Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery by A. G. Payne

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CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY.

BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A.

* * * * *

SUGG'S GOLD MEDAL "WESTMINSTER"
GAS KITCHENERS.

ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE.

[Illustration]

_PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, TOASTING, AND BOILING._

_WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE CAN DO--ONLY MUCH BETTER._

The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly. Send for Pamphlet on
SUGG'S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD.

LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co.,
Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies.

WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER.

* * * * *

Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each.

CASSELL'S

Book of the Household.

A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management.
_With Numerous Illustrations_.

The _Guardian_ says: "AN EXCELLENT WORK, WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HANDS OF
EVERY HOUSEKEEPER, is CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the
most varied information and the soundest of advice. The household, its
members and their family life, are considered and discussed; children and
their training, health and disease, food and clothing, furnishing,
furniture, and household mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these
various subjects are admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable
and practical manual of household management."

The _Queen_ says: "A BOOK SO HANDY AND PRACTICAL OUGHT TO BE ADOPTED BY
EVERY WELL-ORDERED FAMILY. Its plan is so comprehensive, it will include
every part of the house and its requirements, and all the members of the
family and their mutual relations, duties, and responsibilities."

The _Weekly Dispatch_ says: "We do not know of any more practical or more
valuable work on household management. It is worth its weight in gold."

The _Scotsman_ says: "The first volume has appeared of a book which
promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is A CYCLOPAEDIA OF
INFORMATION ON ALL QUESTIONS CONNECTED WITH THE MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD,
and does not enter into comparison with books that treat merely of
provisions for the table. Various hands have evidently been employed in
working up the various sections, and every subject is dealt with in a
thoroughly competent style. The book is admirably appointed in every
respect, and contains many illustrations, all of the most useful character,
and beautifully printed. EVERY ONE WHO HAS TO DO IN ANY WAY WITH THE
MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD WILL FIND THIS BOOK INVALUABLE."

The _Liverpool Mercury_ says: "CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD is another
book, of a class of which many have been issued, and good books too; but
this one, by the thoroughness and comprehensiveness of its arrangement,
will go far to render the housewife who possesses it independent of all the
rest.... Many a housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be
taken up at any leisure hour."

The _Glasgow Herald_ says: "The work promises to be the most complete thing
of the kind in existence, and even the first volume by itself is a perfect
household encyclopaedia."

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_.

* * * * *

SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE.

ASK YOUR GROCER FOR GRIDLEY & CO'S ISINGLASSINE.

"PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND WHOLESOME."

_Arthur Hill Hassall_
_E. Godwin Clayton_

A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY.

NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL GROCERS

_THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED._

HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS.

* * * * *

The London Vegetarian Society,

THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C.

President--A.F. HILLS, Esq.
Treasurer--ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A.
Secretary--MAY YATES.

THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of advocating
the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food,
and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, grains, nuts, and
other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to disseminate
information as to the meaning and principles of Vegetarianism by lectures,
pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by these means, and through the
example and efforts of its Members, to extend the adoption of a principle
tending essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to
the increase of human happiness generally.

Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates
agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves to
its practice.

SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES:

ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.--Minimum Subscription.

FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four
Debates, and Four Conversaziones at half-price, and be entitled to receive,
free by post, copies of all new literature published by the Society under
6d.

TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four
Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, copies of
all new literature published by the Society under 1s.

ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four Debates
and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, all new literature
published by the Society under 2s., and copies of the _Vegetarian_, _The
Hygienic Review_, and the _Vegetarian Messenger_.

* * * * *

POOR MAN'S FRIEND AND PILLS.

DR. ROBERTS' OINTMENT CALLED POOR MAN'S FRIEND Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES
of every description

DR. ROBERTS' ALTERATIVE PILLS For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN.

_Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors_, BRIDPORT, DORSET.

* * * * *

[Illustration]

THE "RAPID" COOKERY STEAMER.

TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN.

_From 1s. each._

OF ALL IRONMONGERS.

* * * * *

_NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION._

A YEAR'S COOKERY.

Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the
Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.

To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a sale
of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been added on
Food for Invalids.

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_.

* * * * *

_Price_ 2s. 6d.

A HANDBOOK FOR THE NURSING OF SICK CHILDREN. By CATHERINE J. WOOD.

"Miss Wood's book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the
heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like fashion."--_Health_.

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_.

* * * * *

_THE LARGEST, CHEAPEST, AND BEST COOKERY BOOK._

1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d.; roxburgh, 10s. 6d.

CASSELL'S
Dictionary of Cookery.

ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT.

CONTAINING ABOUT 9,000 RECIPES.

"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and
comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents
would demand pages rather than paragraphs."--_The Times_.

"One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of
cookery."--_Saturday Review_.

"It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be--that is,
the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this
country; an encyclopaedia, in fact, of the culinary art in all its
branches. It is a dictionary which should be in every household, and
studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the
world."--_Christian World_.

"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and valuable
information as to the best method of preparing food in an endless variety
of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp principles on which
food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It supplies the reason why
one method is right and another wrong. An estimate of the cost of each
recipe is given, which is valuable information. The recipes themselves are
given in terms intelligible to the meanest capacity."--_Athenaeum_.

"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is
preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table
Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as
those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a
household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages not
only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit,
vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the
directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates
represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully
arranged, with several less inviting pictures of 'bad and good joints of
meat' contrasted with each other side by side."--_Morning Post_.

"The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the
arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance of
its illustrations."--_York Herald_.

"Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest dinner,
but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the simplest and
cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more shilling or
sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater cost."--_Western
Morning News_.

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_.

* * * * *

CASSELL'S
VEGETARIAN COOKERY.

* * * * *

CROSSE & BLACKWELL'S PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES,

_PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES_,

Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles,

PURE LUCCA OIL,

Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies,

_ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS_.

CROSSE & BLACKWELL,

Purveyors to the Queen,

SOHO SQUARE, LONDON.

* * * * *

CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY.

A MANUAL OF _CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET_.

BY

A.G. PAYNE, B.A.

AUTHOR OF "CHOICE DISHES," ETC.

[Illustration]

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED:

_LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE_.

1891.

* * * * *

For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN'S AND INVALIDS' DIET, _And
all the Uses of Arrowroot_,

BROWN & POLSON'S CORN FLOUR

HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR _UNIFORMLY SUPERIOR
QUALITY_.

NOTE.--Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & POLSON'S
CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, are being
offered.

* * * * *

80th THOUSAND, _price_ 1s.; _post free_, 1s. 3d.

CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY.

This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in limp
cloth.

"This is the LARGEST AND MOST COMPREHENSIVE WORK on the subject of cookery
ever yet published at the price."--_Christian Age_.

"Housekeepers WILL SAVE MANY SHILLINGS if they follow the practical
suggestions and excellent advice given."--_Bazaar_.

"CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest manual for the
kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages of recipes, the book is
serviceably bound, and should prove a treasure to any young wife."--_Weekly
Times and Echo_.

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_.

* * * * *

PREFACE.

The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian principles, is by
no means addressed to vegetarians only. On the contrary, we hope that the
following pages of recipes will be read by that enormous class throughout
the country who during the last few years have been gradually changing
their mode of living by eating far _less_ meat, and taking vegetables and
farinaceous food as a substitute.

Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from choice, there are tens
of thousands who are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Again, there is
another large class who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet
on the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the pains
attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia.

The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, increasing we fear,
whose whole life is one continual struggle not merely to live, but to live
decently.

It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a true one, that
only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian course of diet know what
real _economy_ means. Should the present work be the means of enabling
even one family to become not only better in health but richer in pocket,
it will not have been written in vain.

A.G. PAYNE.

* * * * *

SOLIDIFIED JELLY.

[Illustration]

By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented in the
Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. Wales, 1889.
Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved.

CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES,

The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article of food,
begs to warn the Public that the great success and enormous demand the
CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great Britain has brought many
imitators on the Market. A few Stores and Grocers are offering same to the
Public, no doubt for the purpose of wishing to appear cheaper, or for
making extra profit. The favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been
obtained solely upon the merits of the article, and it is held to be the
greatest invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes
this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully endorsed by
the unsolicited testimony of high-class British journals.

The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make 1/2-pints,
pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some of the flavours:
Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves' Feet, Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and
Madeira. It should not be confounded with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which
is a totally different article, _this being a pure Calves' Feet jelly_,
superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly purposes--this latter,
as will easily be seen, being now a thing of the past. On each box is
printed a public analyst's report, also full directions for use.

_The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet
jellies_:--

1. It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and superior
in quality.

2. It never gets mildewed or corky.

3. It never fails to set or jellify.

4. Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be melted by
the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter being required.

5. It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep good
longer than other jellies.

6. The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes.

For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be
found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified
state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind
it will be found invaluable.

_BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the_ WALTER ROBERTSON
CHELSEA TABLE JELLY.

ARTICLES OF MERIT ARE OFTEN PIRATED BY UNPRINCIPLED TRADERS.

To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS.

_CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS_.

Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888.

_I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the above
samples_:

I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be a
mixture of Calves' Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly nutritious and
wholesome.

It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much firmer
and keeps well.

It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured from
pure materials.

It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality.

_(Signed)_ R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S.

Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. _Public Analyst_.

Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (_unsolicited_).

59, Windsor Road, Southport. _August 25th_, 1891.

GENTLEMEN,--I may inform you that I have tried other makers of jellies, but
have found none to equal yours in excellence of quality. I have mentioned
this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead and to my friends. I am also
deeply indebted to you from the fact that a little niece of mine was fed
almost exclusively on your Calves' Feet Jelly for a period of three months,
and who, when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly
to your jellies.

Yours respectfully,

W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON.

_This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London._

INVENTORS AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS (WHOLESALE ONLY):

WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND

* * * * *

CONTENTS.

PAGE.

CHAP. I.--Soups 17

II.--SAUCES 44
III.--RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL 60
IV.--EGGS AND OMELETS 78
V.--SALADS AND SANDWICHES 96
VI.--SAVOURY DISHES 108
VII.--VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL 122
VIII.--VEGETABLES, FRESH 137
IX.--PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS 152
X.--JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS 158
XI.--CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES 165
XII.--STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES 171
XIII.--CAKES AND BREAD 177
XIV.--PIES AND PUDDINGS 182

* * * * *

E.F. LANGDALE'S
PRIZE MEDAL.

Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities

FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c.

_Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their bloom
and freshness._

Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition,
London, 1851 and 1862.

(Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.)

_"E.F. LANGDALE'S" should always be insisted upon.
They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest._

Essence Lemon.
Strong Essence Vanilla.
Purified Essence Almonds
Essence Noyau.
" Raspberries.
Essence Ginger.
" Orange.
" Ratafia.
" Celery.
" Strawberries.

* * * * *

E.F. LANGDALE'S

Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and. Custard Powders

MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE.

_In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere._

ALMOND.
LEMON.
VANILLA.
RASPBERRY.
PINE APPLE.
RATAFIA.
STRAWBERRY.
NECTARINE.
CHOCOLATE, &c.

* * * * *

E.F. LANGDALE'S
Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c.

Garden Mint.
Savoury.
Parsley.
Sage.
Lemon Thyme.
Basil.
Mixed Sweet Herbs.
" Soup "
Tarragon.

_Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture._

E.F. LANGDALE'S REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE LEMON JUICE.

Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and Sauces.

* * * * *

Sole Agent for

J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence,

FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (_See pages 20, 22._) Which should always be
bought with their Name. As used by all _Chefs_.

J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach Extract. _Perfectly
Harmless_.

J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting Ices, Pies, &c.

* * * * *

E. F. LANGDALE'S "Essence Distillery,"

72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770.

Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any
leading Grocer. We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post
card.

* * * * *

INTRODUCTION.

We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the present work
is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles generally adopted by
vegetarians; and as, until quite recently, there seemed to be in the minds
of many some doubt as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the
following explanation from the head of the report of the London Vegetarian
Society:--"The aims of the London Vegetarian Society are to advocate the
total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and
to promote a more extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other
products of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending
essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the
increase of happiness generally."

We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, but we
consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years back many persons
were under the impression that by vegetarianism was meant simply an
abstention from flesh-meat, but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is
not the case, according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of
the day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians would not
be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears that many use these,
though there are a considerable number of persons who abstain. There is no
doubt that the vegetable kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains
every requisite for the support of the human body. In speaking on this
subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:--"The vegetable kingdom comprehends
the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons
who style themselves vegetarians often consume milk, eggs, butter, and
lard, which are choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other
persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and such alone have
any right to the title of vegetarians."

In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the benefit of
parties who take either view. In questions of this kind there will always
be found conflicting views. We have no wish or desire to give opinions,
but consider it will be more advisable, and probably render the book far
more useful, if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts.

The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the world itself,
and probably from time immemorial there have been sects which have
practised vegetarianism, either as a religious duty, or under the belief
that they would render the body more capable of performing religious
duties. In the year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I.,
there was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with the
Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, and the society
has lasted to the present day. Again, there have been many sects who, not
so strict, have allowed themselves the use of fish.

Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground
of health. Many maintain that diseases like gout and dyspepsia would
disappear were vegetarian diet strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we
have physicians who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not
eating enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he had
discovered the cause, his argument being that the more work the stomach had
to do the stronger it would become, on the same principle that the arm of a
blacksmith is more powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we
are certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and rival
sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to _those who require,
from whatever cause, a light form of diet_. Perhaps the greatest benefit
vegetarians can do their cause--and there are many who think very strongly
on the subject--is to endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not
built in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this country,
during the last half-century, in regard to food, we shall see that there
have been many natural changes at work. Waves of thought take place
backwards and forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago
there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large number of
right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, and wine were good for all,
even for young children. The medical profession are very apt to run in
flocks, and follow some well-known leader. At the period to which we
refer, numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice to bring
up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as positive cruelty.
This old-fashioned idea has passed away.

One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet is economy; and
here we feel that we stand on firm ground, without danger of offending
sincere opinions, which are often wrongly called prejudices. To a great
extent, the majority of the human race are virtually vegetarians from
necessity. Nor do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily
ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families who would give
vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. Persons are too apt to think
that bodily strength depends upon the nature of the food we eat. In India
we have a feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in
China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. For many
years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, while in Ireland they
lived on potatoes. We do not wish to argue anything from these points, but
to bring them forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and
mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument tells two
ways--it does not follow that vegetarians will be necessarily strong, and
will cease to be cruel; nor does it follow that those who have been
accustomed all their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they
become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that induces many to
give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if persons would once get rid of
the idea that they risk their health by making a trial, much would be done
to advance the cause.

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