, and once more to express their
affection and best wishes for our safe voyage and return. Late in the
evening, we met on a green spot, where Brother Kohlmeister delivered a
short discourse and prayer, after which we retired to sleep on board the
boat.
CHAPTER II.
_Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. Drift-ice.
Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok Mountains. Fruitless
attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak, or Straits._
Nungorome is a cove on the south side of the Island Pacharvik. Between
this island the main land is a narrow strait, so shallow that no whales
can pass. The Esquimaux stretch their nets across, to catch seals,
seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can
only be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which frequent
this coast are of the _Kairolik_ kind, a middle-sized animal, and of the
_Ugsuk_, the largest species of the seal tribe, weighing sometimes from
five to six cwt.
The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were at present
stationed here, in tents, were _Moses_, _Samuel_, _Thomas_, _Isaac_,
_Bammiuk_, and their families. _Solomon_, who has left our communion,
was also here. He had formerly been a communicant member of Okkak
congregation, but could not resist the temptation of going to the north
to feast with the heathen Esquimaux, whenever they had caught a live, or
found a dead whale. On such occasions he was seduced to commit many
irregularities and sins, but always returned to us with a show of great
contrition and repentance. After many relapses, he was informed, that
this would do no longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish
feasts, he would be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man, and
perceived the justice of the sentence; but his love of that species of
amusement overcame all his good resolutions. He not only went again, but
took also another wife; a step which, of course, excluded him from our
fellowship. Yet he is very desirous that his children may receive a
Christian education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel.
25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morning, and suffering
the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready; he then fired his piece, by
which Brother Kohlmeister and all the Esquimaux, young and old, were
suddenly roused from their slumbers. Not one, however, regretted the
unexpected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on beholding the sea
quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair wind; but after
yawning, stretching, and shaking themselves as usual, the Esquimaux with
great good humour got ready, and we set sail at half past three. Passed
Pacharvik Island at four. Bammiuk and Solomon accompanied us as far as
the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a strait) between Cape
Mugford Island, in 58 deg. N. latitude, and the mountains of Kaumayok.
Their being in company retarded our progress, but in the sequel proved
no disadvantage.
About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a distance much
drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoch and Jonas landed on
Cape Mugford Island. An Esquimaux, called _Niakungetok_, accompanied
them to the top of an eminence, from whence the outer opening of the
Ikkerasak was seen. They perceived the ice driving into it from the sea
in such quantities as to threaten to close it up. Cape Mugford is an
high island, extending far into the ocean, and the northern land-mark in
steering for Okkak, _Kiglapeit_ promontory bearing south, and the
Saddle-island appearing right before the entrance of the bay. On their
return to the boat, the wind veered to the north, and we steered for a
dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty miles from Okkak, called
_Ukkuararsuk_. To our great joy the ice began now to drive out again to
sea, and we resolved to go with it. A gentle S.W. wind brought us to the
place, where we had before anchored, but we were now beset with large
fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we had nearly cleared the
straits, when the great quantity of surrounding ice, pressing upon us,
prevented our making further attempts, and we, were compelled to work
our way back with oars and boat-hooks.
On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esquimaux, who by signs
directed our course towards a convenient harbour, near their dwellings,
which we reached in safety.
The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept on board.
The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The strait is about
an English mile broad, and four or five in length. Both shores are lined
with precipitous rocks, which in many places rise to a tremendous
height, particularly on the Kaumayok side, from whence several
waterfalls rush into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air.
The singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when
illuminated by the rising sun, the spray, exhibiting the most beautiful
prismatic colours. Below them huge masses of ice are formed, which seem
to lean against the sides of the rocks, and to be continually increasing
during the winter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun, and
disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides, and help to
form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies S.W. by N.E.
26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the weather fine
and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the
nearest great cataract, and were able, notwithstanding the steepness of
the ascent, to get pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet
perpendicular, and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it,
like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers completely.
They amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall,
which by its force were carried along towards the sea, down the sloping
torrent below. Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a
hearty meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion,
overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy-grass was
made for supper.
27th. We left this harbour about four A.M. with a favourable wind at
West, but as it soon died away, we took to our oars, and reached the
north point of Kaumayok, at the northern extremity of the strait. By an
observation taken by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57 deg.
59' N. latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the sea, and
the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a little, to the
diversion of the other Esquimaux. About two P.M. the wind shifted to the
N.W. By tacking we got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but
having the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were at
length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the strait.
28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We therefore ascended
the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a barren rock, though here and there
a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides, and is
difficult of access. The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which
still rose above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several
small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a great height
perpendicularly into the sea.
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