A Course In Wood Turning by Archie S. Milton and Otto K. Wohlers
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Archie S. Milton and Otto K. Wohlers >> A Course In Wood Turning
[Transcribers note: Mis-spelled words in the original left as is.
Below is a list of all known mis-spelled words kept from the original:
Table Of Contents - Classification of Plates
bowels - should be bowls
Chapter II - SPEED OF THE LATHE
centrificial - should be centrifugal
Chapter IX - METHODS OF FASTENING STOCK
epecially - should be especially
Chapter XI - SPIRAL TURNING
modelling - should be modeling
Chapter XI - PLATES B-V--2-b, b'
midde - should be middle]
A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING
By ARCHIE S. MILTON
OTTO K. WOHLERS
[Illustration: BRUCE MILWAUKEE (Publishers Stamp)]
THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
Copyright 1919
Archie S. Milton
Otto K. Wohlers
PREFACE
This book is the outgrowth of problems given to high school pupils by
the writers, and has been compiled in logical sequence. Stress is laid
upon the proper use of tools, and the problems are presented in such a
way that each exercise, or project, depends somewhat on the one
preceding. It is not the idea of the writers that all problems shown
should be made, but that the instructor select only such as will give
the pupils enough preliminary work in the use of the tools to prepare
them for other models following.
The related matter on the care of the lathe and tools, the grinding of
chisels, the polishing of projects, and the specific directions and
cautions for working out the various exercises and projects with the
drawings, make the book not only valuable for reference, but also as a
class text to be studied in connection with the making of projects. The
drawings show exact dimensions and are tabulated in the upper right-hand
corner in such a way that they may be used in a filing case if desired.
At least two designs are shown for each model, and these may be used as
suggestions from which students, with the aid of the instructor, may
work out their own designs.
The book has been divided into two parts: (A) Spindle Turning, and (B)
Face-Plate Turning. The same order is followed in each part; the related
information is supplied where required as the pupil progresses.
Part A takes up the following: (I) Exercises; (II) Models, involving the
same tool processes, only in a somewhat different degree; (III) Oval
Turning, explaining the use of two centers; (IV) Duplicate Turning,
where identical pieces are turned.
Part B is arranged as follows: (I) Exercises; (II) Models, which are an
application of cuts in exercises that involve only face-plate work;
(III) Models, which require chucking; (IV) Assembling Exercises,
involving spindle turning, face-plate work and chucking; (V) Spiral
Turning, showing the method of turning a spiral on the lathe.
The ultimate aim of this book is to give, through the exercises and
problems, a thorough understanding of the principles of wood turning by
gradually developing the confidence of the pupil in the complete control
of his tools, at the same time suggesting harmonious lines in design
which will lead to other ideas in designing problems.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Pages
CHAPTER I.
Introductory
--Commercial and Educational Values of Wood Turning
--Elements of Success 9-10
CHAPTER II.
The Lathe
--Care of the Lathe
--Speed of the Lathe
--Method of Figuring the Diameter of Pulleys
--Rules for Finding the Speeds and Sizes of Pulleys
--Points on Setting Up the Lathe and Shafting 11-14
CHAPTER III.
Wood Turning Tools
--Grinding and Whetting Turning Tools
--The Gouge
--The Parting Tool
--Scraping Tools 15-18
CHAPTER IV.
Spindle Turning
--Centering Stock
--Clamping Stock in the Lathe
--Adjusting the Tool Rest
--Position of the Operator at the Lathe
--Holding the Tools
--Use of the Tools in Spindle Turning 19-21
CHAPTER V.
Tool Processes in Spindle Turning
--The Roughing Cut
--The Sizing Cut
--The Smoothing Cut
--Testing for Smoothness
--Measuring for Length
--Squaring Ends
--Cutting Off
--Shoulder Cuts
--Taper Cuts
--V Cuts-Concave Cuts
--Convex Cuts
--Combination Cuts
--Chisel Handles
--Mallets and Handles
--Vise Handles 22-32
CHAPTER VI.
Oval Turning
--Tool Operations 33-34
CHAPTER VII.
Duplicate Turning
--Use of Measuring Stick
--Use of Templets 35
CHAPTER VIII.
Finishing and Polishing
--Ordinary Cabinet Finishing
--French Polishing
--Method of Applying French Polish 36-38
CHAPTER IX.
Face-Plate and Chuck Turning
--Methods of Fastening Stock
--Small Single Screw Face-Plate
--Large Surface Screw Face-Plate
--Gluing to Waste Stock
--Lathe Adjustments
--Position of Tool Rest 39-40
CHAPTER X.
Tool Processes in Face-Plate and Chuck Turning
--Straight Cuts
--Roughing Off Corners
--Calipering for Diameter
--Smoothing Cut
--Roughing Cut on the Face
--Smoothing the Face
--Laying Off Measurements
--External Shoulders
--Internal Shoulders
--Taper Cuts
--V Cuts
--Concave Cuts
--Convex Cuts
--Combination Cuts
--Use of Scraping Tools
--Internal Boring
--Turning a Sphere 41-48
CHAPTER XI.
Spiral Turning
--Single Spiral, Straight Shaft
--Tapered Shaft
--Double Spiral, Tapered Shaft
--Double Spiral, Straight Shaft
--Double Groove Spiral, Straight Shaft 49-55
PLATES--SPINDLE TURNING.
Straight Cuts, 57
Shoulder Cuts, 59-65
Taper Cuts, 67-77
V Cuts, 79-81
Concave Cuts, 83-87
Convex Cuts, 89-95
Combination Cuts, 97-101
Chisel Handles, 103-107
Cabinet File Handle, 109
Scratch Awl Handle, 111
Carving Tool Handle, 113
Turning Chisel Handle, 115
Mallets, 117-119
Gavels, 121-127
Darning Eggs, 129-133
Stocking Darner, 131
Potato Masher, 135
Rolling Pins, 139-141
Vise Handle, 143
Screw Driver Handles, 145-147
Pene Hammer Handle, 149
Claw Hammer Handle, 151
Indian Clubs, 153-155
Dumb Bells, 157-159
Ten Pins, 161
PLATES--CHUCK TURNING.
Straight Cuts, 167-169
Shoulder Cuts, 171-173
Taper Cuts, 175-177
V Cuts, 179-181
Concave Cuts, 183-185
Convex Cuts, 187-189
Combination Cuts, 191-195
Match Boxes, 197-201
Pin Trays, 203-205
Hair Pin Receivers, 207-209
Hat Pin Receivers, 211-213
Ornamental Vases, 215-219
Spinnet, 221
Towel Rings, 223-227
Card Trays, 229-235
Picture Frames, 237-243
Nut Bowls, 245-251
Napkin Rings, 253-257
Jewel Boxes, 259-273
Collar Boxes, 275-279
Sphere, 281
Checker Men, 283
Candle Sticks, 285-293
Shaving Stands, 295-301
Reading Lamp Stands, 303-307
Pedestal, 309
Smokers' Stands, 311-313
Pin Cushion and Spoon Holder, 315
Chess Men, 317-319
Pedestals, 321-325
Electric Reading Lamps, 327-335
Magazine Holders, 337-339
CLASSIFICATION OF PLATES
A. SPINDLE TURNING
I. Exercises
1. Straight Cuts, a
2. Shoulder Cuts, a-b-c-d
3. Taper Cuts, a-b-c-d-e-f
4. V Cuts, a-b
5. Concave Cuts, a-b-c
6. Convex Cuts, a-b-c-d
7. Combination Cuts, a-b-c
II. Models
1. Chisel Handles, a-b-c-d-e-f-g
2. Mallets, a-b
3. Gavels, a-b-c-d
4. Stocking Darners, a-b-c
5. Potato Mashers, a-b
6. Rolling Pins, a-b
7. Vise Handles, a
III. Oval Turning
1. Screw-driver Handles, a-b
2. Hammer Handles, a-b
IV. Duplicate Turning
1. Indian Clubs, a-b
2. Dumb-bells, a-b
3. Tenpins, a
4. Drawer Pulls, a-b
B. FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING
I. Exercises
1. Straight Cuts, a-b
2. Shoulder Cuts, a-b
3. Taper Cuts, a-b
4. V Cuts, a-b
5. Concave Cuts, a-b
6. Convex Cuts, a-b
7. Combination Cuts, a-b-c
II. Face-Plate Models
1. Match Boxes, a-b-c
2. Pin Trays, a-b
3. Hair Pin Receivers, a-b
4. Hat Pin Receivers, a-b
5. Ornamental Vases, a-b-c
6. Spinnet, (game) a
III. Chuck Models
1. Towel Rings, a-b-c
2. Card Trays, a-b-c-d
3. Picture Frames, a-b-c-d
4. Nut Bowels, a-b-c-d
5. Napkin Rings, a-b-c
6. Jewel Boxes, a-b-c-d-e-f-g-h
7. Collar Boxes, a-b-c
8. Spheres, a
9. Checker Men, a
IV. Assembling Exercises
1. Candle Sticks, a-b-c-d-e
2. Shaving Stands, a-a'-b-b'
3. Reading Lamp Stands, a-b-c
4. Pedestals, a
5. Smoking Stands, a-b
6. Pin Cushions and Spool Holder, a
7. Chess Men, a-a'
V. Spiral Turning
1. Pedestal, (Single) a-a', (Double) b
2. Reading Lamps, (Single) a-a'-a'' (Double) b-b'
3. Magazine Holder, a-a'
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY
Wood turning has had a definite place in the commercial world for a
great many years. It is used in various forms in making furniture and
furniture parts, building trim, tool parts, toys, athletic paraphernalia
and many other useful and beautiful articles in common use.
When properly taught in the schools it is one of the most valuable types
of instruction. It appeals to pupils more than any other type of manual
work, as it embodies both the play and work elements. It is very
interesting and fascinating and, in the hands of a skilled instructor,
is readily correlated with other work.
Wood turning gives a pupil preliminary experience necessary in pattern
making and machine shop work. It brings into play the scientific element
by demonstrating the laws governing revolving bodies. In bringing the
chisel into contact with the revolving surface, the mathematical
principle of the "point of tangency" is illustrated. Excellent tool
technique is developed in wood turning as on the exactness of every
movement depends the success of the operator, and any slight variation
will spoil a piece of work. This brings in a very close correlation of
the mental and motor activities and also gives the student an
opportunity for observing and thinking while at work. When his tool
makes a "run" he must determine the reason and figure out why a certain
result is obtained when the chisel is held in a given position. Certain
cuts must be fully mastered, and it takes a good deal of experience and
absolute confidence in one's self in manipulating the tools before it is
possible to attempt skilful work. If scraping is allowed the educational
value of the work is lost.
In wood turning a vast field for design and modeling is opened, and art
and architecture can be correlated. The pupil will see for himself the
need of variety in curves and must use his judgment in determining
curves that are so harmonious and pleasing that they will blend
together. If properly taught the beauty in the orders of architecture
can be brought out in the making of the bead, fillet, scotia, cove, etc.
A feeling of importance is excited in a boy when he sees his hands
shaping materials into objects of pleasing form. Wood turning properly
taught awakens the aesthetic sense and creates a desire for the
beautiful. The boy or man who has learned to make graceful curves and
clean-cut fillets and beads will never be satisfied with clumsy effects
which are characteristic in cheap commercial work, made only to sell.
Success in turning depends on the following:
1. Care of lathe, tools, selection of materials.
2. Study of the scientific elements of--
a. Revolving bodies.
b. Points of tangency.
c. Study of results by reasoning and observing.
3. Development of technique and exactness.
4. Correlation of mental and motor activities.
CHAPTER II
THE LATHE
The sizes of turning lathes are given as 10", 12", etc. These figures
denote the diameter, or size, of the largest piece of work that can be
turned on them. The measurement is taken from the center point of the
live center to the bed of the lathe (usually 5" or 6") and is one-half
the diameter of the entire circle. The length of a lathe is determined
by the length of a piece of work that can be turned. This measurement is
taken from the points of the live and dead centers when the tail stock
is drawn back the full extent of the lathe bed. Fig. 1 shows a turning
lathe with sixteen principal parts named. The student should learn the
names of these parts and familiarize himself with the particular
function of each.
CARE OF THE LATHE
The lathe should be oiled every day before starting. At the end of the
period the lathe should be brushed clean of all chips and shavings,
after which it should be rubbed off with a piece of waste or cloth to
remove all surplus oil. All tools should be wiped clean and put in their
proper places. If a student finds that his lathe is not running as it
should, he should first call the attention of the instructor to that
fact before attempting to adjust it; and then only such adjustments
should be made as the instructor directs.
SPEED OF THE LATHE
The speed of the lathe should range from 2400 to 3000 revolutions per
minute when the belt is on the smallest step of the cone pulley. At this
speed stock up to 3" in diameter can be turned with safety. Stock from
3" to 6" in diameter should be turned on the second or third step, and
all stock over 6" on the last step. The speed at which a lathe should
run depends entirely upon the nature of the work to be done and the kind
of material used. Pieces that cannot be centered accurately and all
glued-up work with rough corners should be run slowly until all corners
are taken off and the stock runs true. At high speed the centrificial
force on such pieces is very great, causing the lathe to vibrate, and
there is a possibility of the piece being thrown from the lathe thus
endangering the worker as well as those around him. After the stock is
running true the speed may be increased.
[Illustration: Fig. 1. - Wood Turning Lathe]
TO FIGURE THE DIAMETER OF PULLEYS
Suppose a motor runs 1500 R.P.M. and is fitted with a 4" pulley. Suppose
also, a main shaft should run 300 R.P.M.
Then, 1500 : 300 :: x : 4;
Or, 300x = 6000,
x = 20, or the diameter of the large pulley on the main shaft.
Suppose again that a line shaft runs 300 R.P.M., and a counter shaft 600
R.P.M. The counter shaft has a pulley 4" in diameter. The pulley on the
line shaft must then have a diameter of 8".
300 : 600 :: 4 : x;
Or, 300x = 2400,
x = 8"
Suppose the cone pulley on the counter shaft runs 600 R.P.M.; a lathe
spindle runs 2200 R.P.M., when connected with the small cone pulley
which has a diameter of 3". The large cone pulley has then a diameter of
11".
600 : 2200 :: 3 : x
Or, 600x = 6600;
x = 11"
RULES FOR FINDING THE SPEEDS AND SIZES OF PULLEYS
1. To find the diameter of the driving pulley:
Multiply the diameter of the driven by the number of revolutions it
should make and divide the product by the number of revolutions of the
driver. (20 x 300 = 6000; 6000 / 1500 = 4"--diameter of motor pulley.)
2. To find the diameter of the driven pulley:
Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of revolutions and
divide the product by the number of revolutions of the driven. (4 x 1500
= 6000; 6000 / 300 = 20"--diameter of the driven pulley.)
3. To find the number of revolutions of the driven pulley:
Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of revolutions and
divide by the diameter of the driven. (4 x 1500 = 6000; 6000 / 20 =
300--revolutions of driven pulley.)
POINTS ON SETTING UP LATHE AND SHAFTING
The counter shaft should be about 7' above the lathe. A distance of 6'
from the center of the shaft to the center of the spindle is sufficient.
In setting a lathe or hanging a counter shaft it is necessary that both
be level. The counter shaft must be parallel to the line shaft. When the
counter shaft is in position a plumb bob should be hung from the counter
shaft cone to the spindle cone; the lathe should be adjusted so that the
belt will track between the two cone pulleys. The axis of the lathe must
be parallel to that of the counter shaft. The lathe, however, need not
be directly beneath the counter shaft as the belt will run on an angle
as well as perpendicular.
CHAPTER III
WOOD TURNING TOOLS
A wood turning kit should consist of one each of the following tools.
Fig. 2 shows the general shape of these tools.
1-1/4" Gouge
3/4" Gouge
1/2" Gouge
1/4" Gouge
1-1/4" Skew
3/4" Skew
1/2" Skew
1/4" Skew
1/8" Parting Tool
1/2" Round Nose
1/4" Round Nose
1/2" Square Nose
1/4" Square Nose
1/2" Spear Point
1/2" Right Skew
1/2" Left Skew
Slip Stone with round edges
6" Outside Calipers
6" Inside Calipers
8" Dividers
12" Rule
1/2 pt. Oil Can
Bench Brush
GRINDING AND WHETTING TURNING TOOLS
Skew Chisel
The skew chisel is sharpened equally on both sides On this tool the
cutting edge should form an angle of about 20 deg. with one of the edges.
The skew is used in cutting both to the right and to the left, and
therefore, must be beveled on both sides. The length of the bevel should
equal about twice the thickness of the chisel at the point where it is
sharpened. In grinding the bevel, the chisel must be held so that the
cutting edge will be parallel to the axis of the emery wheel. The wheel
should be about 6" in diameter as this will leave the bevel slightly
hollow ground. Cool the chisel in water occasionally when using a dry
emery. Otherwise the wheel will burn the chisel, taking out the temper;
the metal will be soft and the edge will not stand up. Care should be
exercised that the same bevel is kept so that it will be uniformly
hollow ground. The rough edge left by the emery wheel should be whetted
off with a slip stone by holding the chisel on the flat side of the
stone so that the toe and heel of the bevel are equally in contact with
it. Rub first on one side and then on the other. The wire edge is thus
worn off quickly as there is no metal to be worn away in the middle of
the bevels. The chisel is sharp when the edge, which may be tested by
drawing it over the thumb nail, is smooth and will take hold evenly
along its entire length. If any wire edge remains it should be whetted
again.
[Illustration: Fig. 2. - Lathe Tools]
Gouge
The gouge used in wood turning is beveled on the outside and is ground
so that the nose is approximately semi-circular in shape. The tool is a
combination of the round nose chisel and the ordinary gouge. The bevel
should extend well around to the ends so that the cutting edge extends
to each side. This is necessary to avoid the abrupt corners which would
be present if the nose were left straight across as in the ordinary
wood-working gouge. In making shearing cuts the round nose permits the
tool to be rolled to the side to avoid scraping the work. The length of
the bevel should be about twice the thickness of the blade at the point
where the sharpening begins.
The sharpening of a gouge for turning is rather difficult for the
average student. The ordinary gouge which has a square nose may be
beveled by merely turning it half way around and back again. In working
out the round nose of a gouge for wood turning, it is necessary that the
handle be swung from one side to the other while, at the same time, the
chisel is revolved to cut the bevel evenly. It is sometimes necessary to
allow some pupils to use the side of the emery wheel in sharpening the
gouge. This kind of grinding, however, does not leave the tool hollow
ground as when the face of the wheel is used.
To complete the sharpening the rough edge is worked smooth on a slip
stone, the cross section of which is wedge-shaped and the edges of which
are rounded. The toe and heel of the beveled side of the gouge are
brought into contact with the flat side of the stone. As the sharpening
proceeds the wire edge is worked to the inside of the gouge. The rounded
edge of the stone is then placed inside the gouge and is worked back and
forth until the rough edge disappears. Great care must be taken not to
bevel the inside of the gouge when whetting with the round edges of the
stone, as the result will be the same as with an ordinary chisel or
plane bit.
Parting Tool
The parting tool is sharpened on both sides. This tool differs from the
ordinary chisel in that it is between 5/8" and 3/4" thick and only about
1/8" wide at the widest point, which is in the center of its entire
length. The bevels must meet exactly at the center, or the widest
point, and should make an angle of about 50 deg. with each other. If the
bevels do not meet at the widest point the tool will not clear, and the
sides will rub against the revolving stock; the tool will be burned and
will thus lose its temper. The bevel should be hollow ground slightly as
then comparatively little metal need be removed when whetting.
Scraping Tools
The round nose, square nose, spear point, right skew and left skew are
scraping tools, used chiefly in pattern work and sometimes in face-plate
work. They are sharpened on one side only, and the bevel is about twice
the thickness of the chisel at the point where sharpened. These tools
should be slightly hollow ground to facilitate the whetting. Scraping
tools become dull quite easily as their edges are in contact with the
wood almost at right angles. After sharpening, the edges of these tools
may be turned with a burnisher or the broad side of a skew chisel in the
same manner that the edge of a cabinet scraper is turned though not
nearly to so great a degree. This will help to keep the tool sharp for,
as the edge wears off, the tool sharpens itself to a certain extent. The
chisel is of harder material than a cabinet scraper so that it will not
stand a great amount of turning over on the edge. Small pieces will be
broken out, unless a flat surface is rubbed against the edge at a more
acute angle than was used in the whetting. If a narrow burnisher is
used, pieces are more likely to be broken out from the sharp edge and
thus make the tool useless.
CHAPTER IV
SPINDLE TURNING
Spindle turning is the term applied to all work done on a lathe in which
the stock to be worked upon is held firmly between the live and dead
centers. There are two methods in common use in wood turning: first, the
scraping or pattern-makers' method; and second, the cutting method. Each
has its advantages and disadvantages, but it is necessary that both be
learned in order to develop a well rounded turner. Care should be
exercised, however, that each method be used in its proper place. The
first is slower, harder on the cutting edge of tools, and less skill is
required to obtain accurate work; the second is faster, easier on the
cutting edge of tools, and the accuracy of results obtained depends upon
the skill acquired. As skill is the one thing most sought for in high
school work, the use of the cutting method is advocated entirely for all
spindle turning and, with but few exceptions, for face-plate and chuck
turning.
TO CENTER STOCK
If the wood to be turned is square or rectangular in shape the best way
to locate the center is to draw diagonals across the end of the stock.
The point of intersection locates the center.
CLAMPING STOCK IN THE LATHE
Take the live center from the spindle and with a wooden mallet drive the
spur deep into the wood. Never drive the wood onto the live center while
in the spindle because serious injury may be done the machine by such
practice. When extremely hard wood is being used, it is a good practice
to make saw cuts along the diagonal lines and bore a hole at the
intersection, thus allowing the spur to enter the wood more freely. Oil
the other end of the wood while holding it in a vertical position, and
give the oil a chance to penetrate into the wood. Then replace the live
center by taking the stock and center and forcing it into the spindle by
a sudden push of the hand. The tail stock is then moved about 1/2" to 1"
from the end of the piece to be turned, having the tail spindle well
back in the tail stock. The tail stock is then clamped to the lathe bed.
Turn the tail stock hand wheel until the wood is held firmly. Work the
cone pulley by hand at the same time, so that the cup or dead center
will be forced deeply into the wood, so deeply that the live center will
not continue to turn. Now turn the dead spindle back until the live
spindle begins to turn freely and clamp the dead spindle fast.
[Illustration: Fig. 3]
ADJUSTING THE TOOL REST