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A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam' by Annie Allnut Brassey

A >> Annie Allnut Brassey >> A Voyage in the \'Sunbeam\'




We sailed along close to the shore, and by two o'clock were near the
entrance to the Bay of Hilo. In answer to our signal for a pilot a
boat came off with a man who said he knew the entrance to the harbour,
but informed us that the proper pilot had gone to Honolulu on a
pleasure trip.

It was a clear afternoon. The mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa,
could be plainly seen from top to bottom, their giant crests rising
nearly 14,000 feet above our heads, their tree and fern clad slopes
seamed with deep gulches or ravines, down each of which a fertilising
river ran into the sea. Inside the reef, the white coral shore, on
which the waves seemed too lazy to break, is fringed with a belt of
cocoa-nut palms, amongst which, as well as on the hill-sides, the
little white houses are prettily dotted. All are surrounded by
gardens, so full of flowers that the bright patches of colour were
plainly visible even from the deck of the yacht. The harbour is large,
and is exposed only to one bad wind, which is most prevalent during
the winter months. Still, with good ground-tackle, there is not much
to be feared, and there is one particular spot, sheltered by the
Blonde reef, which is almost always safe. Here, accordingly, we have
taken up our station, though it is rather far from the town. Sometimes
it is impossible to land at Hilo itself for days together, but there
is fortunately a little creek behind Cocoa-nut Island which is always
accessible.

This afternoon the weather was all that could be desired, and at three
o'clock we landed and went straight to Mr. Conway's store to make
arrangements for going to the volcano of Kilauea to-morrow. Mr. Conway
sent a man off at once on horseback to warn the people at the
'Half-way House' and at 'Volcano House' to make preparations to
receive our party--a necessary precaution, as visitors to the island
are not numerous, and can only arrive by the monthly steamer from
Honolulu.

Having arranged this matter, we went for a stroll, among neat houses
and pretty gardens, to the suspension-bridge over the river, followed
by a crowd of girls, all decorated with wreaths and garlands, and
wearing almost the same dress that we had seen at Tahiti--a coloured
long-sleeved loose gown reaching to the feet. The natives here appear
to affect duller colours than those we have lately been accustomed to,
lilac, drab, brown, and other dark prints being the favourite tints.
Whenever I stopped to look at a view, one of the girls would come
behind me and throw a _lei_ of flowers over my head, fasten it round
my neck, and then run away laughing, to a distance, to judge of
effect. The consequence was that, before the end of our walk, I had
about a dozen wreaths, of various colours and lengths, hanging round
me, till I felt almost as if I had a fur tippet on, they made me so
hot; and yet I did not like to take them off for fear of hurting the
poor girls' feelings.

We walked along the river bank, and crossed to the other side just
below the rapids, jumping over the narrow channels through which the
water hurried and rushed. Some of our attendant girls carried Muriel
and the dogs, and, springing barefooted from rock to rock, led us
across the stream and up the precipitous banks on the other side.
There is a sort of hotel here, kept by a Chinaman, where everything is
scrupulously clean, and the food good though plain. It is rather more
like a lodging-house than an hotel, however. You hire your rooms, and
are expected to make special arrangements for board. Before we got
back to the yacht it had become dark, the moon had risen, and we could
see the reflection in the sky of the fires in the crater of Kilauea. I
do hope the volcano will be active to-morrow. It is never two days in
the same condition, and visitors have frequently remained in the
neighbourhood of the crater for a week without seeing an eruption.

The starlit sky, the bright young moon, and the red cloud from
Kilauea, floating far above our heads, made up a most beautiful scene
from the deck of the 'Sunbeam.'

_Saturday, December 23rd_.--The boatman who brought us off last night
had told us that Saturday was market-day at Hilo, and that at five
o'clock the natives would come in from the surrounding country in
crowds to buy their Sunday and Christmas Day provisions, and to bring
their own produce for sale. We accordingly gave orders that the boat
should come for us at a quarter to five, shortly before which we got
up and went on deck. We waited patiently in the dark until half-past
five, when, no boat appearing from the shore, the dingy was manned and
we landed. The lights in the town were all out, the day had hardly
dawned, and there were no signs of life to be seen. At last we met two
men, who told us we should find the market near the river, and offered
to show us the way; but when we arrived at the spot they had indicated
we found only a large butcher's shop, and were informed that the
regular market for fish, fruit, and other things was held at five
o'clock _in the afternoon_ instead of in the morning. We had thus had
all our trouble for nothing, and the non-appearance of the boat was
fully explained.

Presently we met a friend who took us to his home. It was a pretty
walk, by the side of the river and through numerous gardens, fresh
with the morning dew. He gave us the latest news from the United
States, and presented us with oranges and flowers, with which we
returned to the yacht. We were on board again by seven, and, having
packed up our things and sent them ashore, had an early breakfast, and
landed, in readiness for our excursion to Kilauea. The baggage animals
ought already to have started, but we found they had been kept back,
in case we should happen to forget anything. Quite a crowd assembled
to see us off, and a good deal of gossip had to be got through, so
that it was half-past nine before we were all mounted and fairly off.

The first part of our way lay along the flat ground, gay with bright
scarlet Guernsey lilies, and shaded by cocoa-nut trees, between the
town and the sea. Then we struck off to the right, and soon left the
town behind us, emerging into the open country. At a distance from the
sea, Hilo looks as green as the Emerald Isle itself; but on a closer
inspection the grass turns out to be coarse and dry, and many of the
trees look scrubby and half dead. Except in the 'gulches' and the deep
holes between the hills, the island is covered with lava, in many
places of so recent a deposit that it has not yet had time to
decompose, and there is consequently only a thin layer of soil on its
surface. This soil being, however, very rich, vegetation flourishes
luxuriantly for a time; but as soon as the roots have penetrated a
certain depth, and have come into contact with the lava, the trees
wither up and perish, like the seed that fell on stony ground.

The _ohia_ trees form a handsome feature in the landscape, with their
thick tall stems, glossy foliage, and light crimson flowers. The fruit
is a small pink waxy-looking apple, slightly acid, pleasant to the
taste when you are thirsty. The candle-nut trees attain to a large
size, and their light green foliage and white flowers have a very
graceful appearance. Most of the foliage, however, is spoiled by a
deposit of black dust, not unlike what one sees on the leaves in a
London garden. I do not know whether this is caused by the fumes of
the not far-distant volcano, or whether it is some kind of mould or
fungus.

After riding about ten miles in the blazing sun we reached a forest,
where the vegetation was quite tropical, though not so varied in its
beauties as that of Brazil, or of the still more lovely South Sea
Islands. There were ferns of various descriptions in the forest, and
many fine trees, entwined, supported, or suffocated by numerous
climbing plants, amongst which were blue and lilac convolvulus, and
magnificent passion-flowers. The protection from the sun afforded by
this dense mass of foliage was extremely grateful; but the air of the
forest was close and stifling, and at the end of five miles we were
glad to emerge once more into the open. The rest of the way lay over
the hard lava, through a sort of desert of scrubby vegetation,
occasionally relieved by clumps of trees in hollows. More than once we
had a fine view of the sea, stretching away into the far distance,
though it was sometimes mistaken for the bright blue sky, until the
surf could be seen breaking upon the black rocks, amid the encircling
groves of cocoa-nut trees.

The sun shone fiercely at intervals, and the rain came down several
times in torrents. The pace was slow, the road was dull and dreary,
and many were the inquiries made for the 'Half-way House,' long before
we reached it. We had still two miles farther to go, in the course of
which we were drenched by a heavy shower. At last we came to a native
house, crowded with people, where they were making _tappa_ or
_kapa_--the cloth made from the bark of the paper-mulberry. Here we
stopped for a few minutes until our guide hurried us on, pointing out
the church and the 'Half-way House' just ahead.

We were indeed glad to dismount after our weary ride, and rest in the
comfortable rocking-chairs under the verandah. It is a small white
wooden building, overhung with orange-trees, with a pond full of ducks
and geese outside it, and a few scattered outbuildings, including a
cooking hut, close by. A good-looking man was busy broiling
beef-steaks, stewing chickens, and boiling _taro_, and we had soon a
plentiful repast set before us, with the very weakest of weak tea as a
beverage. The woman of the house, which contained some finely worked
mats and clean-looking beds, showed us some _tappa cloth_, together
with the mallets and other instruments used in its manufacture, and a
beautiful orange-coloured _lei_, or feather necklace, which she had
made herself. The cloth and mallets were for sale, but no inducement
would persuade her to part with the necklace. It was the first she had
ever made, and I was afterwards told that the natives are
superstitiously careful to preserve the first specimen of their
handiwork, of whatever kind it may be.

A woman dressed in a pink _holoku_ and a light green apron had
followed us hither from the cottages we had first stopped at, and I
noticed at the time that, though she was chatting and laughing with a
female companion, she did not seem very well. Whilst we were at lunch
a sudden increase to her family took place, and before we were ready
to start I paid her and her infant a visit. She was then sitting up,
apparently as well as ever, and seemed to look upon the recent event
as a very light matter.

Directly we had finished our meal--about three o'clock--the guide came
and tried to persuade us that, as the baggage-mules had not yet
arrived, it would be too late for us to go on to-day, and that we had
better spend the night where we were, and start early in the morning.
We did not, however, approve of this arrangement, so the horses were
saddled, and, leaving word that the baggage-mules were to follow on as
soon as possible, we mounted, and set off for the 'Volcano House.' We
had not gone far before we were again overtaken by a shower, which
once more drenched us to the skin.

The scene was certainly one of extreme beauty. The moon was hidden by
a cloud, and the prospect lighted only by the red glare of the
volcano, which hovered before and above us like the Israelites' pillar
of fire, giving us hopes of a splendid spectacle when we should at
last reach the long-wished-for crater. Presently the moon shone forth
again, and gleamed and glistened on the rain-drops and silver-grasses
till they looked like fireflies and glowworms. At last, becoming
impatient, we proceeded slowly on our way, until we met a man on
horseback, who hailed us in a cheery voice with an unmistakable
American accent. It was the landlord of the 'Volcano House,' Mr. Kane,
who, fearing from the delay that we had met with some mishap, had
started to look for us. He explained that he thought it was only his
duty to look after and help ladies visiting the volcano, and added
that he had intended going down as far as the 'Half-way House' in
search of us. It was a great relief to know that we were in the right
track, and I quite enjoyed the gallop through the dark forest, though
there was barely sufficient light to enable me to discern the horse
immediately in front of me. When we emerged from the wood, we found
ourselves at the very edge of the old crater, the bed of which, three
or four hundred feet beneath us, was surrounded by steep and in many
places overhanging sides. It looked like an enormous cauldron, four or
five miles in width, full of a mass of cooled pitch. In the centre was
the still glowing stream of dark red lava, flowing slowly towards us,
and in every direction were red-hot patches, and flames and smoke
issuing from the ground. A bit of the 'black country' at night, with
all the coal-heaps on fire, would give you some idea of the scene. Yet
the first sensation is rather one of disappointment, as one expects
greater activity on the part of the volcano; but the new crater was
still to be seen, containing the lake of fire, with steep walls rising
up in the midst of the sea of lava.

Twenty minutes' hard riding brought us to the door of the 'Volcano
House,' from which issued the comforting light of a large wood fire,
reaching halfway up the chimney. Native garments replaced Mabelle's
and my dripping habits, and we sat before the fire in luxury until the
rest of the party arrived. After some delay supper was served, cooked
by our host, and accompanied by excellent Bass's beer, no wine or
spirits being procurable on the premises. Mr. Kane made many apologies
for shortcomings, explaining that his cook had run away that morning,
and that his wife was not able to do much to assist him, as her first
baby was only a week old.

Everything at this inn is most comfortable, though the style is rough
and ready. The interior is just now decorated for Christmas, with
wreaths, and evergreens, and ferns, and bunches of white plumes, not
unlike _reva-reva_, made from the pith of the silver-grass. The beds
and bedrooms are clean, but limited in number, there being only three
of the latter altogether. The rooms are separated only by partitions
of grass, seven feet high, so that there is plenty of ventilation, and
the heat of the fire permeates the whole building. But you must not
talk secrets in these dormitories or be too restless. I was amused to
find, in the morning, that I had unconsciously poked my hand through
the wall of our room during the night.

The grandeur of the view in the direction of the volcano increased as
the evening wore on. The fiery cloud above the present crater
augmented in size and depth of colour; the extinct crater glowed red
in thirty or forty different places; and clouds of white vapour
issued from every crack and crevice in the ground, adding to the
sulphurous smell with which the atmosphere was laden. Our room faced
the volcano: there were no blinds, and I drew back the curtains and
lay watching the splendid scene until I fell asleep.

_Sunday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)_.--I was up at four o'clock, to
gaze once more on the wondrous spectacle that lay before me. The
molten lava still flowed in many places, the red cloud over the fiery
lake was bright as ever, and steam was slowly ascending in every
direction, over hill and valley, till, as the sun rose, it became
difficult to distinguish clearly the sulphurous vapours from the
morning mists. We walked down to the Sulphur Banks, about a quarter of
a mile from the 'Volcano House,' and burnt our gloves and boots in our
endeavours to procure crystals, the beauty of which generally
disappeared after a very short exposure to the air. We succeeded,
however, in finding a few good specimens, and, by wrapping them at
once in paper and cotton-wool and putting them into a bottle, hope to
bring them home uninjured.

On our return we found a gentleman who had just arrived from Kau, and
who proposed to join us in our expedition to the crater, and at three
o'clock in the afternoon we set out, a party of eight, with two
guides, and three porters to carry our wraps and provisions, and to
bring back specimens. Before leaving the inn the landlord came to us
and begged us in an earnest and confidential manner to be very
careful, to do exactly what our guides told us, and especially to
follow in their footsteps exactly when returning in the dark. He
added, 'There never has been an accident happen to anybody from my
house, and I should feel real mean if one did: but there have been a
power of narrow escapes.'

First of all we descended the precipice, 300 feet in depth, forming
the wall of the old crater, but now thickly covered with vegetation.
It is so steep in many places that flights of zig-zag wooden steps
have been inserted in the face of the cliff in some places, in order
to render the descent practicable. At the bottom we stepped straight
on to the surface of cold boiled lava, which we had seen from above
last night. Even here, in every crevice where a few grains of soil had
collected, delicate little ferns might be seen struggling for life,
and thrusting out their green fronds towards the light. It was the
most extraordinary walk imaginable over that vast plain of lava,
twisted and distorted into every conceivable shape and form, according
to the temperature it had originally attained, and the rapidity with
which it had cooled, its surface, like half-molten glass, cracking and
breaking beneath our feet. Sometimes we came to a patch that looked
like the contents of a pot, suddenly petrified in the act of boiling;
sometimes the black iridescent lava had assumed the form of waves, or
more frequently of huge masses of rope, twisted and coiled together;
sometimes it was piled up like a collection of organ-pipes, or had
gathered into mounds and cones of various dimensions. As we proceeded
the lava became hotter and hotter, and from every crack arose gaseous
fumes, affecting our noses and throats in a painful manner; till at
last, when we had to pass to leeward of the molten stream flowing from
the lake, the vapours almost choked us, and it was with difficulty we
continued to advance. The lava was more glassy and transparent-looking,
as if it had been fused at a higher temperature than usual; and the
crystals of sulphur, alum, and other minerals, with which it abounded,
reflected the light in bright prismatic colours. In places it was quite
transparent, and we could see beneath it the long streaks of a stringy
kind of lava, like brown spun glass, called 'Pele's hair.'

At last we reached the foot of the present crater, and commenced the
ascent of the outer wall. Many times the thin crust gave way beneath
our guide, and he had to retire quickly from the hot, blinding,
choking fumes that immediately burst forth. But we succeeded in
reaching the top; and then what a sight presented itself to our
astonished eyes! I could neither speak nor move at first, but could
only stand and gaze at the horrible grandeur of the scene.

We were standing on the extreme edge of a precipice, overhanging a
lake of molten fire, a hundred feet below us, and nearly a mile
across. Dashing against the cliffs on the opposite side, with a noise
like the roar of a stormy ocean, waves of blood-red, fiery, liquid
lava hurled their billows upon an iron-bound headland, and then rushed
up the face of the cliffs to toss their gory spray high in the air.
The restless, heaving lake boiled and bubbled, never remaining the
same for two minutes together. Its normal colour seemed to be a dull
dark red, covered with a thin grey scum, which every moment and in
every part swelled and cracked, and emitted fountains, cascades, and
whirlpools of yellow and red fire, while sometimes one big golden
river, sometimes four or five, flowed across it. There was an island
on one side of the lake, which the fiery waves seemed to attack
unceasingly with relentless fury, as if bent on hurling it from its
base. On the other side was a large cavern, into which the burning
mass rushed with a loud roar, breaking down in its impetuous headlong
career the gigantic stalactites that overhung the mouth of the cave,
and flinging up the liquid material for the formation of fresh ones.

It was all terribly grand, magnificently sublime; but no words could
adequately describe such a scene. The precipice on which we were
standing overhung the crater so much that it was impossible to see
what was going on immediately beneath; but from the columns of smoke
and vapour that arose, the flames and sparks that constantly drove us
back from the edge, it was easy to imagine that there must have been
two or three grand fiery fountains below. As the sun set, and darkness
enveloped the scene, it became more awful than ever. We retired a
little way from the brink, to breathe some fresh air, and to try and
eat the food we had brought with us; but this was an impossibility.
Every instant a fresh explosion or glare made us jump up to survey the
stupendous scene. The violent struggles of the lava to escape from its
fiery bed, and the loud and awful noises by which they were at times
accompanied, suggested the idea that some imprisoned monsters were
trying to release themselves from their bondage, with shrieks and
groans, and cries of agony and despair, at the futility of their
efforts.

Sometimes there were at least seven spots on the borders of the lake
where the molten lava dashed up furiously against the rocks--seven
fire-fountains playing simultaneously. With the increasing darkness
the colours emitted by the glowing mass became more and more
wonderful, varying from the deepest jet black to the palest grey, from
darkest maroon, through cherry and scarlet, to the most delicate pink,
violet, and blue; from the richest brown, through orange and yellow,
to the lightest straw-colour. And there was yet another shade, only
describable by the term 'molten-lava colour.' Even the smokes and
vapours were rendered beautiful by their borrowed lights and tints,
and the black peaks, pinnacles, and crags, which surrounded the
amphitheatre, formed a splendid and appropriate background. Sometimes
great pieces broke off and tumbled with a crash into the burning lake,
only to be remelted and thrown up anew. I had for some time been
feeling very hot and uncomfortable, and on looking round the cause was
at once apparent. Not two inches beneath the surface, the grey lava on
which we were standing and sitting was red-hot. A stick thrust through
it caught fire, a piece of paper was immediately destroyed, and the
gentlemen found the heat from the crevices so great that they could
not approach near enough to light their pipes.

One more long last look, and then we turned our faces away from the
scene that had enthralled us for so many hours. The whole of the lava
we had crossed, in the extinct crater, was now aglow in many patches,
and in all directions flames were bursting forth, fresh lava was
flowing, and steam and smoke were issuing from the surface. It was a
toilsome journey back again, walking as we did in single file, and
obeying the strict injunctions of our head guide to follow him
closely, and to tread exactly in his footsteps. On the whole it was
easier by night than by day to distinguish the route to be taken, as
we could now see the dangers that before we could only feel; and many
were the fiery crevices we stepped over or jumped across. Once I
slipped, and my foot sank through the thin crust. Sparks issued from
the ground, and the stick on which I leant caught fire before I could
fairly recover myself.

Either from the effects of the unaccustomed exercise after our long
voyage, or from the intense excitement of the novel scene, combined
with the gaseous exhalations from the lava, my strength began to fail,
and before reaching the side of the crater I felt quite exhausted. I
struggled on at short intervals, however, collapsing several times and
fainting away twice; but at last I had fairly to give in, and to allow
myself to be ignominiously carried up the steep precipice to the
'Volcano House' on a chair, which the guides went to fetch for me.

It was half-past eleven when we once more found ourselves beneath Mr.
Kane's hospitable roof; he had expected us to return at nine o'clock,
and was beginning to feel anxious about us.

_Monday, December 25th (Christmas Day)_.--Turning in last night was
the work of a very few minutes, and this morning I awoke perfectly
refreshed and ready to appreciate anew the wonders of the prospect
that met my eyes. The pillar of fire was still distinctly visible when
I looked out from my window, though it was not so bright as when I
had last seen it; but even as I looked it began to fade, and gradually
disappeared. At the same moment a river of glowing lava issued from
the side of the bank we had climbed with so much difficulty yesterday,
and slowly but surely overflowed the ground we had walked over. I woke
Tom, and you may imagine the feelings with which we gazed upon this
startling phenomenon, which, had it occurred a few hours earlier,
might have caused the destruction of the whole party. If our
expedition had been made to-day instead of yesterday, we should
certainly have had to proceed by a different route to the crater, and
should have looked down on the lake of fire from a different spot.

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